Jersey - a long weekend in Spring
My travel itinerary for 3 nights in Jersey, Channel Islands. Walking, history and dining.
Itinerary At A Glance
3 night independent itinerary for Jersey, part of the Channel Islands, off the south coast of England
Based on either flying in and out of Jersey from Leeds, or Liverpool
Highlights include gastropub dining on English-French fusion fare, pick-your-own pearl for jewellery, Jersey War Tunnels and craggy coastal walks.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and hiking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why Jersey?
Elegant.
Teensy.
Historic.
It does rather pack a punch in terms of interesting things to do and see over a long weekend.
Much of it’s interest rests on the 5-year long German occupation, indeed the only part of the British territory under occupation during WWII, and theremnants and historical sites that stand testament to this cultural oddity are now visitor attractions.
As well as this though, there are plenty of beaches, coves and coastal paths for wandering, some excellent restaurants, and loads of trips and activities on the sea, which is always in easy reach no matter where you stay on the island.
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
What do people expect from Jersey?! Wealth and the remnants of war?? We got that. Some of the property is knock-your-socks-off-stunning, and there are leavings of occupation kind of everywhere.
I think what exceeded expectations though, was how picturesque it is. Tiny little valleys nestled in leafy woods that suddenly give out onto a view of the sea. Turquoise blue coves (the picture above is snapped on my phone with no filter). Ancient towers on the horizon. Harbourside restaurants.
The hotel was excellent, the walking was lovely, and the weather put on a very very good show, with blue skies, warm sun and a light breeze. Late May is a lovely time to visit.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
3 days was just right. There isn’t endless amounts of stuff to do on the island, and it could become a bit same-y in my view. The one thing I wished we had seen was The Celtic Hoard at la Hougue Bie.
Would I recommend it? Would I make another visit?
Can definitely recommend it, though for us personally, one trip is likely enough. Maybe we’ll go back in another 10 years.
WHEN
Late May
The last week in May is a school holiday, so things book up quickly.
We got warm (not hot) the whole time. May be changeable.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 05:14am to 5:09am
Sunset: 20:58pm to 21:04pm
16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Fly direct from Leeds to Jersey with Jet2, or direct from Liverpool to Jersey with Easyjet
The flight schedule is more restrictive from Leeds Bradford, with flights only on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, whereas flights from Liverpool are daily.
ACCOMMODATION
Greenhills Country House Hotel
An excellent hotel - peacful, elegant and relaxed.
Being such a tiny island, and a popular one, accommodation choices are somewhat limited and what there is books up very very quickly. This needs to be booked very well ahead of time.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Arrive; settle in.
Dinner: at the hotel
Day 2
Experience: Booked Pick-A-Pearl experience at Jersey Pearl - chose, and graded pearls for jewellery.
Play: Roccos Crazy Golf in St Ouen’s Bay. Open 9am – 5pm everyday (not bookable)
Walk: Took in one of the coastal path walks up near Plémont and the ruins of 14c Grosnez Castle
Dinner: Ate at Cheffins at Beaumont Inn
Day 3
Jersey War Tunnels: Book a ticket for an understanding of the island under German Occupation, the only part of the British Isles occupied during World War II
Walk: Took a walk on the east coast, taking in St Catherines, Archirondel and Mont Orgueil Castle
Ice Cream: stop at The Botanic Gardens at Samarès Manor
Dinner: Booked for relaxed dinner at The Old Court House Inn, in St Aubin’s - relaxed, yet polished pub dining, with an alfresco option. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Day 4
Breakfast
Morning in St Helier: See the Occupation Tapestry at the Maritime Museum in St Helier (12 panels, woven by islanders commemorating liberation from 5 years of Nazi rule)
Travel home
Ideas for another visit
-
Visit ‘Searching for Jersey’s Celts’ exhibition at La Hougue Bie, home of Le Câtillon II – the world’s largest Celtic hoard ever found, including thousands of coins and several pieces of jewellery. The site is also home to a neolithic village.
Tour St Catherine’s Bunker - 2 hour tour of WWII German fortification and tunnel complex.
Become a Distiller for the Day at The Gin Lab, La Côte Distillery in St Helier
Sunset tours aboard Jersey Duchess - 2 hour tour, departing from St Helier
See St Helier as it may have been in the early 1800’s at 16 New Street Georgian House Museum - Open Wed, Thu & Fri, 10am to 4pm
Visit Elizabeth Castle, just off the coast in St Helier
-
Feast on Gorey Pier, overlooking Mont Orgueil Castle. Open Tues lunch to Sunday lunch
Book at gastropub Bass & Lobster, in Gorey.
