Quimper - an off-season active itinerary for Spring
A 7-night springtime itinerary with medieval Quimper as the base. Cider, cycling, springtime walks, crepes and art.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 night independent itinerary for the very northwest tip of France, using Quimper as the base
Based on travelling at the very end of winter/start of spring, driving there using the channel tunnel.
Highlights include discovering the Pont-Aven school of art, eating crepes in their cultural homeland, coastal biking
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
This is an alternative option for exploring Brittany in its off-season, using Quimper as the main base, for easy access to city, country, coast and culture, with all activities within a 1 hour drive or less.
Every image you will ever see for Brittany tourism - every website, every accommodation listing - will show Brittany in the summer time, bathed in gorgeous sunshine. It’s true that early spring is unpredictable in the northwest corner of Europe; we can get everything from blue skies and frigid air, to bouncing rain, to snow, freezing cold and biting winds, to very warm and sunny days hovering around 20°C. You just don’t know what you’re gonna get.
This makes it a brilliant month for a road trip, and a great month for venturing outside (dressed accordingly!) If the weather is just too much, there’s plenty indoor cultural action to amuse too.
Quimper is considered by many to be the ‘cultural heart’ of Brittany, and stretching from the coast to inland, there is the Parc naturel régional d'Armorique, a huge natural park with rugged granite peaks, moors & dense forests. Due to unpredictable weather, indoorsing will be a key fallback, so staying close to a city means cultural and foodie activities are in easy reach for when the weather just isn’t playing ball.
WHEN
April
Like the UK, April can be either cold and snowing, or warm and sunny, Take clothing options and plan activities that account for these unknowable circumstances.
TRAVEL MEANS
Drive from Leeds, using the Channel Tunnel crossing + Road Bike
Drive time is 12.5hrs. Alternative, similar travel time is to cross using the ferry from Plymouth to Roscoff
ACCOMMODATION
Near Quimper
Quimper’s countryside, being more inland, has much more of a ‘cosy’ comforting feel to it than the brazen and rocky boldness of the coast around Brest.
3 bed home on the banks of the River Odet
Auberge des Glazicks - Michelin-starred restaurant-with-rooms about 30 mins drive from Quimper
Hôtel Ginkgo - Just outside the city centre, boutique hotel with some rooms giving views over the River Odet
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Drive to Quimper - this is a 12.5 hour journey. Pack the car with supplies and plan the route with opportunities for break points
Check-in
Collect groceries
Day 2
Brunch or Lunch - with local cider at Le Sistrot
Bike ride - out to Parc botanique de Cornouaille (about 2hr bike ride round-trip)
Day 3
Crepe workshop - for the morning activity, book onto a crepe-making workshop in Benodet (25 min drive from Quimper)
Embroidery art - in the afternoon, visit the School of Embroidery Art by Pascal Jaouen in Quimper where they have regular exhibitions of artistic embroidery
Day 4
Relax - take the morning to chill
Walk - in the early-afternoon, take a walk in the Bois du Nevet (25 min drive from Quimper)
Evening Drinks - try local brew at La Baleine Déshydraté in Quimper
Day 5
All day bike ride - Start in the morning, bike out to Pont-Aven (4 hour bike ride round trip) and stop in at Le Musée de Pont-Aven to see their considerable collection of works from this area, most dating from mid-to-late 19th Century
Day 6
Walk - Take a morning walk in the Huelgoat Forest (50 min drive from Quimper)
Relax - Take the afternoon to chill out, read, draw, chat
Day 7
Spa day - Book a spa day of thalasso therapy at Valdys Spa in Dourarnez (30 min drive from Quimper)
Day 8
Drive home
Other April Itineraries
Krakow - learning Polish in Winter
My itinerary journal for 9 frigid nights spent in Krakow learning Polish, in January. Heavy snow and hard pronunciation…..also excellent pierogi and a delightful surrealist art find.
Why Krakow?
Krakow is perhaps the jewel in Poland’s touristic crown. It is a former capital of Poland, famed in particular for it’s architecture that miraculously escaped destruction in World War II, with that classic ‘chocolate box’ cuteness of Central European cities.
I have it in my head that Poland is the up-and-coming cool place to be. I am convinced this country has everything to offer the savvy traveller who likes to be off-the-beaten track but not out-in-the-wilderness. I think its got all the same draws as more well-known destinations like France, Croatia or Italy - great accommodation options, interesting cities which combine culture, history and modernity, pronounced seasons, and varied landscapes including coast, forests, lake districts, rolling greenery and mountains. The only lack seems to be beaches for sunbathing (I know many would argue there is the northern Baltic coast, but Baltic beaches aren’t known for their sunbathing potential). It is very easy to get to from the UK, with many flight options to Poland’s cities. To top it off nicely, the prices are much cheaper than should be expected elsewhere in Western Europe.
The trickiest thing for most is probably the language barrier…………and I love to learn languages and give myself new challenges so I thought, “hey, why not learn some Polish?!” So that’s what this trip was about - a one-week intensive beginners Polish course in Krakow.
Itinerary At A Glance
9 night language learning independent itinerary for Krakow in southern Poland
Travelling in January - specifically to see the city at its winteriest, and better experience the warming effects of Polish vodka.
Based on flying in and out of Krakow from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam
Highlights include an intensive Polish language course, pierogi-making workshop, Jewish history walk and the Unesco Salt Mines.
Based on a solo traveller, with a focus on immersive language learning, some leisurely cultural activities and tours suitable for travelling alone, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.
Honest verdict
Did the place live up to hype or expectations?
Krakow has a reputation for being pretty, and it was definitely pretty, though not quite as pretty as Tallinn for my money. There is plenty to do though I did find it on the brink of being a bit too touristy.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
9 nights was way too much for a city of this size, and only worked because I was attending a language course. Krakow can easily be enjoyed in 2 to 3 nights; it is small enough even for a 24 hour stopover.
Winter was harsh, very harsh, -12C on a few of the days and hardly ever above freezing. This made it uncomfortably bitter and hard to enjoy any activity that involved being outside, even just wandering around. I think without the comforts of a cosy home, friends and family to enjoy the indoors with, it wasn’t super pleasant being there in the height of winter for me. A better itinerary would be for the milder months.
Would I make another visit? Would I recommend it?
Now that I have been, I would say Poland is definitely worth visiting……….but not in the winter.
I can’t see myself returning to Krakow, though would definitely return to Poland but only in the spring or summer.
WHEN
January
January is, on average, the coldest month with the highest likelihood for snow, so I made the itinerary with this in mind, focusing on indoor activities and those which can be done come rain, snow or shine.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds, changing in Amsterdam
ACCOMMODATION
Fantastic apartment, very neat, modern and well-located, just 15 mins walk from the Main Square and 10 from the main train station. I found the desk and monitor a useful addition to my stay, so a small detail that could be helpful for business travellers or remote workers.
