Pembrokeshire in Winter with mountain biking and boutique hotel
Itinerary journal of my winter break in Pembrokeshire. Biking, boutique hotel and Michelin food.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 day independent itinerary for Pembrokeshire in South Wales, based on driving from Leeds, in February
Highlights include mountain biking, a trip to St Davids, winter hike with mysterious standing stones, and staying at Grove of Narberth with 4 AA rosette fine-dining
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
We’d never been to Pembrokeshire, and winter felt like the right time to explore somewhere new without the crowds. Most of the UK stays open year-round, even if a few attractions close — so we decided to chance our arm and see what this corner of Wales had to offer off-season.
It was an anniversary trip, so we treated ourselves to a luxury boutique hotel stay — made sweeter by off-peak prices.
The only thing we couldn’t plan, was the weather. All we dared hope for was dry………..we got our wish.
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday?
We definitely enjoyed this trip - a great off-season alternative for visiting South Wales which is much more typically a summertime destination. The UK actually experiences a very mild winter, with temperatures below zero a fairly uncommon ocurrence, so if you can dress accordingly, many of the outdoor exploring options like hiking and biking remain viable activities even in our coldest months. This is what I was banking on for this trip, and it came good.
Does the place live up to expectations?
Yes and no. The hotel was absolutely outstanding - cannot recommend enough. The Pembrokshire region though, was not my favourite place we have visited in the UK , and I do think we have more beautiful and more picturesque countryside, with a greater variety of things to do. In Wales itself, the North has much more dramatic landscapes and other spots offer better mountain biking. None of this is to say it isn’t worth a visit, but I would say for me, other places hold more appeal.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely - it was the perfect blend of active and restful, mucky and refined, and a great option for the off-season. We were lucky with the weather, as we could have gotten very cold and snowy conditions, but also had back-up options in case that happened.
Would I make another visit?
As much as this was a great trip, particularly considering the fact that it was mid-winter, I can’t personally see myself returning to this part of Wales again; other parts of Wales have more dramatic scenery and more history that I would rather visit instead.
WHEN
February
This is very much off-season for February, so quiet, and many of the typical tourist attracttions may be closed over the winter. An ideal time to enjoy the more local-focused activities and hangouts.
We got cold, dry and cloudy. May be freezing with snow.
LIGHT
Short-ish days
Sunrise: 07:39am
Sunset: 17:28pm
10 hours of daylight
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed at Grove of Narberth
This place was marvellous - very possibly the best hotel we have ever stayed in. Boutique, welcoming, incredibly welcoming and stylish decor, and outstanding service with a superlative restaurant on site. Highly highly recommended.
TRAVEL MEANS
Car & Bike
Driving from Yorkshire to Pembrokeshire, with an overnight rest-stop in Snowdonia on the way down. About 6 hours each way.
Mountain Bike for activities whilst there.
SCHEDULE
DAY 1 - Wednesday
Drove Leeds to Coed y Brenin Trail Centre for a half-day mountain biking
Overnight in George III Pub with Rooms
DAY 2 - Thursday
Drove along the Coastal Way from Snowdonia to Narberth
Rest stop in Cardigan at Crwst: very enjoyable visit to this fantastic spot for breakfast, brunch or coffee. Open, industrial, proper bakery - top notch
Walk: Pentre Ifan walking circular - 6.85km
Check-in & Dinner at Grove of Narberth
DAY 3 - Friday
Bike ride: Local route out from Grove of Narberth
Visit St Davids: holder of the title “smallest city in the United Kingdom by population and urban area.” This place is truly teensy, more like a village
Fish & Chip dinner: The Shed, Porthgain. You would never happen upon this place - beautifully positioned at the mouth of a tiny inlet that would once have been a fishing community. Informal, local, buzzing. Recommended
DAY 4 - Saturday
Bike ride: red route at Llys-y-frân reservoir
Dinner: Fernery Restaurant at Grove of Narberth, holder of 4 AA Rosettes. Absolutely outstanding from start to finish.