Book for Samphire Brasserie in St Helier - relaxed, yet polished fine dining, with alfresco and private dining options. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Tues to Sat. Closed Sunday & Monday.
Other Short Itineraries
Guernsey in Spring - walking on a tiny island
My planned itinerary for spending 4 springtime days in Guernsey, Channel Islands. Days spent walking and picnicking, nights spent in a treehouse hotel.
Why Guernsey?
The Bailiwick of Guernsey is technically a collection of islands that includes the island of Guernsey plus nearby islands of Sark, Alderney, Jethou, Brecqhou and Herm.
Guernsey itself is a very very small island - just 65 sq. km. Comparing this to other islands: it is 7 times smaller than Ibiza, and 6 times smaller than Barbados. Comparing it to an English county: Cornwall is 55 times larger than Guernsey. Comparing this to cities in the UK, it is about the same size as Derby; a very very small British city indeed. Apparently, walking around the entirety of the Guernsey Coastal path is 64km which can be done at a very leisurely pace over the course of 4 days. So that sizes the prize a little.
Aside from its diminuitiveness, Guernsey is known for dramatic coastlines, lots of beaches, being a tax haven, being occupied by the Nazis during the Second World War and also being the home of Victor Hugo when in exile from France. The culture is neither British nor French, and both at the same time.
The attraction of Guernsey for the traveller is a little escapism, activities on the water and some easygoing outdoor activity like walking or leisure cycling to take in the sea views, pretty coves and fortress remnants. You come here to slow down, relax and experience island life.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Guernsey, part of the Channel Islands, off the south coast of England
Based on either flying in and out of Guernsey from Leeds, or East Midlands
Highlights include alfresco dining on English-French fusion fare, walking parts of the Coastal Path, a day trip out to Jersey to visit the War Tunnels and hiking with a picnic
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and hiking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
April or May
Typically dry with long daylight hours and mild pleasant weather
ACCOMMODATION
Being such a tiny island, and a popular one, accommodation choices are somewhat limited and what there is books up very very quickly. This needs to be booked very well ahead of time.
In order of preference for me:
Fermain Valley Hotel Treehouses (they have a yoga space in this hotel)
The Farmhouse Hotel and Restaurant
Fermain Tower **While very cool, this is also located in a small car park, so not quite the prettiest outdoor space. This is incredibly popular, easily with a year-long list of bookings already scheduled.
TRAVEL MEANS
Fly direct from Leeds to Guernsey or direct from East Midlands to Guernsey with Aurigny
The flight schedule is more restrictive from Leeds Bradford, with flights only on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays, whereas flights from East Midlands are 4 times a week.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Arrive; settle in.
Day 2
Breakfast: Rooftop Cafe at Creasey’s, in St Peter Port
Hike with a Picnic: Take one of these harder hiking routes
Day 3
Hike: Take one of these routes
Dinner: Book at hotel gastropub Les Douvres, in St Martin’s - dinner and live music (Friday nights only)
Day 4
Day trip to Jersey: Take the foot ferry, have breakfast in St Helier at La Bouche in Central Market
Jersey War Tunnels: Book a ticket for an understanding of the island under German Occupation, the only part of the British Isles occupied during World War II
Day 5
Breakfast
Travel home: try to arrange return travel to leave in the morning
Other UK-based Itineraries
Donostia–San Sebastián - a Spring itinerary for fashion and food
Balenciaga, pintxos and bar crawls. My itinerary journal for a long rainy weekend spent in San Sebastian, Basque Country, with a friend.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Donostia–San Sebastián and surrounds, based on flying from Manchester, in May
Highlights include pintxos food tour, dance theatre performance, the Balenciaga museum in Getaria and dinner at 1 Michelin star restaurant, Alameda.
Based on a two friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does it live up to hype or expectations?
I would say I did have high expectations. There is a lot of hype around Donostia–San Sebastián. A major resort city and formerly the summer residence of the Spanish royal court; to say that this is a place under the radar would be false.
Luckily though, it hasn’t succumbed to too much tourism and maintains an authenticity, with a resident population who genuinely live and work here. We could tell that we were eating in pintxos bars alongside locals. The tours we took were thoughtful and warm, and the food was simply outstanding - again, in line with expectations of this being a ‘foodie’ destination.