Anna Guntner, Polish surrealist painter
ACTIVITIES
One-week Polish language intensive course with Together School - note I chose to shorten their two-week offering
Anna Guntner exhibition - mid-century Polish surrealist painter at Nowa Huta Cultural Centre
City food tour - with AirBnB experiences. This was marvellous
Tour of Unesco World Heritage Site of Wieliczka Salt mine with Krakow Explorers
Took a luxury lunch and spa experience at The Copernicus Spa by L’Occitane in the historic Gothic cellars of the Copernicus Hotel
Jewish History walk - interesting and of course, poignant
Learnt to make traditional pierogi ruskie on this very personal AirBnB experience with Olga - this was fantastic
ABOUT KRAKOW’S NEIGHBOURHOODS
The main neighbourhoods for tourist activity are as follows:
Stare Miasto - the heart and centre, the Old Town. The most central district, the financial, commercial and cultural centre of the city with the tallest buildings, the most important museums, galleries, restaurants, and theatres. It is shaped almost like a lightbulb, with Planty Park encircling pretty much the entirety of its border
Kazimierz - just south of Stare Miasto, the funky, alternative and bohemian district, and the old Jewish Quarter
Podógrze - South again of Kazimierz, and across the Vistula river, another district vying for the title of funkiest and most up-and-coming. This one has that industrial warehouse regeneration vibe about it
Kleparz - just north of the Stare Miasto, mostly upscale residential, this is where tourists can see and experience life lived as a wealthy Cracovian
Ideas for another visit
Bike routes throughout Poland can be found here
For a more bike-concentrated trip, bike maps can be purchased here from Compass (though note they are only in Polish)
Plan Poland is a holiday company specialising in tailor-made holidays in Poland and they have the most fantastic blog with a wide variety of information about the whole country, including specifics about where to go biking, kayaking and the different cities - should I decide to take a summer biking trip, I will almost certainly approach these guys for an itinerary
Hotel Galery69 Design Hotel in the Masuria Lake District
Attend a 4-day haute couture sewing course at KSA (Kracow School of Art & Fashion Design)
Animal-tracking in the Białowieża Forest with Wild Poland
Schindler’s Factory - As immortalised in the film Schindler’s List, Oskar Schindler managed to save many Jews through his enamel factory, that he had converted to make ammunition and mess kits to ensure the Germans would not be suspicious of his activities. Schindler's Factory now houses a museum about Kraków under Nazi occupation alongside a contemporary Polish art museum, MOCAK, which exhibits national and international artists.
Eats for Winter
Småland, Sweden: a leisure cycling travel itinerary
Travelling in summer, my imagined itinerary for 7 nights in Smaland, Sweden. Cycling amid lakes, islands, country lanes, and deep forests.
Why Småland?
Research for this trip started with a friend, who ran an ultra-marathon around the island archipelago of Stockholm, extolling the virtues and beauties of this region. So I set a-looking for a possible trip to Sweden.
Turns out, the archipelago around Stockholm is famed for its beautiful maze of waterways and islands, peppered with second homes and cabins owned by city residents in pretty coastal towns for weekend trips and outdoor activities. While stunning, the many islands often means travel by boat and my other half gets badly seasick so I started to rule it out……………but Sweden looked too much like the exact kind of place I like to holiday, so I continued doggedly researching.
Gothenburg, Värmland, Lake Vänern, Öland………on and on I went, looking at places to stay and things to do, trying to spot the one that just seemed to tick all our boxes……….until a chance stumble had me in Småland and that set my tail wagging.
It is a land of deep forests, sparkling lakes and teensy cities punching above their weight with foodie and cultural scenes to rival that of larger urban centres. There are proper MTB facilities at various trail centres around the region. Other fun facts include that IKEA grew from being a small mail order company in the forests of Småland to the global phenomenon it is now, and between Växjö and Kalmar on the coast is the famed ‘Kingdom of Crystal’ - a string of glass-blowing communities reinvigorated, revitalised and turned into a unique tourist destination. Many describe this place as all of Sweden in miniature.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 night independent itinerary for Småland in southern Sweden
Based on flying in and out of Gothenburg from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include biking the countryside, outdoor forest dining, experiencing the traditions of the glassblowing villages and some art locations celebrating the Swede’s famed sensitivity to great design
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
June or July
For the driest, warmest and lightest months, but I would still plan for mixed weather.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds into Gothenburg, changing in Amsterdam
This trip will also require car hire for the entirety of the trip, along with bike hire which is capable of handling gravel surfaces
ACCOMMODATION
To make the most of the weather, the views and the outdoorsy nature of this trip, a traditional Swedish summer house - ferienhaus - would be my top pick ideally with some outdoor space. Either Gränna, Jönköping, or the stretch of land between them would make a good base. In order of preference:
Gorgeous and modern ferienhaus on the edge of a small lake between Jönköping and Växjö
Apartment in a listed building in Gränna, overlooking Lake Vättern
Modern countryside ferienhaus between Jönköping and Växjö
Apartment on the Smålandsgården estate in Gränna
IMPORTANT NOTE FOR BOOKING! Summer accommodation in the Swedish countryside books up very very quickly - note that its is also very common for self-catering homes to only allow a minimum of a 1 week stay, and not uncommon for them to enforce a 2 week minimum stay. This is a holiday where you will need to plan well in advance and get booking.
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - arrive
Try to arrive in the morning
Day 2 - biking Visingsö Island on Lake Vättern and explore Gränna
In the morning. head to Visingsö Island to bike the 25 km island perimeter path which takes between 2 and 3 hours. Lush oak forests and farmland co-exist on Visingsö, and along the way are several possibilities for a picnic break. More info found here
Explore the town of Gränna in the afternoon and stay for dinner
Day 3 - Experience the Crystal Kingdom (Glasriket in Swedish)
The Glass Kingdom is a cluster of villages between the cities of Kalmar and Växjö, which has been the centre of the country’s world-renowned glassblowing community since 1742. There is the Kosta Boda Art Gallery, designed by Bruno Mathsson in the early 1950s. At the Glassworks in Målerås, you can have a go at glassmaking, wander the walking/biking path and, most excitingly, partake in a traditional ‘hot shop herring’ evening meal (hyttsill in Swedish). Hyttsill evenings date back to the days when the glassworks acted as a focal point for the local community – an after-hours meeting place for workers, hunters from the surrounding forest and, not least, wandering tramps. When the glassblowers go home for the day, long tables are set up in the glassworks and the chef fries salted herring in the cooling pipe – where earlier in the day, finished glassware has been slowly cooled down. He brings trays of crispy bacon and isterband sausages to the table. Jacket potatoes, genuine Småland ostkaka pudding. Glasses are filled with chilled beer from the basement… Soon, the singing creates a warm atmosphere in the smeltery
Day 4 - biking Åsnen National Park and dinner in Växjö
About 40 minutes south of Växjö, is the Åsnen National Park, the newest in Sweden. Spend the day cycling its lanes, forests and lakesides, using this helpful site for inspiration on routes
Have dinner in Växjö, whose culinary scene rivals that of any larger city. Five of its restaurants are featured in the White Guide (Scandinavia’s leading restaurant guide), and the hotel/restaurant PM & Vänner was awarded a Michelin star for its modern take on Småland cuisine.
Day 5 - long day ride loop from Jönköping to Bunn and back
90km round trip on quiet country roads, this loop apparently takes you through some of loveliest countryside, into the famed village of Bunn, and back into Jönköping. Budget for 6-7 hours on the bike with more info here.
Day 6 - foraging and forest dining
Make a booking at one Smaland’s Edible Country Tables using this guide for what to forage from the Sweden countryside
Day 7 - long day ride loop between along the southern edge of Lake Vättern
70km round trip through the apple orchards and country lanes between Jönköping and Gränna
Day 8 - final breakfast and head home
Have one final breakfast of coffee and kanelbulle (cinnamon bun)
Try to leave in the afternoon
Back-up plans for rainy days
Longest zipline in Europe at Little Rock Lake
Visit the IKEA Museum in Älmhult, on the central southern border of the region
Take an Elf Safari at Grönåsen Elk and Livestock Park
Visit Vandalorum Art & Design Museum in Varnamo (between Jönköping & Växjö)
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Isterband (pork, barley and potato sausage) with pickled beetroot and dill-stewed potatoes is a classic Småland dish.
Other Summer Stuff
An itinerary for Santa Fe - atomic bomb history, mountain biking and art
10 nights in New Mexico combining art, activity and history.
Itinerary At A Glance
10 night independent itinerary for New Mexico in the central Southwest of the USA
Based on travelling Leeds to Santa Fe with a hop in Amsterdam and Atlanta. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include visiting the Manhattan Project Trinity Site where the atomic bomb was tested and the town where it was developed, hikes around the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, mountain biking around Santa Fe and ancient glyphs and rock art from around 1500AD
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Like so much of my travel planning, this started with an offhand comment from a friend - she said New Mexico was the most surprisingly beautiful stop on her west-to-east US road trip. That was enough to spark my interest.
