Athens, Attica & Pelopponese - spring riding
Itinerary At A Glance
10-night independent itinerary for Athens and the Argolis region of the Pelopponese, in March.
Based on flying from Manchester into Athens
Highlights include a private walking tour about the philosophers of Ancient Greece, modern bakeries, the Temple of Poseidon, coastal rides and a Mycenean fortress and tomb from at least 1000 years BCE.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why Athens in early Spring?
Many think Greece is a place for summer holidays, but I wanted to avoid the crowds and hopefully catch a little early warmth.
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
I think expectations about Athens is all about The Acropolis and The Parthenon. Do we solely associate Athens with these and these alone? Do we all think Athens feels like one giant ancient structure? Do we think these modern day life is conducted within the remnants of Ancient Athens? If so, we are wrong.
What we found was a huge sprawling city, which, for the most part, is work-a-day, humdrum and very busy. Did you know that fully half of Greece’s population live in the capital? It’s of a size with Berlin, Los Angeles and Dubai. Big. The vibe is eclecticism - brutal 60s buildings rub up against neo-classical mansions against ultra-modern sleek glass low-rises against 2400-year old ruins. Are there many other cities boasting the chance to visit relatively well-intact ruins of civilisations long past? Not many at all. This opportunity is what makes Athens oh so special.
I would describe it as pulsing, unfinished, open. Feels like its becoming very trendy but no-one is talking about it.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Well, if not perfect.
We hired bikes from the very start, in Athens, expecting we’d do some biking on the days we weren’t planning to visit the city - this didn’t happen much. Between the rain, the busy busy roads, and our desire to chill out, biking only happened in Argolis; it would have made more sense to only hire bikes there.
Is this a repeat destination, or a once‑was‑enough experience?
Repeat, for sure. I could go back to Athens again, for another 2-day jaunt before heading off to another part of Greece.
What stayed with me once I was home?
Snow-capped peaks beyond an azure shoreline. Syrup-y desserts. That it really does rain in Greece too.
WHEN
Late March
Shoulder season. fewer tourists, good availability. Note that 25th March is Greek Independence Day, a National Holiday.
Expect mild and changeable, with a fair chance of rain. Daytime highs of 12–20°C, cooler evenings, occasional rain, and some sunny spells.
Spring flowers are beginning to bloom.
LIGHT
Moderate Days
Sunrise: 6:33am to 7:00am
Sunset: 6:23pm to 7:46pm
Approx. 12-13 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Direct flight from Manchester into Athens
(regular flight schedule, running few times a week)
Hire car
Hire an bike from GR Cycling (tri, road, MTB, e-bike and hybrid options)
ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
*note that parking in Athens is considered notoriously difficult, so coming with a car and bikes, I decided it would be easier to stay on the Riviera, and travel into Athens by tram
Glyfada (Athenian Riviera)
We stayed in this apartment. Quiet outer city residential neighbourhood with easy parking. Bakeries and shops in walking distance. My only qualm was a lack of some kitchen equipment, which I suggested the host add.
Nafplio
We stayed in this apartment. Superb. Generous space for two people, with a balcony on two sides, one of which catches a delicious late afternoon golden hour.
SCHEDULE
Athens - Day 1 to 5
Day 1
Fly: into Athens airport
Collect hire car and bike
Check-in, settle in
Dinner: at the residence
Day 2
A morning relaxing: chill out at home or wander for a coffee
Ride: Glyfada cycle path out to Vouliagméni Lake. About 40km. Flat, paved, sea views.
Dinner: at the residence
Day 3
Brunch: Akra. Superb. Modern, delicious, and buzzing. You are literally sat inside the kitchen with activity all around. Over fire at the back where they are smoking octopus, where you can sit at a coffee bar just in front of the chefs.
Museum: The Acropolis Museum
Coffee: Courtyard cafe at the Numismatic Museum, in the fading afternoon sunlight
Evening Tour with food: Greek Food walking tour
Day 4
Drive & See: Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounio
Dinner: at the residence
Day 5
Morning Tour: this private walking tour, covering the myths and philosophers of Greece. Truly excellent. A highly knowledgeable guide (John). One of the best city tours we have ever done. Intelligent. Thought-provoking. You will also walk around several of the main neighbourhoods on John's route, and he fills it all up with interesting historical, philosophical and consequential information.
Afternoon: The Parthenon & Acropolis. Can you go to Athens and not do this? Even in the rain….
Bakery snack: Ergon 72H Bakehouse. A hole-in-the-wall bakery. The most pillowy cinnamon buns we have ever eaten. Highly recommended.
Dinner: at the residence
Ideas for another visit
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Ergon Bakehouse
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Athens
Meze Class at The Greek Kitchen,Thursdays and Sundays 7:30pm
Unexpected Athens walking tour, start at 9:30am
Anafiotika neighborhood, Panathenaic Stadium, The Ancient Agora of Athens and Temple of Hephaestus
Ferry & Ride: cross to Aegina Island in the morning (sailings every 2h-ish). Island loop, 45km, 700m climbing. Try the famous Aegina pistachio in baked goods and patisserie at Melenio or Eakion. Return to Athens in the afternoon, (sailings every 2h-ish)
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Nafplio - Day 6 to 10
Day 6
Drive to Nafplio: 240km, 3h 30m driving
Stop-off: Piraeus for a wander and a spot of lunch
Dinner: Lagkatidis Taverna - rustic, comforting Greek food. Delicious - watch for the portions though - massive.
Day 7
Ride: out to Tolo & back; about 30km. Easy loop, quiet roads through the orange groves, with gorgeous coastal views.
Dinner: at residence
Day 8
A morning relaxing: chill out at home
Tour: Mycenae Private Tour with a guide. Worth it.
Dinner: at the residence
Day 9
Drive & Ride: Drove to Ermioni, for a 40km loop around the southern coast of Argolis. Beautiful. Slightly hilly. The drive there and back is also a treat, over the mountain passes of Argolis. Well paved and sighted, offering spectacular views across the peninsula, from mountain to sea.
Dinner: at the residence
Day 10
Beach: Drive down to Tolo beach for a bit of relaxing
Dinner: at the residence
Day 11
Drive: to Athens, 2h 35m driving, 240km
Fly home
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