Krakow - learning Polish in Winter
My itinerary journal for 9 frigid nights spent in Krakow learning Polish, in January. Heavy snow and hard pronunciation…..also excellent pierogi and a delightful surrealist art find.
Why Krakow?
Krakow is perhaps the jewel in Poland’s touristic crown. It is a former capital of Poland, famed in particular for it’s architecture that miraculously escaped destruction in World War II, with that classic ‘chocolate box’ cuteness of Central European cities.
I have it in my head that Poland is the up-and-coming cool place to be. I am convinced this country has everything to offer the savvy traveller who likes to be off-the-beaten track but not out-in-the-wilderness. I think its got all the same draws as more well-known destinations like France, Croatia or Italy - great accommodation options, interesting cities which combine culture, history and modernity, pronounced seasons, and varied landscapes including coast, forests, lake districts, rolling greenery and mountains. The only lack seems to be beaches for sunbathing (I know many would argue there is the northern Baltic coast, but Baltic beaches aren’t known for their sunbathing potential). It is very easy to get to from the UK, with many flight options to Poland’s cities. To top it off nicely, the prices are much cheaper than should be expected elsewhere in Western Europe.
The trickiest thing for most is probably the language barrier…………and I love to learn languages and give myself new challenges so I thought, “hey, why not learn some Polish?!” So that’s what this trip was about - a one-week intensive beginners Polish course in Krakow.
Itinerary At A Glance
9 night language learning independent itinerary for Krakow in southern Poland
Travelling in January - specifically to see the city at its winteriest, and better experience the warming effects of Polish vodka.
Based on flying in and out of Krakow from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam
Highlights include an intensive Polish language course, pierogi-making workshop, Jewish history walk and the Unesco Salt Mines.
Based on a solo traveller, with a focus on immersive language learning, some leisurely cultural activities and tours suitable for travelling alone, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.
Honest verdict
Did the place live up to hype or expectations?
Krakow has a reputation for being pretty, and it was definitely pretty, though not quite as pretty as Tallinn for my money. There is plenty to do though I did find it on the brink of being a bit too touristy.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
9 nights was way too much for a city of this size, and only worked because I was attending a language course. Krakow can easily be enjoyed in 2 to 3 nights; it is small enough even for a 24 hour stopover.
Winter was harsh, very harsh, -12C on a few of the days and hardly ever above freezing. This made it uncomfortably bitter and hard to enjoy any activity that involved being outside, even just wandering around. I think without the comforts of a cosy home, friends and family to enjoy the indoors with, it wasn’t super pleasant being there in the height of winter for me. A better itinerary would be for the milder months.
Would I make another visit? Would I recommend it?
Now that I have been, I would say Poland is definitely worth visiting……….but not in the winter.
I can’t see myself returning to Krakow, though would definitely return to Poland but only in the spring or summer.
WHEN
January
January is, on average, the coldest month with the highest likelihood for snow, so I made the itinerary with this in mind, focusing on indoor activities and those which can be done come rain, snow or shine.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds, changing in Amsterdam
ACCOMMODATION
Fantastic apartment, very neat, modern and well-located, just 15 mins walk from the Main Square and 10 from the main train station. I found the desk and monitor a useful addition to my stay, so a small detail that could be helpful for business travellers or remote workers.
Anna Guntner, Polish surrealist painter
ACTIVITIES
One-week Polish language intensive course with Together School - note I chose to shorten their two-week offering
Anna Guntner exhibition - mid-century Polish surrealist painter at Nowa Huta Cultural Centre
City food tour - with AirBnB experiences. This was marvellous
Tour of Unesco World Heritage Site of Wieliczka Salt mine with Krakow Explorers
Took a luxury lunch and spa experience at The Copernicus Spa by L’Occitane in the historic Gothic cellars of the Copernicus Hotel
Jewish History walk - interesting and of course, poignant
Learnt to make traditional pierogi ruskie on this very personal AirBnB experience with Olga - this was fantastic
ABOUT KRAKOW’S NEIGHBOURHOODS
The main neighbourhoods for tourist activity are as follows:
Stare Miasto - the heart and centre, the Old Town. The most central district, the financial, commercial and cultural centre of the city with the tallest buildings, the most important museums, galleries, restaurants, and theatres. It is shaped almost like a lightbulb, with Planty Park encircling pretty much the entirety of its border
Kazimierz - just south of Stare Miasto, the funky, alternative and bohemian district, and the old Jewish Quarter
Podógrze - South again of Kazimierz, and across the Vistula river, another district vying for the title of funkiest and most up-and-coming. This one has that industrial warehouse regeneration vibe about it
Kleparz - just north of the Stare Miasto, mostly upscale residential, this is where tourists can see and experience life lived as a wealthy Cracovian
Ideas for another visit
Bike routes throughout Poland can be found here
For a more bike-concentrated trip, bike maps can be purchased here from Compass (though note they are only in Polish)
Plan Poland is a holiday company specialising in tailor-made holidays in Poland and they have the most fantastic blog with a wide variety of information about the whole country, including specifics about where to go biking, kayaking and the different cities - should I decide to take a summer biking trip, I will almost certainly approach these guys for an itinerary
Hotel Galery69 Design Hotel in the Masuria Lake District
Attend a 4-day haute couture sewing course at KSA (Kracow School of Art & Fashion Design)
Animal-tracking in the Białowieża Forest with Wild Poland
Schindler’s Factory - As immortalised in the film Schindler’s List, Oskar Schindler managed to save many Jews through his enamel factory, that he had converted to make ammunition and mess kits to ensure the Germans would not be suspicious of his activities. Schindler's Factory now houses a museum about Kraków under Nazi occupation alongside a contemporary Polish art museum, MOCAK, which exhibits national and international artists.
