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Travel, Summer, Europe, Denmark Frances Lawrence Travel, Summer, Europe, Denmark Frances Lawrence

A Danish summer weekend with dance, architecture and Michelin stars

3 nights in high summer. My itinerary for a cultural and culinary weekend spent in Copenhagen with a friend.

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 3 night independent itinerary for Copenhagen, based on flying from Manchester, in August.

  • Highlights include an architecture bike tour, outdoor dance performance by the Danish Dance Theatre, food trucks, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and leisurely bike-riding in the city suburbs.

  • Based on a two friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.

 

Why Copenhagen in Summer?

Yep - Copenhagen is cool.

Summer suits Copenhagen. The city spills outdoors, into harbourside performances, street food markets, and long, light evenings that stretch well past dinner. It’s a season for swimming off the docks, cycling without a plan, and discovering how design features in everyday life here.

This itinerary starts with the familiar - a weekend in a European capital - but quickly veers off-script, avoiding the usual crowds and spots, and following a different line through this friendly, watery capital.


Honest verdict

Does the place live up to hype or expectations?

We felt Copenhagen exceeded expectations, with one exception - The Little Mermaid. Sure; she’s cute, and she’s emblematic of the city, but the sheer number of people crowded around her, all trying to get their instagram shot, was deeply offputting. I mean; you could hardly appreciate the sculpture for what it is.

Other than that, the food, the activities we did, the hotel we stayed in, the dane performance at the water’s edge, the morning yoga…………….literally all of it was perfect. Nothing I would change.

Did the itinerary work for the trip?

Perfectly.

One smart move was keeping the hire bikes after our guided tour. It gave us freedom to explore beyond the usual tourist zones. We saw parts of Copenhagen I bet tourists never see, because we could cover more ground. Copenhagen is also famously bike friendly everywhere, and its very very flat, so the riding is spectacularly easy. Suggest you get clued up on the hand signals given by riders, to indicate to each other when they plan to stop.

The outdoor dance performance was a highlight. It’s one of my favourite ways to experience culture while travelling; there is never a language barrier. This one, set against the water, was especially memorable.

Would I recommend it? Would I make another visit?

It is actually my second visit to Copenhagen, the previous one being in Winter, and the two seasons showed Copenhagen in two different lights. I feel we saw plenty on this trip that I didn’t feel we ‘left anything behind’.

If I returned to Denmark, I’d probably explore a different region, like the coastal sands or Odense. But yes, I’d absolutely recommend Copenhagen in summer.


WHEN

August

We got mild to warm, and dry. May be changeable. Long sleeves and jeans were useful. Not hot.


LIGHT

Long daylight hours.

Sunrise: 05:15am - 06:15am

Sunset: 09:15pm - 08:01pm

14-16 hours of daylight


TRAVEL MEANS

Flight, Bike hire


ACCOMMODATION

Scandic Webers, Vesterbro

Cool

Great breakfast

Chain


SCHEDULE

Day 1

Fly in the afternoon, arrive and settle in

Dinner & Drinks: Reffen Food Market. Took a ferry to this shipping-containers-as-street-food-market on the outskirts of town. Not only was the food good, but there was also culture, live music, and a wonderfully mixed crowd in a casual vibe.

Day 2

Yoga: started the day with a class at Copenhagen Yoga. In the summer they head outdoors to the Botanical Gardens.

Bike tour: Took a bike tour of city architecture with Be Copenhagen for an alternative view of city life and a chance to get further out than you would on just two feet.

Ride: Kept the bikes and headed out to the ‘burbs, particularly the areas of Nørrebro and Frederiksberg.

Dinner: at Amass (now closed), Michelin-starred restaurant with a strong policy around waste and sustainability. Delicioud multi-course but not twiddly-diddly food. Each chef served their course to us. The fermented potato bread was perhaps the greatest bread I have every tasted in my life, made from leftover mashed potato.

Day 3

Chill: Spent the morning relaxing

Lunch: Torvehallerne (Glass House) food hall.

Ride: Rode out to see The Little Mermaid, then Amager Strand city beach, passing through many of Copenhagen loveliest suburbs for a view of city living away from the tourist spots.

