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Travel, Summer, USA Frances Lawrence Travel, Summer, USA Frances Lawrence

Harbours to Highlands. A New England road trip itinerary for Summer

A summer touring holiday through New England - Maine, Vermont a Boston.

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 16 night independent touring itinerary for Massachussetts, Maine and Vermont, taking a circular route, starting and finishing in Boston

  • Based on flying into Boston, and hiring a car for the entirety of the trip

  • Highlights include cycling the pine forests of Maine, a boat trip out of Boothbay Harbour, burnt ends at Bluebird BBQ, Saturday Farmers Market in Burlington, SUP yoga on Lake Champlain, MTB riding all over the Green Mountain State, Boston Walking Tour and seeing the Red Sox vs The Yankees play at traditional Fenway Park

  • Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere


Honest verdict

Does the place live up to hype or expectations?

Maine is a long-time holiday destination for domestic tourists though most British people visit New England for the autumn colours, or ‘leaf peeper’ tourists as they are affectionately known locally. We bucked this trend and headed there in high summer, hence, we went without too much expectation.

What we found was green, grand and glorious. Maine smells of pine trees, Lake Champlain is breathtakingly beautiful, and Boston is just hip enough without taking itself too too seriously. Maine in particular is a sailor’s paradise (I’m imagining here - I’m no sailor), with endless islands, coves and inlets to explore but we also found it a delight to explore land on two wheels. Vermont is a superb spot for two-wheeled activities of all stripes. All in all, a recommended spot for a summer visit.

Did the itinerary work for the trip?

Almost perfectly.

  • 7 nights in Maine was a little too long for us; the location is better suited to folks who like to spend their time on the water - sailing, fishing, kayaking - none of which we do. 4 nights in Maine probably would have worked better for us.

  • 7 nights in Burlington for us was also perfect - plenty of time to really get to know this active city and a lot of MTB options.

  • 3 nights in Boston is ideal.

Drive time between destinations was perfect. Travelling in the car this way, we got to see parts of New Hampshire that we may never visit if it meant making a dedicated holiday there.

Would I make another visit?

Certainly to Vermont, and could even see us returning to spend more time in Burlington itself. The entire Lake Champlain region makes a fantastic destination for biking, whether road or MTB.

I feel I have now seen enough of both Maine and Boston to not return, though I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend either.


WHEN

August

Very warm and sunny was what we experienced for the majority of the trip, with the odd cloudy or rainy few hours.

Typically warm to hot, with rain.


LIGHT

Long days

Sunrise: 05:40am to 06:43am

Sunset: 20:18pm to 19:31pm

13-14 hours of daylight


TRAVEL MEANS

Fly from Manchester to Boston, drive between locations, fly back out from Boston

We obviously took our car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as hiring bikes in both Maine and Vermont


ROUTE & STOPS

Drive 1,028 km, 11 hours 45 mins, over 16 days

  • Drive Yorkshire to Manchester; Fly into Boston

  • Drive from Boston to Boothbay Harbour (2h 40m drive) for a 7 night stay

  • Drive from Boothbay Harbour to Burlington (5h drive) for a 7 night stay; drive through New Hampshire’s White Mountains along the way

  • Drive from Burlington to Boston (3h 45m drive) for a 3 night stay

  • Fly Boston to Manchester; drive back to Yorkshire


ACCOMMODATION

Boothbay Harbour

Apartment called ‘Boothbay Harbour Cottage Apartment’ (no longer operating)

Lovely. About a 10 minute stroll from centre of Boothbay Harbour village, and a bakery-cafe just round the corner. Small outdoor space too for reading and relaxing on the warm summer evenings, a place where we regularly did and saw hummingbirds to boot.

Burlington

This carriage house studio apartment

Idyllic. Large studio apartment, kitchenette, private terrace overlooking the mature and immaculate garden, ample space for two (despite only being a studio), parking, located in quick and easy access to both central Burlington and Lake Champlain (each about 15 minutes’ walk). Recommended.

Boston

Apartment called ‘Boston Christopher’ (no longer operating)

Not recommended. Devoid of atmosphere, strange, looking at a brick wall.


SCHEDULE

Day 1 - Fly to Boston; Drive Boston to Boothbay Harbour

About 9-10 hours flying; About 420km, 2hrs 40m driving


Boothbay Harbour - Day 1 to 7

Had several breakfast waffles at Mama D’s - with a porch terrace, rocking chair and clapboard exterior, this felt like quintessential New England to me. Good coffee and friendly service, located just outside Boothbay Harbour town, so full of locals for an authentic experience.

Cycled around Southport Island

Visited Maine Lobster Festival in Rockland. Got ‘lobster takeaway’ and watched the locals partake in mad games on the water a la Takeshi’s Castle

Went out on a sailboat with a local guide

Had plenty of blueberry soda - a taste of Maine for us


Day 8 - Drive between Boothbay Harbour and Burlington

Stopped in Jackson, New Hampshire for lunch and a leg stretch. Sought out the covered bridges of New Hampshire along the way.

About 420km, 5hrs driving


Day 8 to 14 - Burlington, Vermont

Had several bakery breakfasts at August First cafe

Cycled into the Island Line Trail into Lake Champlain - 45km loop follows Burlington’s waterfront via the Burlington Greenway and heads out on the beautiful Colchester Causeway three miles into the middle of the lake.

Rode the MTB trails at Cady Hill near Stowe - well worth a visit.

Rode the MTB trails at Saxon Hill, just outside of Burlington - flowy singletrack with boardwalks - recommended

Burlington Farmer’s Market comes to town on Saturday morning and offers a fantastic mix of ready-to-eat treats and tasty ingredients to take home and cook with. We had THE most delicious sour cherry bagel with a cream cheese dip, noshed in the square with the sounds of a guitarist strumming for the pleasure of the market crowd. Delightful.

