Uist and Barra in the Outer Hebrides - riding with white sand views
A trip for leisure riding the Outer Hebrides, with a spot of the weaver’s craft thrown in.
Itinerary At A Glance
5-night independent itinerary for the Uist islands and Barra in the Outer Hebrides, based on driving from Yorkshire and using ferries as needed, in early June.
Highlights include circular rides on North Uist and South Uist, with stops at ancient monuments and wild beaches, a fresh seafood platter, a tour of the machair habitat and time to stroll white sands with optional bracing Atlantic dip
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Early June
This is shoulder season - before the main school holidays, so quieter roads and easier bookings. Book ferries and accommodation in advance, but less pressure than July/August.
Weather is mild (average highs 14–15°C), but highly changeable: expect sun, wind, and the odd shower.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 04:30am to 4:26am
Sunset: 10:15pm to 10:31pm
approx. 17-18 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car and ferry, own bikes for activities
Drive to Ullapool, ferry to Lochmaddy, then drive to your base.
Causeways connect North Uist, Bernerary, Benbecula, South Uist, and Eriskay; there is a short ferry connecting Eriskay to Barra, as well as to South Uist and to Oban on the mainland.
Road bikes or hybrids are ideal; all routes are on tarmac, with some optional gravel detours.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Drive north, ferry to Lochmaddy on North Uist
Collect groceries in Lochmaddy
Settle in, short evening walk on the machair
Day 2
Morning bike ride: North Uist loop (Balranald Nature Reserve & beaches)
Round trip, 38km, 180m climbing
wildflowers, birdlife, white sand beaches, stone circle “Pobull Fhinn”, RSPB reserve
Lunch picnic at from The Dunes Cabin
Afternoon: visit Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum & Arts Centre in Lochmaddy or find a local event to visit though Uist.co
Dinner: order and collect a local seafood platter from Lochmaddy Bay Prawns
Day 3
Morning swim: head to the beach for a morning dip
Bike ride: South Ford Causeway – North Uist Causeway loop from Bayhead
Round trip, 78km, 280m climbing
chapel ruins, white sand beaches, causeway
Coffee & Cake: The Oyster Catcher Bakery
Afternoon & Dinner: relax back at base
Day 4
Tour: Learn about the machair habitat on South Uist with Long Island Retreats. 2hrs, 4x4
Collect more supplies from their croft shop before you go
Visit: Mill and wool centre at Uist Wool
Day 5
Brunch: The Scandinavian Bakery at the Grimsay Community Association
Bike ride: Eriskay & South Uist loop on the Hebridean Way
Round trip, 68km, 340m climbing
pristine beaches, coastal views
Dinner: local seafood at Langass Lodge
Day 6
Relaxed morning: beach stroll or swim
Drive home
RIDING IN UIST
Riding here is a joy for confident leisure cyclists.
The terrain is rarely flat, but climbs are short and the roads are quiet. Expect a mix of open moorland, coastal views, and the occasional punchy hill. Attractions are well spaced for half-day or full-day rides, and there’s always a beach or café for a break.
The wind is a constant companion - sometimes a help, sometimes a challenge. Bring layers and be ready for four seasons in a day.
Other Countryside Itineraries
Don’t try to see all of a city in one visit
Avoid the temptation to cram everything into one city break - leave yourself room for multiple visits to extend the joy.
There’s a kind of rebellion in refusing to “do” a city in a weekend. Guidebooks and algorithms will try to convince you otherwise—offering lists that promise to compress centuries of current and historical culture into 48 hours. But cities are living systems, shaped by layered histories, and everyday life.
Every city has its own calendar—festivals, harvests, closures, migrations. The same street can feel entirely different in spring than in winter. A summer visit might reveal open-air concerts and rooftop gardens, while an autumn one might offer misty mornings and chestnut vendors.
Trying to see everything in one go, regardless of the season, flattens these rhythms. It turns a city into a checklist, rather than a conversation.
The soul of a city isn’t always in its landmarks or emblems either. It’s in the way locals queue (or don’t), the sun slicing through two streets, the graffiti, the different food stuffs on sale at different times of the year. These are things you notice when you slow down. When you return. When you walk the same street at different times of day.
Cultural awareness for me isn’t just about knowing the history, it’s also about noticing the now.
We’re not a template. We have our own distinct interests, our own story. What draws our attention might not be what’s trending—and that’s the point. A top-ten list can’t possibly reflect the full range of what we’re drawn to, so why let it set the agenda?
Choosing not to see everything is an act of independence. It’s a way of saying: I don’t need to consume this city. I want to leave space for curiosity, for return.
It’s also a way of resisting the pressure to “perform” travel—to prove you’ve been somewhere by ticking off its top ten. Instead, seek out alternative, current, left-of-centre experiences that speak to personal interests and feel novel to the senses.
So don’t try to see all of a city in one visit.
And if you return, you’ll find it has too.
Paris, Cannes and Grasse - a journey for Autumn
Travelling with a friend, we start in Paris, and end in Cannes. A 6-night cultural and olfactory journey for early autumn.
Itinerary At A Glance
6 night independent itinerary for Paris and Cannes, based on flying from Leeds, in September with a train journey between French locations
Highlights include a perfume-making course in Grasse with a visit to the flower garden of the International Perfume Museum, tour of Cannes with a screenwriter, picnic and snorkelling on the Lérins islands, and dinner at glamorous La Petite Maison overlooking the Bay of Cannes.
Based on a two friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Grasse is widely known as the world capital of perfumery, but its story begins with leather. In the 16th century, local tanners began scenting their goods to mask the strong smell of treated hides. This sparked a transformation: the hills around Grasse were soon planted with jasmine and roses, feeding the stills of the region’s earliest perfumers.
Today, Grasse remains a working centre of fragrance. Chanel still cultivates the rare Rose de Mai here for its iconic No. 5. Dior’s François Demachy established Les Fontaines Parfumées, a laboratory dedicated to scent innovation. And heritage houses like Galimard, Fragonard, and Molinard continue to produce perfumes using traditional methods.
Inspiration for my itinerary began with a hands-on perfume-making session in Grasse, guided by an expert. But rather than stay in the city, we’re basing ourselves in Cannes — a short drive away — to enjoy the chic energy of this cinematic town while dipping into the craft and culture of the region. Fate intervened with work commitments in Paris, so we tacked on a short trip to the capital and took the opportunity to try the double-decker TGV train between Paris and Cannes.
WHEN
September
We found it to be warm, pleasant, sunny.
LIGHT
Moderate daylight.
Sunrise: 06:56am - 07:27am
Sunset: 08:04pm - 07:09pm
12-13 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Flight, Train, Car hire
Fly Leeds into Paris
Train Paris to Cannes
Car hire in Cannes
Fly Nice to Leeds
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Paris
Fly in the afternoon, arrive and settle in
Dinner & Drinks: Brasserie Bellanger - a wonderful French Bistro
Day 2 - Paris
Exhibition: Azzedine Alaïa, Of Sculpted Silence
Dinner & Drinks: L’Aller Retour, Marais - traditional French bistro for steak frites
Day 3 - Travel to Cannes
Train journey: Depart Paris in the morning on a fast non-stop train to Cannes (roughly 5 hours)
Dinner: at home
Day 4 - Cannes
Lunch: took a long (slightly boozy!) lunch at Le Roof
Island afternoon: Took the water taxi to the Lérins island, Sainte-Marguerite. We walked the 7.4km coastal route, done in about 2h.
Alternative ideas: Get up early, pack a picnic and snorkelling gear, and head to Sainte Marguerite in the morning to also visit the Musée du Masque de Fer et du Fort Royal and snorkel the Underwater Ecomuseum by British sculptor, Jason deCaires Taylor. Have a picnic lunch in a well-chosen spot.
Dinner: at home
Day 5 - Cannes
City tour with a screenwriter: Booked this cinema-focused tour for a guided insight into how Cannes became such a juggernaut in the film industry.
Alternative ideas: Visit Le marché Forville (The Forville Market) to collect breakfast supplies and try a socca for sustenance.
Relax: spent the rest of the afternoon chilling out
Aperitif: Apéritif hours—l’heure de l’apéro—are usually 6pm to 8pm and a cherished part of the French day, not to mention an ideal pre-dinner ritual. The Dandy Club is my pick.
Dinner: at Aux Bons Enfants, relaxed bistro in its fourth generation of ownership - delightful. Advance booking essential (like many restaurants, note closed on a Sunday and Monday) and cash only.
Day 6 - Cannes & Grasse
Market-day Breakfast: Drove to Saint-Paul-de-Vence (50 mins driving, 28km) for a wander around
Day in Grasse for perfumery-making workshop: Drove to Grasse (40 mins driving, 22km) for a private Haute-Couture perfume creation workshop at Studio des Fragrances Galimard (2 hours, advance booking essential). FAN-FLIPPING-TASTIC. Worth every penny.
Alternative ideas: On the way back to Cannes, stop at Jardin du Musée International de la Parfumerie for a tour of the perfume gardens organised by olfactory note and current exhibition ‘Vibrations du vivant’ by glass artist, Antoine Pierini.
Dinner: Dressed up for a sunset dinner at LA PETITE MAISON, part of the legedary Palm Beach complex on La Croisette, hotspot for the glamour crowd since its construction in 1928, and with a panoramic view from Cap d'Antibes back to the Lérins Islands. Very, very glamourous.
Day 7 - Cannes, Travel home
Travel home: Fly from Nice back to Leeds
Ideas for another visit
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Maison Carla Rosa- boutique hotel in the style of a Californian villa split into luxurious apartments
Villa des Parfums - for a bigger groupes here
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IN OR NEAR CANNES
As an alternative to Sainte-Marguerite, visit Saint-Honorat, which has been inhabited by Cistercian Monks since the 5th century (410 CE). Walks, swimming and panoramic views are all on the agenda. Have a picnic lunch in a well-chosen spot. The monks have also produce liqueurs (La Lérina) olive oil and lavender. All for sale in the Lérins Abbey shop.
Book a Wine-And-Vine day with the monks on St Honarat, to learn about their wine production on the island (first Friday of each month only)
Rent a solar boat (no license necessary) for a morning or afternoon to visit the Bay of Cannes
Head out to The Estérel Massif (west of Cannes) for walking, mountain biking or trekking
Relax, swim, enjoy a picnic or do some kayaking at Lac de Saint-Cassien
IN PARIS
For a Friday in Paris, book a Guided Tour with Textile Tours of Paris. Led by a couture embroiderer around the haberdasheries of Paris, telling the fascinating story of how Paris became the capital of luxury textiles and fashion.
IN OR NEAR GRASSE
Two-part guided tour themed around one perfume flower, led by a gardener and a perfumer, at the Jardins du Musee International du Parfum (once per month between April and October, Saturdays at 10am)
Visit Grasse in May, for the annual ExpoRose Festival to celebrate the rich history of perfume and local floral agriculture. Roses garland the streets of Grasse creating a stage and inspiration for dance, theatre, music, exhibitions, workshops, demonstrations, screenings, concerts and artistic performances at every street corner.