Dinner: Fiskebar (Fish Bar) casual restaurant on the site of an old meat market. Buzzy atmosphere and tasty food.

Dance performance: Watched Danish Dance Theatre in their summer performance schedule when they come outside to perform waterside. Beautiful backdrop, delightful dance. No Danish needed.

Day 4

Breakfast: in the hotel

Tivoli Gardens: Enjoyed a few hours in the city centre amusement park, well, amusing ourselves…

Travel home

 

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Travel, Summer, Europe, UK, Channel Islands Frances Lawrence Travel, Summer, Europe, UK, Channel Islands Frances Lawrence

Jersey - a long weekend in Spring

My travel itinerary for 3 nights in Jersey, Channel Islands. Walking, history and dining.

 

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 3 night independent itinerary for Jersey, part of the Channel Islands, off the south coast of England

  • Based on either flying in and out of Jersey from Leeds, or Liverpool

  • Highlights include gastropub dining on English-French fusion fare, pick-your-own pearl for jewellery, Jersey War Tunnels and craggy coastal walks.

  • Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and hiking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere

 

Why Jersey?

Elegant.

Teensy.

Historic.

It does rather pack a punch in terms of interesting things to do and see over a long weekend.

Much of it’s interest rests on the 5-year long German occupation, indeed the only part of the British territory under occupation during WWII, and theremnants and historical sites that stand testament to this cultural oddity are now visitor attractions.

As well as this though, there are plenty of beaches, coves and coastal paths for wandering, some excellent restaurants, and loads of trips and activities on the sea, which is always in easy reach no matter where you stay on the island.

Honest verdict

Does the place live up to hype or expectations?

What do people expect from Jersey?! Wealth and the remnants of war?? We got that. Some of the property is knock-your-socks-off-stunning, and there are leavings of occupation kind of everywhere.

I think what exceeded expectations though, was how picturesque it is. Tiny little valleys nestled in leafy woods that suddenly give out onto a view of the sea. Turquoise blue coves (the picture above is snapped on my phone with no filter). Ancient towers on the horizon. Harbourside restaurants.

The hotel was excellent, the walking was lovely, and the weather put on a very very good show, with blue skies, warm sun and a light breeze. Late May is a lovely time to visit.

Did the itinerary work for the trip?

3 days was just right. There isn’t endless amounts of stuff to do on the island, and it could become a bit same-y in my view. The one thing I wished we had seen was The Celtic Hoard at la Hougue Bie.

Would I recommend it? Would I make another visit?

Can definitely recommend it, though for us personally, one trip is likely enough. Maybe we’ll go back in another 10 years.

 

WHEN

Late May

The last week in May is a school holiday, so things book up quickly.

We got warm (not hot) the whole time. May be changeable.


LIGHT

Long days

Sunrise: 05:14am to 5:09am

Sunset: 20:58pm to 21:04pm

16 hours of daylight


TRAVEL MEANS

Fly direct from Leeds to Jersey with Jet2, or direct from Liverpool to Jersey with Easyjet

The flight schedule is more restrictive from Leeds Bradford, with flights only on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, whereas flights from Liverpool are daily.


ACCOMMODATION

Greenhills Country House Hotel

An excellent hotel - peacful, elegant and relaxed.

Being such a tiny island, and a popular one, accommodation choices are somewhat limited and what there is books up very very quickly. This needs to be booked very well ahead of time.


SCHEDULE

Day 1

Arrive; settle in.

Dinner: at the hotel


Day 2

Experience: Booked Pick-A-Pearl experience at Jersey Pearl - chose, and graded pearls for jewellery.

Play: Roccos Crazy Golf in St Ouen’s Bay. Open 9am – 5pm everyday (not bookable)

Walk: Took in one of the coastal path walks up near Plémont and the ruins of 14c Grosnez Castle

Dinner: Ate at Cheffins at Beaumont Inn


Day 3

Jersey War Tunnels: Book a ticket for an understanding of the island under German Occupation, the only part of the British Isles occupied during World War II

Walk: Took a walk on the east coast, taking in St Catherines, Archirondel and Mont Orgueil Castle

Ice Cream: stop at The Botanic Gardens at Samarès Manor

Dinner: Booked for relaxed dinner at The Old Court House Inn, in St Aubin’s - relaxed, yet polished pub dining, with an alfresco option. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.


