Rhubarb & Rose Compôte
Recipe for a fragrant rhubarb and rosewater compote. An utterly delightful flavour combo and a taste of The British Isles.
There are two rhubarb seasons - one is late winter, early spring, when the crops of pink, forced rhubarb are available, and one is the summer, when the abundant crops of green rhubarb are endlessly sprouting stalks in veg patches and borders up and down the land.
This recipe is designed for the former, the pink kind, particularly if you intend to serve the compote appetisingly atop a crepe, yoghurt or cake. While the green summer kind will taste exactly the same, it will not have the aesthetic appeal of the pink winter version, especially if you want to turn the puree into some other topping like on a cheesecake.
If you only want it for the flavour and don’t need any of the colour, this recipe will produce the same result either which way.
My recipe below is my own.
PORTION SIZE
Makes about 700ml – roughly the amount of 2 large mugs.TOOLS
Other than the typical kitchen equipment, you will need:
a roasting tin with sides, about 4-5cm deep
INGREDIENTS
600g rhubarb (about 10 stalks) **forced, pink ones will make a pink compote; the green summer rhubarb will be a sludgy green colour
100g golden caster sugar
1 to 1 ½ tsp rose water
1-2 drops pink food colouring (optional)
Ratios
100% fruit, 15% sugar
Approx. ½ tsp rose extract per 300g fruit
Variations
with orange or lime zest – omit the rose water and zest the citrus fruit onto the compôte just after it comes out the oven. Stir to combine.
with strawberries — swap half the rhubarb for strawberries
With vanilla – stir 2 tsp vanilla paste onto the compôte just after it comes out the oven. Stir to combine.
With rosé wine or liqueurs – add 2 tbsp rose wine, elderflower liqueur, Grand Marnier, Chambord etc. to the roasting tin with the raw rhubarb and sugar. Roast together.
With cardamom – grind the seeds of 4 cardamom pods and add to the roasting tin with the raw rhubarb and sugar. Roast together. Omit the rose water.
METHOD
Heat oven. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan
Prep rhubarb and any extras. Cut the rhubarb into large chunks and place in a roasting tin with the sugar. If any of your extras need to go in before roasting, add here.
Roast. Cover with foil and cook for 15‐20 minutes or until the rhubarb is tender and the sugar has dissolved into a lovely pink syrup. Expect it to be pretty wet.
Finish. Stir in the rosewater (or any other optional extras, and a drop or two of pink food colouring if you want to amp up the colour), then spoon into a bowl and set aside to cool completely.
USES
Dollop onto rice pudding, porridge or crepes
Blend into a smoothie
Use as a fruit puree for cheesecake topping
Serve alongside a cake (particularly a dense type of cake such as a Madeira cake or olive oil cake)
Low-and-Slow Pecan & Pumpkin Seed Granola
Very simple two-step recipe for homemade pecan and pumpkin seed granola. Memories of Suffolk.
I once spent a summer weekend, with a friend, on the Suffolk coast. We walked, we chatted, we basked in the the high summer sun, we ate great food.
Part of the joy was the breakfast at our guesthouse, Corner Farm. We were seated in the glass vestibule just off the kitchen, and laid out on the table with our brewing tea were individual little Kilner jars of granola, clearly homemade granola at that. It was utterly delicious.
Buttery, crispy, oaty and gently spiced. Nothing like the rubbish you can get from the supermarket. I tentatively enquired as to whether the owner of the guesthouse might share her secrets with me. Lucky for me, she did, and making it is now a regular feature in my own kitchen.
Three things to know. First, this is not a ‘clumpy’ granola, but rather a ‘flaky’ one, where all the ingredients remain as separate little crispy morsels. Second, the darker the honey, the darker the bake will be. Third, don’t be tempted to speed up the baking - the low-and-slow approach is what gets you these golden, toasty, oaty nutty flakes where the rich and delicate flavour of the butter has been coaxed out over the long bake time, and none of the nuts or seeds have burnt.
PORTION SIZE
My estimates are based on an 80g portion of granola per person. This recipe will make about 1kg, which is about 12 portions.
