Harbours to Highlands. A New England road trip itinerary for Summer
A summer touring holiday through New England - Maine, Vermont a Boston.
Itinerary At A Glance
16 night independent touring itinerary for Massachussetts, Maine and Vermont, taking a circular route, starting and finishing in Boston
Based on flying into Boston, and hiring a car for the entirety of the trip
Highlights include cycling the pine forests of Maine, a boat trip out of Boothbay Harbour, burnt ends at Bluebird BBQ, Saturday Farmers Market in Burlington, SUP yoga on Lake Champlain, MTB riding all over the Green Mountain State, Boston Walking Tour and seeing the Red Sox vs The Yankees play at traditional Fenway Park
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Maine is a long-time holiday destination for domestic tourists though most British people visit New England for the autumn colours, or ‘leaf peeper’ tourists as they are affectionately known locally. We bucked this trend and headed there in high summer, hence, we went without too much expectation.
What we found was green, grand and glorious. Maine smells of pine trees, Lake Champlain is breathtakingly beautiful, and Boston is just hip enough without taking itself too too seriously. Maine in particular is a sailor’s paradise (I’m imagining here - I’m no sailor), with endless islands, coves and inlets to explore but we also found it a delight to explore land on two wheels. Vermont is a superb spot for two-wheeled activities of all stripes. All in all, a recommended spot for a summer visit.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Almost perfectly.
7 nights in Maine was a little too long for us; the location is better suited to folks who like to spend their time on the water - sailing, fishing, kayaking - none of which we do. 4 nights in Maine probably would have worked better for us.
7 nights in Burlington for us was also perfect - plenty of time to really get to know this active city and a lot of MTB options.
3 nights in Boston is ideal.
Drive time between destinations was perfect. Travelling in the car this way, we got to see parts of New Hampshire that we may never visit if it meant making a dedicated holiday there.
Would I make another visit?
Certainly to Vermont, and could even see us returning to spend more time in Burlington itself. The entire Lake Champlain region makes a fantastic destination for biking, whether road or MTB.
I feel I have now seen enough of both Maine and Boston to not return, though I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend either.
WHEN
August
Very warm and sunny was what we experienced for the majority of the trip, with the odd cloudy or rainy few hours.
Typically warm to hot, with rain.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 05:40am to 06:43am
Sunset: 20:18pm to 19:31pm
13-14 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Fly from Manchester to Boston, drive between locations, fly back out from Boston
We obviously took our car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as hiring bikes in both Maine and Vermont
ROUTE & STOPS
Drive 1,028 km, 11 hours 45 mins, over 16 days
Drive Yorkshire to Manchester; Fly into Boston
Drive from Boston to Boothbay Harbour (2h 40m drive) for a 7 night stay
Drive from Boothbay Harbour to Burlington (5h drive) for a 7 night stay; drive through New Hampshire’s White Mountains along the way
Drive from Burlington to Boston (3h 45m drive) for a 3 night stay
Fly Boston to Manchester; drive back to Yorkshire
ACCOMMODATION
Boothbay Harbour
Apartment called ‘Boothbay Harbour Cottage Apartment’ (no longer operating)
Lovely. About a 10 minute stroll from centre of Boothbay Harbour village, and a bakery-cafe just round the corner. Small outdoor space too for reading and relaxing on the warm summer evenings, a place where we regularly did and saw hummingbirds to boot.
Burlington
This carriage house studio apartment
Idyllic. Large studio apartment, kitchenette, private terrace overlooking the mature and immaculate garden, ample space for two (despite only being a studio), parking, located in quick and easy access to both central Burlington and Lake Champlain (each about 15 minutes’ walk). Recommended.
Boston
Apartment called ‘Boston Christopher’ (no longer operating)
Not recommended. Devoid of atmosphere, strange, looking at a brick wall.