Eats for Winter
Warsaw - an off-season city break
My plan for 3 wintry nights in Warsaw.
Itinerary At A Glance
3 night independent itinerary for Warsaw in central Poland
Based on flying in and out of Warsaw from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.
Highlights include touring the city in a Communist-era Fiat 126p, experiencing the annual Royal Garden of Light exhibition at the ‘Polish Versailles’ Wilanow Palace, enjoying Warsaw’s new and revived baking culture, and some cross-country skiing in one of the parks outside of Warsaw.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and active pursuits, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Warsaw came onto my radar through a mix of unexpected recommendations. Paul Hollywood mentioned it in one of his baking books as a great spot for baked goods — oddly specific, but it stuck. Then I read a Telegraph piece about Warsaw’s emerging food scene, and Lonely Planet flagged Białowieża Forest as a winter destination, with Warsaw as the nearest airport. Add Poland’s reputation for good value, and the idea started to take shape.
I did some digging and found plenty to justify a city break: interesting eateries in a cuisine I barely knew, museums and tours covering Poland’s layered history - from royalty to Communism to Judaism - plus a modern cultural scene, all at reasonable prices. It’s also less obvious than Kraków for British travellers, which made it feel like a more original choice.
Annual Royal Garden of Light exhibition at Royal Palace at Wilanów
WHEN
January
January is, on average, the coldest month with harshly cold weather and the highest likelihood for snow, so I have made the itinerary with this in mind, focusing on indoor activities and those which can be done come rain, snow or shine.
This is an unusual time to visit but will see the city at its winteriest, see the Royal Garden of Light in the winter dark and better experience the warming effects of Polish vodka.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds Bradford to Warsaw, changing in Amsterdam
ACCOMMODATION
H15 Boutique Hotel, in the Suite or Prestige Suite - this kind of quality is usually outside of my budget but not in Poland!
Smack-bang in Warsaw’s Old Town, a beautiful and very highly recommended duplex in a Gothic building
Petite and perfectly-formed little apartment for 2
Luxe and highly-modern apartment in the business district
SCHEDULE
Polin Museum
Day 1
Try to arrive in the morning
Visit the Polin Museum - documents the history of Polish Jews
Do a food tour with Warsaw Behind the Scenes - travelling in a vintage minibus
Day 2
Attend a cookery class with Polish Your Cooking - The classes take place every Wednesday and Saturday at 10.30 am and every Friday at 6.00 pm
Get to know more about the history of Warsaw and what it was like under the communist regime with a self-drive tour in a Communist-era Fiat 126p (being an all-round car enthusiast, my boyfriend would love this) with WPT1313 Tours
Have dinner at Hala Koszyki Market - Located in an Art Nouveau market hall, it combines a day food market, a night street food market, a and event space all under one roof. Supposedly a hit with locals and is open every weekend from 8am until 1am.
See some live music at the bar underneath the National Opera of Poland’s Grand Theatre
A winter dawn view from the Vistula River
Day 3
Try cross-country skiing in Powsin Park. You can rent equipment in many places. Read more here.
Visit the Royal Palace at Wilanów, in particular, to see the Royal Garden of Lights at night
Book a table for dinner at Rozbrat20, as recommended by the Michelin Travel Guide
Day 4
For breakfast, get real bread from Piwonski Bakery at the Restaurant Femina , Al. Jana Pawła II 38 (Opening hours Mon - Fri: 7.00 - 20.00, Sat: 7.30-15.00)
Wander around Śródmieście - both Old and New Town
Leave in the afternoon
ABOUT WARSAW’S NEIGHBOURHOODS
Warsaw is a rough oval, bissected north-to-south by the Vistula river. The main neighbourhoods are as follows:
Śródmieście - beside the Vistula River, the heart and centre, both Old and New Town. The most central district in Warsaw, Śródmieście is the financial, commercial and cultural centre of the city and boasts the tallest buildings, the most important museums, galleries, restaurants, and theatres. On the west bank of the river runs the Vistulan Boulevard, a contemporary promenade dotted with waterside bars and cafes - not to be missed for a stroll and a bite to eat as you people-watch
Wola - highly urbanized commercial area with lots of skyscrapers. It used to be an industrial district and today is where many multinational corporations have decided to base their offices - as such, many residential buildings have popped up alongside in the form of modern flats. Highly accessible place to stay as an alternative to Śródmieście
Mokotów, Żoliborz and Ochota - all three of these are green, tranquil, and quite fashionable residential districts in easy reach of the city centre, some of the most desirable places to actually live in the city. Not loads and loads to see for a tourist, but one option is Królikarnia in the Mokotów district - a palace and a park for a stroll (and a picnic or icecream in warm weather)
Praga Północ (Praga North) and Praga Południe (Praga South) - Located on the east bank of the Vistula River, the Praga district is the only location in Warsaw where the buildings have remained untouched by the war. This part of the city still has a very bad reputation among many Varsovians because in the past this was a very dangerous and poor area of the city (its nickname was The Bermuda Triangle). Nowadays, especially on its southern side, this district is becoming the home to its alternative, avantgarde culture, a trendy hotspot in Warsaw, with art galleries, artists’ ateliers, cool restaurants, and pubs. However charming and vibrant, this is still the district with the highest unemployment rate and the poorest population, so at least a little care should be taken.
Wilanów - A district far outside the centre of Warsaw, it is famous for its baroque palace, the Wilanów Palace, which is sometimes referred to as the Polish Versailles. Other than this, it features large, wild, underdeveloped areas which allows for outdoor activities such as biking, golf, and kayaking along the Vistula.
Other Winter Itineraries