TOOLS
Other than the typical kitchen equipment, you will need:
a baking sheet or a shallow roasting tin, 3-4cm deep
a large Kilner jar or tupperware for storage
INGREDIENTS
130g unsalted butter
130g honey (or mix of light muscovado & vanilla caster)
350g oats, rye or spelt flakes – half jumbo, half porridge
180g pecans (or swap in walnuts or almonds)
70g pumpkin seeds
1 tsp fine salt
1 tsp vanilla paste or extract
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp mixed spice or allspice
Extras after baking (optional)
80g chocolate chips or coconut shavings
50g chopped dried fruit
Ratios
1:1 fat : sweetener
100% dry ingredients : 43% liquid ingredients
METHOD
Melt liquids - Weigh the butter and honey directly into a saucepan; melt over a medium heat. Do not allow to bubble.
Prep oven & baking sheet - Preheat the oven to 110°C fan, 130°C regular and line a large roasting tin (one with sides) with reusable baking paper
Mix everything together - Weigh the dry ingredients into a large bowl. Pour the melted ingredients over the dry and mix well.
Bake - Spread the mixture on the baking tray and bake in the middle of the oven for 90 minutes, stirring every 30 minutes, until nicely golden. Keep an eye on it and do not let it burn – you may want to turn to encourage even browning.
Cool & Finish with extras - Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely. It will dry and crisp up significantly. Once cooled completely, add your extras if you are using them. Decant into storage jar.
STORAGE
Store in an airtight jar; it keeps easily for a few months
Penzance - biking, brunching and lido-bathing in blackberry season
Spending a spell in Penzance, in late summer. Blackberries, biking, brunch and bathing.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Penzance and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in August
Highlights include Saltwater & Geo-thermal lido, dinner at a harbourside fish restaurant, Museum of Global Communications in Porthcurno and a day trip to the Isles of Scilly
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
The English seaside can be rather a disappointment to me - I’m talking the seaside towns made popular in the Victorian era that have now descended into a recurrent cheap theme of tacky shops, rickety fairground rides, fish & shop shops, arcades and absolutely zero culture worth speaking of.
I wasn’t necessarily expecting Penzance to be this, but you never know with an English seaside town……..there is always the risk………..Penzance was therefore an absolute surprise. What saves it, I think, is that it is a working harbour town, saved from the fate described above, by having actual industry instead. This isn’t a town built on tourism, its a town built on fishing.
In both Newlyn (where we stayed) and in Penzance, we encountered lots and lots of independent shops and eateries, a friendly and relaxed vibe.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
4 days was spot on. Would have been even better to have been able to use the location as a jump off to the Isles of Scilly, but alas, this wasn’t meant to be (see note on schedule below).
The riding is wonderful, but also challenging - we encountered multiple climbs in excess of 10% and same for the descents. This is not riding for the fainthearted, but we were rewarded by regular stops to graze on the ripe and fragrant blackberries that were fruiting in the hedgerows along the side of the road.
The one thing I will say is that this drive was a looooooooooong way from Yorkshire - it took 9 hours in the end due to bits and bats of roadworks, plus some accidents. I would say that the fact we were there in the height of school holiday season - August - contributed to this experience, so would suggest that if you can, make a visit outside these times, or fin som way to break up the journey. No matter when you go, it is at least 7 hours to drive there, and navigating the busy road network through the middle of England is unlikely to go smoothly.
Would I recommend it? Would I make another visit?
Can definitely recommend it, though for us personally, one trip is likely enough. Maybe we’ll go back in another 10 years.
WHEN
August
This is high season for Cornwall, with the kids being off school. Be sure to book early for best availability.
We got warm (not hot), with one rainy day. Expect changeable weather at any time, including strong sun, rain, mist, fog and wind.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 05:51am to 6:36am
Sunset: 21:05pm to 20:08pm
16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car & Road bike
Driving from Yorkshire to Cornwall should be about 7 hours each way but expect more for traffic issues.
Road bike for activities while there.
ACCOMMODATION
This rental on Booking.com
1.5 miles to central Penzance
luxury and modern
well suited for a couple
free parking
outdoor space
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Drive, start in the morning, collect groceries, arrive and settle in
Day 2
Bike ride: Round trip, 25km, 350m climbing. Newlyn-Mousehole-Sancreed-Heamoor-Penzance-Newlyn.
Dinner: in the flat
Day 3
Relax: make breakfast, spend the morning chilling out
Bike ride: Round trip, 40km, 580m climbing. Newlyn-Mousehole-Pourthcurno-Lands End-Sennen Cove-St Buryan-Paul-Newlyn.