From start to finish, the city is thoroughly recommended.
One area that did disappoint though, was the hotel. Basic, shabby, and trading off the view - not a place I would recommend.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
Perfectly.
4 nights is a great way to enjoy San Sebastian, with plenty of time for wandering and pintxos. Having a mixture of pre-booked cultural activities with time to just wander makes the most of a long weekend. The car allowed us to make trips to places closeby to give us more options.
I would recommend staying in the city centre though (rather than on the outskirts as we did) and note that we had a lot of rain when we visited in May. It may not be immediately obvious that Spain might be quite wet, but this part of Northern Spain is so, and it did rather put a ‘dampener’ on the trip, so to speak. Perhaps better to visit summer or autumn for a chance at better weather.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit the Basque Country again, though, I feel I have now seen enough of San Sebastián. My next trip to the Basque Country would be either as part of a tour of all the Northern Spanish regions, or as a tour across the Greater Basque Region including France and the Pyrenees.
WHEN
May
LIGHT & WEATHER
Moderate daylight. Wet. Cool. Overcast.
Sunrise: 07:01am - 06:31am
Sunset: 21:10pm - 21:41pm
17 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Flight & Car hire
Fly Manchester into Bilbao (BIO), which is about 100km or 1 hr driving from San Sebastian
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Fly in the morning, collect car, arrive and settle in
Day 2
Tour: Pintxos Lunch Tour with San Sebastian Food
Evening show: dance performance at the Victoria Eugenia Theatre
Day 3
Breakfast: found somewhere in the city - plenty of delicious coffee and cake places
Museum: Drove to Getaria to visit Museo Cristóbal Balenciaga (the Balenciaga museum), about 25km, 30 mins driving. Worth it.
Dinner: Pintxos bar crawl through the city
Day 4
Relax: breakfast, spend the morning chilling out
Wander the city: Small and compact, with a city beach - spent an hour or two wandering and soaking up the atmosphere
Dinner: at 1 Michelin Star Alameda - absolutely superb. Advance booking essential
Day 5
Travel home
Ideas for another visit
Take in San Sebastian as part of a tour of the Greater Basque Region, including Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Biarritz, Bilbao and the Pyrenees.
Visit Añana Salt Valley in Álava province. Visitors can take guided tours to find out about the traditional salt-making process and enjoy halotherapy treatments in the salt foot baths.
Take bike rides to see megalithic monument Sorginetxe, "House of Witches" , in Arrizala, Agurain, Cromlech Mendiluze and Dolmen de la Chabola de la Hechicera
Take in San Sebastian as part of a tour of all four of Spain’s northern coastal regions - Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia
Sewing projects for a Spring itinerary
Bergen - an active itinerary for Spring
My imagined travel itinerary for 4-5 days in Bergen and the surrounding fjords. Biking, hiking and nordic dining
Why Bergen?
Its been on my list for a while - a second city renowned for being one of those ‘outdoorsy’ types. Might up our street.
I originally imagined this trip in December - picturing a snowy and cosy wonderland……..but this article disabused me of this idea. Apparently, the oceanic climate and presence of the sea and the mountains together cause plentiful rainfall but also gives Bergen a more temperate climate than its latitude might suggest. This is all further moderated by the Gulf Stream which means any snowfall melts quickly. Instead, I think a trip in May will be the most pleasurable, making the most of long days and (slightly) drier skies.
Bergen gained wealth and prominence as a major trade port and served as Norway's capital in the 13th century; nowadays it is Norway’s second-largest city, though small by many city standards at around 270,000 inhabitants which compares with Newcastle or Greater Norwich in the UK. Bergen is now a major cruise ship port and gateway to the Norwegian outdoors, most notably, the fjords. The outdoors, particularly the nearby mountains and waterways, characterise the city and the things it has to offer to tourists, with much in the way of hiking, biking and countryside-escaping opportunities.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Bergen, on the southwest coast of Norway
Based on flying in and out of Bergen from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.