DAY 5 - Sunday
Drove home
Back-up plans for rainy days
Pembroke Castle (open 10am to 4pm during winter)
National Trust Tudor Merchant's House in Tenby
See the Last Invasion Tapestry at Fishguard Library
See an art exhibition at Oriel Y Parc Landscape Gallery & Visitor Centre
Plans for another trip
Bwlch Nant yr Arian Forest Visitor Centre (touted as one of the most beautiful trail centres in Wales, with a Red Kite feeding centre on site)
Other Countryside Itineraries
Turin - a winter weekend
Cold blue skies, motoring history and a truffley food tour in a city ringed by snow-capped mountains.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night itinerary for Turin, Piedmont, in Northern Italy
Based on flying from Leeds in December
Highlights include a visit to the Museo del Auto (MAUTO) and the rooftop Lingotto race track in the former Fiat factory, a marvellous deluxe food tour and some tasty sweet treats
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
Truthfully, I got a middling kind of enjoyment out of this holiday. Some of my enjoyment was dampened by Covid rules - Omicron swooped in just before we left, adding quite a bit extra testing stress. Once there, everyone everywhere was wearing masks, even outside, which made for a sort of dystopian, walled-off, disconnected feeling to the city for me. Then there was the tedium of having to show your Covid pass everywhere - not into that. Plus the whole city just kind of felt subdued………..just not quite enough atmosphere which I think stemmed from both Covid stuff and the cold winter weather.
I feel the online imagery paints a picture of a properly grand and regal city which is only really true of the very very centre and even then, just a few blocks. The lovely parts are very wide and long, almost boulevard-type streets, with large ornate buildings and piazzas with the most improbable view of the snow-capped alps at the end of the street - they look close enough to walk right up to them. Beyond this though, it just felt like any city - not particularly beautiful, nor original, nor atmospheric. Parts of it were also very ugly; I have never been in any city with as many graffiti-marred buildings as there were in Turin.
Would I make another visit?
Now that I have been, I don’t think I would go back.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
We had a pleasant few days but if asked, my advice would probably be to make Turin a 1-night 2-day stop-off on a longer trip or even a day trip from a stay in the Italian Lakes.
Lessons Learnt
Winter city breaks aren’t universally cosy. Our December trip to Tallinn made me think I love cities in winter — but really, I loved Tallinn. Turin didn’t offer the same warmth or charm, and it reminded me that not all winter city breaks deliver that feeling.
City breaks are losing their spark. I’ve had some brilliant city trips, but they’re starting to feel repetitive. Museums, food tours, shows, restaurants — all good, but increasingly familiar. The energy I used to enjoy in cities feels quieter now, and I think the pandemic has played a part. I’m leaning away from city breaks as the main event. For now, cities might work better as day trips or one-night stop-offs — not the centrepiece. I’m more interested in travel that feels a bit less predictable.
WHEN
December
Expect cold weather
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM from Leeds, with a hop in Amsterdam.
Very easy, with excellent layover times that weren’t too long.
ACCOMMODATION
A beautiful beautiful place, with original painted ceilings from the 1800s and a deliciously reassuring eclectic vibe. It was warm and cosy with all the mod-cons. Recommended.
FOOD
Had coffee and chocolates at Mara Dei Boschi - just on the outskirts of the city centre proper and we got lucky enough with a cold afternoon warmed up with a sunny sky while seated at their outdoor tables
Bought Roman-style pizza from Tellia which was FANTASTIC! Roman pizza is like foccacia that is baked first, then toppings added before another brief bake - it is very different from the round Neapolitan style pizza we are all used to
Went to Pfatisch, a traditional pasticceria just outside the city centre. Highly recommended for traditional miniature pastries with coffee at the bar. I particularly loved the bombolone alla crema
Ate at Michelin-starred Magorabin. This was high-end seven-course tasting menu, with very very attentive and knowledgeable service…….. but I wasn’t bowled over by this. The dining room lacked atmosphere, not helped by covid rules and the food felt a bit too try-hard.