Visited the Museum of Global Communications in Porthcurno: in 1870, the first international telegraph cable was brought ashore at Porthcurno, connecting Britain to India and later other parts of the British Empire. By the start of World War II, Porthcurno was a critical hub for allied communications with 14 cables coming ashore, carrying some 70% of all communications. A fantastic place to visit. Really tells the story of the pioneers who made our current world of always-on, rapid communication, possible.
Dinner: Booked at Argoe, harbourside fish restaurant. Excellent. Whole monkfish cooked on the bone over coals, to share. Best monkfish I have ever eaten. Terrace overlooking the working harbour fell silent for the evening.
Day 4
THE ORIGINAL PLAN GOT CANCELLED DUE TO WEATHER!
The plane flying across to the Isles of Scilly is teensy, hence, liable to get cancelled if the weather is not favourable. Sady for us, despite every other day being 22 deg.C and sunny, the day we were booked to travel to St Mary’s, the cloud was very low and visibility was too poor to fly.
Day trip to St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly: Fly from Lands End with Skybus (book early - you are unlikely to grab a seat on the day)
Collect a picnic lunch from Hugh Street Café or Tanglewood Kitchen
Walk the St Marys Island Coastal path: 17km, 3.5h hike
THE BACK-UP PLAN!
Go to The Eden Project
Dinner: easy-breezy modern fish-and-hip shop with a twist, Mackerel Sky
Day 5
Morning swim: Jubliee Pool Saltwater Lido & Geothermal Pool, 1 hour session - you need to book this several days in advance - you are highly unlikely to get a spot on the day. Lovely to bob about in the warm pool. Expect it to be busy.
Brunch: 45 Queen St (strictly walk-ins only, open from 10am, closed Monday & Tuesday). Highly recommended.
Drive home
RIDING IN SOUTHWEST CORNWALL
Riding around Newlyn and Penzance is scenic but not effortless. The terrain isn’t mountainous, but it’s rarely flat - short, punchy climbs and winding roads keep you working. Riding shifts beteen deep shade, to bright sea vistas. It’s a region best suited to confident riders who enjoy a bit of unpredictability: weather, narrow lanes, and the occasional steep descent. That said, there are a lot of road options to choose from, so you can mostly avoid traffic, and the views make it worth the effort.
Ideas for another visit
-
Stay on the Roseland Peninsula, just south of Truro and across the water from Falmouth
-
Bike ride: Take in the whole of West Penwith, starting in Penzance, on this 65km road ride
Visit St Michael’s Mount
Evening Show: at The Minack theatre - advance booking essential
Visit Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens (gardens open daily 10.30am – 5.30pm, though Gallery closed Sunday and Mondy) with lunch at Tremenheere Kitchen
Newlyn Art Gallery & Exchange- this gallery has loads of events, including vintage fairs happen in the Autumn, textile workshops and Newlyn art walking tours happening on just 4 to 6 dates in the spring and summer. These need to be booked well in advance, with
Golowan Festival is a 10-day festival of arts, performances, culture and parades. It’s the UK’s second largest street festival and happens in June.
Penzance Art Festival is also on in June
-
Breakfast at Artist Residence
Supper club at Chapel House Penzance
Visit Nancarrow Farm for one of their famed Feasts or Sunday Lunch with home-reared organic meat
Visit Potager Garden for brunch (near Falmouth)
Other Countryside Itineraries
Alnmouth, Northumberland Coast - a weekend in late Summer
My travel journal for a short, late summer break in Alnmouth. Sand and castles.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Alnmouth and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in early September
Highlights include morning beach walk, hike around Bamburgh Castle and fish lunch at The Potted Lobster
Based on a group travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Alnmouth caught my eye as a quiet corner of Northumberland — easy to reach from Yorkshire, yet far enough to feel like an escape. It’s known for its sweeping beaches and dramatic skies, but the cold North Sea keeps the crowds away, making it feel like a secret.
I’d heard about a standout fish restaurant in Bamburgh (The Potted Lobster), which tipped the balance in favour of this stretch of coast. The idea was set: build an itinerary around seasonal eating, coastal walking, and the kind of scenery that lingers.
Honest verdict
Does it live up to hype or expectations?
I would say it exceeded our expectations in every way. What a gorgeous weekend.