Course at Grasse Institute of Perfumery, to take the perfume-learning even further
Once-per-week guided visits at Domain de Manon, flower-growers and cultivators whose produce is exclusively destined for use in Christian Dior perfumes. Offered during the appropriate harvest season for each flower (rose in May, jasmine and tuberose in August, September and October)
Fragonard factory, for insight into the process of making both the raw materials and the perfumes
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Aperitifs at Le Roof, rooftop bar at 5 star hotel, Five Seas
Cabaret Dinner: at Medusa Cannes - built in the 1930’s, this cabaret restaurant was revived in 2018, offering dining and performance in one experience
Other French Inspirations
A Danish summer weekend with dance, architecture and Michelin stars
3 nights in high summer. My itinerary for a cultural and culinary weekend spent in Copenhagen with a friend.
Itinerary At A Glance
3 night independent itinerary for Copenhagen, based on flying from Manchester, in August.
Highlights include an architecture bike tour, outdoor dance performance by the Danish Dance Theatre, food trucks, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and leisurely bike-riding in the city suburbs.
Based on a two friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.
Why Copenhagen in Summer?
Yep - Copenhagen is cool.
Summer suits Copenhagen. The city spills outdoors, into harbourside performances, street food markets, and long, light evenings that stretch well past dinner. It’s a season for swimming off the docks, cycling without a plan, and discovering how design features in everyday life here.
This itinerary starts with the familiar - a weekend in a European capital - but quickly veers off-script, avoiding the usual crowds and spots, and following a different line through this friendly, watery capital.
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
We felt Copenhagen exceeded expectations, with one exception - The Little Mermaid. Sure; she’s cute, and she’s emblematic of the city, but the sheer number of people crowded around her, all trying to get their instagram shot, was deeply offputting. I mean; you could hardly appreciate the sculpture for what it is.
Other than that, the food, the activities we did, the hotel we stayed in, the dane performance at the water’s edge, the morning yoga…………….literally all of it was perfect. Nothing I would change.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Perfectly.
One smart move was keeping the hire bikes after our guided tour. It gave us freedom to explore beyond the usual tourist zones. We saw parts of Copenhagen I bet tourists never see, because we could cover more ground. Copenhagen is also famously bike friendly everywhere, and its very very flat, so the riding is spectacularly easy. Suggest you get clued up on the hand signals given by riders, to indicate to each other when they plan to stop.
The outdoor dance performance was a highlight. It’s one of my favourite ways to experience culture while travelling; there is never a language barrier. This one, set against the water, was especially memorable.
Would I recommend it? Would I make another visit?
It is actually my second visit to Copenhagen, the previous one being in Winter, and the two seasons showed Copenhagen in two different lights. I feel we saw plenty on this trip that I didn’t feel we ‘left anything behind’.
If I returned to Denmark, I’d probably explore a different region, like the coastal sands or Odense. But yes, I’d absolutely recommend Copenhagen in summer.
WHEN
August
We got mild to warm, and dry. May be changeable. Long sleeves and jeans were useful. Not hot.
LIGHT
Long daylight hours.
Sunrise: 05:15am - 06:15am
Sunset: 09:15pm - 08:01pm
14-16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Flight, Bike hire
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Fly in the afternoon, arrive and settle in
Dinner & Drinks: Reffen Food Market. Took a ferry to this shipping-containers-as-street-food-market on the outskirts of town. Not only was the food good, but there was also culture, live music, and a wonderfully mixed crowd in a casual vibe.
Day 2
Yoga: started the day with a class at Copenhagen Yoga. In the summer they head outdoors to the Botanical Gardens.
Bike tour: Took a bike tour of city architecture with Be Copenhagen for an alternative view of city life and a chance to get further out than you would on just two feet.
Ride: Kept the bikes and headed out to the ‘burbs, particularly the areas of Nørrebro and Frederiksberg.
Dinner: at Amass (now closed), Michelin-starred restaurant with a strong policy around waste and sustainability. Delicioud multi-course but not twiddly-diddly food. Each chef served their course to us. The fermented potato bread was perhaps the greatest bread I have every tasted in my life, made from leftover mashed potato.
Day 3
Chill: Spent the morning relaxing
Lunch: Torvehallerne (Glass House) food hall.
Ride: Rode out to see The Little Mermaid, then Amager Strand city beach, passing through many of Copenhagen loveliest suburbs for a view of city living away from the tourist spots.
Dinner: Fiskebar (Fish Bar) casual restaurant on the site of an old meat market. Buzzy atmosphere and tasty food.
Dance performance: Watched Danish Dance Theatre in their summer performance schedule when they come outside to perform waterside. Beautiful backdrop, delightful dance. No Danish needed.
Day 4
Breakfast: in the hotel
Tivoli Gardens: Enjoyed a few hours in the city centre amusement park, well, amusing ourselves…
Travel home
Other Scandinavian Inspirations
Fredrikstad - a long weekend for early Summer
From Manchester to Norway, to visit one of the best preserved fortified towns in Europe.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night road trip independent itinerary for exploring Fredrikstad
Based on flying from Manchester into Oslo and hiring a car
Highlights include cycling to a Bronze Age stone circle, a picnic on the city ramparts, summer outdoor swimming and waterside dining
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Fredrikstad is one of Northern Europe’s best-preserved fortified towns — a compact, walkable centre with real historical character. The surrounding region, including Hvaler, offers excellent cycling: coastal stretches, forested trails, and quiet roads that promise varied and rewarding rides.
It’s also logistically easy. Just south of Oslo, Fredrikstad sits along the eastern edge of the Oslofjord, stretching from Moss to the Swedish border. With direct flights from Manchester to Oslo taking around two hours, it’s an ideal short-break destination — accessible, but far enough to feel like a proper escape.
WHEN
June
Just outside of school holiday season.
Likely warm to hot, and also changeable.
LIGHT
Long days.
Sunrise: 04:13am to 04:06am
Sunset: 22:17pm to 22:34pm
18 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Fly from Manchester to Oslo
Car and bike hire will also be essential to move between locations
ACCOMMODATION
in the very centre of Fredrikstad - in the self-catering Holberg Suite
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Arrive: fly, collect hire car, collect bikes, collect groceries, arrive at holiday rental and settle in
Day 2
Morning swim: Outdoor swimming available during summer months only at Fredrikstad Kongstenbadet
Brunch: Mormors Café or Bakfickan bakery-café
Get to know the city: Bike along the ramparts, and follow the old streets to the square. Do as the locals do and stop somewhere along the ramparts for a picnic
Day 3
Day trip: Head slightly out of the city to visit Steinringfeltet (stone rings) just outside of Fredrikstad, an ancient and site of stone circles that date back to the Bronze age. Take a ride through the woods to reach Ravneberget Bygdeborg, a hillfort with magnificent views of Fredrikstad, Torsnes and the sea.
Nearby is the Storedal Cultural Center, an outdoor sculpture park with sensory garden
Cocktails: Visit rooftop cocktail bar Savoy Terrasse, for amazing views and delicious drinks.
Day 4
Relax: make breakfast, spend the morning chilling out
Ride: choose a route out in the countryside
Dinner: for casual fine dining with a fish focus and view of the river, book at Slippen; at Restaurant KØL for grill and meats with outdoor dining in the main town, or Nomads social dining restaurant for small, Asian-inspired dishes
Day 5
Fly home; try to leave in the morning
Other options for Fredriskstad
Markets are on a Saturday morning in the Old Town Square. Collect goodies for a picnic lunch and head to have a picnic at the Vollane ramparts of the Old Town.
Østfold art centre has art exhibitions and a small café offering delicious food and wonderful views of the Glomma river.
Blå Grotte, St. Croix and Gamlebyen Kulturhus are all culture houses that host concerts, theatre, dance, and puppet shows.
Café Magenta. The garden at the old town culture house is also a wonderful place to spend a summer evening.
Other 4-5 night Itineraries
Harbours to Highlands. A New England road trip itinerary for Summer
A summer touring holiday through New England - Maine, Vermont a Boston.
Itinerary At A Glance
16 night independent touring itinerary for Massachussetts, Maine and Vermont, taking a circular route, starting and finishing in Boston
Based on flying into Boston, and hiring a car for the entirety of the trip
Highlights include cycling the pine forests of Maine, a boat trip out of Boothbay Harbour, burnt ends at Bluebird BBQ, Saturday Farmers Market in Burlington, SUP yoga on Lake Champlain, MTB riding all over the Green Mountain State, Boston Walking Tour and seeing the Red Sox vs The Yankees play at traditional Fenway Park
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Maine is a long-time holiday destination for domestic tourists though most British people visit New England for the autumn colours, or ‘leaf peeper’ tourists as they are affectionately known locally. We bucked this trend and headed there in high summer, hence, we went without too much expectation.
What we found was green, grand and glorious. Maine smells of pine trees, Lake Champlain is breathtakingly beautiful, and Boston is just hip enough without taking itself too too seriously. Maine in particular is a sailor’s paradise (I’m imagining here - I’m no sailor), with endless islands, coves and inlets to explore but we also found it a delight to explore land on two wheels. Vermont is a superb spot for two-wheeled activities of all stripes. All in all, a recommended spot for a summer visit.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Almost perfectly.
7 nights in Maine was a little too long for us; the location is better suited to folks who like to spend their time on the water - sailing, fishing, kayaking - none of which we do. 4 nights in Maine probably would have worked better for us.
7 nights in Burlington for us was also perfect - plenty of time to really get to know this active city and a lot of MTB options.
3 nights in Boston is ideal.
Drive time between destinations was perfect. Travelling in the car this way, we got to see parts of New Hampshire that we may never visit if it meant making a dedicated holiday there.
Would I make another visit?
Certainly to Vermont, and could even see us returning to spend more time in Burlington itself. The entire Lake Champlain region makes a fantastic destination for biking, whether road or MTB.
I feel I have now seen enough of both Maine and Boston to not return, though I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend either.
WHEN
August
Very warm and sunny was what we experienced for the majority of the trip, with the odd cloudy or rainy few hours.
Typically warm to hot, with rain.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 05:40am to 06:43am
Sunset: 20:18pm to 19:31pm
13-14 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Fly from Manchester to Boston, drive between locations, fly back out from Boston
We obviously took our car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as hiring bikes in both Maine and Vermont
ROUTE & STOPS
Drive 1,028 km, 11 hours 45 mins, over 16 days
Drive Yorkshire to Manchester; Fly into Boston
Drive from Boston to Boothbay Harbour (2h 40m drive) for a 7 night stay
Drive from Boothbay Harbour to Burlington (5h drive) for a 7 night stay; drive through New Hampshire’s White Mountains along the way
Drive from Burlington to Boston (3h 45m drive) for a 3 night stay
Fly Boston to Manchester; drive back to Yorkshire
ACCOMMODATION
Boothbay Harbour
Apartment called ‘Boothbay Harbour Cottage Apartment’ (no longer operating)
Lovely. About a 10 minute stroll from centre of Boothbay Harbour village, and a bakery-cafe just round the corner. Small outdoor space too for reading and relaxing on the warm summer evenings, a place where we regularly did and saw hummingbirds to boot.