Highlights include a combined rail-and-boat trip along the fjords, hiking the mountains that surround Bergen, hanging out at the UNESCO heritage Hanseatic Harbour
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and hiking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
May - the driest month on average with long daylight hours
Note though, the weather in this city is known to be very wet and changeable, so go with no expectations of great weather and don’t let the rain stop you, whatever you have planned
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds, changing in Amsterdam
Probably won’t need a car for this trip
ACCOMMODATION
My first choice would be to stay in a traditional white clapboard house, so iconic to this part of the world, though a great view of the city and its waterways could trump that. Below is my shortlist of viable contenders, with lovely Scandi design elements and a little outdoor space.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Arrive: Try to arrive in the morning; settle in and collect a few groceries
Walking Tour: This Walking tour of Bergen looks to cover the more authentic aspects of the city, such as what it is like to live there and the issues facing Bergen in this present moment.
Day 2
Hike: Book this guided hike between two of Bergen’s most famous mountains - Floyen and Ulriken.
Dinner: Book at Bryggeloftet for a traditional dining experience, and I’ve been reliably advised that a window seat should be requested.
Day 3
Flåm railway: Combine a cruise along Sognefjord (Norway's longest and deepest fjord) with the famous Flåm Railway and Bergen Railway on this excursion. Alternatively, this private tour takes you biking, RIB riding and a trip on the Flåm railway.
Day 4
Relax
Dinner in the Mountains: Book the Ulriken by Night tour with FjordTours which is a combo tour with a the cable car to the top of Mount Ulriken (the highest of Bergen’s Seven Mountains), and dinner in the restaurant Skyskraperen.
Day 5
Travel home: try to depart in the morning
-
In this city, better to plan that whatever you are doing, you are doing come rain or shine, as rain is very common. For absolute last resort indoor activities:
Permanent indoor Fish Market (where there are several fish restaurants also)
KODE Art, Craft & Design museum - among Scandinavia’s largest art museums
Dinner at Lysverket
Bergenhus Fortress Museum and walk the fortress trail for a look at the history and nature in the area. Visit on special national holidays to watch the dramatic gun salutes.
Bergenhus Bryggeri to try some of the many microbrews available.
FOOD & DRINK - SPECIALITIES & FOOD CUSTOMS
Not known for being a cheese producing nation but apparently in the World Cheese awards in Bergen in 2018, the overall winner was fanaost from the producer Ostegården, just south of Bergen. I’d try and have a taste.
Fiskesuppe is a staple of Norwegian traditional grub - not to try it would be rude.
Raspeballer - boiled potato dumplings. In Bergen, they are often served with Vossa sausage from the neighbouring village of Voss.
Other Active Itineraries
Hanover and The Harz Mountains - a Spring travel plan for mountain biking and city break
Travelling in spring, departing from Leeds, my imagined itinerary for 7 nights of exploring in Lower Saxony.
Why Hanover & The Harz Mountains?
The start of my research into The Harz Mountains was inspired by this article from Culture Trip; I did a bit more digging and found what looks to be a perfect region to explore on a bike.
The main focus of the trip will be the Harz Mountains and I’ve plumbed for one of the most obvious towns as the base - Quedlinburg. This little city is a UNESCO World Heritage site owing to it being the burial site for the first German King, and it was Germany's first capital and an important city during the Middle Ages. Now, it is a well-known tourist destination and is usually the favoured spot for a visit to the region. Looks to be a great base for a bit of biking around the Harz, while also offering up options for historical activities and dining.
Hanover (spelt Hannover in German) is very simply the nearest city and the most obvious airport - so I decided to make it a part of the itinerary. Much of their visitor marketing is geared towards the city as a business destination but reading between the lines, I found more than enough history, culture and uniquely Hanoverian experiences for us to enjoy a few days getting to know this city. The Aldstadt (German for ‘Old Town’) is full of those gorgeous half-timbered structures and it is home to the Eilenriede, Europe's largest municipal forest. It is very bike friendly, both in the city and its surrounds, with hundreds of kilometres of signposted routes and city bike lanes. Its reputation as a business hub also makes it incredibly easily logistics-wise, so superb for the independent traveller. Most unique of all is that the city has an international firework competition each year………weird, and cool. In short, many many reasons for a visit.
I have visited Germany once before - Bavaria and Baden-Wuttemburg - and ever since, I’ve been telling anyone who will listen that the best baked goods are in Germany - not in France, not in Italy - Germany. So add superb cake and daily pretzels to the list of attractions.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 day independent itinerary; 4 nights in Quedlinburg, then 3 nights in Hanover, travelling in Spring - April, May or June.
Based on flying in and out of Hanover from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.