ACTIVITIES
Visited the Automobile Museum
Took a Deluxe Street Food Tour of Turin - this was excellent, the highlight of our trip
Went to the Pinacoteca Agnelli, specifically to gain entry to the famous rooftop Lingotto test track - not bad but not great. We could not walk the length of the test track - blocked off presumably due to some stupid covid rules - so were constrained to just stepping out onto it then back in again
Wandered around Turin itself
Sewing & Wearing
Other City Itineraries
Warsaw - an off-season city break
My plan for 3 wintry nights in Warsaw.
Itinerary At A Glance
3 night independent itinerary for Warsaw in central Poland
Based on flying in and out of Warsaw from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.
Highlights include touring the city in a Communist-era Fiat 126p, experiencing the annual Royal Garden of Light exhibition at the ‘Polish Versailles’ Wilanow Palace, enjoying Warsaw’s new and revived baking culture, and some cross-country skiing in one of the parks outside of Warsaw.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and active pursuits, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Warsaw came onto my radar through a mix of unexpected recommendations. Paul Hollywood mentioned it in one of his baking books as a great spot for baked goods — oddly specific, but it stuck. Then I read a Telegraph piece about Warsaw’s emerging food scene, and Lonely Planet flagged Białowieża Forest as a winter destination, with Warsaw as the nearest airport. Add Poland’s reputation for good value, and the idea started to take shape.
I did some digging and found plenty to justify a city break: interesting eateries in a cuisine I barely knew, museums and tours covering Poland’s layered history - from royalty to Communism to Judaism - plus a modern cultural scene, all at reasonable prices. It’s also less obvious than Kraków for British travellers, which made it feel like a more original choice.
Annual Royal Garden of Light exhibition at Royal Palace at Wilanów
WHEN
January
January is, on average, the coldest month with harshly cold weather and the highest likelihood for snow, so I have made the itinerary with this in mind, focusing on indoor activities and those which can be done come rain, snow or shine.
This is an unusual time to visit but will see the city at its winteriest, see the Royal Garden of Light in the winter dark and better experience the warming effects of Polish vodka.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds Bradford to Warsaw, changing in Amsterdam
ACCOMMODATION
H15 Boutique Hotel, in the Suite or Prestige Suite - this kind of quality is usually outside of my budget but not in Poland!
Smack-bang in Warsaw’s Old Town, a beautiful and very highly recommended duplex in a Gothic building
Petite and perfectly-formed little apartment for 2
Luxe and highly-modern apartment in the business district
SCHEDULE
Polin Museum
Day 1
Try to arrive in the morning
Visit the Polin Museum - documents the history of Polish Jews
Do a food tour with Warsaw Behind the Scenes - travelling in a vintage minibus
Day 2
Attend a cookery class with Polish Your Cooking - The classes take place every Wednesday and Saturday at 10.30 am and every Friday at 6.00 pm
Get to know more about the history of Warsaw and what it was like under the communist regime with a self-drive tour in a Communist-era Fiat 126p (being an all-round car enthusiast, my boyfriend would love this) with WPT1313 Tours
Have dinner at Hala Koszyki Market - Located in an Art Nouveau market hall, it combines a day food market, a night street food market, a and event space all under one roof. Supposedly a hit with locals and is open every weekend from 8am until 1am.
See some live music at the bar underneath the National Opera of Poland’s Grand Theatre
A winter dawn view from the Vistula River
Day 3
Try cross-country skiing in Powsin Park. You can rent equipment in many places. Read more here.