Burlington
This carriage house studio apartment
Idyllic. Large studio apartment, kitchenette, private terrace overlooking the mature and immaculate garden, ample space for two (despite only being a studio), parking, located in quick and easy access to both central Burlington and Lake Champlain (each about 15 minutes’ walk). Recommended.
Boston
Apartment called ‘Boston Christopher’ (no longer operating)
Not recommended. Devoid of atmosphere, strange, looking at a brick wall.
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Fly to Boston; Drive Boston to Boothbay Harbour
About 9-10 hours flying; About 420km, 2hrs 40m driving
Boothbay Harbour - Day 1 to 7
Had several breakfast waffles at Mama D’s - with a porch terrace, rocking chair and clapboard exterior, this felt like quintessential New England to me. Good coffee and friendly service, located just outside Boothbay Harbour town, so full of locals for an authentic experience.
Cycled around Southport Island
Visited Maine Lobster Festival in Rockland. Got ‘lobster takeaway’ and watched the locals partake in mad games on the water a la Takeshi’s Castle
Went out on a sailboat with a local guide
Had plenty of blueberry soda - a taste of Maine for us
Day 8 - Drive between Boothbay Harbour and Burlington
Stopped in Jackson, New Hampshire for lunch and a leg stretch. Sought out the covered bridges of New Hampshire along the way.
About 420km, 5hrs driving
Day 8 to 14 - Burlington, Vermont
Had several bakery breakfasts at August First cafe
Cycled into the Island Line Trail into Lake Champlain - 45km loop follows Burlington’s waterfront via the Burlington Greenway and heads out on the beautiful Colchester Causeway three miles into the middle of the lake.
Rode the MTB trails at Cady Hill near Stowe - well worth a visit.
Rode the MTB trails at Saxon Hill, just outside of Burlington - flowy singletrack with boardwalks - recommended
Burlington Farmer’s Market comes to town on Saturday morning and offers a fantastic mix of ready-to-eat treats and tasty ingredients to take home and cook with. We had THE most delicious sour cherry bagel with a cream cheese dip, noshed in the square with the sounds of a guitarist strumming for the pleasure of the market crowd. Delightful.
Dined at Bluebird BBQ, in Burlington, for classic american barbecue, burnt ends and Vermont beer. Recommended.
Did some SUP yoga on Lake Champlain
Day 14 - Drive between Burlington and Boston
About 348km, 3hr 20mins driving
Day 14 to 16 - Boston
Booked tickets for Boston Red Sox vs. NY Yankees at Fenway Park - for me, one of the highlights of the trip, since we didn’t plan this! These two are ancient rivals - we couldn’t have been more lucky to have them be playing each other on the Saturday we were in Boston. A great experience, even for those uninitiated in the game of baseball. Great atmosphere and wonderful memory.
Visited the Patriots Hall of Fame
Took a Walking Tour with Boston by Foot - excellent. Informative and fun.
Had all-American sandwiches at Sam La Grassa in downtown Boston
Day 17 - Fly Boston to Manchester
About 9-10 hours
Sewing projects for a Summer itinerary
Quimper - an off-season active itinerary for Spring
A 7-night springtime itinerary with medieval Quimper as the base. Cider, cycling, springtime walks, crepes and art.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 night independent itinerary for the very northwest tip of France, using Quimper as the base
Based on travelling at the very end of winter/start of spring, driving there using the channel tunnel.
Highlights include discovering the Pont-Aven school of art, eating crepes in their cultural homeland, coastal biking
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
This is an alternative option for exploring Brittany in its off-season, using Quimper as the main base, for easy access to city, country, coast and culture, with all activities within a 1 hour drive or less.
Every image you will ever see for Brittany tourism - every website, every accommodation listing - will show Brittany in the summer time, bathed in gorgeous sunshine. It’s true that early spring is unpredictable in the northwest corner of Europe; we can get everything from blue skies and frigid air, to bouncing rain, to snow, freezing cold and biting winds, to very warm and sunny days hovering around 20°C. You just don’t know what you’re gonna get.
This makes it a brilliant month for a road trip, and a great month for venturing outside (dressed accordingly!) If the weather is just too much, there’s plenty indoor cultural action to amuse too.
Quimper is considered by many to be the ‘cultural heart’ of Brittany, and stretching from the coast to inland, there is the Parc naturel régional d'Armorique, a huge natural park with rugged granite peaks, moors & dense forests. Due to unpredictable weather, indoorsing will be a key fallback, so staying close to a city means cultural and foodie activities are in easy reach for when the weather just isn’t playing ball.
WHEN
April
Like the UK, April can be either cold and snowing, or warm and sunny, Take clothing options and plan activities that account for these unknowable circumstances.
TRAVEL MEANS
Drive from Leeds, using the Channel Tunnel crossing + Road Bike
Drive time is 12.5hrs. Alternative, similar travel time is to cross using the ferry from Plymouth to Roscoff
ACCOMMODATION
Near Quimper
Quimper’s countryside, being more inland, has much more of a ‘cosy’ comforting feel to it than the brazen and rocky boldness of the coast around Brest.
3 bed home on the banks of the River Odet
Auberge des Glazicks - Michelin-starred restaurant-with-rooms about 30 mins drive from Quimper
Hôtel Ginkgo - Just outside the city centre, boutique hotel with some rooms giving views over the River Odet
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Drive to Quimper - this is a 12.5 hour journey. Pack the car with supplies and plan the route with opportunities for break points
Check-in
Collect groceries
Day 2
Brunch or Lunch - with local cider at Le Sistrot
Bike ride - out to Parc botanique de Cornouaille (about 2hr bike ride round-trip)
Day 3
Crepe workshop - for the morning activity, book onto a crepe-making workshop in Benodet (25 min drive from Quimper)
Embroidery art - in the afternoon, visit the School of Embroidery Art by Pascal Jaouen in Quimper where they have regular exhibitions of artistic embroidery
Day 4
Relax - take the morning to chill
Walk - in the early-afternoon, take a walk in the Bois du Nevet (25 min drive from Quimper)
Evening Drinks - try local brew at La Baleine Déshydraté in Quimper
Day 5
All day bike ride - Start in the morning, bike out to Pont-Aven (4 hour bike ride round trip) and stop in at Le Musée de Pont-Aven to see their considerable collection of works from this area, most dating from mid-to-late 19th Century
Day 6
Walk - Take a morning walk in the Huelgoat Forest (50 min drive from Quimper)
Relax - Take the afternoon to chill out, read, draw, chat
Day 7
Spa day - Book a spa day of thalasso therapy at Valdys Spa in Dourarnez (30 min drive from Quimper)
Day 8
Drive home
Other April Itineraries
Jersey - a long weekend in Spring
My travel itinerary for 3 nights in Jersey, Channel Islands. Walking, history and dining.
Itinerary At A Glance
3 night independent itinerary for Jersey, part of the Channel Islands, off the south coast of England
Based on either flying in and out of Jersey from Leeds, or Liverpool
Highlights include gastropub dining on English-French fusion fare, pick-your-own pearl for jewellery, Jersey War Tunnels and craggy coastal walks.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and hiking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why Jersey?
Elegant.
Teensy.
Historic.
It does rather pack a punch in terms of interesting things to do and see over a long weekend.
Much of it’s interest rests on the 5-year long German occupation, indeed the only part of the British territory under occupation during WWII, and theremnants and historical sites that stand testament to this cultural oddity are now visitor attractions.
As well as this though, there are plenty of beaches, coves and coastal paths for wandering, some excellent restaurants, and loads of trips and activities on the sea, which is always in easy reach no matter where you stay on the island.
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
What do people expect from Jersey?! Wealth and the remnants of war?? We got that. Some of the property is knock-your-socks-off-stunning, and there are leavings of occupation kind of everywhere.
I think what exceeded expectations though, was how picturesque it is. Tiny little valleys nestled in leafy woods that suddenly give out onto a view of the sea. Turquoise blue coves (the picture above is snapped on my phone with no filter). Ancient towers on the horizon. Harbourside restaurants.
The hotel was excellent, the walking was lovely, and the weather put on a very very good show, with blue skies, warm sun and a light breeze. Late May is a lovely time to visit.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
3 days was just right. There isn’t endless amounts of stuff to do on the island, and it could become a bit same-y in my view. The one thing I wished we had seen was The Celtic Hoard at la Hougue Bie.
Would I recommend it? Would I make another visit?
Can definitely recommend it, though for us personally, one trip is likely enough. Maybe we’ll go back in another 10 years.
WHEN
Late May
The last week in May is a school holiday, so things book up quickly.
We got warm (not hot) the whole time. May be changeable.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 05:14am to 5:09am
Sunset: 20:58pm to 21:04pm
16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Fly direct from Leeds to Jersey with Jet2, or direct from Liverpool to Jersey with Easyjet
The flight schedule is more restrictive from Leeds Bradford, with flights only on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, whereas flights from Liverpool are daily.
ACCOMMODATION
Greenhills Country House Hotel
An excellent hotel - peacful, elegant and relaxed.
Being such a tiny island, and a popular one, accommodation choices are somewhat limited and what there is books up very very quickly. This needs to be booked very well ahead of time.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Arrive; settle in.
Dinner: at the hotel
Day 2
Experience: Booked Pick-A-Pearl experience at Jersey Pearl - chose, and graded pearls for jewellery.
Play: Roccos Crazy Golf in St Ouen’s Bay. Open 9am – 5pm everyday (not bookable)
Walk: Took in one of the coastal path walks up near Plémont and the ruins of 14c Grosnez Castle
Dinner: Ate at Cheffins at Beaumont Inn
Day 3
Jersey War Tunnels: Book a ticket for an understanding of the island under German Occupation, the only part of the British Isles occupied during World War II
Walk: Took a walk on the east coast, taking in St Catherines, Archirondel and Mont Orgueil Castle
Ice Cream: stop at The Botanic Gardens at Samarès Manor
Dinner: Booked for relaxed dinner at The Old Court House Inn, in St Aubin’s - relaxed, yet polished pub dining, with an alfresco option. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Day 4
Breakfast
Morning in St Helier: See the Occupation Tapestry at the Maritime Museum in St Helier (12 panels, woven by islanders commemorating liberation from 5 years of Nazi rule)
Travel home
Ideas for another visit
-
Visit ‘Searching for Jersey’s Celts’ exhibition at La Hougue Bie, home of Le Câtillon II – the world’s largest Celtic hoard ever found, including thousands of coins and several pieces of jewellery. The site is also home to a neolithic village.
Tour St Catherine’s Bunker - 2 hour tour of WWII German fortification and tunnel complex.