Santa Fe stood out quickly. Its history is layered: once home to Indigenous Pueblo peoples, later ruled by the Spanish Crown, then part of Mexico, and eventually ceded to the USA after the Mexican-American War. That mix of influences shows up everywhere — in the food, the architecture, the art — and gives the city a distinct cultural flavour.
Today, Santa Fe is the highest capital city in the US, known for its celebration of Pueblo heritage, its thriving arts scene, and its access to outdoor pursuits. Add to that New Mexico’s links to atomic history and space exploration — both of interest to my boyfriend — and it felt like a destination with real depth.
WHEN
October
It would work equally well for Spring - April - both with pleasantly warm days and cool evenings.
Importantly, the Trinity Site (where the first atomic bomb was detonated) is only open for visitors on the first Saturday of April or October; this will be a crucial part of our trip and so I would design the itinerary around being able to visit this.
Conversely to the UK weather, summer is the wettest season as well as being swelteringly hot and humid. I would avoid visiting at this time of year
TRAVEL MEANS
With KLM, Leeds LBA to Albuquerque ABQ, with stops in Amsterdam and Atlanta
Car hire will be essential for the duration of the trip in Santa Fe
ACCOMMODATION
Contemporary, minimal & artful pied-a-terre
Beautifully modern casita minutes from downtown
Clean and modern casita outside of downtown
Gorgeous traditional cottage in central Santa Fe with lovely rock garden
Sauna, hot tub and spectacular views in this traditional casita
Modern bungalow just outside the centre
Stunning cottage with gorgeous gardens
ACTIVITIES
Visit the Trinity Site
The whole reason for the trip, the Trinity Site (where the first atomic bomb was detonated) is open for visitors just twice a year - on the first Saturday of April or October. There is a coach tour departing from the Space Hall of Fame, which includes transport, snacks and entry to the museum afterwards.
Visit Los Alamos
Take a day trip to Los Alamos to learn more about its important role in the development of the atomic bomb with this self-guided walking tour of the town and visit the Bradbury Science Museum, with its atomic bomb replicas and interactive exhibits of the World War II Manhattan Project (40 mins drive each way from Santa Fe)
Hike Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument
About 40 miles south of Santa Fe, lies the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument* where visitors can hike the site to take in the unusual rock formations.
*potential misinterpretation alert: in the USA, ‘National Monuments’ are nationally significant lands and waters set aside for permanent protection which is unlike how we use the word ‘monument’ in the UK, which usually refers to a building or structure, that is of historical importance or interest.
Book to see a performance at the Santa Fe Opera house
A unique outdoor high-calibre performance venue with views of the Sangre de Cristo foothills and the Jemez Mountains is only open during the summer, and the programming is focused on the art of opera
Book a ride on the Cumbres & Toltec railway
A narrow-gauge heritage railroad that operates on 64 miles of track between Antonito, Colorado, and Chama, New Mexico, through some of the most spectacular scenery in the Rocky Mountain West
WHERE TO WANDER
There are quite a few mountain biking options close by to Santa Fe - info here and here - we will probably spend at least 3 days biking
Contemplate some contemporary art at SITE Santa Fe
Visit the only museum in the world focused on wax - It’s a broader medium than you might think - from the use of ancient beeswax to the modern crayon, wax can be scuplted, painted with, drawn with and even used as a surface to receive transfer from photography. The Museum of Encaustic Art in Cerillos, just outside of Santa Fe, has the largest, most extensive, and best represented encaustic art collection in America.
Enjoy a spa day at the thermal springs of Ojo Santa Fe Spa
Stroll along Canyon Road in downtown Santa Fe - 1.5 kilometers long, the strip packs in over 100 galleries and boutiques. It’s considered to be one of the most concentrated street of art galleries in the world.
Visit La Cieneguilla Petroglyph site for a 2 mile hike to see ancient glyphs of birds, animals, fish, insects, plants, and humans as well as geometric and abstract designs, likely created by the between 1200 and 1600 AD
Take a day trip to Taos via the High Road and the Low Road - round trip of approximately 165 miles
Other North America Itineraries
Hanover and The Harz Mountains - a Spring travel plan for mountain biking and city break
Travelling in spring, departing from Leeds, my imagined itinerary for 7 nights of exploring in Lower Saxony.
Why Hanover & The Harz Mountains?
The start of my research into The Harz Mountains was inspired by this article from Culture Trip; I did a bit more digging and found what looks to be a perfect region to explore on a bike.
The main focus of the trip will be the Harz Mountains and I’ve plumbed for one of the most obvious towns as the base - Quedlinburg. This little city is a UNESCO World Heritage site owing to it being the burial site for the first German King, and it was Germany's first capital and an important city during the Middle Ages. Now, it is a well-known tourist destination and is usually the favoured spot for a visit to the region. Looks to be a great base for a bit of biking around the Harz, while also offering up options for historical activities and dining.
Hanover (spelt Hannover in German) is very simply the nearest city and the most obvious airport - so I decided to make it a part of the itinerary. Much of their visitor marketing is geared towards the city as a business destination but reading between the lines, I found more than enough history, culture and uniquely Hanoverian experiences for us to enjoy a few days getting to know this city. The Aldstadt (German for ‘Old Town’) is full of those gorgeous half-timbered structures and it is home to the Eilenriede, Europe's largest municipal forest. It is very bike friendly, both in the city and its surrounds, with hundreds of kilometres of signposted routes and city bike lanes. Its reputation as a business hub also makes it incredibly easily logistics-wise, so superb for the independent traveller. Most unique of all is that the city has an international firework competition each year………weird, and cool. In short, many many reasons for a visit.
I have visited Germany once before - Bavaria and Baden-Wuttemburg - and ever since, I’ve been telling anyone who will listen that the best baked goods are in Germany - not in France, not in Italy - Germany. So add superb cake and daily pretzels to the list of attractions.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 day independent itinerary; 4 nights in Quedlinburg, then 3 nights in Hanover, travelling in Spring - April, May or June.
Based on flying in and out of Hanover from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.
Highlights include a two-wheeled day trip to Marienburg Castle, international firework competition displays, enjoying modern German fine dining in a 2-star Michelin restaurant, understanding more of Germany’s medieval history, and biking around the Harz Mountains.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.
WHEN
Spring - April or May
The weather is very similar to the UK so highly unpredictable, though I’m of the opinion that Spring is the absolute best time to visit Northern Europe. That being said, I’ll still expect a variety of warm, cool, wet and generally changeable weather for this trip.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds into Hanover, with a 2hr change in Amsterdam
I will also hire a car for the entirety of the trip, and a mountain bike for the stay in the Harz Mountains
Note the following:
the city centre is an environmental zone - access is only permitted for cars with a green sticker
there are over 360 kilometres of cycle paths alongside the city’s roads and 170 kilometres of cycle paths through Hannover's green spaces
you can take your bike on the tram or S-Bahn (Stadtbahn), sometimes at no extra charge
ACCOMMODATION
Quedlinburg (in order of preference):
This delightful little Airbnb feels very inkeeping with the town and its vibe
Similarly adorable is this little 2 bed apartment
Hanover (in order of preference):
GORGEOUS and atmospherically designed apartment smack bang in the centre
A very funky and modern design hotel, Me and All - I’d go superior double for the extra space and the view
Arthotel ANA Prestige - I’d plum for a Junior Suite
Funky and quintessentially German loft apartment right up in the eaves
SCHEDULE
Quedlinburg - Day 1 to 4
Take a guided mountain bike tour in the Solling-Vogler Nature Park & Mountain Biking network
Visit Volksbank Arena Harz mountain bike trail centre with a choice of 74 routes
Visit Bikepark Bodetal
Take any of these off-road routes to take in the scenery around the Bodetal
Eat some traditional German ‘pub-grub’ washed down with German beer at Brauerei Ludde Quedlinburg
Get some coffee and cake at Cafe Zum Roland
Hanover - Day 5 to 7
Visit the Sprengel Museum, to see their collection of 20th century cubist art
Book into a brewery tour at Herrenhauser Brauerei
Attend Velo City Night - at Velo City Night, thousands of cyclists conquer the streets of Hannover, forming a huge collective tour of the city. Similarly, at Skate by Night, around 4,000 inline skaters cruise around the city. Both initiatives are designed to promote alternative travel options and encourage the creation of the infrastructure needed
Attend one of the international firework competition displays at the Herrenhausen Gardens
Day trip to Marienburg Castle - 1 hr 30 m each way on a bike. Perhaps book for one of the guided tours or simply stop in at the restaurant
Hanover has a 2-star Michelin restaurant, Jante. I’d book in here for a treat
Stop by Lindenblatt Burger-Bar. All the ingredients are from the Hannover region, with the steaks coming from ecologically reared animals.