Highlights include a two-wheeled day trip to Marienburg Castle, international firework competition displays, enjoying modern German fine dining in a 2-star Michelin restaurant, understanding more of Germany’s medieval history, and biking around the Harz Mountains.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.
WHEN
Spring - April or May
The weather is very similar to the UK so highly unpredictable, though I’m of the opinion that Spring is the absolute best time to visit Northern Europe. That being said, I’ll still expect a variety of warm, cool, wet and generally changeable weather for this trip.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds into Hanover, with a 2hr change in Amsterdam
I will also hire a car for the entirety of the trip, and a mountain bike for the stay in the Harz Mountains
Note the following:
the city centre is an environmental zone - access is only permitted for cars with a green sticker
there are over 360 kilometres of cycle paths alongside the city’s roads and 170 kilometres of cycle paths through Hannover's green spaces
you can take your bike on the tram or S-Bahn (Stadtbahn), sometimes at no extra charge
ACCOMMODATION
Quedlinburg (in order of preference):
This delightful little Airbnb feels very inkeeping with the town and its vibe
Similarly adorable is this little 2 bed apartment
Hanover (in order of preference):
GORGEOUS and atmospherically designed apartment smack bang in the centre
A very funky and modern design hotel, Me and All - I’d go superior double for the extra space and the view
Arthotel ANA Prestige - I’d plum for a Junior Suite
Funky and quintessentially German loft apartment right up in the eaves
SCHEDULE
Quedlinburg - Day 1 to 4
Take a guided mountain bike tour in the Solling-Vogler Nature Park & Mountain Biking network
Visit Volksbank Arena Harz mountain bike trail centre with a choice of 74 routes
Visit Bikepark Bodetal
Take any of these off-road routes to take in the scenery around the Bodetal
Eat some traditional German ‘pub-grub’ washed down with German beer at Brauerei Ludde Quedlinburg
Get some coffee and cake at Cafe Zum Roland
Hanover - Day 5 to 7
Visit the Sprengel Museum, to see their collection of 20th century cubist art
Book into a brewery tour at Herrenhauser Brauerei
Attend Velo City Night - at Velo City Night, thousands of cyclists conquer the streets of Hannover, forming a huge collective tour of the city. Similarly, at Skate by Night, around 4,000 inline skaters cruise around the city. Both initiatives are designed to promote alternative travel options and encourage the creation of the infrastructure needed
Attend one of the international firework competition displays at the Herrenhausen Gardens
Day trip to Marienburg Castle - 1 hr 30 m each way on a bike. Perhaps book for one of the guided tours or simply stop in at the restaurant
Hanover has a 2-star Michelin restaurant, Jante. I’d book in here for a treat
Stop by Lindenblatt Burger-Bar. All the ingredients are from the Hannover region, with the steaks coming from ecologically reared animals.
Stadtmauer Hannover - modern restaurant with a view of the Leine river
Have breakfast at Fraulein Schlicht (closed Monday & Tuesday)
ABOUT HANOVER’S NEIGHBOURHOODS
Aldstadt (Old Town) - the central historic hub. This is where all the major sites can be found and the half-timbered architecture
List - the cultured and refined residential district. To the northeast of the Aldstadt, it is just north of the Eilenreide Forest also, so very well located for both culture and the urban outdoors
Calenburger Neustadt - the student district. Bound on all sides by water - River Leine to the east and north, River Ihme to the west
Südstadt - the up-and-coming district for young professionals. This neighbourhood is quiet, residential and is considered a bit of a haven for outdoor activity (with both the Eilenreide and Machensee Lake in close proximity) and is home to a lot of design-focused modern boutiques and a variety of modern restaurants. It is also home to the Sprengel Art Gallery.
Linden - the edgy, funky alternative district. It only became part of Hanover in 1920 and often considers itself having a separate identity
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
In Lower Saxony (German: Niedersachsen), the cuisine is features many of the ingredients common to Northern Europe - buckwheat, apples, butter, potatoes, cherries, pears, plums, asparagus, cabbage, dill, beer and rye. Some of the more unusual specialities include:
Apple Soup made from cooked apples and raisins and seasoned with a generous helping of cinnamon and vanilla
During the spring season, asparagus served with schnitzel, potatoes and brown butter
Welf Pudding is a traditional dessert from Hanover, which is a two-layer posset-like concoction made from egg, milk, vanilla, sugar, cornstarch, dry white wine and lemon
Pinkel is Lower Saxony's national sausage
Sour milk cheeses such as Harzer, Gelbkäse and Bauernhandkäse
They also love Arme Ritter (French Toast) and Buckwheat pancakes
Other 7-10 night Itineraries
Noto Valley, Sicily - a Spring trip
Travelling in spring, journal and itinerary of my 10 night Sicilian stay in the Noto Valley.