Become a Distiller for the Day at The Gin Lab, La Côte Distillery in St Helier
Sunset tours aboard Jersey Duchess - 2 hour tour, departing from St Helier
See St Helier as it may have been in the early 1800’s at 16 New Street Georgian House Museum - Open Wed, Thu & Fri, 10am to 4pm
Visit Elizabeth Castle, just off the coast in St Helier
-
Feast on Gorey Pier, overlooking Mont Orgueil Castle. Open Tues lunch to Sunday lunch
Book at gastropub Bass & Lobster, in Gorey.
Book for Samphire Brasserie in St Helier - relaxed, yet polished fine dining, with alfresco and private dining options. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Tues to Sat. Closed Sunday & Monday.
Other Short Itineraries
Stockholm - a workcation in Autumn
A work-meets-play autumn break in Stockholm. How we enjoyed a workcation trip amidst falling leaves and the last of the long days for the year.
Itinerary at a glance
5 day independent itinerary for Stockholm, based on flying in and out of Leeds in October
Highlights include mushroom foraging experience, golden sun slanting through golden leaves, baked goods, an ice hockey game and an in-depth look at the female founder of Svenskt Tenn, Estrid Ericson.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
Just like our last trip to Sweden, Stockholm exceeded our expectations. Compared to London, and in fact, the overall busy-ness of the UK, it is hard to credit that Stockholm is the capital city. So chilled. None of that pavement overcrowding nonsense. No wrestling to enter or exit the metro. Hardly a queue anywhere. Such a relaxing city, and a relaxed place to spend a few days. The nature and water is also everywhere, which adds to the tranquility.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely. We are experimenting with workcation formats, and this one worked. Getting to extend a city break by a few working days whilst there really lets us slip into the vibe of the city and get to know it far better than can be managed on 2 or 3 short and packed days.
Would I make another visit?
Would I…………..we could live in Sweden. Would love to see the city in both winter and spring, however, there isn’t the same volume of things to do in Stockholm as compared to some of Europe’s other capitals, so my suggestion would be to plan itinerary with 2 or 3 days’ worth of sightseeing, which will have you see a good chunk. It would be a great stop point for a longer road trip around Sweden.
WHEN
Mid-October
Autumn foliage
Cool to cold, bright golden sunshine (just as likely to get wet and grey)
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds, changing in Amsterdam
Fast train from the airport to the city centre. Throughout the city, we relied on walking and a little of the underground.
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed in this Airbnb
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Tuesday
Travel in the morning
Settle in
Grocery shopping & Late Lunch - Östermalms Saluhall
Day 2 - Wednesday
Work
Svenskt Tenn exhibition “ A Philosophy of Home”
Evening ice-hockey game - Ice hockey is probably the team sport most closely associated with Sweden, with the most prominent clubs in Stockholm being Djurgården and AIK. The ice hockey season starts in September and lasts to March and Stockholm has a couple of notable ice hockey rinks:
Hovet: Originally known as Johanneshovs Isstadion, Hovet is one of Stockholm’s oldest and most iconic ice hockey arenas and is home to AIK Hockey and Djurgården Hockey.
Avicii Arena: Previously known as the Ericsson Globe and Stockholm Globe Arena, this arena is commonly referred to as “Globen” in Swedish. It is a major venue for ice hockey, concerts, and other events. Closed for modernisation until 2025
Book tickets here
Day 3 - Thursday
Work
Day 4 - Friday
Wandered Stockholm on foot
VasaMuseet - home of a 17th century warship
Prince Eugen’s art collection at Waldermarsudde - Since 1948, Waldemarsudde has been open to the public, allowing visitors to explore Prince Eugen’s extensive art collection and his beautifully preserved home. Obligatory cafe on site. Closed Mondays, late night opening Thursdays until 8pm
Evening Meal at Meatballs For the People - delish, and highly unusual. Had the Elk meatballs against a backdrop of Y2K RnB party choons. Class.
Day 5 - Saturday
Day 6 -Sunday
Breakfast at Stora Bageriet - Just around the corner from The Royal Dramatic Theatre is the entrance to the bakery where breakfast and light lunch is served. We first went on another day and there was a queue out the door………….when we returned on our final morning, arriving just after 8am, we knew why. Had the most delicious Salted Vanilla roll………….
Travel home
Ideas for another visit
-
Stay a couple of days on Grinda Island in summer - accessible from Stockholm by a 1 hour fast boat from Vaxholm, this island is the home of a traditional inn, where you can relax and enjoy the archipelago’s slow pace of life for a few days
-
The light festival in Brunnsviken - Join locals in early November, to take part in a procession of lit torches to bring illumination to the start of the dark season
Stockholm Jazz Festival - Happens annually, in the middle of October
Walking Tour - https://www.viator.com/tours/Stockholm/Unique-walking-tour/d907-73361P1
Ghost Walk - runs 4:30pm to 6:00pm most days. Options in Gamla Stan or Sodermalm
Guided tours of the Riksdag (Swedish Parliament) - Each day between September and June there are free tours for 28 people. The tours are in English and start at 1:30pm
-
Kanelbullens dag (Cinnamon Bun Day) is celebrated on October 4th each year.
September Sunset at Restaurang Slipen - If you prefer a sundowner to breakfast, at Slipen, you can also sit by the jetty in the early evenings and have a glass of wine and look out over the water while the sun sets over Beckholmen. In my view, September is the month for sunset’s in northern Europe, with the sun starting to dip and paint the sky with colour around 7:50pm in early-September up to 6:25pm in late-September
Other October Itineraries
Penzance - biking, brunching and lido-bathing in blackberry season
Spending a spell in Penzance, in late summer. Blackberries, biking, brunch and bathing.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Penzance and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in August
Highlights include Saltwater & Geo-thermal lido, dinner at a harbourside fish restaurant, Museum of Global Communications in Porthcurno and a day trip to the Isles of Scilly
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
The English seaside can be rather a disappointment to me - I’m talking the seaside towns made popular in the Victorian era that have now descended into a recurrent cheap theme of tacky shops, rickety fairground rides, fish & shop shops, arcades and absolutely zero culture worth speaking of.
I wasn’t necessarily expecting Penzance to be this, but you never know with an English seaside town……..there is always the risk………..Penzance was therefore an absolute surprise. What saves it, I think, is that it is a working harbour town, saved from the fate described above, by having actual industry instead. This isn’t a town built on tourism, its a town built on fishing.
In both Newlyn (where we stayed) and in Penzance, we encountered lots and lots of independent shops and eateries, a friendly and relaxed vibe.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
4 days was spot on. Would have been even better to have been able to use the location as a jump off to the Isles of Scilly, but alas, this wasn’t meant to be (see note on schedule below).
The riding is wonderful, but also challenging - we encountered multiple climbs in excess of 10% and same for the descents. This is not riding for the fainthearted, but we were rewarded by regular stops to graze on the ripe and fragrant blackberries that were fruiting in the hedgerows along the side of the road.
The one thing I will say is that this drive was a looooooooooong way from Yorkshire - it took 9 hours in the end due to bits and bats of roadworks, plus some accidents. I would say that the fact we were there in the height of school holiday season - August - contributed to this experience, so would suggest that if you can, make a visit outside these times, or fin som way to break up the journey. No matter when you go, it is at least 7 hours to drive there, and navigating the busy road network through the middle of England is unlikely to go smoothly.
Would I recommend it? Would I make another visit?
Can definitely recommend it, though for us personally, one trip is likely enough. Maybe we’ll go back in another 10 years.
WHEN
August
This is high season for Cornwall, with the kids being off school. Be sure to book early for best availability.
We got warm (not hot), with one rainy day. Expect changeable weather at any time, including strong sun, rain, mist, fog and wind.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 05:51am to 6:36am
Sunset: 21:05pm to 20:08pm
16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car & Road bike
Driving from Yorkshire to Cornwall should be about 7 hours each way but expect more for traffic issues.
Road bike for activities while there.
ACCOMMODATION
This rental on Booking.com
1.5 miles to central Penzance
luxury and modern
well suited for a couple
free parking
outdoor space
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Drive, start in the morning, collect groceries, arrive and settle in
Day 2
Bike ride: Round trip, 25km, 350m climbing. Newlyn-Mousehole-Sancreed-Heamoor-Penzance-Newlyn.
Dinner: in the flat
Day 3
Relax: make breakfast, spend the morning chilling out
Bike ride: Round trip, 40km, 580m climbing. Newlyn-Mousehole-Pourthcurno-Lands End-Sennen Cove-St Buryan-Paul-Newlyn.
Visited the Museum of Global Communications in Porthcurno: in 1870, the first international telegraph cable was brought ashore at Porthcurno, connecting Britain to India and later other parts of the British Empire. By the start of World War II, Porthcurno was a critical hub for allied communications with 14 cables coming ashore, carrying some 70% of all communications. A fantastic place to visit. Really tells the story of the pioneers who made our current world of always-on, rapid communication, possible.
Dinner: Booked at Argoe, harbourside fish restaurant. Excellent. Whole monkfish cooked on the bone over coals, to share. Best monkfish I have ever eaten. Terrace overlooking the working harbour fell silent for the evening.
Day 4
THE ORIGINAL PLAN GOT CANCELLED DUE TO WEATHER!
The plane flying across to the Isles of Scilly is teensy, hence, liable to get cancelled if the weather is not favourable. Sady for us, despite every other day being 22 deg.C and sunny, the day we were booked to travel to St Mary’s, the cloud was very low and visibility was too poor to fly.
Day trip to St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly: Fly from Lands End with Skybus (book early - you are unlikely to grab a seat on the day)
Collect a picnic lunch from Hugh Street Café or Tanglewood Kitchen
Walk the St Marys Island Coastal path: 17km, 3.5h hike
THE BACK-UP PLAN!
Go to The Eden Project
Dinner: easy-breezy modern fish-and-hip shop with a twist, Mackerel Sky
Day 5
Morning swim: Jubliee Pool Saltwater Lido & Geothermal Pool, 1 hour session - you need to book this several days in advance - you are highly unlikely to get a spot on the day. Lovely to bob about in the warm pool. Expect it to be busy.
Brunch: 45 Queen St (strictly walk-ins only, open from 10am, closed Monday & Tuesday). Highly recommended.
Drive home
RIDING IN SOUTHWEST CORNWALL
Riding around Newlyn and Penzance is scenic but not effortless. The terrain isn’t mountainous, but it’s rarely flat - short, punchy climbs and winding roads keep you working. Riding shifts beteen deep shade, to bright sea vistas. It’s a region best suited to confident riders who enjoy a bit of unpredictability: weather, narrow lanes, and the occasional steep descent. That said, there are a lot of road options to choose from, so you can mostly avoid traffic, and the views make it worth the effort.
Ideas for another visit
-
Stay on the Roseland Peninsula, just south of Truro and across the water from Falmouth
-
Bike ride: Take in the whole of West Penwith, starting in Penzance, on this 65km road ride
Visit St Michael’s Mount
Evening Show: at The Minack theatre - advance booking essential
Visit Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens (gardens open daily 10.30am – 5.30pm, though Gallery closed Sunday and Mondy) with lunch at Tremenheere Kitchen
Newlyn Art Gallery & Exchange- this gallery has loads of events, including vintage fairs happen in the Autumn, textile workshops and Newlyn art walking tours happening on just 4 to 6 dates in the spring and summer. These need to be booked well in advance, with
Golowan Festival is a 10-day festival of arts, performances, culture and parades. It’s the UK’s second largest street festival and happens in June.