Stadtmauer Hannover - modern restaurant with a view of the Leine river
Have breakfast at Fraulein Schlicht (closed Monday & Tuesday)
ABOUT HANOVER’S NEIGHBOURHOODS
Aldstadt (Old Town) - the central historic hub. This is where all the major sites can be found and the half-timbered architecture
List - the cultured and refined residential district. To the northeast of the Aldstadt, it is just north of the Eilenreide Forest also, so very well located for both culture and the urban outdoors
Calenburger Neustadt - the student district. Bound on all sides by water - River Leine to the east and north, River Ihme to the west
Südstadt - the up-and-coming district for young professionals. This neighbourhood is quiet, residential and is considered a bit of a haven for outdoor activity (with both the Eilenreide and Machensee Lake in close proximity) and is home to a lot of design-focused modern boutiques and a variety of modern restaurants. It is also home to the Sprengel Art Gallery.
Linden - the edgy, funky alternative district. It only became part of Hanover in 1920 and often considers itself having a separate identity
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
In Lower Saxony (German: Niedersachsen), the cuisine is features many of the ingredients common to Northern Europe - buckwheat, apples, butter, potatoes, cherries, pears, plums, asparagus, cabbage, dill, beer and rye. Some of the more unusual specialities include:
Apple Soup made from cooked apples and raisins and seasoned with a generous helping of cinnamon and vanilla
During the spring season, asparagus served with schnitzel, potatoes and brown butter
Welf Pudding is a traditional dessert from Hanover, which is a two-layer posset-like concoction made from egg, milk, vanilla, sugar, cornstarch, dry white wine and lemon
Pinkel is Lower Saxony's national sausage
Sour milk cheeses such as Harzer, Gelbkäse and Bauernhandkäse
They also love Arme Ritter (French Toast) and Buckwheat pancakes
Other 7-10 night Itineraries
Turin and Monferrato, Piedmont - a twin-centre autumnal trip
An autumn itinerary with Arbarth factory tours, martinis, and day rides in the Monferrato hills.
Itinerary At A Glance
Twin-centre independent itinerary for Piedmont; 3 nights in Turin, 7 nights in the Monferrato Hills in Alessandria province.
Based on travelling in late summer or early autumn, flying in and out of Milan from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.
Highlights include a tour of the Abarth Factory, a cocktail experience at the home of Martini, indulging in the famed white truffle, staying in a high-spec design accommodation, day bike tours around the rolling green hills of the Monferrato, and an exciting gourmet experience at one of the regions many Michelin-starred restaurants.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.
Why here?
Piedmont (Piemonte in Italian) is in the north-western corner of Italy and both the Italian and French name for the region roughly translates as ‘foot of the mountain’ which is very apt, as the region’s physical background and border along its western edge, is the Alps.
Piedmont is known for its lakes, hills, rivers and its food: white truffle, gianduja, Gavi, Barolo, and Asti. It’s also well set up for independent cycling, with mapped routes for everything from road touring to proper downhill trail centres.
This itinerary started with a visit to the Fiat Lingotto Factory and the Abarth Works Museum in Turin (my boyfriend’s a serious petrolhead). Turin itself has a reputation for royalty, industry, and grand café culture. It was the first capital of unified Italy, home to the kings of Savoy, Fiat, and Juventus. We’re expecting a quietly confident city with boulevards, motorsport, and a splash of Martini — vermouth was invented here.
Rather than heading to the lakes, we’re staying rural in the Monferrato Hills near Casale Monferrato. The accommodation felt fresher, better value, and less over-touristed. This part of the trip is for relaxing and cycling through vineyard country.
WHEN
Early Autumn - either September or October.
A little unexpectedly, October is actually high season in the Monferrato-Langhe due to the harvest and the importance of gastrotourism to this area.
It is a relatively wet place all year round so I’ll be expecting mixed weather. Averages indicate that it is at its driest in the Winter.
TRAVEL MEANS
Flights into Turin are possible, though I found them much more expensive than flights into Milan, which is just a 2hr drive from Turin. Flight options are either of the below:
KLM, from Leeds into Milan, with a 2hr change in Amsterdam
Easyjet, from Manchester direct into Milan
I will hire a car for the entirety of the trip, and a bike for the second part of the trip in the Monferrato Hills
ACCOMMODATION
Turin
I found lots and lots of ‘oldy worldy’ accommodation in Turin, which isn’t really my bag, but something else I noticed in abundant availability were modern conversions of big old industrial spaces. These would be my pick in priority order:
Edit Lofts - this is a former Fiat factory made into funky loft apartments. They also have a restaurant on site recommended by the Michelin Green Travel Guide. Only downside is that it is a 40 minute walk from the centre
Funky loft space smack-bang in the centre
Modern, minimalist and space-maximising design loft a little outside of the historical centre
Monferrato Hills in Alessandria/Asti province
I found many many beautiful places to stay in this whole region, but once I found this Glass House in Terruggia, about 6km from the small historical river city of Casale Monferrato, I knew we had to stay here. The rest of my trip is designed around staying here
SCHEDULE
Turin - Day 1 to 3
Take a guided tour of the Abarth Factory Workshop
Visit the FCA Heritage Hub which opens soon in the Fiat Mirafiori industrial complex, with an exhibition of Fiat, Abarth, Lancia and Alfa Romeo
Go have a look around La Venaria Reale, one of Turin’s famous Savoy residences and one that stood out to me
Visit Castello di Rivoli contemporary art museum
Have coffee and cake at Caffe Mulassano - a grand and traditional cafe
Do as the locals do, with a pre-dinner aperitif and snack at La Drogheria in Piazza Vittorio square.
I’d book into any one of these restaurant recommendations from the Michelin Green Travel Guide
Take an an aperitivo ‘crawl’ in San Salvario - Enò | Via Galliari, 1, Affine | Via Belfiore, 16, Gorilla | Via Galliari, 20, Crumb | Piazza Madama Cristina, 2, Eria San Salvario | Via S. Pio V, 11, La Cuite | Via Baretti, 11
Take a 40 min drive outside the centre to get to know more about vermouth and Martini on this Ultimate Martini Experience at Casa Martini, the historical home of the well-known alcohol producer
Day 4 - driving between Turin & Casale Monferrato
About 75-100km (depending on the route), 1 hr 15 mins driving
Monferrato hills in Alessandria/Asti province - Day 4 to 10
The majority of our time will be spent on the bike, and the following routes and destinations strike my fancy:
Take this circular route from Casale Monferrato to Valenza, the famed City of Gold, which boasts the highest concentration of gold and artisan jewellery businesses in the country - I think we’ll pay a visit to the Museo del Gioello (jewellery museum) while we’re there too (65km route - an all day excursion. Start point is 25 min bike ride from Terruggia)
Take this route or this route for a tour around the Infernot Hills and a stop in Treville for a view of the Alps. (25km route - about 2-3 hours. Start point is 25 min bike ride from Terruggia)
Take this short multi-looping route in and around San Salvatore Monferrato (25km route - about 2-3 hours. Start point is 1 hour bike ride from Terruggia)
Cycle this loop in the lands of San Giovanni Bosco (62km route - an all day excursion)
Drive or bike out to Asti (4 hr bike ride round trip from Terruggia) just for a little wander around the city and a sip of the famous sparkling wine Asti Spumante
Cycle out to the walled medieval miniature city of Moncalvo (2.5 hr round trip from Terruggia) to walk the ramparts, visit the Marc Chagall paintings held in the Civic Museum of Moncalvo and have dinner at sunset
Drive or bike out to Montegrosso d’Asti (4-5 hour round trip from Terruggia)
For a wide variety of cycle routes across the whole of Piedmont that can be downloaded as GPX files, I found PiemontEscape to be superb
Book for dinner at Il Cavallo Scosso in Asti - a young and modern restaurant as recommended by the Michelin Green Guide
Faletto 1881 - a modern restaurant in a farmhouse-come-hotel-and-venue just outside of Casale Monferrato
Accademia Ristorante in Casale Monferrato - local and seasonal Piemontese cuisine, as recommended by the Michelin Green Guide
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Piedmont is extraordinarily rich in food and drink both grown and invented here:
drinks wise, there is Barolo and Gavi wine, bicerin (a coffee mixed with cream), and vermouth.