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Fly to Boston; Drive Boston to Boothbay Harbour
About 9-10 hours flying; About 420km, 2hrs 40m driving
Boothbay Harbour - Day 1 to 7
Had several breakfast waffles at Mama D’s - with a porch terrace, rocking chair and clapboard exterior, this felt like quintessential New England to me. Good coffee and friendly service, located just outside Boothbay Harbour town, so full of locals for an authentic experience.
Cycled around Southport Island
Visited Maine Lobster Festival in Rockland. Got ‘lobster takeaway’ and watched the locals partake in mad games on the water a la Takeshi’s Castle
Went out on a sailboat with a local guide
Had plenty of blueberry soda - a taste of Maine for us
Day 8 - Drive between Boothbay Harbour and Burlington
Stopped in Jackson, New Hampshire for lunch and a leg stretch. Sought out the covered bridges of New Hampshire along the way.
About 420km, 5hrs driving
Day 8 to 14 - Burlington, Vermont
Had several bakery breakfasts at August First cafe
Cycled into the Island Line Trail into Lake Champlain - 45km loop follows Burlington’s waterfront via the Burlington Greenway and heads out on the beautiful Colchester Causeway three miles into the middle of the lake.
Rode the MTB trails at Cady Hill near Stowe - well worth a visit.
Rode the MTB trails at Saxon Hill, just outside of Burlington - flowy singletrack with boardwalks - recommended
Burlington Farmer’s Market comes to town on Saturday morning and offers a fantastic mix of ready-to-eat treats and tasty ingredients to take home and cook with. We had THE most delicious sour cherry bagel with a cream cheese dip, noshed in the square with the sounds of a guitarist strumming for the pleasure of the market crowd. Delightful.
Dined at Bluebird BBQ, in Burlington, for classic american barbecue, burnt ends and Vermont beer. Recommended.
Did some SUP yoga on Lake Champlain
Day 14 - Drive between Burlington and Boston
About 348km, 3hr 20mins driving
Day 14 to 16 - Boston
Booked tickets for Boston Red Sox vs. NY Yankees at Fenway Park - for me, one of the highlights of the trip, since we didn’t plan this! These two are ancient rivals - we couldn’t have been more lucky to have them be playing each other on the Saturday we were in Boston. A great experience, even for those uninitiated in the game of baseball. Great atmosphere and wonderful memory.
Visited the Patriots Hall of Fame
Took a Walking Tour with Boston by Foot - excellent. Informative and fun.
Had all-American sandwiches at Sam La Grassa in downtown Boston
Day 17 - Fly Boston to Manchester
About 9-10 hours
Sewing projects for a Summer itinerary
North Carolina - mountain biking, NFL and city break in Autumn
Travelling in early autumn, my itinerary for 10-14 nights in North Carolina. Biking, ball, art trails and barbecue…..all in the one place.
Itinerary At A Glance
10-14 night independent itinerary for North Carolina in the Central East of the USA: 3-4 nights in Charlotte, and 7-10 nights in Asheville on the edge of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
Based on flying in and out of Charlotte from Manchester with hops either in Munich, JFK or London. Car will also be essential to move between locations, as well as mountain bike hire in Asheville
Highlights include biking the Great Smoky Mountains, NASCAR, authentic BBQ, perhaps some live NFL and plenty ‘o’ beer
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
A friend ‘accidentally’ spent a day in Asheville on a US road trip and said it was the best stop of the whole two-week holiday — she wished they’d based themselves there. That offhand comment stuck, and kicked off my research.
In mountain biking circles, North Carolina’s gaining a reputation for world-class trails that fly under the radar. My boyfriend loves fast, technical riding, and I don’t mind a bit of singletrack challenge myself — so it looked like a solid fit for both of us. Add in the cultural side: breweries, art trails, city yoga, and maybe even a Nascar or NFL game if the timing works. It started to look like a place with range.
I’ve planned a twin-centre trip: Charlotte for a classic city break with Southern food, urban cycling, and a bit of American sports history; then west to Asheville, on the edge of the Great Smoky Mountains, for a longer stay that blends city buzz with outdoor adventure.
I’ve skipped the North Carolina coast — refinement has taught me I’m not a beach person.