Penzance Art Festival is also on in June
-
Breakfast at Artist Residence
Supper club at Chapel House Penzance
Visit Nancarrow Farm for one of their famed Feasts or Sunday Lunch with home-reared organic meat
Visit Potager Garden for brunch (near Falmouth)
Other Countryside Itineraries
Brest in Winter - combined biking with city break
Brest in Finisterre in the off-season. Winter hikes, thalasso therapy, eating crepes, and admiring the early sunset off the west coast.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for the very northwest tip of France - Finistère in Brittany - choosing the outskirts of Brest as the base
Based on travelling at the very end of winter/start of spring, flying in and out of Brest. Car will also be essential to move around.
Highlights include a winter hike around the Crozon peninsula, artisanale beer and lemonade, biscuits and a visit to one of the most important oceanogrphic centres in the world.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here? Why March?
Brittany is almost always shown in summer — search the internet and its mostly golden light and blue skies. But March offers a different perspective. The climate is similar to southern England: mild, wet, and unpredictable. Expect anything from crisp sunshine to bouncing rain, even the odd snow flurry. It’s not warm, but it’s rarely bitter — daytime temperatures hover around 8–11°C.
This trip uses the outskirts of Brest as a base, giving easy access to coast, countryside, and culture all within an hour’s drive. Finistère, the westernmost part of Brittany, is wrapped almost entirely by ocean. Like Cornwall, with which it shares Celtic roots, the region has an island-like feel: the sea is never far, and often in view.
Brest itself is a major urban centre, rebuilt after heavy WWII bombing. While it lacks historic architecture, it makes up for it with a lively harbour, a strong maritime identity, and a surprising claim - it’s considered the European capital of oceanography, home to over half of France’s maritime researchers.
In March, staying near a city makes sense. Weather may force changes, but museums, galleries, and restaurants stay open year-round. It’s a practical base for an off-season road trip, with plenty of indoor options when the outdoors won’t cooperate.
WHEN
March
Likely chilly (but not freezing)
Like the UK, March can be either cold and snowing, or warm and sunny, with spring bursting forth early. Take clothing options and plan activities that account for these unknowable circumstances.
LIGHT
Moderate daylight
Sunrise: 07:59am to 07:58am
Sunset: 19:02pm to 20:47pm
11-12 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
EITHER
Fly indirect from Manchester to Brest with AirFrance, transferring through Paris
OR
Fly indirect from Leeds to Brest, with KLM-AirFrance, transferring through Amsterdam and Paris
OR
Fly Liverpool to Nantes with Easyjet, then drive 3h 45m to Brest
In summer, there are many more flights, including Leeds to Brest via Dublin, with AerLingus.
ACCOMODATION LOCATION
Near Brest
Just outside of Brest is the Plougastel-Daoulas peninsula, which is easily accessible to Brest via a bridge over the water that connects the two.
There is also the commune of Le Relecq-Kerhuon, just to the east of Brest and giving right out onto the beach.
Either of which would make an excellent base for the delights of both city and country. The views in this part of Finistère are all about ocean, ocean, ocean.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Fly in the morning, drive in the afternoon, collect groceries, arrive and settle in
Day 2
Brunch: at La Coloc overlooking Brest harbour
Visit Atelier des Capucins: Former shipbuilding workshops, now the largest covered public square in Europe. A huge and diverse public meeting spot with food, performance, art, shopping…also accessible by cable car!
Visit ocean museum 70.8 maritime innovation gallery: Opened in 2020, and located in the Atelier des Capucins, 70.8 is a center for technical and scientific culture dedicated to the ocean, presenting maritime innovation in all its aspects.
Tour Tanguy: for an immersive experience of Brest’s long history
Day 3
Hike Crozon peninsula: Drive to Crozon for a hike
Day 4
Relax
Le Comoedia Galerie d'Art: contemporary gallery with a strong focus on street art
Brasserie Poem Brewery, making artisanale beer and lemonade (Bar open from 4pm to 12:30am on weekends, with tours of the brewery available Fridays only, 9am to 5pm)
Evening Show at Le Quartz theatre
Day 5
Travel home
Ideas for another visit
Visit Peck & Co, a gastronomy concept store, a dining boutique with various inspirations, a place where you can snack from 9:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m
Lunch at Le Castelach
In summer, visit the Crozon peninsula by sea, on board the Brestoâ or the Loch Monna from Brest
In the summer, every 4 years (next is 2028) is the International Maritime Festival, where a flotilla of traditional boats gather in the harbour from all over the world, alongside a programme of artistic and cultural performances
Other Off-season Itineraries
Alnmouth, Northumberland Coast - a weekend in late Summer
My travel journal for a short, late summer break in Alnmouth. Sand and castles.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Alnmouth and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in early September
Highlights include morning beach walk, hike around Bamburgh Castle and fish lunch at The Potted Lobster
Based on a group travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Alnmouth caught my eye as a quiet corner of Northumberland — easy to reach from Yorkshire, yet far enough to feel like an escape. It’s known for its sweeping beaches and dramatic skies, but the cold North Sea keeps the crowds away, making it feel like a secret.
I’d heard about a standout fish restaurant in Bamburgh (The Potted Lobster), which tipped the balance in favour of this stretch of coast. The idea was set: build an itinerary around seasonal eating, coastal walking, and the kind of scenery that lingers.
Honest verdict
Does it live up to hype or expectations?
I would say it exceeded our expectations in every way. What a gorgeous weekend.
Firstly, the quality of the beaches is just outstanding. Wide, golden powdery sand, and quiet. They are such sterling examples, it’s hard to believe how quiet they are. We personally enjoy beaches for the views (rather than the swimming orthe sunbathing), and these beaches are made for walks and running, and took our breath away as we happened upon one during a coastal walk.
Secondly, there is so much preserved history here. The villages along the coast are out of the way of heavy traffic, so they benefit from not being a throughway to anywhere else - you have to be going there to stumble upon one of these villages. This remoteness has probably protected them from rampant overtouristing or modernisation. Alnmouth was like walking back in time; an idyllic little high street full of character and clearly recently rejuvenated to make the most of its historic charms for the modern traveller.
From start to finish, thoroughly recommended.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely.
2 nights in Alnmouth felt correct for us, perhaps up to 3 nights would work. The charms of this massive county are rather spread out, from the AONB coastline in the east, to Kielder Water and Dark Sky Park in the middle, to Hadrian’s Wall on the northern border, but this, in fact, makes it an ideal place for short 2-night trips to sample a little of Northumberland each and every time.
We travelled as a family group, and had just enough going on to give structure to the trip without overwhelming us. Perhaps better would have been to do a group activity on the Saturday afternoon, with dinner at The Potted Lobster rather than lunch.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit Northumberland again, though would focus on another area.
WHEN
Early September
The start of the shoulder season. Best time for sunsets.
We experienced a hot tail to summer, with 27C sunny. Expect anything from hot to cool and rainy.
LIGHT
Moderate daylight
Sunrise: 06:12am
Sunset: 19:59pm
14 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car
Drive from Leeds takes about 2.5 hours
ACCOMMODATION
The Whittling House, Pub with Rooms
situated on a gorgeous little street running down to the beach
luxury and modern
well suited for a couple
slightly tricky parking
excellent on-site restaurant
a touch noisy due to it being a pub
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the evening, arrive and settle in at The Whittling House, Alnmouth
Dinner: at the Whittling House
Day 2 - Saturday
Lunch: The Potted Lobster, Bamburgh. Top notch fish restaurant
Hike: Walking loop around Bamburgh Castle & town, 14km
Dinner: The Joiners Arms
Day 3 - Sunday
Morning beach walk: there is a gorgeous stretch of golden sandy beach right at the bottom of the high street in Alnmouth. Late summer sees a hazy and fresh start to the morning, perfect for a morning beach stroll
Drive home
Back-up plans for rainy days
Visit inside of Bamburgh Castle - still fully functioning and one of the most imposing castles on the British Isles
Other Short UK Itineraries
A Summer drive-and-ride through Belgium & Northern France
Itinerary journal of my summer tour through the Belgian Ardennes and Northern France. Bikes very much mandatory.
Itinerary At A Glance
14 night independent touring itinerary for Belgium and France, taking a coast-to-coast route starting in Rotterdam, finishing in Cherbourg
Based on driving from Leeds, with bikes, using ferry transport from Hull to Rotterdam, back into the UK from Cherbourg
Highlights include Belgian beer, a cycle ride through water, visiting the ghostly remains of an F1 race track from the 1960s, cycling the river-strewn landscape of the Loire Valley, picnic at Chateau de L’Islette, The Bayeaux Tapestry, and D-Day museum at Arromanches-les-Bains.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
This was our very first trip taking our car from Leeds across into Europe, and so, to make this introductory experience as easy as possible, we chose to make the driving the least onerous we could by not venturing too far into the continent.
Northern Europe is a lovely place to spend the summer; verdant, warm, buzzing with the life of festivals and outdoorsing often denied to us in the colder, wetter months. Throughout this region, there is a palpable excitement that summer is here, and a determinedness to enjoy it while we can.
We chose Wallonia for its forested hills, quiet roads, and brewing heritage. Reims offered a counterpoint — not for champagne, but for the haunting remains of a forgotten F1 circuit. The Loire Valley is the land of river and chateaux. The riding promised was easy, quiet, and punctuated with ample towns, villages, markets, chateaux, vineyards and culture. Normandy, with its layered history and coastal charm, rounded out the journey with something a little more serious - warttime history and medieval tapestry.
Every location on this trip offered excellent biking opportunities - whether that’s leisurely pootles or long-distance leg-burners - as well as discovery, and rest. A kind of slow travel that lets the landscape unfold at the speed of a bike.
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
One of the very best holidays we have ever taken, ever. I don’t think it is possible for France to disappoint, such is the density of loveliness, culture and history, but Belgium was an unexpected surprise, totally exceeding our expectations in every way.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Perfectly. Not too much driving, but enough to cover some real distance between place to place. Travelling in the car this way, we also got to see parts of Holland, Belgium and France that we would probably never visit if it meant making a dedicated holiday there.
Would I make another visit?
Certainly - with the exception of Champagne region. While we had a good time there, this was my least favourite spot, but Belgium, Loire Valley and Normandy held so much appeal, with many more options for a visit than we could fit into this trip.
WHEN
July
Very warm and sunny was what we experienced for the full two weeks, though I was prepared for some occasional overcast or rainy days which failed to come.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 06:01am to 06:33am
Sunset: 22:10pm to 21:42pm
15-16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Ferry from Hull into Rotterdam, and out of Cherbourg into Poole
We obviously took our car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as road bikes attached with a carrier.