Firstly, the quality of the beaches is just outstanding. Wide, golden powdery sand, and quiet. They are such sterling examples, it’s hard to believe how quiet they are. We personally enjoy beaches for the views (rather than the swimming orthe sunbathing), and these beaches are made for walks and running, and took our breath away as we happened upon one during a coastal walk.
Secondly, there is so much preserved history here. The villages along the coast are out of the way of heavy traffic, so they benefit from not being a throughway to anywhere else - you have to be going there to stumble upon one of these villages. This remoteness has probably protected them from rampant overtouristing or modernisation. Alnmouth was like walking back in time; an idyllic little high street full of character and clearly recently rejuvenated to make the most of its historic charms for the modern traveller.
From start to finish, thoroughly recommended.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely.
2 nights in Alnmouth felt correct for us, perhaps up to 3 nights would work. The charms of this massive county are rather spread out, from the AONB coastline in the east, to Kielder Water and Dark Sky Park in the middle, to Hadrian’s Wall on the northern border, but this, in fact, makes it an ideal place for short 2-night trips to sample a little of Northumberland each and every time.
We travelled as a family group, and had just enough going on to give structure to the trip without overwhelming us. Perhaps better would have been to do a group activity on the Saturday afternoon, with dinner at The Potted Lobster rather than lunch.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit Northumberland again, though would focus on another area.
WHEN
Early September
The start of the shoulder season. Best time for sunsets.
We experienced a hot tail to summer, with 27C sunny. Expect anything from hot to cool and rainy.
LIGHT
Moderate daylight
Sunrise: 06:12am
Sunset: 19:59pm
14 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car
Drive from Leeds takes about 2.5 hours
ACCOMMODATION
The Whittling House, Pub with Rooms
situated on a gorgeous little street running down to the beach
luxury and modern
well suited for a couple
slightly tricky parking
excellent on-site restaurant
a touch noisy due to it being a pub
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the evening, arrive and settle in at The Whittling House, Alnmouth
Dinner: at the Whittling House
Day 2 - Saturday
Lunch: The Potted Lobster, Bamburgh. Top notch fish restaurant
Hike: Walking loop around Bamburgh Castle & town, 14km
Dinner: The Joiners Arms
Day 3 - Sunday
Morning beach walk: there is a gorgeous stretch of golden sandy beach right at the bottom of the high street in Alnmouth. Late summer sees a hazy and fresh start to the morning, perfect for a morning beach stroll
Drive home
Back-up plans for rainy days
Visit inside of Bamburgh Castle - still fully functioning and one of the most imposing castles on the British Isles
Other Short UK Itineraries
Cotswolds for William Morris - a weekend in high Summer
A friend and I visited Kelmscott Manor in The Cotswolds. Where else we stayed and ate.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Kelmscott Manor and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in early June
Highlights include a visit to William Morris’ summer home, Kelmscott Manor, a country walk to Lechlade, and dinner at Thyme
Based on a pair of friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Visiting the Cotswolds? Pioneering.
William Morris? Would never have thought……….
Everyone knows the Cotswolds — it’s one of the UK’s most sought-after destinations. But that popularity can be a double-edged sword: high-season prices, packed villages, and the risk of a trip that feels more generic than special. I wanted to see if it was possible to experience the Cotswolds differently.
The idea started with Kelmscott. I’d never thought much about William Morris, but a friend mentioned it, and it piqued my interest. I began to dig into the area’s links to traditional English craft and design, and it felt like a good fit for a short, thoughtful trip.
I planned a two-night stay with a simple itinerary: Kelmscott, a countryside walk, and dinner — all easy to do without a car. We stayed at a pub with a restaurant, which made the logistics smooth and gave us a cosy base. I skipped the more obvious hotspots and Instagram-famous villages, aiming instead for a quieter, more grounded experience about English heritage.
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
When it comes to these kinds of places, I think, there can be a hefty dose of disappointment when you get there as it is thronged to the rafters with tourists and you had to pay through the nose to stay there in high summer. Thankfully, this wasn’t our experience on this trip. We found Kelmscott to be alive with activity but not crowded, and there was nothing at all that we had to queue for. Thyme, similarly, wasn’t overdone nor packed with people trying to fill an Instagram reel.