Itinerary At A Glance
10 day independent itinerary for Southeastern Sicily (the region is often referred to as the Noto Valley) staying in hilltop town Scicli
Based on flying in and out of Manchester into Catania on Sicily’s east coast, in April or May
Highlights include taking a tour up Mount Etna, strolling around Sicily’s historic hilltop towns, and seeing ancient Greek architecture at the Valley of the Temples.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Not for me, no. Unfortunately, not one of our better trips and not somewhere we would necessarily recommend or visit again. Main complaints for us were issues with the accommodation but also (controversial opinion I’m sure) we didn’t find the island landscape beautiful really; it is marred with flytipping and endless endless fields of polytunnels for tomatoes. The towns we visited were pretty in the main streets, but the outskirts aren’t.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
No.
10 nights was much too long for us, with not enough of what we like to do to occupy us for this length of time, particularly where we stayed in Scicli - many of the activities we enjoyed were actually quite far from our base. This has taught me to start finding an itinerary of activities first, and then find accommodation to suit that, not the other way round.
Would I make another visit?
I wouldn’t return Scicli or the Noto Valley, and couldn’t recommend it. In hindsight, I think a better base for us in Southeastern Sicily could have been Syracuse/Ortigia island, though Sicily is not on the top of my list after this trip.
WHEN
May
We experienced warm pleasant, sunny weather. I wouldn’t call it hot - we needed trousers and long sleeves, plus a jacket or cardigan most of the time. Despite how hot Sicily will get in the summer, it wasn’t that hot at this point.
TRAVEL MEANS
Manchester direct into Catania, with Easyjet
We hired a car for the entirety of our trip, and it would be impossible to do without it.
Scicli is a 2 hour drive from Catania airport
ACCOMMODATION
Villa Saracena, Contrada Croce, 97018 Scicli, +39 349 648 3018
I cannot recommend this accommodation - we couldn’t stay there the first night (some issue which I can’t remember) so we stayed in one of their sister accommodations. Then part way through the trip we lost all power and water for two full days. This, unfortunately, became a memorable downer on the trip as it became quite stressful not to have those basic amenities. The staff were trying hard, but really, it just felt unacceptable and sort of ruined the stay.
I think I might have taken it on the chin a bit better if the accommodation had been extremely reasonably priced, but it wasn’t - it was comparable with any luxury accommodation in any European destination - so it just felt like they had failed to match their service with the kind that would be expected for that price.
FOOD
It’s hard to have bad food in Italy, and this was certainly the case for our trip, but neither did we have food that was so outstanding I feel compelled to recommend here. If you do go, be absolutely certain you buy yourself some fresh ricotta, and eat it simply on fresh bread, topped with proscuitto and olive oil. This is sublime and you can’t replicate these flavours at home in the UK. A lasting memory of the trip and the island.
ACTIVITIES
Mount Etna 4x4 & Cable Car tour - this was a superb part of the trip, but it is a very long drive from where we stayed in Scicli, at least 2.5 hours each way. Two things to point out - one, be sure to book in advance, and two, you really do need to dress for extremely cold weather for reaching the top. Jeans and a jacket will not cut it, no matter how warm and mild it is at the base of the volcano. This may sound like an very obvious thing to say, but the tour company did not give us any instruction on this point, and while we were much more appropriately dressed than the majority of our fellow tour-goers, we were underdressed for the wickedly strong winds and snow at the summit and it impacted on our ability to enjoy it.
MTB & Sea Kayak Tour Sampieri coast - this would have been great……if my boyfriend didn’t get severely seasick about 20 minutes into the trip. Francesco, our guide, was superb about the whole thing.
Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples) in Agrigento - Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, the Valley of the Temples contains one of the largest archaeological sites in the Mediterranean and is one of the most extensive, representative and best preserved archaeological sites of classical Greek civilisation who were settled in Sicily and the southern part of the Italian peninsula. The Romans called the area of Sicily and the foot of the boot of Italy Magna Graecia (Latin, "Greater Greece"), since it was so densely inhabited by Greeks. This was an absolutely fantastic way to spend the day, and is humbling to wander around the magnificent and ancient structures.