Visit the Royal Palace at Wilanów, in particular, to see the Royal Garden of Lights at night
Book a table for dinner at Rozbrat20, as recommended by the Michelin Travel Guide
Day 4
For breakfast, get real bread from Piwonski Bakery at the Restaurant Femina , Al. Jana Pawła II 38 (Opening hours Mon - Fri: 7.00 - 20.00, Sat: 7.30-15.00)
Wander around Śródmieście - both Old and New Town
Leave in the afternoon
ABOUT WARSAW’S NEIGHBOURHOODS
Warsaw is a rough oval, bissected north-to-south by the Vistula river. The main neighbourhoods are as follows:
Śródmieście - beside the Vistula River, the heart and centre, both Old and New Town. The most central district in Warsaw, Śródmieście is the financial, commercial and cultural centre of the city and boasts the tallest buildings, the most important museums, galleries, restaurants, and theatres. On the west bank of the river runs the Vistulan Boulevard, a contemporary promenade dotted with waterside bars and cafes - not to be missed for a stroll and a bite to eat as you people-watch
Wola - highly urbanized commercial area with lots of skyscrapers. It used to be an industrial district and today is where many multinational corporations have decided to base their offices - as such, many residential buildings have popped up alongside in the form of modern flats. Highly accessible place to stay as an alternative to Śródmieście
Mokotów, Żoliborz and Ochota - all three of these are green, tranquil, and quite fashionable residential districts in easy reach of the city centre, some of the most desirable places to actually live in the city. Not loads and loads to see for a tourist, but one option is Królikarnia in the Mokotów district - a palace and a park for a stroll (and a picnic or icecream in warm weather)
Praga Północ (Praga North) and Praga Południe (Praga South) - Located on the east bank of the Vistula River, the Praga district is the only location in Warsaw where the buildings have remained untouched by the war. This part of the city still has a very bad reputation among many Varsovians because in the past this was a very dangerous and poor area of the city (its nickname was The Bermuda Triangle). Nowadays, especially on its southern side, this district is becoming the home to its alternative, avantgarde culture, a trendy hotspot in Warsaw, with art galleries, artists’ ateliers, cool restaurants, and pubs. However charming and vibrant, this is still the district with the highest unemployment rate and the poorest population, so at least a little care should be taken.
Wilanów - A district far outside the centre of Warsaw, it is famous for its baroque palace, the Wilanów Palace, which is sometimes referred to as the Polish Versailles. Other than this, it features large, wild, underdeveloped areas which allows for outdoor activities such as biking, golf, and kayaking along the Vistula.
Other Winter Itineraries
Tallinn, Estonia - a long wintry break
My journal and itinerary of a winter city break in the Baltics, departing from Manchester. Where we ate, what we saw and how we enjoyed the young-meets-old cosy capital of Estonia.
Itinerary at a glance
5 day itinerary for Tallinn, based on flying in and out of Manchester, in November or December
Highlights include outdoor animal spotting in the snow-covered forest, strolling around Tallinn’s historic locations, eating very very well in Tallinn’s modern restaurants and cafes, and sauna lounging at the apartment.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to expectations?
I’m not at all sure Estonia has any expectations.
What we found was a city that is both highly modern, youthful and vibrant, as well as ancient. There was a calm confidence and a future-looking atmosphere to the whole place yet with an honour and respect for the past, which includes medieval architecture, strong maritime and seafaring industry, and Soviet occupation.
The food, the vibe, even the harsh harsh weather all made for a unique and memorable city break for us. Since we have come home, we have regularly reminisced about the food spots and the sauna in the apartment. I imagine many future city breaks, especially winter ones, will be compared with this one. An ideal and original spot for a couple’s winter city break.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
The city itself is quite small, absolutely perfect to feel like we really ‘did’ it in a long weekend and could access virtually everywhere on foot. This city also does winter very very well. Cold and dark, yes, but cosy with it. Open fires, twinkling lights and basement locales make for welcoming, easeful and intimate places to cuddle up with hot drinks and excellent food.
Stayed for one day too long – 3 full days, 4 nights would have been enough to get a good flavour of the city for the first time. Staying one mile from the city centre in Kalamaja is perfect.
Would I make another visit?