pasta-wise, there is agnolotti, plin and tajerin.
cheese-wise, there is stracchino (creamy, soft white cheese), toma (a light, semi-hard cow’s milk cheese), robiola (delicate and sweet, often preserved in oil), raschera (made with a combination of cow, goat and sheep’s milk coming from the high pastures of the Monferrato).
other food items include gianduja (chocolate-hazelnut spread), truffles (most famous ones come from Alba), bagna cauda, bonèt pudding, baci di dama, Savoy biscuits, grissini breadsticks and panna cotta.
Traditionally, aperitivo is meant to whet the appetite before dinner and is accompanied by a variety of appetizers (stuzzichini) such as cold cuts, cheeses, salads, olives, bite-sized pizzas and other savouries. However, such is the popularity of this time honoured tradition, a new concept of apericena has been introduced in recent years that closes the gap between aperitivo and dinner and acts as a less formal alternative to eating out in a restaurant. Now, sumptuous buffet tables in bars and cafes all over Turin groan with a mix of the traditional bites plus pasta and rice dishes, grilled and freshly chopped vegetables, couscous and quinoa salads, cakes and more. The buffets usually start at around 7pm and can go on until 9pm/10pm
Tastes of Italy
Andalusia by Wheel
Travelling in winter, journal and itinerary of our 7 night stay in Andalusia - starting with a Seville city break followed by biking around Vejer de la Frontera in Cadiz province.
Andalusia by Wheel
Exploring Seville and Vejer by bike and cuisine - off the main tourist track, in the hush of late winter when the crowds crowds fade to a murmur and orange blossom scents the air.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 day independent itinerary for Andalusia, 3 nights in Seville and 4 nights in Vejer de la Frontera
Based on flying from Leeds into Malaga, in March
Highlights include authentic tapas walking tour and live flamenco show in a very small theatre, meandering through the tiny lanes of Seville’s barrios, hiring scooters for an independent scoot around the city, and e-biking around Cadiz province.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to expectations?
Yes, yes, yes and yes.
Seville is probably on the hitlist of many a traveller and now that I have been, I’d say it deserves such a coveting. Probably the most architecturally beautiful and sensorially-stimulating city I have ever been to - the buildings were a visual delight, it smelled of orange blossom and it is literally filled with the lingering sounds of flamenco guitar.
We found history and culture aplenty, with marvellous food (as long as you stay away from the tourist spots) and great drink.
Vejer de la Frontera is one of the white hilltop towns (Pueblos Blancos in Spanish) of the Serranía de Ronda region. The most famous of these towns is Ronda, but there are many to choose from and I chose Vejer for it being one of the slightly lesser-known ones while still being one of the more sizeable and visitor-orientated. We found it to be beautiful, welcoming, and an ideal base for e-biking its surrounds. The biggest surprise was how verdant the area around Vejer was; we expected arid and instead was rewarded with scenes not dissimilar to the green and rolling hills of the Yorkshire Dales so it is a surprise that this isn’t a more known cycling destination. It’s an ideal location for being on two wheels. My boyfriend stated that Vejer was the best place we have ever been cycling – and it was absolutely superb. For anyone vaguely interested in cycling while on holiday, leisurely or hardcore, there is much to enjoy hereabouts.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Definitely. This city does winter very very well - mild and sunny with blue skies, pleasant but not hot. Don’t make the mistake of thinking you should go in shorts and flip flops - you’ll not only look like a tourist, you’ll also be shivering in the shade.
An ideal spot for a March city break with minimal crowds and beautifully sunny and mild skies; the ideal counterpoint to the cold and grey of Northern England at this time.
3+4 also worked extremely well, with the right amount of time in each location and an opportunity to extend a city break into a week long trip with the second, more countryside location. As a framework, I will look to replicate this again.
Two points of note: Doing two tours in Seville meant the guides repeated similar historical anecdotes and facts – probably best to do just one tour otherwise it can start sounding repetitious. Duplex Asilah wasn’t the ideal type of accom for bikes as it was tiny so we had to ask the reception to store them for us. Not at all the fault of the accom, but rather something I need to consider when booking a place to stay when we need room to store bikes.
Would I make another visit?
Rare is the place that touches me so much that I want to visit again, to get deeper under its skin; Cadiz province is one of those rare places. We had the most fantastic trip from start to finish.
If we went to Seville again, we’d stay in Triana for a slightly more authentic experience, though we felt we got a good flavour of the city in our 2.5 days so I suspect a revisit is a while away.
I very much want to return to Cadiz province to see and experience some more of its loveliness. Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Tarifa, Cádiz, Castellar de la Frontera in the Alcornocales, and Jerez de la Frontera are now on my hitlist.
WHEN
Early March
Shoulder season with mild weather, fewer crowds, orange blossom in Seville
We got blue skies, still winds, sunny. Warm in the sunshine, but you needed coats, long sleeves, socks and covered toes for the cooler mornings, evenings and shade.
LIGHT
Moderate Days
Sunrise: 7:45am to 7:20am
Sunset: 7:10pm to 7:17pm
Approx. 11–12 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Direct flight from Leeds into Malaga, with Jet 2
We hired a car for the entirety of our trip, and it would be difficult, (though not impossible) to do without it.
Seville is a 2.5 hour drive from Malaga airport; Vejer is about a 1h 40m drive from Seville, then Malaga airport is about 2h 15m from Vejer.
We hired an e-bike for the entirety of our stay in Vejer from Bicicletas Francisco who also handily provided us with some local maps and biking routes.
ACCOMMODATION
Seville - Suites Murillo Alcazar (in Barrio Santa Cruz)
superb location right next door to the Alcazar
ideally walkable for pretty much everything
comfy bed
plenty of space for two people
felt a teensy bit rundown and the breakfast was ‘meh’.
Vejer de la Frontera - La Casa del Califa in the self-catering Duplex Asilah
a collection of real townhouses that have been brought together to make a hotel
gorgeous location with fab service
an excellent restaurant
lacked any soundproofing so we found it was a bit noisy into the evening and in the early morning.
SCHEDULE
Alcázar entrance
Seville - Day 1 to 4
Day 1
Fly: into Malaga airport (convenient flight schedule, running all year from most UK airports, even regional ones)
Collect hire car
Drive: to Seville, 2h 11m driving, 210km
Check-in, settle in, collect a few groceries
Day 2
Stroll: through Barrio Santa Cruz
Lunch: Torres y Garcia, Calle Harinas, 2, 41001 Sevilla
Very modern and hip café right in central Seville but not a single tourist in it. Surprisingly large, and the food was both healthy and cooked with care.
Tour: Sunset City bike tour with Sevilla Bike Tours
Very authentic tour around the city including the outer neighbourhoods that you would be unlikely to see on a short city break. Sunset felt like a good choice as the Spaniards seem to come alive in the early evening and the streets were buzzing. Excellent and passionate guide too.