ROUTE & STOPS
Drive 1,407 km, 16 hours, over 14 days
Ferry Hull into Rotterdam (overnight crossing); drive to Belgian Ardennes for a 3 night stay; stop off at Delft for breakfast and Genk for Ride Thru The Water
Drive from Belgian Ardennes to Reims (Champagne region) for a 2 night stay
Drive from Reims to Loire Valley for a 5 night stay; stop off at Montargis along the way
Drive from Loire Valley to Caen; stop off at Le Mans along the way
Ferry Cherbourg to Poole; drive back to Yorkshire
Image of full route with all stops
ACCOMMODATION
Reims
Centrally located, clean, modern, large apartment. Only issue was a lack of parking and note that Reims operates a Low Emission Zone, for which you need to have a permit before you arrive in France.
Loire Valley
Idyllic. Large kitchen, private outdoor area, ample space for two, fairly rurally located in quick and easy access to the quiet country lanes perfect for road cycling with space in the hallway for bikes. Recommended.
near Caen
Garage-turned-holiday let, this was a lovely little compact space in a residential village on the outskirts of Caen, with a bakery and pizza restaurant in town. Ideal for cycling, with space in the hallway for bikes. Recommended.
SCHEDULE
Canals in Delft
Day 1 - Drive to Wallonia, with stop-offs in Delft and Genk
Had breakfast in Delft - it was glorious. To my mind, nowhere on earth does ‘cute town’ like the Dutch, and Delft is no exception. Sat by the canal on a warm Monday morning, enjoying Roze koek and Gevulde koek alongside a good coffee, and watched the town come gently to life.
Stopped off in Genk to Ride-Thru-The-Water and made use of the excellent Points-Noeuds system
Durbuy, and the surrounding countryside
Day 1 to 4 - Wallonia
3 nights
Cycled around the Belgian Ardennes, using Visit Wallonia for downloadable .gpx routes.
Dined at miniature little bistro, Ardelle, in Rochefort
Durbuy is a fantastic destination for a bike ride, surrounded by open farmlands with paved cycle routes snaking through
RIDING IN WALLONIA
Wallonia offers varied terrain. The southern areas near the Ardennes are steep and challenging — great for experienced cyclists looking for serious climbs. In contrast, the northern part near the Flanders border is more moderately hilly and better suited to relaxed touring.
This region is ideal for touring: quiet country roads, manageable gradients, and plenty of small towns and villages to stop in.
We found the riding here to be well-balanced and it’s a great region for combining cycling with other interests like food, beer, and local crafts, especially if you plan your routes to include stops or destination activities.
Day 5 - Drive between Belgian Ardennes & Reims
About 165km, 2hrs driving
Stocked up on beer before we left Belgium.
Reim-Gueux race track, former pitlane
Day 5 to 7 - Reims
2 nights
Cycled from Reims out to the abandoned Formula 1 circuit, Reims-Gueux, whose orginal structures including the grandstands, pit buildings and timing tower, still stand today and are preserved as historical landmarks and maintained by local enthusiasts. Eerie and magical, a perfect destination for a road ride before making our way to the more known pastoral landscapes of the Champagne villages and then routing back into Reims
Day 7 - Drive between Reims & Loire Valley
About 480km, 5hr 30mins driving
To break up the long drive, we stopped at Montargis for coffee, cake and a leg stretch. This isn’t a place to go out of your way to visit, but was a decently cute town with plenty of life and options for coffee and baked goods.
Loire Valley scenery
Day 7 to 12 - Loire Valley
5 nights
Picnic’d with live music at Chateau de L'Islette - a highlight of the stay. This place is fairytale stuff, with the River Indre meandering through the grounds, flanked by bridges, lawns and billowing flora. On Fridays and Saturdays throughout July and August, you can buy tickets for their open air picnic with live music; just turn up with your loved ones, blankets, food and drink to enjoy the evening.
RIDING IN THE LOIRE VALLEY
The Loire is ideal for very relaxed, scenic riding. Even beginners and very occasional cyclists will not struggle here. The terrain is mostly flat, with quiet roads and well-marked cycle routes that wind through vineyards, riverside paths, and historic towns. It’s perfect for multi-day touring with cultural stops — châteaux, markets, and wine tastings are never far off. Some of our rides includes:
62km ride taking in Azay-le-Rideau, Langeais and Villandry - Langeais is a picturesque town right on the banks of the Loire and is well worth a stop. There is a market on a Sunday morning that is worth making your destination.
57 km ride taking in Loches, Montrésor and Chedigny - the ‘village-garden’ of Chedigny is a particularly worthwhile waypoint for a road ride.
54km ride to see Rivarennes……funny place this, bit of a ghost town really, clinging deperately to the heritage craft of dried pears.
Day 12 - Drive between Loire Valley & Caen
About 270km, 2hr 45mins driving
We made sure to route through Le Mans to drive the Mulsanne Straight, Inidianapolis and Arnage Corners (all of which is public road when not on a race day).
The Bayeux Tapestry exhibit
Day 12 to 14 - near Caen
Visited Bayeux Tapestry - for me, the absolute highlight of our trip. It is hard to believe this article of history is 1000 years old. It is vast and precious and magical, exhibited wonderfully well and with a very useful audio guide that made me feel like I was in a fantasy novel. Unlike most tourist destinations of this repute, we waited hardly any time to buy tickets and enter, and as an added bonus, Bayeux the town is also utterly adorable - well worth a patisserie stop. We did so at La Pâtisserie de Guillaume.
Visited the D-Day Museum at Arromanches-les-Bains - to tell the tale of Operation Overlord, and in particular, how Allied Forces built and erected a ‘floating port’ off the coast of Arromanches-les-Bains to faciltate the D-Day landings and ongoing supply of men, supplies and equipment for the re-taking of France.
RIDING IN NORMANDY
The riding in Normandy isn’t especially challenging, but it’s not effortless either — the terrain is mostly flat, which means you’re pedalling constantly. Roads are often narrow, with stone walls close to the edge, and the sky tends to hang low and slate-grey. Every so often, the landscape opens up and you catch a glimpse of the sea. It’s steady, atmospheric riding. Here are some routes we took:
Cycled to the Merville Gun Battery through Pegasus Bridge - historically important, Pegasus Bridge was the first bridge to be liberated following D-Day landings on June 6th 1944
Day 15 - Drive between Caen & Cherbourg
About 130km, 1hr 30mins driving
Ferry from Cherbourg back to Poole, then drive back to Yorkshire
Ideas for another visit
-
Stay near Namur
Cycle Wallonia’s UNESCO route
-
Stay near the tiny city of Châteauroux
Visit Musée du Textile et de la Mode (Museum of Textiles & Fashion) in Cholet
Visit Musée de la Chemiserie et de l'Élégance Masculine (Shirt-making and Male Elegance Museum) in the Loire Valley features a textile garden with plants used for textile fibers, dyes, and other related processes
-
Visit Dieppe market, voted best in France in 2020
Take a factory-workshop tour of Bohin, last surviving pin and needle manufacturer in France, located in the Orne department in Normandy
Visit Les Jardins d’Étretat - Clinging close to the cliff, the gardens at Etretat are a poetic mix of landscape and sculpture known as “land-art.”
Visit The Sculpture Garden at the Château de Bois-Guilbert
Dine at Le Goéland 1951, a seasonal restaurant and bar (open during the high season) in a converted bunker from the war on the edge of a peninsula with breath taking views on the sea.
From spring to autumn along the sea front at Le Havre there’s a host of pop-up bars and restaurants, some of which have a view right on the sea.
Swim in the sea water swimming pool, plage du Plat Gousset in Granville
Swim in the Bains des Docks in Le Havre, designed by reputed French architect Jean Nouvel - this 5000 square metre aquatic centre comprises 12 pools, including a 50 x 21 metre outdoor pool, several leisure pools, a sauna, steam room, spa and fitness room.
Dieppe’s outdoor swimming pool offers views of castle and limestone cliffs
Other itineraries & food for France
Cotswolds for William Morris - a weekend in high Summer
A friend and I visited Kelmscott Manor in The Cotswolds. Where else we stayed and ate.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Kelmscott Manor and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in early June
Highlights include a visit to William Morris’ summer home, Kelmscott Manor, a country walk to Lechlade, and dinner at Thyme
Based on a pair of friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Visiting the Cotswolds? Pioneering.
William Morris? Would never have thought……….
Everyone knows the Cotswolds — it’s one of the UK’s most sought-after destinations. But that popularity can be a double-edged sword: high-season prices, packed villages, and the risk of a trip that feels more generic than special. I wanted to see if it was possible to experience the Cotswolds differently.
The idea started with Kelmscott. I’d never thought much about William Morris, but a friend mentioned it, and it piqued my interest. I began to dig into the area’s links to traditional English craft and design, and it felt like a good fit for a short, thoughtful trip.
I planned a two-night stay with a simple itinerary: Kelmscott, a countryside walk, and dinner — all easy to do without a car. We stayed at a pub with a restaurant, which made the logistics smooth and gave us a cosy base. I skipped the more obvious hotspots and Instagram-famous villages, aiming instead for a quieter, more grounded experience about English heritage.
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
When it comes to these kinds of places, I think, there can be a hefty dose of disappointment when you get there as it is thronged to the rafters with tourists and you had to pay through the nose to stay there in high summer. Thankfully, this wasn’t our experience on this trip. We found Kelmscott to be alive with activity but not crowded, and there was nothing at all that we had to queue for. Thyme, similarly, wasn’t overdone nor packed with people trying to fill an Instagram reel.
If you have any interest at all in traditional England, and perhaps learning a little more about one of our most important and beloved artists, thinkers and businessmen, I can highly recommend a trip to Kelmscott.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely. We travelled as a pair of friends, and the three booked activties on Saturday - Kelmscott, walk, then dinner - was a perfect day of memories that we have regularly reminisced about since.
I think it would work equally well to stay a little further out and take a circular bike ride with Kelmscott as the destination.
Also, staying with the pub, with the benefit of a restaurant for dinner on the day of arrival and breakfast on the day of departure, made a 2 night stay very easy indeed.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit Cotswolds again, though would focus on another area.
WHEN
Early June
Probably the most beautiful month to visit England, in my view. Spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.
TRAVEL MEANS
Car
Drive from Leeds takes about 2.5 hours
ACCOMMODATION
The Plough Inn, Pub with Rooms
literally a short walk to Kelmscott Manor
well suited for a pair of friends
slightly tricky parking
a touch noisy due to it being a pub
Kennet, 1883, By William Morris - Photo by Birmingham Museums Trust on Unsplash
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the evening, arrive and settle in
Dinner: at The Plough Inn
Day 2 - Saturday
Kelmscott Manor & Gardens: Seeing up close and personal, the spot where William Morris (and his wife and some other artist hangers-on) would spend summer. The house is filled with remnants of his artistry, as well as that of his wife, Jane, and their life of collecting and making of beautiful things. The garden is also an absolute delight.