WHEN
Autumn - October or November.
Conversely to the UK weather, October and November are historically two of the driest months of the year, and this time of year will see pleasantly warm days, cool evenings plus the beautiful colour change of autumn leaves. It would be lovely to get away from the UK at this time also - in my opinion, autumn is the worst season for weather in the UK.
Summer is swelteringly hot, humid and the rainiest time of year- it is much drier outside of the summer months
Try to time our visit with an NFL home game for the Carolina Panthers
TRAVEL MEANS
Getting to Charlotte will involve stops, almost irrespective of where I fly from.
With Lufthansa, Manchester to Charlotte with a 2hr layover in Munich
With British Airways, Manchester to Charlotte with a 1.5hr layover in London Heathrow
With Aer Lingus, Manchester to Charlotte with a 2hr layover in JFK
NEIGHBOURHOODS & ACCOMMODATION
Asheville neighbourhoods
Montford, north of downtown - heritage buildings, more suburban than touristy downtown
West Asheville - funky, up-and-coming, laid-back vibes and a vintage feel - a hive of activity for the music scene.
River Arts district - Restored, renovated industrial estate, home to cool warehouses and artists from all kinds of industries and niches
Black Mountain - 20-minutes drive east of downtown Asheville, in the shadow of the mountains, gateway to Pisgah National Forest and Mt Mitchell.
Self catering options, in order of preference:
Top-floor quirky and characterful apartment with fantastic views from the deck
Modern Airbnb bungalow with some great outdoor seating
Historic Carolinian home with outdoor veranda
Charlotte neighbourhoods
Uptown - the central business & retail centre
NoDa - the arty alternative area
South End - the cool renovated-industrial area
Myers Park - the greenest and grandest area
Dilworth - the charming and cute historic area
For this trip, and such a short buzzy stay in Charlotte, I’m fancying a hotel, and a good one - one that represents Charlotte’s historic past and modern future. It will have to be either:
SCHEDULE
Charlotte - Day 1 to 4
Day 1
Arrive; settle in & wander the neighbourhood
Day 2
Brunch: book at at The Stanley
Bike hire: Hire a bike and follow one of these self-guided bike routes in and around the city
Visit: the Nascar Hall of Fame
Day 3
Walking tour: Book onto one of these Charlotte tours - on foot, one to learn more about the history of the city
Visit: the Mint Museum for contemporary art, craft and design
Dinner: North Carolina is, after all, part of the ‘South’ and BBQ is important in this part of the world - pick any one of these BBQ locales for dinner
Day 4
Lunch: Enjoy some classic Southern cuisine at The Haberdish
NFL game: Book to see an NFL game at the Bank of America stadium
Day 5 - Drive between Charlotte & Asheville
About 130 miles, 2hr 20mins driving
Asheville & surrounds - Day 5 to 12
One of the main aspects of the stay will be regular mountain biking in the surrounds of Asheville. Options that strike my fancy are:
Pisgah Mountain Bike Adventures specializes in professionally guided trips in Pisgah National Forest and Dupont State Recreation Forest
The Tsali Trails in Nantahala National Forest are a series of mountain biking trails that offer a great combination of challenging but not overly technical trails, spectacular lake-and-mountain views, and convenient access
Big Avery Loop - gruelling 12.9-mile route in Pisgah National Forest. With difficult climbs and breakneck descents, this is not a route for beginners, but experienced mountain bikers will find many thrills here.
Take a day-trip south to Chimney Rock or go east to funky Boone
Asheville Trails offers lots of information on trails in and around the area - including a free self-guided walking tour that explores the city’s history, notable residents, architecture & local art with 30 stop-offs in places of cultural significance.
Namaste in Nature offers mountaintop yoga, waterfall hikes and a Sunset and Full Moon Yoga Hike (full moons March through October) on a scenic mountaintop with guided yoga and meditation.
The Wedge – two locations in the River Arts District it was founded by a metal artist and is adorned with eccentric and delightfully creepy art.