If you have any interest at all in traditional England, and perhaps learning a little more about one of our most important and beloved artists, thinkers and businessmen, I can highly recommend a trip to Kelmscott.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely. We travelled as a pair of friends, and the three booked activties on Saturday - Kelmscott, walk, then dinner - was a perfect day of memories that we have regularly reminisced about since.
I think it would work equally well to stay a little further out and take a circular bike ride with Kelmscott as the destination.
Also, staying with the pub, with the benefit of a restaurant for dinner on the day of arrival and breakfast on the day of departure, made a 2 night stay very easy indeed.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit Cotswolds again, though would focus on another area.
WHEN
Early June
Probably the most beautiful month to visit England, in my view. Spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.
TRAVEL MEANS
Car
Drive from Leeds takes about 2.5 hours
ACCOMMODATION
The Plough Inn, Pub with Rooms
literally a short walk to Kelmscott Manor
well suited for a pair of friends
slightly tricky parking
a touch noisy due to it being a pub
Kennet, 1883, By William Morris - Photo by Birmingham Museums Trust on Unsplash
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the evening, arrive and settle in
Dinner: at The Plough Inn
Day 2 - Saturday
Kelmscott Manor & Gardens: Seeing up close and personal, the spot where William Morris (and his wife and some other artist hangers-on) would spend summer. The house is filled with remnants of his artistry, as well as that of his wife, Jane, and their life of collecting and making of beautiful things. The garden is also an absolute delight.
Walk: Walking loop from Kelmscott to Lechlade and back, 10km
Dinner & Art: Thyme - couldn’t recommend this place highly enough. The food was superb, as was the service, and the open dining room-kitchen-lounge area, which I believe was a converted barn, contributed greatly to the experience. Thoroughly modern and luxurious. We were also allowed a private view of the art exhibition that was on in the neighbouring space.
Day 3 - Sunday
Breakfast at The Plough Inn
Drive home
Sewing & Wearing
Other Short UK Itineraries
Norfolk - Summer riding
Itinerary for a short weekend cycling break near the North Norfolk Coast.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Holt and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in mid-August
Highlights include a boutique hotel stay, long road ride around North Norfolk, and fish and chips at the seaside
Based on a couple travelling
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Outstanding.
I would hear people announce how flat Norfolk, and while that might be true, before I visited, it led me to believe flat meant boring - not so. The landscape, the villages, the gardens………it felt like a view was peeking out around every corner and it was oh, so, quiet.
A spectacular introduction to Norfolk, leaving us eager for more.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Yes….and no, in that we could easily have stayed longer (there is enough to do), and this was quite a long drive for just 2 nights. A cycling weekend is perfectly perfectly suited for Norfolk though; a framework I would look to replicate again.
Would I make another visit?
Definitely; even this same area around Holt would warrant another trip for us.
WHEN
August
We got spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.
Can be changeable.
TRAVEL MEANS
Car + Road bike
Drive from Leeds takes about 4 hours
ACCOMMODATION
The Harper, Hotel
boutique, luxury
intimate
fantastic restaurant
impeccable, yet thoroughly modern service
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the morning, settle in
Dinner: At The Harper
Day 2 - Saturday
Ride: Long road-ride loop around Holt, 73km (gpx download here)
Coffee & Cake Stop: Heydon Village Tea Rooms - absolutely delightful, in a pictureque village setting
Fish & Chip Supper at the Seaside: French’s, Wells-next-the-Sea - be prepared for a very, very long queue!
Day 3 - Sunday
Spa & Sauna morning: The Harper allows you to pre-book the pool, hot tub and sauna on an exclusive use basis for 30-minute sessions
Breakfast at the hotel
Drive home
Ideas for another trip
-
Visit Sandringham during the winter, for its annual light trail ‘Luminate Sandringham’
Tour The Boards National Park on a bike - 125 miles of navigable waterways – more than Amsterdam or Venice. The Broads was originally dug out in medieval times to provide peat for fuel. In the 14th century, these peat diggings flooded, creating the beautiful waterways we see today.
Visit Norwich - best-preserved medieval city in England (the Industrial Revolution left it unscathed because of a lack of fast-running water), largest permanent covered market in Europe, only city within a British National Park, hosts Europe’s best-protected chalk river and it was England’s first City of Literature.
