Uist and Barra in the Outer Hebrides - riding with white sand views
A trip for leisure riding the Outer Hebrides, with a spot of the weaver’s craft thrown in.
Itinerary At A Glance
5-night independent itinerary for the Uist islands and Barra in the Outer Hebrides, based on driving from Yorkshire and using ferries as needed, in early June.
Highlights include circular rides on North Uist and South Uist, with stops at ancient monuments and wild beaches, a fresh seafood platter, a tour of the machair habitat and time to stroll white sands with optional bracing Atlantic dip
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Early June
This is shoulder season - before the main school holidays, so quieter roads and easier bookings. Book ferries and accommodation in advance, but less pressure than July/August.
Weather is mild (average highs 14–15°C), but highly changeable: expect sun, wind, and the odd shower.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 04:30am to 4:26am
Sunset: 10:15pm to 10:31pm
approx. 17-18 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car and ferry, own bikes for activities
Drive to Ullapool, ferry to Lochmaddy, then drive to your base.
Causeways connect North Uist, Bernerary, Benbecula, South Uist, and Eriskay; there is a short ferry connecting Eriskay to Barra, as well as to South Uist and to Oban on the mainland.
Road bikes or hybrids are ideal; all routes are on tarmac, with some optional gravel detours.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Drive north, ferry to Lochmaddy on North Uist
Collect groceries in Lochmaddy
Settle in, short evening walk on the machair
Day 2
Morning bike ride: North Uist loop (Balranald Nature Reserve & beaches)
Round trip, 38km, 180m climbing
wildflowers, birdlife, white sand beaches, stone circle “Pobull Fhinn”, RSPB reserve
Lunch picnic at from The Dunes Cabin
Afternoon: visit Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum & Arts Centre in Lochmaddy or find a local event to visit though Uist.co
Dinner: order and collect a local seafood platter from Lochmaddy Bay Prawns
Day 3
Morning swim: head to the beach for a morning dip
Bike ride: South Ford Causeway – North Uist Causeway loop from Bayhead
Round trip, 78km, 280m climbing
chapel ruins, white sand beaches, causeway
Coffee & Cake: The Oyster Catcher Bakery
Afternoon & Dinner: relax back at base
Day 4
Tour: Learn about the machair habitat on South Uist with Long Island Retreats. 2hrs, 4x4
Collect more supplies from their croft shop before you go
Visit: Mill and wool centre at Uist Wool
Day 5
Brunch: The Scandinavian Bakery at the Grimsay Community Association
Bike ride: Eriskay & South Uist loop on the Hebridean Way
Round trip, 68km, 340m climbing
pristine beaches, coastal views
Dinner: local seafood at Langass Lodge
Day 6
Relaxed morning: beach stroll or swim
Drive home
RIDING IN UIST
Riding here is a joy for confident leisure cyclists.
The terrain is rarely flat, but climbs are short and the roads are quiet. Expect a mix of open moorland, coastal views, and the occasional punchy hill. Attractions are well spaced for half-day or full-day rides, and there’s always a beach or café for a break.
The wind is a constant companion - sometimes a help, sometimes a challenge. Bring layers and be ready for four seasons in a day.
Other Countryside Itineraries
Shortbread
Recipe for plain buttery shortbread, topped with crunchy sugar. Tips for that ‘short’ crumbly texture you are aiming for.
Shortbread is easy. So easy. Anyone can make shortbread and there is absolutely no need to buy the ready-made stuff, which tastes not even half as good. It is so easy that I frequently make it while I’m cooking and waiting for something to finish.
Two tips.
One - use a food processor to cut in the butter. This is both faster than rubbing in with your hands, and produces a better, ‘shorter’ texture. Removing the heat of your finger tips keeps the butter as cold as it can be, which is the main factor for that ‘short’ crumbly texture you are aiming for.
Two - replace regular caster sugar with vanilla sugar, for a subtle extra bit of flavour. Vanilla sugar is an easy USU for spent vanilla pods.
PORTION SIZE
Makes about 20-24 small shortbread biscuits
TOOLS
Other than the typical kitchen equipment, to make these, you need:
a food processor
20x20cm square cake tin with loose base, 6cm deep
a cooling rack
INGREDIENTS
200g plain flour
¼ tsp fine salt
40g ground rice
75g vanilla sugar or caster sugar, plus extra for dusting
175g unsalted butter, chilled
METHOD
Blend ingredients - Weigh all the ingredients straight into a food processor. Blend until you have a texture of wet sand.
Prep dough for baking - Line the bottom of a square 20cm x 20cm cake tin. Tip the shortbread mix straight into the tin and press down with your hands – it will be very crumbly but should merge together with the weight of pressing it. Gently smooth the top with the back of a spoon so you have a fairly even depth throughout. Chill in the fridge for about 1 hour.
**************** WAIT 1 HOUR ****************
Prep oven - Heat the oven to 140°C fan, 160°C regular.
Bake - Bake in the centre of the oven for 35-40 minutes. It should be lightly tinged gold when done.
Finish - Remove from the oven and right away, run a knife around the edge and cut into equal sizes using a sharp knife and cutting all the way through to the bottom. Dust liberally with caster sugar and leave to cool before removing
**************** WAIT 30 MINS TO 1 HOUR ****************
STORAGE
Store the shortbreads in a cool, airtight place, but not in the fridge. They keep well for a few weeks.
The shortbread can also be frozen for up to 3 months. They will defost in 10-30 mins.