DAY TRIPS & WHERE TO WANDER
Noto - One of the Baroque gems of Sicily and rebuilt from scratch after the 1693 earthquake. We spent a pleasurable half-day wandering around this town and had lunch outside on the pretty main street.
Modica - In the 15th Century, when Modica was under Spanish control, chocolate (xocolatl) was brought from the Aztec areas of South America and they still make chocolate using the ancient recipe. Like Noto, we spent a few hours just wandering around, tried the chocolate and had a coffee. I’d give it 3 out of 5 - not necessarily as awesome as so much online content makes out and I wouldn’t recommend making this your destination - better to stop off here as a way to break up a longer journey to some other place.
Ideas for another visit
Stay in Syracuse/Ortigia island
Riverwalk in Cassibile Gorge - with AirBnB experiences. Just south of Syracuse, a vast, 10 kilometre-long, 300m deep gorge has been bisected by the emerald green Cassibile River, through which a series of fresh water pools and waterfalls tumble. Spend a day hiking, clambering and (if you’re brave enough) taking a dip in the ice-cold water. There are beautiful wildflowers, butterflies and several interesting archaeological ruins here too.
See the troglodytic (cave dwelling) culture of Cava d’Ispica - If you have the time and energy, you can follow the gorge all the way to Ispica town (12km / 3-4 hours), supposedly a lovely walk in springtime.
Vendicari Nature Reserve - A mixture of salt lagoons (pantano), sand dunes, rocky coastlines, and sandy beaches, and thousands of migrating birds pass a few days here on their way to or from Africa with flamingos, herons, storks and cormorants regulars during autumn. It’s reputedly a wonderful environment for a good seaside walk and a picnic. There are no lidos or bars, so it is essential to take what you need with you – water, something to eat, swimsuit and towels. There are three entrances to the park, all off the main Noto-Pachino road. The middle entrance, signposted Torre di Vendicari, gives you the opportunity of heading north or south. Wherever you decide to enter, you will have to park you car and walk some way, though this is a generally thought of as a pleasurable experience.
Sewing projects for a Spring trip
Avignon, France - a travel itinerary for Spring
Using historic Avignon as a base for exploring the Luberon and the Alpilles, my journal and itinerary with time for biking, river kayaking and soaking up the Provencal atmosphere. Our experience and verdict.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 day itinerary for Avignon in either April or May
based on flying from Leeds Bradford to Marseille, and hiring a car upon arrival
Highlights include outdoor adventures on river kayaks and bikes, strolling around Provence’s historic locations in the warm spring sunshine, and cooking at home with local Provençal produce
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to expectations?
I love river cities full of the grandeur and confidence of a long and important history.
Capital of the Vaucluse and the Côtes du Rhône, seat of the Popes and city of art and culture, Avignon is a small city that has everything a big one has, with more beauty and grace than you can shake a stick at. The centre is walled, filled with medieval meandering streets, private mansions from the Renaissance, tiny squares, and modern cafe culture. One side of the city borders the Rhone and the countryside is not far, with beautiful regions such as the Luberon, Carmargue and Les Alpilles all within a 1 hour drive.
Top marks for location - there might not be a bad spot in the whole of Provence, but I feel like no-one talks about Avignon so it felt a bit like we were discovering a place that other Brits know nothing about. The city itself is truly beautiful - clean, historic, vibrant, atmospheric - and the surrounding countryside equally so - verdant, relaxed, elegant. This place matches the photos, the hype and the general popularity.
We found this to be a superb base for sampling both Provence’s historical sites and outdoor beauty.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
Yes - I wouldn’t usually spend 7 days in a city, but this one worked. Avignon is only a small city, and makes an ideal base for day trips in the provencal surrounds. Coming back to Avignon each evening meant we could take advantage of the excellent selection of bistros and restaurants in the city for dinner, and also enjoyed several breakfasts on a cafe terrace, watching Avignon’s gentle hustle and bustle thrum by.
However - the decision to fly from Leeds via Heathrow was not a good one. We had such a long wait in Heathrow and arrived in Avignon quite late. It would have been much better to go direct from Manchester.