Visit Norwich Castle Museum (undergoing a major renovation project, set to re-open 2025)
See a show at Cromer’s end-of-pier theatre
See Grey seal pups at Blakeney Point during the winter, when the mums come ashore to have their young
See red deer on the Holkham Estate in the winter
-
Stay at The Victoria Hotel on the Holkham Estate (accepts dogs)
Stay at The Wiveton Bell (accepts dogs)
-
Dine at Meadowsweet in Holt
Other Itineraries for Exploring with Bikes
Rye, East Sussex - biking, castles and wine in high Summer
From Leeds to Rye, East Sussex, on the south coast of England, my itinerary journal of our summer staycation.
Why Rye?
Rye’s distinction lies in being a medieval coastal merchant town that got rich through its being a member of the confederation of Cinque Ports from the 12th to the 15th century.
This group of towns across nowadays Kent and East Sussex were granted the local profits of justice in return for providing and maintaining ships ready for English Crown to use in case of need, principally in defence of invasion or attack by Danish or French forces. This role of maintaining defence contingents for the realm of England came with some benefits; namely some tax exemptions and a level of self-government and self-jurisdiction. In addition, their being ports meant trade and mercantile activities, which typically lead to wealth generation.
While all of that is long in the past, Rye has maintained much of its quaint and meandering medieval architecture and has reinvented itself as a tourist destination.
The area itself is also just at the edge of the High Weald National Landscape, a beautiful area of green and rolling hills, medieval manors and English winemaking.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Rye, East Sussex - on the south coast of England, right on the border with Kent
Based on driving from Yorkshire in July
Highlights include a visit to Bodiam Castle, cycling the gorgeous green-and-rolling countryside through pretty and historic towns and villages, and tour with tasting at an English vineyard
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Did the place live up to hype or expectations?
This area of the UK doesn’t seem to get any attention as a possible holiday region but I can truly attest that this is a gorgeous part of the country, ideally suited to a long break with all the makings of a great spot for a holiday. We found idyllic countryside, history-aplenty, unique architecture, some marvellous eateries, and well-surfaced and quiet roads (and many singletrack lanes) that were ideal for cycling. It felt peaceful, affluent, with plenty to do and not at all thronged with tourists.
Now, despite the hype on social media about Rye, Rye is worth maximum, one day of your time. A few hours will easily do it. What I would recommend is choosing to stay somewhere in the countryside around Rye because it is just so darn lovely.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Yes - 4 days is an ideal length of time to explore the area, for a relaxed mix of biking, history, food and relaxation.
I have said it before and I will say it again - 4 nights, Monday to Friday is a superb option for a staycation - feels like a full week off work, long enough to truly escape the daily routine and relax, but short enough that it doesn’t feel like overmuch in a place that is still essentially home.
Would I make another visit?
I could see us returning, not exactly to this location, but to the wider region of Kent and East Sussex for another summer staycation.
TRAVEL MEANS
Driving from Yorkshire took 5hr 45mins
It is a long distance, but that really contributed to the feeling of ‘going on holiday’ for me
ACCOMMODATION
Oast House - buildings designed and used for for kilning (drying) hops as part of the brewing process. They can be found in most hop-growing (and former hop-growing) areas and many have now been converted to houses - they are very distinctive and all over this region and not found much in other parts of the UK.
a delightful little self-contained annex
perfectly proportioned for a couple
very much ‘of its place’
a chance to stay in something quite traditional (low ceilings, stone walls, exposed beams, walled garden etc.) without having to hire out a large property - which is usually the case for this type of accom
just outside of Rye
National Cycle Network Route 2 just behind the house.
Day 1
Drive in the morning, collect groceries, arrive and settle in
For supplies, we shopped at both Jempsons and Rye Deli - both great examples of local food retailers offering great produce
Day 2
Visited Bodiam Castle: 30 min drive or 1hr 15m cycle from Rye, an archetypal 14th century moated castle with ruined interior - a glimpse of medieval splendour
Cycled around Bedgebury National Pinetum & Forest: 8 mile red singletrack route
Drinks & Dinner in Rye: Had some excellent bottled Belgian beers at The Outside Inn in central Rye. Dined at Tatners Street Kitchen in Rye - very modern casual dinery serving up the current on-trend American-style goodies like slow-cooked meats in buns, dirty fries, hotdogs and the like. Easy, tasty and atmospheric
Day 3
Breakfast: at Tibbs ‘Pick Your Own’ Farm - just up the road, a pick-your-own soft fruits farm and cafe with a superb view over the valley below. Fruits were in season when we were there. Highly recommended for a snacky breakfast or coffee and cake.