Smoky Park Supper Club, a riverside, casual, lively eatery set in a strategically arranged shipping containers and the kitchen specializes in all sorts of wood-smoked morsels, from char-grilled oysters to wood-fired mussels
Ginger’s Revenge - they serve alcoholic ginger beer that they brew onsite
Make a visit to Funkatorium, Wicked Weed’s industrial-chic taproom. In addition to being one of the most fantastically named beer joints in America, they are devoted exclusively to sour beers
Other Twin-Centre Itineraries
An itinerary for Santa Fe - atomic bomb history, mountain biking and art
10 nights in New Mexico combining art, activity and history.
Itinerary At A Glance
10 night independent itinerary for New Mexico in the central Southwest of the USA
Based on travelling Leeds to Santa Fe with a hop in Amsterdam and Atlanta. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include visiting the Manhattan Project Trinity Site where the atomic bomb was tested and the town where it was developed, hikes around the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, mountain biking around Santa Fe and ancient glyphs and rock art from around 1500AD
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Like so much of my travel planning, this started with an offhand comment from a friend - she said New Mexico was the most surprisingly beautiful stop on her west-to-east US road trip. That was enough to spark my interest.
Santa Fe stood out quickly. Its history is layered: once home to Indigenous Pueblo peoples, later ruled by the Spanish Crown, then part of Mexico, and eventually ceded to the USA after the Mexican-American War. That mix of influences shows up everywhere — in the food, the architecture, the art — and gives the city a distinct cultural flavour.
Today, Santa Fe is the highest capital city in the US, known for its celebration of Pueblo heritage, its thriving arts scene, and its access to outdoor pursuits. Add to that New Mexico’s links to atomic history and space exploration — both of interest to my boyfriend — and it felt like a destination with real depth.
WHEN
October
It would work equally well for Spring - April - both with pleasantly warm days and cool evenings.
Importantly, the Trinity Site (where the first atomic bomb was detonated) is only open for visitors on the first Saturday of April or October; this will be a crucial part of our trip and so I would design the itinerary around being able to visit this.
Conversely to the UK weather, summer is the wettest season as well as being swelteringly hot and humid. I would avoid visiting at this time of year
TRAVEL MEANS
With KLM, Leeds LBA to Albuquerque ABQ, with stops in Amsterdam and Atlanta
Car hire will be essential for the duration of the trip in Santa Fe
ACCOMMODATION
Contemporary, minimal & artful pied-a-terre
Beautifully modern casita minutes from downtown
Clean and modern casita outside of downtown
Gorgeous traditional cottage in central Santa Fe with lovely rock garden
Sauna, hot tub and spectacular views in this traditional casita
Modern bungalow just outside the centre
Stunning cottage with gorgeous gardens
ACTIVITIES
Visit the Trinity Site
The whole reason for the trip, the Trinity Site (where the first atomic bomb was detonated) is open for visitors just twice a year - on the first Saturday of April or October. There is a coach tour departing from the Space Hall of Fame, which includes transport, snacks and entry to the museum afterwards.
Visit Los Alamos
Take a day trip to Los Alamos to learn more about its important role in the development of the atomic bomb with this self-guided walking tour of the town and visit the Bradbury Science Museum, with its atomic bomb replicas and interactive exhibits of the World War II Manhattan Project (40 mins drive each way from Santa Fe)
Hike Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument
About 40 miles south of Santa Fe, lies the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument* where visitors can hike the site to take in the unusual rock formations.
*potential misinterpretation alert: in the USA, ‘National Monuments’ are nationally significant lands and waters set aside for permanent protection which is unlike how we use the word ‘monument’ in the UK, which usually refers to a building or structure, that is of historical importance or interest.