Walk: Walking loop from Kelmscott to Lechlade and back, 10km
Dinner & Art: Thyme - couldn’t recommend this place highly enough. The food was superb, as was the service, and the open dining room-kitchen-lounge area, which I believe was a converted barn, contributed greatly to the experience. Thoroughly modern and luxurious. We were also allowed a private view of the art exhibition that was on in the neighbouring space.
Day 3 - Sunday
Breakfast at The Plough Inn
Drive home
Sewing & Wearing
Other Short UK Itineraries
Pembrokeshire in Winter with mountain biking and boutique hotel
Itinerary journal of my winter break in Pembrokeshire. Biking, boutique hotel and Michelin food.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 day independent itinerary for Pembrokeshire in South Wales, based on driving from Leeds, in February
Highlights include mountain biking, a trip to St Davids, winter hike with mysterious standing stones, and staying at Grove of Narberth with 4 AA rosette fine-dining
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
We’d never been to Pembrokeshire, and winter felt like the right time to explore somewhere new without the crowds. Most of the UK stays open year-round, even if a few attractions close — so we decided to chance our arm and see what this corner of Wales had to offer off-season.
It was an anniversary trip, so we treated ourselves to a luxury boutique hotel stay — made sweeter by off-peak prices.
The only thing we couldn’t plan, was the weather. All we dared hope for was dry………..we got our wish.
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday?
We definitely enjoyed this trip - a great off-season alternative for visiting South Wales which is much more typically a summertime destination. The UK actually experiences a very mild winter, with temperatures below zero a fairly uncommon ocurrence, so if you can dress accordingly, many of the outdoor exploring options like hiking and biking remain viable activities even in our coldest months. This is what I was banking on for this trip, and it came good.
Does the place live up to expectations?
Yes and no. The hotel was absolutely outstanding - cannot recommend enough. The Pembrokshire region though, was not my favourite place we have visited in the UK , and I do think we have more beautiful and more picturesque countryside, with a greater variety of things to do. In Wales itself, the North has much more dramatic landscapes and other spots offer better mountain biking. None of this is to say it isn’t worth a visit, but I would say for me, other places hold more appeal.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely - it was the perfect blend of active and restful, mucky and refined, and a great option for the off-season. We were lucky with the weather, as we could have gotten very cold and snowy conditions, but also had back-up options in case that happened.
Would I make another visit?
As much as this was a great trip, particularly considering the fact that it was mid-winter, I can’t personally see myself returning to this part of Wales again; other parts of Wales have more dramatic scenery and more history that I would rather visit instead.
WHEN
February
This is very much off-season for February, so quiet, and many of the typical tourist attracttions may be closed over the winter. An ideal time to enjoy the more local-focused activities and hangouts.
We got cold, dry and cloudy. May be freezing with snow.
LIGHT
Short-ish days
Sunrise: 07:39am
Sunset: 17:28pm
10 hours of daylight
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed at Grove of Narberth
This place was marvellous - very possibly the best hotel we have ever stayed in. Boutique, welcoming, incredibly welcoming and stylish decor, and outstanding service with a superlative restaurant on site. Highly highly recommended.
TRAVEL MEANS
Car & Bike
Driving from Yorkshire to Pembrokeshire, with an overnight rest-stop in Snowdonia on the way down. About 6 hours each way.
Mountain Bike for activities whilst there.
SCHEDULE
DAY 1 - Wednesday
Drove Leeds to Coed y Brenin Trail Centre for a half-day mountain biking
Overnight in George III Pub with Rooms
DAY 2 - Thursday
Drove along the Coastal Way from Snowdonia to Narberth
Rest stop in Cardigan at Crwst: very enjoyable visit to this fantastic spot for breakfast, brunch or coffee. Open, industrial, proper bakery - top notch
Walk: Pentre Ifan walking circular - 6.85km
Check-in & Dinner at Grove of Narberth
DAY 3 - Friday
Bike ride: Local route out from Grove of Narberth
Visit St Davids: holder of the title “smallest city in the United Kingdom by population and urban area.” This place is truly teensy, more like a village
Fish & Chip dinner: The Shed, Porthgain. You would never happen upon this place - beautifully positioned at the mouth of a tiny inlet that would once have been a fishing community. Informal, local, buzzing. Recommended
DAY 4 - Saturday
Bike ride: red route at Llys-y-frân reservoir
Dinner: Fernery Restaurant at Grove of Narberth, holder of 4 AA Rosettes. Absolutely outstanding from start to finish.
DAY 5 - Sunday
Drove home
Back-up plans for rainy days
Pembroke Castle (open 10am to 4pm during winter)
National Trust Tudor Merchant's House in Tenby
See the Last Invasion Tapestry at Fishguard Library
See an art exhibition at Oriel Y Parc Landscape Gallery & Visitor Centre
Plans for another trip
Bwlch Nant yr Arian Forest Visitor Centre (touted as one of the most beautiful trail centres in Wales, with a Red Kite feeding centre on site)
Other Countryside Itineraries
Norfolk - Summer riding
Itinerary for a short weekend cycling break near the North Norfolk Coast.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Holt and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in mid-August
Highlights include a boutique hotel stay, long road ride around North Norfolk, and fish and chips at the seaside
Based on a couple travelling
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Outstanding.
I would hear people announce how flat Norfolk, and while that might be true, before I visited, it led me to believe flat meant boring - not so. The landscape, the villages, the gardens………it felt like a view was peeking out around every corner and it was oh, so, quiet.
A spectacular introduction to Norfolk, leaving us eager for more.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Yes….and no, in that we could easily have stayed longer (there is enough to do), and this was quite a long drive for just 2 nights. A cycling weekend is perfectly perfectly suited for Norfolk though; a framework I would look to replicate again.
Would I make another visit?
Definitely; even this same area around Holt would warrant another trip for us.
WHEN
August
We got spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.
Can be changeable.
TRAVEL MEANS
Car + Road bike
Drive from Leeds takes about 4 hours
ACCOMMODATION
The Harper, Hotel
boutique, luxury
intimate
fantastic restaurant
impeccable, yet thoroughly modern service
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the morning, settle in
Dinner: At The Harper
Day 2 - Saturday
Ride: Long road-ride loop around Holt, 73km (gpx download here)
Coffee & Cake Stop: Heydon Village Tea Rooms - absolutely delightful, in a pictureque village setting
Fish & Chip Supper at the Seaside: French’s, Wells-next-the-Sea - be prepared for a very, very long queue!
Day 3 - Sunday
Spa & Sauna morning: The Harper allows you to pre-book the pool, hot tub and sauna on an exclusive use basis for 30-minute sessions
Breakfast at the hotel
Drive home
Ideas for another trip
-
Visit Sandringham during the winter, for its annual light trail ‘Luminate Sandringham’
Tour The Boards National Park on a bike - 125 miles of navigable waterways – more than Amsterdam or Venice. The Broads was originally dug out in medieval times to provide peat for fuel. In the 14th century, these peat diggings flooded, creating the beautiful waterways we see today.
Visit Norwich - best-preserved medieval city in England (the Industrial Revolution left it unscathed because of a lack of fast-running water), largest permanent covered market in Europe, only city within a British National Park, hosts Europe’s best-protected chalk river and it was England’s first City of Literature.
Visit Norwich Castle Museum (undergoing a major renovation project, set to re-open 2025)
See a show at Cromer’s end-of-pier theatre
See Grey seal pups at Blakeney Point during the winter, when the mums come ashore to have their young
See red deer on the Holkham Estate in the winter
-
Stay at The Victoria Hotel on the Holkham Estate (accepts dogs)
Stay at The Wiveton Bell (accepts dogs)
-
Dine at Meadowsweet in Holt
Other Itineraries for Exploring with Bikes
Summer walking on the Suffolk Coast
My itinerary journal for a short weekend walking break on the Suffolk Coast, to catchup with a dear friend.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Walberswick and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in mid-July
Highlights include a walk around the Suffolk & Essex Coast & Heaths National Landscape starting in Walberswick
Based on a pair of friends travelling, for a short catch-up trip
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Suffolk is perhaps unseen, as a holiday destination. It doesn’t have the Royal connection as Norfolk does, and for those of us in the North, it’s just that bit further away.
It is though, worth the trip. It is worth it for the quiet, for the history, and for the golden sandy coast.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely. This is a short shot-in-the-arm kind of trip, like an extended day out with a pal, with the walk offering great opportunity for a long catch up and some gentle exercise combined. I think it would work equally well for a biking stay, especially since the Suffolk countryside is flat without being boring.
Also, staying in a guesthouse, with the benefit of a breakfast, made a 2 night stay very easy indeed.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit Suffolk again, though would focus on another area.
WHEN
Mid July
Spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.
LIGHT & WEATHER
Long days, likely warm (may be hot)
Sunrise: 04:36am to 5:13am
Sunset: 21:18pm to 20:46pm
17 hours of daylight
ACCOMMODATION
Corner Farm, Guesthouse
luxury and modern
well suited for a pair of friends
fantastic breakfast, with the best granola I have ever had (the owner kindly provided the recipe!)
absolutely silent
TRAVEL MEANS
Car
Drive from Leeds takes about 4 hours
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the afternoon, collect groceries and settle in
Dinner: BBQ at our guesthouse
Day 2 - Saturday
Walk: Long walking loop around Walberswick, 13km (gpx download here)
Dinner: The Anchor, Walberswick - friendly, relaxed, casual
Day 3 - Sunday
Breakfast at the guesthouse
Drive home
Ideas for another trip
Dine or event at Suffolk Food Hall, Ipswich
Visit Kentwell Hall, one of the finest moated Tudor Houses in England and regular scene for history re-creation events
Bike ride around Suffolks’ Wool Towns - Lanvenham, Clare, Kersey, Long Melford
Visit Woodbridge on the River Deben
Other July Itineraries
Guernsey in Spring - walking on a tiny island
My planned itinerary for spending 4 springtime days in Guernsey, Channel Islands. Days spent walking and picnicking, nights spent in a treehouse hotel.
Why Guernsey?
The Bailiwick of Guernsey is technically a collection of islands that includes the island of Guernsey plus nearby islands of Sark, Alderney, Jethou, Brecqhou and Herm.
Guernsey itself is a very very small island - just 65 sq. km. Comparing this to other islands: it is 7 times smaller than Ibiza, and 6 times smaller than Barbados. Comparing it to an English county: Cornwall is 55 times larger than Guernsey. Comparing this to cities in the UK, it is about the same size as Derby; a very very small British city indeed. Apparently, walking around the entirety of the Guernsey Coastal path is 64km which can be done at a very leisurely pace over the course of 4 days. So that sizes the prize a little.
Aside from its diminuitiveness, Guernsey is known for dramatic coastlines, lots of beaches, being a tax haven, being occupied by the Nazis during the Second World War and also being the home of Victor Hugo when in exile from France. The culture is neither British nor French, and both at the same time.