Note that Seville is almost pancake flat, so this is easy for anyone to do.
Dinner with Drinks: Taberna Alvaro Peregil, Mateos Gago, 22, 41004 Sevilla
Teensy little tapas bar on a street of restaurants made for tourists. Ignore the rest and go here for a taste of that classic Seville experience. Menu is classic, simple, straightforward and tasty.
Day 3
Lunch: Crustum Panem, Calle Puente y Pellón, 24, 41004 Sevilla.
Properly good bakery selling all manner of authentic baked goods. We had empanadas and bread. Top marks for a lunchtime snack.
Evening: Tapas y Flamenco tour with MIMO.
This was superb and probably the best thing we did during our stay in Seville. We visited a small flamenco school in Triana for an authentic and intimate flamenco 45 minute performance of two dancers, one singer and one guitarist. I have chills even now, months after the trip, just thinking about how the performance made me feel.
This was no tourist thing; this felt like the real deal.
These performers exhibited their craft and training with feeling and passion, and the audience was a mixture of locals and tourists in the know. We were then taken off to 3 tapas establishments in Triana and our knowledgeable guide ordered for us - food and drink. Everything was delicious and we left a bit tipsy and fully full like a full thing on full day. 11 out of 10 for this tour.
Day 4
Tour: Alcazar tour with Feel the City tours.
Good tour of the Alcazar, that filled in the historical detail and importance of the building that we would miss if we just went in solo (which you can do if you want to). The only thing about this is that it was very ‘classically touristy’ and the guide’s script sounded memorised and a bit rote. Good, just not outstanding.
Lunch: Gocho Neo Charcuteria, Calle Puente y Pellón, 19, 41004 Sevilla
Teeny little shop for a fresh ham sandwich, with the jamon sliced right in front of you. We had one with a bag of crisps and it was delish.
Drive to Vejer: 160km, 1h 45m driving
Afternoon: Arrive and settle into accommodation, explore Vejer’s cobbled streets and craft shops.
Views from La Breña y Marismas del Barbate Natural Park
Vejer de la frontera & surrounds - Day 4 to 8
Day 5
Ride: Vejer to Barbate loop, 40km
Combined on-road and off-road circular cycle route, Vejer to Barbate, about 40km round trip. Out to the coast, with a stop for coffee in Barbate, this took in one of the smallest nature parks in Andalusia - the Breña y Marismas del Barbate Nature Park. It contains five different ecosystems: marine, cliff, pine grove, marshland and dunes. Only suitable for off-road bikes.
Dinner: Restaurante El Califa
Restaurant within our hotel and about 6 steps from our door.
This place has quite the reputation, and deservedly so. We ate here on two out of four evenings; the menu selection was superb, the service outstanding, the setting elegant and the food sublime. The best food we ate on the whole trip. You can also book in to eat here even if you aren’t a resident of the hotel.
Day 6
Ride & Lunch: Vejer to Medina-Sidonia, about 70km round trip
Combined on-road and off-road circular cycle route, Vejer to Medina-Sidonia, about 70km round trip which even on an e-bike was a full day journey for the round trip. Medina-Sidonia is another one of the white hilltop towns; the journey to and from it was a beautiful rolling sojourn and the climb into town a punisher. We stopped for lunch in Medina before heading back.
Dinner: El Campero, Avda. de la Constitución local 5C, 11160 Barbate.
Restaurant specialising in the red tuna fished right off shore. The service and the food here was excellent. Most importantly, the waiters were all very knowledgeable and make recommendations about the menu which is useful as many of the tuna cuts and dish descriptions will seem entirely foreign
Day 7
Ride: Vejer to El Palmar de Vejer, about 30km round trip
Combined on-road and off-road circular cycle route, Vejer to El Palmar de Vejer, about 30km round trip. Most leisurely of the three routes
Drinks on the beach: El Palmar
the day was a stunner so we hung out at one of the surfer-type bars that line the beach at El Palmar. The place was absolutely buzzing with all kinds of folk - motorcyclists, families, surfers, groups of friends, groups of families. We had a few bevvies and soaked up the sunshine. Bliss.
Dinner: Restaurante El Califa
Day 8
Drive: to Malaga, 2h 30m driving, 200km
Fly home
Other Twin Centre Itineraries
Morbihan, Brittany - a twin-centre trip with road biking and city break
Travelling in early summer, my plan for 10-11 nights in Nantes and the Gulf of Morbihan. An itinerary for biking, art trails, a bit of Jules Verne, eating crepes, visiting medieval towns and castles, and admiring the sunset in pretty port towns.
Why Brittany?
With it’s own language and gastronomy that is heavily influenced by Celtic culture (indeed Brittany counts as one of the six Celtic nations along with Cornwall, Wales, Isle of Man, Ireland and Scotland), visitors are principally drawn to Brittany’s for coastal views, well-preserved historical towns and sites, food treats like salted caramel and crepes, and its unique cultural tradition that is quite distinct from the rest of France.
Tourism is well-established here with a wealth of online information to inform my independent itinerary. Its definitely a region geared up to receive visitors; many of them British, but also many of them French so it looks to have retained authenticity in its touristic offering. It is also well-serviced with transport options from the UK. This is not necessarily the place to discover that feels like I’m the only one to have done so, but I can take advantage of the expansive tourism infrastructure and online resources to get to some of the lesser-known places and design myself a unique itinerary quite easily.
Across the whole region, there seems to be a number of locales that strike my fancy and meet my brief of culturally rich, a little under the mainstream UK travel radar, and with opportunities for biking - Nantes, Quimper and Bénodet, St Malo, the Cote Eméraude, Noirmoutier-en-Île, Dinan, ruins at Carnac…this looks to be the kind of place that I will need several different holidays to see everything I’d like to see.
For this itinerary, I have settled on a design for southern Brittany, starting with a city break in Nantes, followed up with enjoying the coast in the Gulf of Morbihan, in easy reach of medieval town Vannes.
Nantes is the former “City of Dukes”, and was once the administrative capital of Brittany but is now part of the Pays de la Loire. This city looks to be a beauty - art features heavily, history is everywhere, and it looks to be a classy kind of place that isn’t too big to really see on a city break. There is also industry and an important port, and as per the Copenhagenize Index 2017, was marked as the 16th most “bicycle-friendly” city in the world.
The Gulf of Morbihan is a natural harbour; indeed ‘mor bihan’ in Breton means ‘little sea’. It is scattered with little islands, isles and islets; the mainland is lined with pretty little coastal villages; and being on the west coast, it is a beautiful theatre for incredible sunsets. The whole area looks perfect for exploring on a bike; quiet rural roads, excellent views, and for the historical and cultural hit, several castles and the medieval city of Vannes are within easy distance for day trips on two wheels.
Itinerary At A Glance
10 day independent itinerary for Brittany & the Loire Valley in Northwestern France: 3 nights in Nantes, and 7 nights in the Gulf of Morbihan near Vannes
Based on travelling in summer, flying in and out of Nantes from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include getting to know more about Jules Verne, biking around Nantes, taking a brunch tour on the River Erdre, indulging in buttery crepes, hanging out in the vibrant fortified medieval city of Vannes, and e-biking around the craggy coast of the Gulf of Morbihan.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Late June or early July.
Brittany has an extremely pleasant summer from June through to September with mid-20s temperature and fairly low rain during this time also. I will expect changeable weather even in the summer, though typically a few degrees warmer than the UK. The rest of the year is cool (not really very cold) but can be very wet (wetter than Northern England)
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds Bradford to Nantes, with a 2hr stop in Amsterdam
Hire a car to collect from the airport for the entirety of the trip and a road bike.