We also took the bike with us on the flight but in retrospect, it wasn’t worth it for staying in the city itself - being inside a medium-sized city meant there was a fair amount of traffic so it was only used the one day. If we had chosen a more town or rural location as our base, I think the bike would have seen a lot more use.
Would I make another visit?
I would absolutely visit Provence again, though feel we wouldn’t necessarily need to return to Avignon. I would however, very much recommend it to anyone.
TRAVEL MEANS
British Airways, from Leeds to Marseille via Heathrow
We also hired a car for the entirety of the trip, which is necessary for getting around the region for day trips
ACCOMMODATION
This Airbnb
well-located apartment right in the middle of the city.
very ‘French’ in style
high-quality kitchen and bathroom.
Included a parking space about a 5 minute walk away (parking in the city is incredibly difficult so this was vital)
ACTIVITIES
Toured around a provencal market with a local - booked in advance with Airbnb Experiences. This was wonderful – a knowledgeable insider taking you round a food market in a place with such produce can’t be beaten.
River-kayaking along the Sorgue – booked in advance with Airbnb Experiences. Crystal clear, freezing cold and verdantly beautiful, this was a fabulously easy outdoor activity that offered a chance to see some of the nature of Provence. We saw kingfishers, beavers, navigated some little ‘steps’ in the river and just relaxed in the kayak – we travelled with the current so there was very little paddling involved!
Cycled up Mont Ventoux - well, my boyfriend did! Famous Tour-de-France stage, bit too serious for my tastes - I’m more of a leisure cyclist than a serious road biker. Reports from him though were that this was well worth the trip. We took his bike especially for this reason.
FOOD
We bought lots of fresh produce from Les Halles Food Market and ate at home
The reason we ate at home so much was not due to a lack of places to eat, but rather how exciting it felt to shop in Les Halles! ‘Les Halles’ in French literally means ‘covered market’ and you will find a ‘Les Halles’ in the vast majority of major French cities or towns. The one in Avignon is deserving of a superb reputation (which it has!) This market is composed of about 40 stall holders selling both fresh produce and ready-to-eats - Maison Violette bread and pastries stall to the left as you go in is superb.
Opening times: Les Halles is open every morning except Mondays. It’s especially lively Sunday mornings.
As well as Les Halles, the streets in the city are full to bursting with cafes, bistros, restaurants, traditional and international alike, and we sampled some of these also.
DAY TRIPS
Drive to Les Baux-de-Provence and take the audio tour around the Chateux de Les Baux
Located on a rocky plateau in the heart of the Alpilles, the town of Les Baux-de-Provence provides a breathtaking panoramic view down over Arles and the Camargue and the drive to get there is delightfully atmospheric. The town has been patiently restored and now boasts a historical and architecture heritage consisting of 22 listed buildings. In addition, the monumental “Carrières de Lumières” host extraordinary multimedia shows.
Arles
A major Roman centre, and famous for its amphitheatre and association with Van Gogh. We had a little stroll through the narrow streets of the centre and while it was sweet, I couldn’t honestly say it was a real highlight of the trip and wouldn’t recommend going out of your way for a visit here.
Wander Avignon itself
Historical, grand, and a bit of that fabulous ‘shabby chic’ the French do so well. Don’t take a map or use your phone - just wander without a plan. Its small enough for you to not worry at all about getting lost and you will surely stumble on some adorable little cafe as you walk, where you can sit out with a coffee and a viennoiserie, while you watch people go about their business. We spent at least two blissful half-days doing this.
Road-trip through the Luberon to visit the hilltop and valley villages
The Luberon is a beautiful region of rolling green hills and home to quintessential French villages, many having remained unchanged in centuries and boasting fantastic views across the area. An absolutely brilliant day-trip option with the villages about 30-45 min from one another, you can easily hit three locations in the day with time to stop and wander around. Our favourite stop of the day was in Lourmarin, though Gordes was also lovely. We did a day trip around here in the car but the region could be a week’s destination unto itself, and a great spot for some road biking and relaxing. Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.
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Take a tour around the Carmargue to see the flamingo and wild horses
Visit Aix-en-Provence - the city of water and the city of markets. Some kind of market — for fish, flowers, clothes, pottery, spices, jewellery, vegetables, cheese, fruit and more — is open seven mornings a week. Reputedly a beautiful city for an exploring and wandering visit on foot.
Stay for a full week in The Luberon - staying either in Lourmarin or Gordes
Other May Itineraries