Book to see a performance at the Santa Fe Opera house
A unique outdoor high-calibre performance venue with views of the Sangre de Cristo foothills and the Jemez Mountains is only open during the summer, and the programming is focused on the art of opera
Book a ride on the Cumbres & Toltec railway
A narrow-gauge heritage railroad that operates on 64 miles of track between Antonito, Colorado, and Chama, New Mexico, through some of the most spectacular scenery in the Rocky Mountain West
WHERE TO WANDER
There are quite a few mountain biking options close by to Santa Fe - info here and here - we will probably spend at least 3 days biking
Contemplate some contemporary art at SITE Santa Fe
Visit the only museum in the world focused on wax - It’s a broader medium than you might think - from the use of ancient beeswax to the modern crayon, wax can be scuplted, painted with, drawn with and even used as a surface to receive transfer from photography. The Museum of Encaustic Art in Cerillos, just outside of Santa Fe, has the largest, most extensive, and best represented encaustic art collection in America.
Enjoy a spa day at the thermal springs of Ojo Santa Fe Spa
Stroll along Canyon Road in downtown Santa Fe - 1.5 kilometers long, the strip packs in over 100 galleries and boutiques. It’s considered to be one of the most concentrated street of art galleries in the world.
Visit La Cieneguilla Petroglyph site for a 2 mile hike to see ancient glyphs of birds, animals, fish, insects, plants, and humans as well as geometric and abstract designs, likely created by the between 1200 and 1600 AD
Take a day trip to Taos via the High Road and the Low Road - round trip of approximately 165 miles
Other North America Itineraries
Hanover and The Harz Mountains - a Spring travel plan for mountain biking and city break
Travelling in spring, departing from Leeds, my imagined itinerary for 7 nights of exploring in Lower Saxony.
Why Hanover & The Harz Mountains?
The start of my research into The Harz Mountains was inspired by this article from Culture Trip; I did a bit more digging and found what looks to be a perfect region to explore on a bike.
The main focus of the trip will be the Harz Mountains and I’ve plumbed for one of the most obvious towns as the base - Quedlinburg. This little city is a UNESCO World Heritage site owing to it being the burial site for the first German King, and it was Germany's first capital and an important city during the Middle Ages. Now, it is a well-known tourist destination and is usually the favoured spot for a visit to the region. Looks to be a great base for a bit of biking around the Harz, while also offering up options for historical activities and dining.
Hanover (spelt Hannover in German) is very simply the nearest city and the most obvious airport - so I decided to make it a part of the itinerary. Much of their visitor marketing is geared towards the city as a business destination but reading between the lines, I found more than enough history, culture and uniquely Hanoverian experiences for us to enjoy a few days getting to know this city. The Aldstadt (German for ‘Old Town’) is full of those gorgeous half-timbered structures and it is home to the Eilenriede, Europe's largest municipal forest. It is very bike friendly, both in the city and its surrounds, with hundreds of kilometres of signposted routes and city bike lanes. Its reputation as a business hub also makes it incredibly easily logistics-wise, so superb for the independent traveller. Most unique of all is that the city has an international firework competition each year………weird, and cool. In short, many many reasons for a visit.
I have visited Germany once before - Bavaria and Baden-Wuttemburg - and ever since, I’ve been telling anyone who will listen that the best baked goods are in Germany - not in France, not in Italy - Germany. So add superb cake and daily pretzels to the list of attractions.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 day independent itinerary; 4 nights in Quedlinburg, then 3 nights in Hanover, travelling in Spring - April, May or June.
Based on flying in and out of Hanover from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.
Highlights include a two-wheeled day trip to Marienburg Castle, international firework competition displays, enjoying modern German fine dining in a 2-star Michelin restaurant, understanding more of Germany’s medieval history, and biking around the Harz Mountains.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.