We’d like to return in summer as I’m sure the city has an entirely different vibe.
WHEN
Late November, early December
We had freezing cold, short days, frequently -10C. Fairly strong, biting winds.
TRAVEL MEANS
Lufthansa, from Manchester, changing in Frankfurt
Even though we had to change, the flight times were so good that the journey didn’t end up feeling all that arduous. The airport in Tallinn is very close to the city centre and we took a very easy train ride there and back. Note that changing in Frankfurt is also a breeze - genuinely my favourite airport in Europe to transit through.
Throughout the city, we relied on walking and a little of the tram.
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed in this Airbnb, entitled ‘ARTDEPOO in Kalamaja’
This place was incredible - perfectly located on the edge of town in a trendy area, luxury and modern, extremely well suited for a couple, and with its’ own sauna and fireplace, both of which were extremely welcome for a winter trip. Highly highly recommended.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Travel, settle in
Day 2
Full day Moose-watching tour with Eleri Lopp-Valdma, info@estonianwildlifetours.com. This was essentially the highlight of our trip - not the reason we went to Estonia, but one of the best memories from our stay. Eleri is an experienced wildlife guide and tracker, collected us (very early in the morning!) from our apartment in Tallinn and took us out to the woods outside the city to track moose. We didn't end up seeing any, but the day was still superb (this activity was booked in advance).
Day 3
Explore Tallinn Old Town
Dinner at Uulits - about 5 minutes’ walk from the flat. Burgers are their thing and hands down the best burgers we have ever had. Perhaps most innovative was that the chips were served first as a starter.
Day 4
Wander around Telliskivi, a restored industrial quarter now filled with independent shops and outlets. Just drank coffee, soaked up the vibe, perused the little shops and admired the street art.
Coffee and cake at Faehlmanni Kohvik in Kadriog, on the other side of town. This was in a lovely residential district and we just stumbled onto it and this felt like a properly authentic Estonian experience, far from the usual tourist trail. The place was abuzz with friend groups of all ages and the cake and service were excellent.
Dinner at Ülo - about 10 minutes’ walk from the flat. This place described itself as a ‘vegetarian restaurant that offers some meat options’......this was confusing at first.............but as it turns out, it’s the most genius idea! Mostly plants, but a smattering of meat which essentially turns the traditional idea of restaurant dining upside down by prioritising veg, and I think it’s the future. It was also absolutely delicious.
Day 5
Coffee and cake at Café Levier, and oooooohhh my. Seriously good cakes, bakes and patisserie to rival what you would expect in a high-end patisserie in Paris, but with a fabulous Nordic theme – it’s on Vana-Kalamaja 21 round the corner from the flat.
Seaplane Harbour Lennusadam, a very new and modern museum about Tallinn’s maritime history. My boyfriend was in heaven.
Dinner at Balti Jaama Turg - a market which is very close to the station and about 10 mins walk from the flat. It’s one of those restored market halls where they have introduced funky and new concepts like street food vendors and pop-up events, really good.
NEIGHBOURHOODS AND WHERE TO WANDER
Vanalinn (Estonian for "Old Town") – the historic centre
One of Tallinn’s main claims to fame is that it is one of the best preserved medieval cities in all of Europe. The buildings, streets and outer walls transport you to a fairytale past, and hidden walkways, crooked and historic houses, small alleys, courtyards, and winding side streets all make for a lovely meandering exploration.
My impression was that alongside the evident history, Vanalinn felt achingly cool and independent.
Sit down for something to eat, away from the main streets and squares. The city is small enough that you should not fear getting lost at all, so seek out the smaller streets away from the very main ones that hide many good places for a bite to eat. Estonian’s also do cosy as well as the Danes, and for a winter pitstop, I’m sure you will happen on any number of cafes that welcome you in from the cold with twinkly fairy lights, open fires and warm treats.
