Collar Families

Here is a comprehensive list of women’s collar types, grouped in a way that makes sense for dressmaking, pattern cutting, and design decisions. This structure reflects how collars are actually classified in sewing and fashion theory. Names sometimes vary slightly between sources; I’ve included the most widely accepted terms.

In pattern drafting terms, knowing the collar family matters more than the name:

• Flat collars affect shoulder width and vertical balance

• Stand collars alter neck length and posture

• Roll collars influence formality and bust emphasis

Flat Collars

Lie flat against the garment with no stand.

Attached directly to the neckline, flat collars spread outwards over the shoulders or chest. They emphasise width rather than height, soften the neckline, and tend to read as decorative or expressive. Commonly used to frame the face, balance proportions, or introduce contrast fabric or detail.

• Peter Pan / Claudine

• Rounded Flat

• Pointed Flat

• Chelsea

• Bertha (very large, often decorative)

• Bib / Dickie

• Sailor / Middy

• Square

• Cape

• Portrait (wide, shoulders-forward)

• Pierrot

• Flat Ruff

• Dog‑ear

Stand Collars

Stand upright around the neck with no fold‑over.

Constructed as a band that encircles the neck, stand collars create vertical emphasis and a definitive silhouette. They lengthen the neck, sharpen posture, and range from minimal and architectural to formal or historical, depending on height and stiffness.

Depending on the length of the upper edge, a stand-up collar can be developed either to sit close to or stand away from the neck. A collar shape close to the neck can be achieved by increasing the front edge of the collar. This reduces the length of the upper edge. A collar shape away from the neck can be achieved by increasing the centre back of the collar. This gives the upper edge more length. Always compare the lengths of collar line and neckline.

• Mandarin / Chinese

• Band

• Officer / Nehru

• Bishop

• Grandad

• Mock Turtleneck

• Funnel

• Elizabethan / Ruff

• Choker Collar (a band added above a keyhole or high neckline)

Roll (Turn‑down) Collars

Attached to a stand and rolled over.

These collars combine vertical structure at the neck with a folded upper section that shapes the neckline. They are highly adaptable, allowing variation in point shape, spread, and roll line, and are commonly associated with shirts, dresses, and semi‑tailored garments.

• Shirt

• Convertible

• Pointed

• Spread

• Button‑down

• Wing

• Puritan

• Tuxedo

Lapel‑Based Collars

Extend from the garment front and fold back to form an open neckline.

Developed from tailored construction, lapel collars shape both the neckline and the front opening. They introduce strong directional lines, control formality, and integrate the collar into the body of the garment rather than treating it as a separate element. Common in jackets, coats, tailored dresses

• Notched Lapel

• Shawl

• Peak Lapel

• Tailed / Tuxedo Lapel

• Rever

Soft, Draped & Decorative Collars

Fall or gather from the neckline without rigid structure.

These collars rely on fabric movement rather than tailoring. They soften the garment outline, add vertical flow or embellishment, and often blur the boundary between collar and neckline through ruffles, cascades, or draped folds.

• Cowl

• Cascade

• Jabot

• Ruffle

• Frill

Tie & Bow Collars

Incorporate extensions designed to knot, tie, or drape.

Functioning as both collar and fastening, these styles introduce movement and adjustability. They draw attention to the centre front and can shift a garment’s tone from restrained to expressive without altering the underlying neckline shape.

• Bow

• Pussy Bow

• Ascot

• Tie‑neck

• Scarf

Knit & Integrated Collars

Formed as a continuous extension of the garment body.

Rather than being applied pieces, these collars flow seamlessly from the garment.

• Roll Neck / Turtleneck

• Polo

• Johnny

• Shawl Knit

• Snood

Convertible / Hybrid / Other

Adaptable collars that shift shape depending on wear or fastening.

Designed to sit in more than one position, these collars blur family boundaries. They allow the garment to read differently when open or closed, offering flexibility without changing the core construction.

• Detachable

• Faux / False

• Hooded

• Corset