Long bike ride: Took in the sights on the bikes, following (most of) the Sustrans route: 20-mile Rye and Winchelsea Circular. A fairly challenging route on a mountain bike, with plenty of ups and downs for a physical challenge, and predominantly done on single-track country lanes. Very do-able on a hybrid or road bike also
Day 4
Relaxed & wandered around Rye: made breakfast, spend the morning chilling out then spent the morning having a wander around Rye
Late Afternoon Vineyard Tour, Wine Testing & Dinner: at Tillingham (20 min drive from Rye), a young and lively bio-dynamic vineyard just outside of Rye. Along with dinner at their superb restaurant, this was one of the highlights of our trip. I am no wine connoisseur, but still fascinating to attend their tasting event and learn more about their wines, English wines, the winemaking process and how they are attempting some radical practices in the pursuit of making great wine.
Day 5
Drove home
-
Have breakfast, lunch, or dinner at The Figin Central Rye
Sissinghurst Castle Garden- a world-renowned garden
Walking tour of Rye's Huguenot history using theGeotourist app.
Cycle around Bewel Water (13 miles) - round reservoir route is open to cyclists, horses and walkers and is made up of forest paths, surfaced trails, country lanes and meadows
Visit Farley’s House & Gallery - former home of Lee Miller and Roland Penrose; Pablo Picasso stayed in 1950, and Max Ernst, Joan Miró, Man Ray, Leonora Carrington and Dorothea Tanning visited from overseas whilst Eileen Agar, Kenneth Armitage, William Turnbull, John Craxton and Richard Hamilton formed the British contingent. Works by many of these artists are displayed in the house in a selection that regularly changes as items are loaned to exhibitions in galleries around the world
Picnic on Camber Sands – a stretch of pale sand with a backdrop of massive dunes.
VisitGreat Dixter House – home of gardening writer and general place of pilgrimage for anyone interested in horticulture
Take a steam train through the Weald aboard the Kent & East Sussex Railway, travelling in the style of the steam train era. There are normally two steam hauled departures per Saturday & Sunday:
The morning departure leaves Tenterden at 10:40am and arrives at Bodiam at 11:30am. It then departs Bodiam at approximately 11:45am, arriving back in Tenterden at 12:32pm.
The afternoon departure leaves Tenterden at 1:15pm, arrives at Bodiam at 2:00pm, before departing at approximately 2:15pm, arriving back in Tenterden at 3:07pm.
For a more established vineyard, visitChapel Down
Tastes of the British Isles
Central Cornwall - an active mid-week stay in Spring
Itinerary journal of my springtime holiday in Cornwall. Where we ate, what we saw and how we enjoyed biking around the countryside.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 day independent itinerary for Central-Eastern Cornwall, based on driving from Leeds, in April
Highlights include Charlestown, Tintagel castle, dinner at Rick Stein’s, biking the Camel Trail and of course, eating famous Cornish treats like the pasty and cream tea
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to expectations?
The only reason I booked this was that the pandemic forced me to consider staycation options. I myself have never paid attention to Cornwall, resistant mainly because it felt like too ‘obvious’ a choice, and since novel and unfamiliar cultural experiences is one of the main reasons I enjoy travel, holidaying on UK soil is usually very low down the list of options. Needs must in this case. Research turned up interesting historical sites, strong food culture and a countryside ideal for exploration by bike which is all the typical hallmarks of a destination we enjoy, so I booked.
Despite this, I still felt a bit bratty about it before we went; like I was being punished and not being allowed to travel abroad so this was like a version of being grounded…………..but having been and come back, I have completely amended my viewpoint.
Cornwall is not famous for nothing! I think its reputation a holiday destination is well-deserved - the countryside is attractive, there is plenty to see and do wherever you are in the peninsula and the food is great. I found the North Coast less attractive than the South Coast. It also felt like an island to me when we were there; the sea is almost always in view, which adds to the illusion of being ‘away’.
Turns out, staying in the UK can be just as enjoyable a holiday as going abroad, especially if the purpose is to just relax and enjoy some simple pleasures.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Cornwall is a very very long way from Yorkshire, so travelling such a distance means a weekend is really out of the question.