Kalamaja – the coolest area with a renovated-industrial vibe
Kalamaja consists of two sides: the industrial heritage left behind by the 20th century which has been repurposed, and quaint wooden housing which used to be for the workers. Today many young families have made this area their home, so walking around Kalamaja gives you a good look at what is some of the most desirable housing in Tallinn.
Our accommodation was here, and it is so well located - about 15 minutes’ walk into the Old Town.
Kadriorg - the greenest and grandest area
In Kadriorg, you will find Peter the Great's gorgeous summer palace, that is now Kadriorg Art Museum, and Kadriorg Palace, with its surrounding park which is the biggest green open space in Tallinn.
The rest of this area is high-end residential. Unless you have a free day to just wander about (as we did), or you specifically want to see the above museum or park, I wouldn’t necessary recommend making a specific detour to this part of town - I just don’t think there is enough here for visitors to make a special trip.
-
Traditional smoke sauna experience with Rangi Saun. Email, tere@estoniansaunas.com (this activity must be booked in advance).
Hotel Viru KGB Spy museum tour – Tallinn was quite the spy hub during the Soviet Era, due to it’s strategic location right next to Russia and also close to Europe.
Free walking tours Show up in front of the Tallinn Tourist Information at Niguliste 2, Tours depart all year round every day at 12:00.
Chocolate-making workshop with Kalev (just outside Old Town in Sadama) Information and registration from Sweets Mastery - rotermann@kalev.eu
Leif have a beer and food pairing menu — including suggestions on what beers to pair with dessert. Uus 31, Tallinn 10111, open Monday – Sunday 12pm to 11pm
Umami (outside of Tallinn city centre in Mustamae) - inside an old house on the edge of a park in the Mustamae district and with its mid-century furniture and local artists’ paintings on the wall, Umami apparently has cool, open, family-friendly vibe which supposedly makes it feel more like you’re going to someone’s for dinner than out to a restaurant.
Other Winter Itineraries
Andalusia by Wheel
Travelling in winter, journal and itinerary of our 7 night stay in Andalusia - starting with a Seville city break followed by biking around Vejer de la Frontera in Cadiz province.
Andalusia by Wheel
Exploring Seville and Vejer by bike and cuisine - off the main tourist track, in the hush of late winter when the crowds crowds fade to a murmur and orange blossom scents the air.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 day independent itinerary for Andalusia, 3 nights in Seville and 4 nights in Vejer de la Frontera
Based on flying from Leeds into Malaga, in March
Highlights include authentic tapas walking tour and live flamenco show in a very small theatre, meandering through the tiny lanes of Seville’s barrios, hiring scooters for an independent scoot around the city, and e-biking around Cadiz province.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to expectations?
Yes, yes, yes and yes.
Seville is probably on the hitlist of many a traveller and now that I have been, I’d say it deserves such a coveting. Probably the most architecturally beautiful and sensorially-stimulating city I have ever been to - the buildings were a visual delight, it smelled of orange blossom and it is literally filled with the lingering sounds of flamenco guitar.
We found history and culture aplenty, with marvellous food (as long as you stay away from the tourist spots) and great drink.
Vejer de la Frontera is one of the white hilltop towns (Pueblos Blancos in Spanish) of the Serranía de Ronda region. The most famous of these towns is Ronda, but there are many to choose from and I chose Vejer for it being one of the slightly lesser-known ones while still being one of the more sizeable and visitor-orientated. We found it to be beautiful, welcoming, and an ideal base for e-biking its surrounds. The biggest surprise was how verdant the area around Vejer was; we expected arid and instead was rewarded with scenes not dissimilar to the green and rolling hills of the Yorkshire Dales so it is a surprise that this isn’t a more known cycling destination. It’s an ideal location for being on two wheels. My boyfriend stated that Vejer was the best place we have ever been cycling – and it was absolutely superb. For anyone vaguely interested in cycling while on holiday, leisurely or hardcore, there is much to enjoy hereabouts.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Definitely. This city does winter very very well - mild and sunny with blue skies, pleasant but not hot. Don’t make the mistake of thinking you should go in shorts and flip flops - you’ll not only look like a tourist, you’ll also be shivering in the shade.