Dined at Bluebird BBQ, in Burlington, for classic american barbecue, burnt ends and Vermont beer. Recommended.

Did some SUP yoga on Lake Champlain


Day 14 - Drive between Burlington and Boston

About 348km, 3hr 20mins driving


Day 14 to 16 - Boston

Booked tickets for Boston Red Sox vs. NY Yankees at Fenway Park - for me, one of the highlights of the trip, since we didn’t plan this! These two are ancient rivals - we couldn’t have been more lucky to have them be playing each other on the Saturday we were in Boston. A great experience, even for those uninitiated in the game of baseball. Great atmosphere and wonderful memory.

Visited the Patriots Hall of Fame

Took a Walking Tour with Boston by Foot - excellent. Informative and fun.

Had all-American sandwiches at Sam La Grassa in downtown Boston


Day 17 - Fly Boston to Manchester

About 9-10 hours


Sewing projects for a Summer itinerary

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Travel, Autumn, North America, USA Frances Lawrence Travel, Autumn, North America, USA Frances Lawrence

An itinerary for Santa Fe - atomic bomb history, mountain biking and art

10 nights in New Mexico combining art, activity and history.

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 10 night independent itinerary for New Mexico in the central Southwest of the USA

  • Based on travelling Leeds to Santa Fe with a hop in Amsterdam and Atlanta. Car will also be essential to move between locations

  • Highlights include visiting the Manhattan Project Trinity Site where the atomic bomb was tested and the town where it was developed, hikes around the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, mountain biking around Santa Fe and ancient glyphs and rock art from around 1500AD

  • Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere


Why here?

Like so much of my travel planning, this started with an offhand comment from a friend - she said New Mexico was the most surprisingly beautiful stop on her west-to-east US road trip. That was enough to spark my interest.

Santa Fe stood out quickly. Its history is layered: once home to Indigenous Pueblo peoples, later ruled by the Spanish Crown, then part of Mexico, and eventually ceded to the USA after the Mexican-American War. That mix of influences shows up everywhere — in the food, the architecture, the art — and gives the city a distinct cultural flavour.

Today, Santa Fe is the highest capital city in the US, known for its celebration of Pueblo heritage, its thriving arts scene, and its access to outdoor pursuits. Add to that New Mexico’s links to atomic history and space exploration — both of interest to my boyfriend — and it felt like a destination with real depth.



WHEN

October

It would work equally well for Spring - April - both with pleasantly warm days and cool evenings.

Importantly, the Trinity Site (where the first atomic bomb was detonated) is only open for visitors on the first Saturday of April or October; this will be a crucial part of our trip and so I would design the itinerary around being able to visit this.

Conversely to the UK weather, summer is the wettest season as well as being swelteringly hot and humid. I would avoid visiting at this time of year


TRAVEL MEANS

With KLM, Leeds LBA to Albuquerque ABQ, with stops in Amsterdam and Atlanta

Car hire will be essential for the duration of the trip in Santa Fe


ACCOMMODATION

 

ACTIVITIES

Visit the Trinity Site

The whole reason for the trip, the Trinity Site (where the first atomic bomb was detonated) is open for visitors just twice a year - on the first Saturday of April or October. There is a coach tour departing from the Space Hall of Fame, which includes transport, snacks and entry to the museum afterwards.

 

Visit Los Alamos

Take a day trip to Los Alamos to learn more about its important role in the development of the atomic bomb with this self-guided walking tour of the town and visit the Bradbury Science Museum, with its atomic bomb replicas and interactive exhibits of the World War II Manhattan Project (40 mins drive each way from Santa Fe)

 

Hike Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument

About 40 miles south of Santa Fe, lies the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument* where visitors can hike the site to take in the unusual rock formations.

*potential misinterpretation alert: in the USA, ‘National Monuments’ are nationally significant lands and waters set aside for permanent protection which is unlike how we use the word ‘monument’ in the UK, which usually refers to a building or structure, that is of historical importance or interest.

 

Book to see a performance at the Santa Fe Opera house

A unique outdoor high-calibre performance venue with views of the Sangre de Cristo foothills and the Jemez Mountains is only open during the summer, and the programming is focused on the art of opera

Book a ride on the Cumbres & Toltec railway

A narrow-gauge heritage railroad that operates on 64 miles of track between Antonito, Colorado, and Chama, New Mexico, through some of the most spectacular scenery in the Rocky Mountain West

 

WHERE TO WANDER

  • There are quite a few mountain biking options close by to Santa Fe - info here and here - we will probably spend at least 3 days biking

  • Contemplate some contemporary art at SITE Santa Fe

  • Visit Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian

  • Visit the only museum in the world focused on wax - It’s a broader medium than you might think - from the use of ancient beeswax to the modern crayon, wax can be scuplted, painted with, drawn with and even used as a surface to receive transfer from photography. The Museum of Encaustic Art in Cerillos, just outside of Santa Fe, has the largest, most extensive, and best represented encaustic art collection in America.

  • Enjoy a spa day at the thermal springs of Ojo Santa Fe Spa

  • Stroll along Canyon Road in downtown Santa Fe - 1.5 kilometers long, the strip packs in over 100 galleries and boutiques. It’s considered to be one of the most concentrated street of art galleries in the world.

  • Visit La Cieneguilla Petroglyph site for a 2 mile hike to see ancient glyphs of birds, animals, fish, insects, plants, and humans as well as geometric and abstract designs, likely created by the between 1200 and 1600 AD

  • Take a day trip to Taos via the High Road and the Low Road - round trip of approximately 165 miles


Other North America Itineraries

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