The attraction of Guernsey for the traveller is a little escapism, activities on the water and some easygoing outdoor activity like walking or leisure cycling to take in the sea views, pretty coves and fortress remnants. You come here to slow down, relax and experience island life.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Guernsey, part of the Channel Islands, off the south coast of England
Based on either flying in and out of Guernsey from Leeds, or East Midlands
Highlights include alfresco dining on English-French fusion fare, walking parts of the Coastal Path, a day trip out to Jersey to visit the War Tunnels and hiking with a picnic
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and hiking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
April or May
Typically dry with long daylight hours and mild pleasant weather
ACCOMMODATION
Being such a tiny island, and a popular one, accommodation choices are somewhat limited and what there is books up very very quickly. This needs to be booked very well ahead of time.
In order of preference for me:
Fermain Valley Hotel Treehouses (they have a yoga space in this hotel)
The Farmhouse Hotel and Restaurant
Fermain Tower **While very cool, this is also located in a small car park, so not quite the prettiest outdoor space. This is incredibly popular, easily with a year-long list of bookings already scheduled.
TRAVEL MEANS
Fly direct from Leeds to Guernsey or direct from East Midlands to Guernsey with Aurigny
The flight schedule is more restrictive from Leeds Bradford, with flights only on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays, whereas flights from East Midlands are 4 times a week.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Arrive; settle in.
Day 2
Breakfast: Rooftop Cafe at Creasey’s, in St Peter Port
Hike with a Picnic: Take one of these harder hiking routes
Day 3
Hike: Take one of these routes
Dinner: Book at hotel gastropub Les Douvres, in St Martin’s - dinner and live music (Friday nights only)
Day 4
Day trip to Jersey: Take the foot ferry, have breakfast in St Helier at La Bouche in Central Market
Jersey War Tunnels: Book a ticket for an understanding of the island under German Occupation, the only part of the British Isles occupied during World War II
Day 5
Breakfast
Travel home: try to arrange return travel to leave in the morning
Other UK-based Itineraries
Donostia–San Sebastián - a Spring itinerary for fashion and food
Balenciaga, pintxos and bar crawls. My itinerary journal for a long rainy weekend spent in San Sebastian, Basque Country, with a friend.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Donostia–San Sebastián and surrounds, based on flying from Manchester, in May
Highlights include pintxos food tour, dance theatre performance, the Balenciaga museum in Getaria and dinner at 1 Michelin star restaurant, Alameda.
Based on a two friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does it live up to hype or expectations?
I would say I did have high expectations. There is a lot of hype around Donostia–San Sebastián. A major resort city and formerly the summer residence of the Spanish royal court; to say that this is a place under the radar would be false.
Luckily though, it hasn’t succumbed to too much tourism and maintains an authenticity, with a resident population who genuinely live and work here. We could tell that we were eating in pintxos bars alongside locals. The tours we took were thoughtful and warm, and the food was simply outstanding - again, in line with expectations of this being a ‘foodie’ destination.
From start to finish, the city is thoroughly recommended.
One area that did disappoint though, was the hotel. Basic, shabby, and trading off the view - not a place I would recommend.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
Perfectly.
4 nights is a great way to enjoy San Sebastian, with plenty of time for wandering and pintxos. Having a mixture of pre-booked cultural activities with time to just wander makes the most of a long weekend. The car allowed us to make trips to places closeby to give us more options.
I would recommend staying in the city centre though (rather than on the outskirts as we did) and note that we had a lot of rain when we visited in May. It may not be immediately obvious that Spain might be quite wet, but this part of Northern Spain is so, and it did rather put a ‘dampener’ on the trip, so to speak. Perhaps better to visit summer or autumn for a chance at better weather.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit the Basque Country again, though, I feel I have now seen enough of San Sebastián. My next trip to the Basque Country would be either as part of a tour of all the Northern Spanish regions, or as a tour across the Greater Basque Region including France and the Pyrenees.
WHEN
May
LIGHT & WEATHER
Moderate daylight. Wet. Cool. Overcast.
Sunrise: 07:01am - 06:31am
Sunset: 21:10pm - 21:41pm
17 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Flight & Car hire
Fly Manchester into Bilbao (BIO), which is about 100km or 1 hr driving from San Sebastian
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Fly in the morning, collect car, arrive and settle in
Day 2
Tour: Pintxos Lunch Tour with San Sebastian Food
Evening show: dance performance at the Victoria Eugenia Theatre
Day 3
Breakfast: found somewhere in the city - plenty of delicious coffee and cake places
Museum: Drove to Getaria to visit Museo Cristóbal Balenciaga (the Balenciaga museum), about 25km, 30 mins driving. Worth it.
Dinner: Pintxos bar crawl through the city
Day 4
Relax: breakfast, spend the morning chilling out
Wander the city: Small and compact, with a city beach - spent an hour or two wandering and soaking up the atmosphere
Dinner: at 1 Michelin Star Alameda - absolutely superb. Advance booking essential
Day 5
Travel home
Ideas for another visit
Take in San Sebastian as part of a tour of the Greater Basque Region, including Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Biarritz, Bilbao and the Pyrenees.
Visit Añana Salt Valley in Álava province. Visitors can take guided tours to find out about the traditional salt-making process and enjoy halotherapy treatments in the salt foot baths.
Take bike rides to see megalithic monument Sorginetxe, "House of Witches" , in Arrizala, Agurain, Cromlech Mendiluze and Dolmen de la Chabola de la Hechicera
Take in San Sebastian as part of a tour of all four of Spain’s northern coastal regions - Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia
Sewing projects for a Spring itinerary
Krakow - learning Polish in Winter
My itinerary journal for 9 frigid nights spent in Krakow learning Polish, in January. Heavy snow and hard pronunciation…..also excellent pierogi and a delightful surrealist art find.
Why Krakow?
Krakow is perhaps the jewel in Poland’s touristic crown. It is a former capital of Poland, famed in particular for it’s architecture that miraculously escaped destruction in World War II, with that classic ‘chocolate box’ cuteness of Central European cities.
I have it in my head that Poland is the up-and-coming cool place to be. I am convinced this country has everything to offer the savvy traveller who likes to be off-the-beaten track but not out-in-the-wilderness. I think its got all the same draws as more well-known destinations like France, Croatia or Italy - great accommodation options, interesting cities which combine culture, history and modernity, pronounced seasons, and varied landscapes including coast, forests, lake districts, rolling greenery and mountains. The only lack seems to be beaches for sunbathing (I know many would argue there is the northern Baltic coast, but Baltic beaches aren’t known for their sunbathing potential). It is very easy to get to from the UK, with many flight options to Poland’s cities. To top it off nicely, the prices are much cheaper than should be expected elsewhere in Western Europe.
The trickiest thing for most is probably the language barrier…………and I love to learn languages and give myself new challenges so I thought, “hey, why not learn some Polish?!” So that’s what this trip was about - a one-week intensive beginners Polish course in Krakow.
Itinerary At A Glance
9 night language learning independent itinerary for Krakow in southern Poland
Travelling in January - specifically to see the city at its winteriest, and better experience the warming effects of Polish vodka.
Based on flying in and out of Krakow from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam
Highlights include an intensive Polish language course, pierogi-making workshop, Jewish history walk and the Unesco Salt Mines.
Based on a solo traveller, with a focus on immersive language learning, some leisurely cultural activities and tours suitable for travelling alone, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.
Honest verdict
Did the place live up to hype or expectations?
Krakow has a reputation for being pretty, and it was definitely pretty, though not quite as pretty as Tallinn for my money. There is plenty to do though I did find it on the brink of being a bit too touristy.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
9 nights was way too much for a city of this size, and only worked because I was attending a language course. Krakow can easily be enjoyed in 2 to 3 nights; it is small enough even for a 24 hour stopover.
Winter was harsh, very harsh, -12C on a few of the days and hardly ever above freezing. This made it uncomfortably bitter and hard to enjoy any activity that involved being outside, even just wandering around. I think without the comforts of a cosy home, friends and family to enjoy the indoors with, it wasn’t super pleasant being there in the height of winter for me. A better itinerary would be for the milder months.
Would I make another visit? Would I recommend it?
Now that I have been, I would say Poland is definitely worth visiting……….but not in the winter.
I can’t see myself returning to Krakow, though would definitely return to Poland but only in the spring or summer.
WHEN
January
January is, on average, the coldest month with the highest likelihood for snow, so I made the itinerary with this in mind, focusing on indoor activities and those which can be done come rain, snow or shine.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds, changing in Amsterdam
ACCOMMODATION
Fantastic apartment, very neat, modern and well-located, just 15 mins walk from the Main Square and 10 from the main train station. I found the desk and monitor a useful addition to my stay, so a small detail that could be helpful for business travellers or remote workers.
Anna Guntner, Polish surrealist painter
ACTIVITIES
One-week Polish language intensive course with Together School - note I chose to shorten their two-week offering
Anna Guntner exhibition - mid-century Polish surrealist painter at Nowa Huta Cultural Centre
City food tour - with AirBnB experiences. This was marvellous
Tour of Unesco World Heritage Site of Wieliczka Salt mine with Krakow Explorers
Took a luxury lunch and spa experience at The Copernicus Spa by L’Occitane in the historic Gothic cellars of the Copernicus Hotel
Jewish History walk - interesting and of course, poignant
Learnt to make traditional pierogi ruskie on this very personal AirBnB experience with Olga - this was fantastic
ABOUT KRAKOW’S NEIGHBOURHOODS
The main neighbourhoods for tourist activity are as follows:
Stare Miasto - the heart and centre, the Old Town. The most central district, the financial, commercial and cultural centre of the city with the tallest buildings, the most important museums, galleries, restaurants, and theatres. It is shaped almost like a lightbulb, with Planty Park encircling pretty much the entirety of its border
Kazimierz - just south of Stare Miasto, the funky, alternative and bohemian district, and the old Jewish Quarter
Podógrze - South again of Kazimierz, and across the Vistula river, another district vying for the title of funkiest and most up-and-coming. This one has that industrial warehouse regeneration vibe about it
Kleparz - just north of the Stare Miasto, mostly upscale residential, this is where tourists can see and experience life lived as a wealthy Cracovian
Ideas for another visit
Bike routes throughout Poland can be found here
For a more bike-concentrated trip, bike maps can be purchased here from Compass (though note they are only in Polish)
Plan Poland is a holiday company specialising in tailor-made holidays in Poland and they have the most fantastic blog with a wide variety of information about the whole country, including specifics about where to go biking, kayaking and the different cities - should I decide to take a summer biking trip, I will almost certainly approach these guys for an itinerary
Hotel Galery69 Design Hotel in the Masuria Lake District
Attend a 4-day haute couture sewing course at KSA (Kracow School of Art & Fashion Design)
Animal-tracking in the Białowieża Forest with Wild Poland
Schindler’s Factory - As immortalised in the film Schindler’s List, Oskar Schindler managed to save many Jews through his enamel factory, that he had converted to make ammunition and mess kits to ensure the Germans would not be suspicious of his activities. Schindler's Factory now houses a museum about Kraków under Nazi occupation alongside a contemporary Polish art museum, MOCAK, which exhibits national and international artists.
Eats for Winter