An ideal spot for a March city break with minimal crowds and beautifully sunny and mild skies; the ideal counterpoint to the cold and grey of Northern England at this time.
3+4 also worked extremely well, with the right amount of time in each location and an opportunity to extend a city break into a week long trip with the second, more countryside location. As a framework, I will look to replicate this again.
Two points of note: Doing two tours in Seville meant the guides repeated similar historical anecdotes and facts – probably best to do just one tour otherwise it can start sounding repetitious. Duplex Asilah wasn’t the ideal type of accom for bikes as it was tiny so we had to ask the reception to store them for us. Not at all the fault of the accom, but rather something I need to consider when booking a place to stay when we need room to store bikes.
Would I make another visit?
Rare is the place that touches me so much that I want to visit again, to get deeper under its skin; Cadiz province is one of those rare places. We had the most fantastic trip from start to finish.
If we went to Seville again, we’d stay in Triana for a slightly more authentic experience, though we felt we got a good flavour of the city in our 2.5 days so I suspect a revisit is a while away.
I very much want to return to Cadiz province to see and experience some more of its loveliness. Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Tarifa, Cádiz, Castellar de la Frontera in the Alcornocales, and Jerez de la Frontera are now on my hitlist.
WHEN
Early March
Shoulder season with mild weather, fewer crowds, orange blossom in Seville
We got blue skies, still winds, sunny. Warm in the sunshine, but you needed coats, long sleeves, socks and covered toes for the cooler mornings, evenings and shade.
LIGHT
Moderate Days
Sunrise: 7:45am to 7:20am
Sunset: 7:10pm to 7:17pm
Approx. 11–12 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Direct flight from Leeds into Malaga, with Jet 2
We hired a car for the entirety of our trip, and it would be difficult, (though not impossible) to do without it.
Seville is a 2.5 hour drive from Malaga airport; Vejer is about a 1h 40m drive from Seville, then Malaga airport is about 2h 15m from Vejer.
We hired an e-bike for the entirety of our stay in Vejer from Bicicletas Francisco who also handily provided us with some local maps and biking routes.
ACCOMMODATION
Seville - Suites Murillo Alcazar (in Barrio Santa Cruz)
superb location right next door to the Alcazar
ideally walkable for pretty much everything
comfy bed
plenty of space for two people
felt a teensy bit rundown and the breakfast was ‘meh’.
Vejer de la Frontera - La Casa del Califa in the self-catering Duplex Asilah
a collection of real townhouses that have been brought together to make a hotel
gorgeous location with fab service
an excellent restaurant
lacked any soundproofing so we found it was a bit noisy into the evening and in the early morning.
SCHEDULE
Alcázar entrance
Seville - Day 1 to 4
Day 1
Fly: into Malaga airport (convenient flight schedule, running all year from most UK airports, even regional ones)
Collect hire car
Drive: to Seville, 2h 11m driving, 210km
Check-in, settle in, collect a few groceries
Day 2
Stroll: through Barrio Santa Cruz
Lunch: Torres y Garcia, Calle Harinas, 2, 41001 Sevilla
Very modern and hip café right in central Seville but not a single tourist in it. Surprisingly large, and the food was both healthy and cooked with care.
Tour: Sunset City bike tour with Sevilla Bike Tours
Very authentic tour around the city including the outer neighbourhoods that you would be unlikely to see on a short city break. Sunset felt like a good choice as the Spaniards seem to come alive in the early evening and the streets were buzzing. Excellent and passionate guide too.
Note that Seville is almost pancake flat, so this is easy for anyone to do.
Dinner with Drinks: Taberna Alvaro Peregil, Mateos Gago, 22, 41004 Sevilla
Teensy little tapas bar on a street of restaurants made for tourists. Ignore the rest and go here for a taste of that classic Seville experience. Menu is classic, simple, straightforward and tasty.