WHEN
Spring - April or May
The weather is very similar to the UK so highly unpredictable, though I’m of the opinion that Spring is the absolute best time to visit Northern Europe. That being said, I’ll still expect a variety of warm, cool, wet and generally changeable weather for this trip.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds into Hanover, with a 2hr change in Amsterdam
I will also hire a car for the entirety of the trip, and a mountain bike for the stay in the Harz Mountains
Note the following:
the city centre is an environmental zone - access is only permitted for cars with a green sticker
there are over 360 kilometres of cycle paths alongside the city’s roads and 170 kilometres of cycle paths through Hannover's green spaces
you can take your bike on the tram or S-Bahn (Stadtbahn), sometimes at no extra charge
ACCOMMODATION
Quedlinburg (in order of preference):
This delightful little Airbnb feels very inkeeping with the town and its vibe
Similarly adorable is this little 2 bed apartment
Hanover (in order of preference):
GORGEOUS and atmospherically designed apartment smack bang in the centre
A very funky and modern design hotel, Me and All - I’d go superior double for the extra space and the view
Arthotel ANA Prestige - I’d plum for a Junior Suite
Funky and quintessentially German loft apartment right up in the eaves
SCHEDULE
Quedlinburg - Day 1 to 4
Take a guided mountain bike tour in the Solling-Vogler Nature Park & Mountain Biking network
Visit Volksbank Arena Harz mountain bike trail centre with a choice of 74 routes
Visit Bikepark Bodetal
Take any of these off-road routes to take in the scenery around the Bodetal
Eat some traditional German ‘pub-grub’ washed down with German beer at Brauerei Ludde Quedlinburg
Get some coffee and cake at Cafe Zum Roland
Hanover - Day 5 to 7
Visit the Sprengel Museum, to see their collection of 20th century cubist art
Book into a brewery tour at Herrenhauser Brauerei
Attend Velo City Night - at Velo City Night, thousands of cyclists conquer the streets of Hannover, forming a huge collective tour of the city. Similarly, at Skate by Night, around 4,000 inline skaters cruise around the city. Both initiatives are designed to promote alternative travel options and encourage the creation of the infrastructure needed
Attend one of the international firework competition displays at the Herrenhausen Gardens
Day trip to Marienburg Castle - 1 hr 30 m each way on a bike. Perhaps book for one of the guided tours or simply stop in at the restaurant
Hanover has a 2-star Michelin restaurant, Jante. I’d book in here for a treat
Stop by Lindenblatt Burger-Bar. All the ingredients are from the Hannover region, with the steaks coming from ecologically reared animals.
Stadtmauer Hannover - modern restaurant with a view of the Leine river
Have breakfast at Fraulein Schlicht (closed Monday & Tuesday)
ABOUT HANOVER’S NEIGHBOURHOODS
Aldstadt (Old Town) - the central historic hub. This is where all the major sites can be found and the half-timbered architecture
List - the cultured and refined residential district. To the northeast of the Aldstadt, it is just north of the Eilenreide Forest also, so very well located for both culture and the urban outdoors
Calenburger Neustadt - the student district. Bound on all sides by water - River Leine to the east and north, River Ihme to the west
Südstadt - the up-and-coming district for young professionals. This neighbourhood is quiet, residential and is considered a bit of a haven for outdoor activity (with both the Eilenreide and Machensee Lake in close proximity) and is home to a lot of design-focused modern boutiques and a variety of modern restaurants. It is also home to the Sprengel Art Gallery.
Linden - the edgy, funky alternative district. It only became part of Hanover in 1920 and often considers itself having a separate identity
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
In Lower Saxony (German: Niedersachsen), the cuisine is features many of the ingredients common to Northern Europe - buckwheat, apples, butter, potatoes, cherries, pears, plums, asparagus, cabbage, dill, beer and rye. Some of the more unusual specialities include:
Apple Soup made from cooked apples and raisins and seasoned with a generous helping of cinnamon and vanilla
During the spring season, asparagus served with schnitzel, potatoes and brown butter
Welf Pudding is a traditional dessert from Hanover, which is a two-layer posset-like concoction made from egg, milk, vanilla, sugar, cornstarch, dry white wine and lemon
Pinkel is Lower Saxony's national sausage
Sour milk cheeses such as Harzer, Gelbkäse and Bauernhandkäse
They also love Arme Ritter (French Toast) and Buckwheat pancakes
Other 7-10 night Itineraries