ACCOMMODATION
Gulf of Morbihan (in my order of preference)
La Villa du Guern - I’d like any one of those suites overlooking the water
I’m not sure I have ever encountered a more original place to stay than this house on the water
La Ferm’h - elegantly furnished eco-gites in Baden
Right outside of Vannes, but with views overlooking the Gulf of Morbihan - great looking Airbnb
Nantes (in my order of preference)
Maisons du Monde Hotel & Suites - my pick would be the Copenhague apartment
Luxurious 2 bed apartment with a grand and opulent personality
Stunner of a split-level duplex
Tasteful & modern 2 bed apartment with welcoming decor and nicely laid out space, about 1 mile from the centre of Nantes
SCHEDULE
Nantes - Day 1 to 4
Visit Chateaux des Ducs – 15th century castle tracing the history of Nantes
Take brunch cruise, a lunch cruise or a dinner cruise aboard the Bateaux Nantais up the River Erdre
This city is so bicycle friendly – I’d try some of these bike routes suggested by France Vélo Tourisme for in and around Nantes
Reputedly, the Quai des Antilles on the western side of the Ile de Nantes is the place to be for an early evening aperitif or beer. The riverside is supposedly lined with bars and cafés, and it bursts into action after sunset.
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See an art exhibition at the industrial shed unit that is HAB Galérie, located on Île de Nantes
Book a performance at Le Lieu Unique - The last remaining vestiges of the LU biscuit factory established here in 1885 by Louis Lefèvre-Utile have been rehabilitated in 2000 by the architect Patrick Bouchain to give rise to this national centre for drama, dance and music. There is also a Turkish bath, a restaurant and a DJ in the bar on weekends
Follow the Green line through the city past nearly forty public art works and check out the Nymphea artwork at night drifting over the River Erdre
History of printworks at the Printing Museum
Jules Verne Museum, to learn about the city’s most famous artistic son
Wander by the Machines de l’Ile and the Great Elephant – this Jules Verne creation is the emblem of Nantes
Drive to Noirmoutier-en-Île - a flat island littered with cycling trails just off the Atlantic coast and about 1.5 hours from Nantes
Vannes & surrounds - Day 4 to 10
Spend at least half a day walking around half-timbered, fortified medieval town of Vannes. Eat in its cafes, admire it’s marina and walk the ramparts
Take an oyster mini-cruise to Ile aux Moines, to taste the oysters and learn more about their farming and the fragile ecosystem
Take a trip to Quiberon to visit the confectioner’s shop of Henri la Roux, inventor of the famous salted caramel
Bike out to the Fortresse de Largoët, the highest keep in France (2hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Bike out to the Chateau de Tredion for a walk around their sculpted gardens and sculpture park (3hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to Auray-Saint-Goustan for a wander around this pretty port town (2hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to see Rochefort-en-Terre and the Moulin Neuf for a walk around this reputedly beautiful floral village (4 to 5 hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to Carnac to see the ancient standing stones
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Oysters, cider, white wine, galettes/crepes and buttery Breton biscuits are just a few of the famed local treats.
Fish in a beurre blanc sauce, also known as beurre Nantais is a classic dish for Nantes.
Muscadet is a dry, crisp white wine, the most common wine produced in the Loire region.
Nantes Tourisme gives lots of recommendations for restaurants, creperies and wineries in Nantes. There are even some recipes on there for the classic foods of Nantes
Michelin Travel guide offers up several good food options in and around Vannes, Aubay and Baden - I’d probably book a couple of these in advance. There are even a couple of places with a Michelin star
Other Twin Centre Itineraries
Noto Valley, Sicily - a Spring trip
Travelling in spring, journal and itinerary of my 10 night Sicilian stay in the Noto Valley.
Itinerary At A Glance
10 day independent itinerary for Southeastern Sicily (the region is often referred to as the Noto Valley) staying in hilltop town Scicli
Based on flying in and out of Manchester into Catania on Sicily’s east coast, in April or May
Highlights include taking a tour up Mount Etna, strolling around Sicily’s historic hilltop towns, and seeing ancient Greek architecture at the Valley of the Temples.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Not for me, no. Unfortunately, not one of our better trips and not somewhere we would necessarily recommend or visit again. Main complaints for us were issues with the accommodation but also (controversial opinion I’m sure) we didn’t find the island landscape beautiful really; it is marred with flytipping and endless endless fields of polytunnels for tomatoes. The towns we visited were pretty in the main streets, but the outskirts aren’t.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
No.
10 nights was much too long for us, with not enough of what we like to do to occupy us for this length of time, particularly where we stayed in Scicli - many of the activities we enjoyed were actually quite far from our base. This has taught me to start finding an itinerary of activities first, and then find accommodation to suit that, not the other way round.
Would I make another visit?
I wouldn’t return Scicli or the Noto Valley, and couldn’t recommend it. In hindsight, I think a better base for us in Southeastern Sicily could have been Syracuse/Ortigia island, though Sicily is not on the top of my list after this trip.
WHEN
May
We experienced warm pleasant, sunny weather. I wouldn’t call it hot - we needed trousers and long sleeves, plus a jacket or cardigan most of the time. Despite how hot Sicily will get in the summer, it wasn’t that hot at this point.
TRAVEL MEANS
Manchester direct into Catania, with Easyjet
We hired a car for the entirety of our trip, and it would be impossible to do without it.
Scicli is a 2 hour drive from Catania airport
ACCOMMODATION
Villa Saracena, Contrada Croce, 97018 Scicli, +39 349 648 3018
I cannot recommend this accommodation - we couldn’t stay there the first night (some issue which I can’t remember) so we stayed in one of their sister accommodations. Then part way through the trip we lost all power and water for two full days. This, unfortunately, became a memorable downer on the trip as it became quite stressful not to have those basic amenities. The staff were trying hard, but really, it just felt unacceptable and sort of ruined the stay.
I think I might have taken it on the chin a bit better if the accommodation had been extremely reasonably priced, but it wasn’t - it was comparable with any luxury accommodation in any European destination - so it just felt like they had failed to match their service with the kind that would be expected for that price.
FOOD
It’s hard to have bad food in Italy, and this was certainly the case for our trip, but neither did we have food that was so outstanding I feel compelled to recommend here. If you do go, be absolutely certain you buy yourself some fresh ricotta, and eat it simply on fresh bread, topped with proscuitto and olive oil. This is sublime and you can’t replicate these flavours at home in the UK. A lasting memory of the trip and the island.
ACTIVITIES
Mount Etna 4x4 & Cable Car tour - this was a superb part of the trip, but it is a very long drive from where we stayed in Scicli, at least 2.5 hours each way. Two things to point out - one, be sure to book in advance, and two, you really do need to dress for extremely cold weather for reaching the top. Jeans and a jacket will not cut it, no matter how warm and mild it is at the base of the volcano. This may sound like an very obvious thing to say, but the tour company did not give us any instruction on this point, and while we were much more appropriately dressed than the majority of our fellow tour-goers, we were underdressed for the wickedly strong winds and snow at the summit and it impacted on our ability to enjoy it.
MTB & Sea Kayak Tour Sampieri coast - this would have been great……if my boyfriend didn’t get severely seasick about 20 minutes into the trip. Francesco, our guide, was superb about the whole thing.
Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples) in Agrigento - Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, the Valley of the Temples contains one of the largest archaeological sites in the Mediterranean and is one of the most extensive, representative and best preserved archaeological sites of classical Greek civilisation who were settled in Sicily and the southern part of the Italian peninsula. The Romans called the area of Sicily and the foot of the boot of Italy Magna Graecia (Latin, "Greater Greece"), since it was so densely inhabited by Greeks. This was an absolutely fantastic way to spend the day, and is humbling to wander around the magnificent and ancient structures.
DAY TRIPS & WHERE TO WANDER
Noto - One of the Baroque gems of Sicily and rebuilt from scratch after the 1693 earthquake. We spent a pleasurable half-day wandering around this town and had lunch outside on the pretty main street.
Modica - In the 15th Century, when Modica was under Spanish control, chocolate (xocolatl) was brought from the Aztec areas of South America and they still make chocolate using the ancient recipe. Like Noto, we spent a few hours just wandering around, tried the chocolate and had a coffee. I’d give it 3 out of 5 - not necessarily as awesome as so much online content makes out and I wouldn’t recommend making this your destination - better to stop off here as a way to break up a longer journey to some other place.