Day 3
Lunch: Crustum Panem, Calle Puente y Pellón, 24, 41004 Sevilla.
Properly good bakery selling all manner of authentic baked goods. We had empanadas and bread. Top marks for a lunchtime snack.
Evening: Tapas y Flamenco tour with MIMO.
This was superb and probably the best thing we did during our stay in Seville. We visited a small flamenco school in Triana for an authentic and intimate flamenco 45 minute performance of two dancers, one singer and one guitarist. I have chills even now, months after the trip, just thinking about how the performance made me feel.
This was no tourist thing; this felt like the real deal.
These performers exhibited their craft and training with feeling and passion, and the audience was a mixture of locals and tourists in the know. We were then taken off to 3 tapas establishments in Triana and our knowledgeable guide ordered for us - food and drink. Everything was delicious and we left a bit tipsy and fully full like a full thing on full day. 11 out of 10 for this tour.
Day 4
Tour: Alcazar tour with Feel the City tours.
Good tour of the Alcazar, that filled in the historical detail and importance of the building that we would miss if we just went in solo (which you can do if you want to). The only thing about this is that it was very ‘classically touristy’ and the guide’s script sounded memorised and a bit rote. Good, just not outstanding.
Lunch: Gocho Neo Charcuteria, Calle Puente y Pellón, 19, 41004 Sevilla
Teeny little shop for a fresh ham sandwich, with the jamon sliced right in front of you. We had one with a bag of crisps and it was delish.
Drive to Vejer: 160km, 1h 45m driving
Afternoon: Arrive and settle into accommodation, explore Vejer’s cobbled streets and craft shops.
Views from La Breña y Marismas del Barbate Natural Park
Vejer de la frontera & surrounds - Day 4 to 8
Day 5
Ride: Vejer to Barbate loop, 40km
Combined on-road and off-road circular cycle route, Vejer to Barbate, about 40km round trip. Out to the coast, with a stop for coffee in Barbate, this took in one of the smallest nature parks in Andalusia - the Breña y Marismas del Barbate Nature Park. It contains five different ecosystems: marine, cliff, pine grove, marshland and dunes. Only suitable for off-road bikes.
Dinner: Restaurante El Califa
Restaurant within our hotel and about 6 steps from our door.
This place has quite the reputation, and deservedly so. We ate here on two out of four evenings; the menu selection was superb, the service outstanding, the setting elegant and the food sublime. The best food we ate on the whole trip. You can also book in to eat here even if you aren’t a resident of the hotel.
Day 6
Ride & Lunch: Vejer to Medina-Sidonia, about 70km round trip
Combined on-road and off-road circular cycle route, Vejer to Medina-Sidonia, about 70km round trip which even on an e-bike was a full day journey for the round trip. Medina-Sidonia is another one of the white hilltop towns; the journey to and from it was a beautiful rolling sojourn and the climb into town a punisher. We stopped for lunch in Medina before heading back.
Dinner: El Campero, Avda. de la Constitución local 5C, 11160 Barbate.
Restaurant specialising in the red tuna fished right off shore. The service and the food here was excellent. Most importantly, the waiters were all very knowledgeable and make recommendations about the menu which is useful as many of the tuna cuts and dish descriptions will seem entirely foreign
Day 7
Ride: Vejer to El Palmar de Vejer, about 30km round trip
Combined on-road and off-road circular cycle route, Vejer to El Palmar de Vejer, about 30km round trip. Most leisurely of the three routes
Drinks on the beach: El Palmar
the day was a stunner so we hung out at one of the surfer-type bars that line the beach at El Palmar. The place was absolutely buzzing with all kinds of folk - motorcyclists, families, surfers, groups of friends, groups of families. We had a few bevvies and soaked up the sunshine. Bliss.
Dinner: Restaurante El Califa
Day 8
Drive: to Malaga, 2h 30m driving, 200km
Fly home
Other Twin Centre Itineraries