4 nights felt spot on for us - this was my Mum’s suggestion and one I will use again - 7 full nights would probably feel like too much for us in the UK.
She also recommended we stay Monday to Friday which was genius; you get the weekend before and after which both gives you time to organise yourself and also sort of ‘elongates’ the holiday into still feeling like a full week off work.
Side bonus is that Mon-Thu rates are oftentimes a touch cheaper than the weekends.
We had a mixture of activity, culture and history; and there wasy plenty more to do besides where we got to.
Would I make another visit?
In short, despite my reservations, I would, and probably will, go back.
WHEN
April
Very end of Spring
LIGHT & WEATHER
Long days, likely warm (not hot)
Sunrise: 06:56am to 05:57am
Sunset: 19:52pm to 20:38pm
14-15 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car & Bike
Driving from Yorkshire to Cornwall, with an overnight rest-stop in Bristol on the way down. About 6.5 hours each way.
Bike for activities whilst there.
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed in this Airbnb
This place was marvellous - very rurally located, luxury and modern, extremely well suited for a couple, with a fabulous little Japanese-style deep-seated bath and outdoor barbeque. Highly highly recommended.
SCHEDULE
DAY 1
Drive to Bristol; overnight in a Travelodge
DAY 2
Drive from Bristol, settle in
Biked The Camel Trail: a disused railway line that has been converted into an easy, mostly flat, bike trail
Cream tea at Tim’s Place in Wadebridge: very enjoyable and very attentive service (particularly for a cafe - felt more like proper restaurant waitress service)
Dined on the outdoor roof terrace at Rick Stein’s The Seafood Restaurant - this was when outdoor eating was the only option and admittedly, it was a bit too chilly to really fully enjoy it but we were so thrilled just to be in a restaurant, we still had a good time. Food, service and setting were all lovely.
DAY 3
Biked from Charlestown to The Lost Gardens of Heligan along Route 3 of the National Cycle Network - about 1hr each way. Enjoyed a leisurely afternoon wandering the ground and gardens before returning to Charlestown
DAY 4
Visited English Heritage site, Tintagel Castle. It is deservedly famous this place - a very large and imposing ruin of a castle perched on the north coast and spread over a large area. We spent a good few hours walking around imagining what it would have been like hundreds and hundreds of years ago. Recommended, especially as an off-weather day (which we had) - the blustery overcast and changeable weather just added to the atmosphere.
DAY 5
Had breakfast at St Kew Farmshop: this was KNOCKOUT!! Its a place for locals, so well off the tourist trail and you need a car to reach it, but it is worth it. Cafe and Farmshop combined, we had a delicious and healthy breakfast of pimped-up mushrooms on toast and a sausage-cheese English Muffin, and purchased local beef steak and asparagus for a barbecue at our accommodation later in the stay. They also have a lovely outdoor seating area looking over a small garden. Highly highly recommended
Wandered around Fowey (pronounced ‘foy’): a delightful little town on the south coast filled with independent shops and outlets. Just meandered the steep and narrow streets, drank coffee, soaked up the vibe, perused the little shops and admired the street art. If I was to recommend a place to stay in Cornwall, this would be it - the nicest town we visited on our stay
Ate freshly baked Cornish pasties from both Malcolm Barnecutts in Wadebridge, and Sarah’s Pasty Shop in Looe - both excellent. Controversially, the Cheese & Onion was my favourite
DAY 6
Drive home
Ideas for another visit
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Stay in Falmouth for a bit of an arty ‘city break’
Stay in Penzance for close proximity to Lands End and access to the Scilly Isles - itinerary here
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Stay in this converted Engine House for a uniquely Cornish accommodation
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Visit the Museum of Global Communications in Porthcurno - apparently, in 1870, the first international telegraph cable was brought ashore at Porthcurno, connecting Britain to India and later other parts of the British Empire. By the start of World War II, Porthcurno was a critical hub for allied communications with 14 cables coming ashore, carrying some 70% of all communications. Looks fascinating
Book in to see a performance at The Minack Theatre - an open air theatre on the cliffside overlooking the sea
Visit Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens near Penzance
Go to The Eden Project - on everyone’s list really, but unfortunately closed when we visited
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Visit Nancarrow Farm for one of their famed Feasts or Sunday Lunch with home-reared organic meat
Summer Sewing projects for a UK staycation