Ideas for another visit
Stay in Syracuse/Ortigia island
Riverwalk in Cassibile Gorge - with AirBnB experiences. Just south of Syracuse, a vast, 10 kilometre-long, 300m deep gorge has been bisected by the emerald green Cassibile River, through which a series of fresh water pools and waterfalls tumble. Spend a day hiking, clambering and (if you’re brave enough) taking a dip in the ice-cold water. There are beautiful wildflowers, butterflies and several interesting archaeological ruins here too.
See the troglodytic (cave dwelling) culture of Cava d’Ispica - If you have the time and energy, you can follow the gorge all the way to Ispica town (12km / 3-4 hours), supposedly a lovely walk in springtime.
Vendicari Nature Reserve - A mixture of salt lagoons (pantano), sand dunes, rocky coastlines, and sandy beaches, and thousands of migrating birds pass a few days here on their way to or from Africa with flamingos, herons, storks and cormorants regulars during autumn. It’s reputedly a wonderful environment for a good seaside walk and a picnic. There are no lidos or bars, so it is essential to take what you need with you – water, something to eat, swimsuit and towels. There are three entrances to the park, all off the main Noto-Pachino road. The middle entrance, signposted Torre di Vendicari, gives you the opportunity of heading north or south. Wherever you decide to enter, you will have to park you car and walk some way, though this is a generally thought of as a pleasurable experience.
Sewing projects for a Spring trip
Avignon, France - a travel itinerary for Spring
Using historic Avignon as a base for exploring the Luberon and the Alpilles, my journal and itinerary with time for biking, river kayaking and soaking up the Provencal atmosphere. Our experience and verdict.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 day itinerary for Avignon in either April or May
based on flying from Leeds Bradford to Marseille, and hiring a car upon arrival
Highlights include outdoor adventures on river kayaks and bikes, strolling around Provence’s historic locations in the warm spring sunshine, and cooking at home with local Provençal produce
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to expectations?
I love river cities full of the grandeur and confidence of a long and important history.
Capital of the Vaucluse and the Côtes du Rhône, seat of the Popes and city of art and culture, Avignon is a small city that has everything a big one has, with more beauty and grace than you can shake a stick at. The centre is walled, filled with medieval meandering streets, private mansions from the Renaissance, tiny squares, and modern cafe culture. One side of the city borders the Rhone and the countryside is not far, with beautiful regions such as the Luberon, Carmargue and Les Alpilles all within a 1 hour drive.
Top marks for location - there might not be a bad spot in the whole of Provence, but I feel like no-one talks about Avignon so it felt a bit like we were discovering a place that other Brits know nothing about. The city itself is truly beautiful - clean, historic, vibrant, atmospheric - and the surrounding countryside equally so - verdant, relaxed, elegant. This place matches the photos, the hype and the general popularity.
We found this to be a superb base for sampling both Provence’s historical sites and outdoor beauty.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
Yes - I wouldn’t usually spend 7 days in a city, but this one worked. Avignon is only a small city, and makes an ideal base for day trips in the provencal surrounds. Coming back to Avignon each evening meant we could take advantage of the excellent selection of bistros and restaurants in the city for dinner, and also enjoyed several breakfasts on a cafe terrace, watching Avignon’s gentle hustle and bustle thrum by.
However - the decision to fly from Leeds via Heathrow was not a good one. We had such a long wait in Heathrow and arrived in Avignon quite late. It would have been much better to go direct from Manchester.
We also took the bike with us on the flight but in retrospect, it wasn’t worth it for staying in the city itself - being inside a medium-sized city meant there was a fair amount of traffic so it was only used the one day. If we had chosen a more town or rural location as our base, I think the bike would have seen a lot more use.
Would I make another visit?
I would absolutely visit Provence again, though feel we wouldn’t necessarily need to return to Avignon. I would however, very much recommend it to anyone.
TRAVEL MEANS
British Airways, from Leeds to Marseille via Heathrow
We also hired a car for the entirety of the trip, which is necessary for getting around the region for day trips
ACCOMMODATION
This Airbnb
well-located apartment right in the middle of the city.
very ‘French’ in style
high-quality kitchen and bathroom.
Included a parking space about a 5 minute walk away (parking in the city is incredibly difficult so this was vital)
ACTIVITIES
Toured around a provencal market with a local - booked in advance with Airbnb Experiences. This was wonderful – a knowledgeable insider taking you round a food market in a place with such produce can’t be beaten.
River-kayaking along the Sorgue – booked in advance with Airbnb Experiences. Crystal clear, freezing cold and verdantly beautiful, this was a fabulously easy outdoor activity that offered a chance to see some of the nature of Provence. We saw kingfishers, beavers, navigated some little ‘steps’ in the river and just relaxed in the kayak – we travelled with the current so there was very little paddling involved!
Cycled up Mont Ventoux - well, my boyfriend did! Famous Tour-de-France stage, bit too serious for my tastes - I’m more of a leisure cyclist than a serious road biker. Reports from him though were that this was well worth the trip. We took his bike especially for this reason.
FOOD
We bought lots of fresh produce from Les Halles Food Market and ate at home
The reason we ate at home so much was not due to a lack of places to eat, but rather how exciting it felt to shop in Les Halles! ‘Les Halles’ in French literally means ‘covered market’ and you will find a ‘Les Halles’ in the vast majority of major French cities or towns. The one in Avignon is deserving of a superb reputation (which it has!) This market is composed of about 40 stall holders selling both fresh produce and ready-to-eats - Maison Violette bread and pastries stall to the left as you go in is superb.
Opening times: Les Halles is open every morning except Mondays. It’s especially lively Sunday mornings.
As well as Les Halles, the streets in the city are full to bursting with cafes, bistros, restaurants, traditional and international alike, and we sampled some of these also.
DAY TRIPS
Drive to Les Baux-de-Provence and take the audio tour around the Chateux de Les Baux
Located on a rocky plateau in the heart of the Alpilles, the town of Les Baux-de-Provence provides a breathtaking panoramic view down over Arles and the Camargue and the drive to get there is delightfully atmospheric. The town has been patiently restored and now boasts a historical and architecture heritage consisting of 22 listed buildings. In addition, the monumental “Carrières de Lumières” host extraordinary multimedia shows.
Arles
A major Roman centre, and famous for its amphitheatre and association with Van Gogh. We had a little stroll through the narrow streets of the centre and while it was sweet, I couldn’t honestly say it was a real highlight of the trip and wouldn’t recommend going out of your way for a visit here.
Wander Avignon itself
Historical, grand, and a bit of that fabulous ‘shabby chic’ the French do so well. Don’t take a map or use your phone - just wander without a plan. Its small enough for you to not worry at all about getting lost and you will surely stumble on some adorable little cafe as you walk, where you can sit out with a coffee and a viennoiserie, while you watch people go about their business. We spent at least two blissful half-days doing this.
Road-trip through the Luberon to visit the hilltop and valley villages
The Luberon is a beautiful region of rolling green hills and home to quintessential French villages, many having remained unchanged in centuries and boasting fantastic views across the area. An absolutely brilliant day-trip option with the villages about 30-45 min from one another, you can easily hit three locations in the day with time to stop and wander around. Our favourite stop of the day was in Lourmarin, though Gordes was also lovely. We did a day trip around here in the car but the region could be a week’s destination unto itself, and a great spot for some road biking and relaxing. Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.
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Take a tour around the Carmargue to see the flamingo and wild horses
Visit Aix-en-Provence - the city of water and the city of markets. Some kind of market — for fish, flowers, clothes, pottery, spices, jewellery, vegetables, cheese, fruit and more — is open seven mornings a week. Reputedly a beautiful city for an exploring and wandering visit on foot.
Stay for a full week in The Luberon - staying either in Lourmarin or Gordes
Other May Itineraries