Day 4

Breakfast

Morning in St Helier: See the Occupation Tapestry at the Maritime Museum in St Helier (12 panels, woven by islanders commemorating liberation from 5 years of Nazi rule)

Travel home


Ideas for another visit

 

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Travel, Summer, Europe, UK, England Frances Lawrence Travel, Summer, Europe, UK, England Frances Lawrence

Alnmouth, Northumberland Coast - a weekend in late Summer

My travel journal for a short, late summer break in Alnmouth. Sand and castles.

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 2 day independent itinerary for Alnmouth and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in early September

  • Highlights include morning beach walk, hike around Bamburgh Castle and fish lunch at The Potted Lobster

  • Based on a group travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere

 

Why here?

Alnmouth caught my eye as a quiet corner of Northumberland — easy to reach from Yorkshire, yet far enough to feel like an escape. It’s known for its sweeping beaches and dramatic skies, but the cold North Sea keeps the crowds away, making it feel like a secret.

I’d heard about a standout fish restaurant in Bamburgh (The Potted Lobster), which tipped the balance in favour of this stretch of coast. The idea was set: build an itinerary around seasonal eating, coastal walking, and the kind of scenery that lingers.

 

Honest verdict

Does it live up to hype or expectations?

I would say it exceeded our expectations in every way. What a gorgeous weekend.

Firstly, the quality of the beaches is just outstanding. Wide, golden powdery sand, and quiet. They are such sterling examples, it’s hard to believe how quiet they are. We personally enjoy beaches for the views (rather than the swimming orthe sunbathing), and these beaches are made for walks and running, and took our breath away as we happened upon one during a coastal walk.

Secondly, there is so much preserved history here. The villages along the coast are out of the way of heavy traffic, so they benefit from not being a throughway to anywhere else - you have to be going there to stumble upon one of these villages. This remoteness has probably protected them from rampant overtouristing or modernisation. Alnmouth was like walking back in time; an idyllic little high street full of character and clearly recently rejuvenated to make the most of its historic charms for the modern traveller.

From start to finish, thoroughly recommended.

Does the itinerary work for the trip?

Absolutely.

2 nights in Alnmouth felt correct for us, perhaps up to 3 nights would work. The charms of this massive county are rather spread out, from the AONB coastline in the east, to Kielder Water and Dark Sky Park in the middle, to Hadrian’s Wall on the northern border, but this, in fact, makes it an ideal place for short 2-night trips to sample a little of Northumberland each and every time.

We travelled as a family group, and had just enough going on to give structure to the trip without overwhelming us. Perhaps better would have been to do a group activity on the Saturday afternoon, with dinner at The Potted Lobster rather than lunch.

Would I make another visit?

I would certainly visit Northumberland again, though would focus on another area.


WHEN

Early September

The start of the shoulder season. Best time for sunsets.

We experienced a hot tail to summer, with 27C sunny. Expect anything from hot to cool and rainy.


LIGHT

Moderate daylight

Sunrise: 06:12am

Sunset: 19:59pm

14 hours of daylight


TRAVEL MEANS

Car

Drive from Leeds takes about 2.5 hours


ACCOMMODATION

The Whittling House, Pub with Rooms

situated on a gorgeous little street running down to the beach

luxury and modern

well suited for a couple

slightly tricky parking

excellent on-site restaurant

a touch noisy due to it being a pub


SCHEDULE

Day 1 - Friday

Drive in the evening, arrive and settle in at The Whittling House, Alnmouth

Dinner: at the Whittling House

Day 2 - Saturday

Lunch: The Potted Lobster, Bamburgh. Top notch fish restaurant

Hike: Walking loop around Bamburgh Castle & town, 14km

Dinner: The Joiners Arms

Day 3 - Sunday

Morning beach walk: there is a gorgeous stretch of golden sandy beach right at the bottom of the high street in Alnmouth. Late summer sees a hazy and fresh start to the morning, perfect for a morning beach stroll

Drive home

 

Back-up plans for rainy days


 

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Travel, Summer, Europe, UK, England Frances Lawrence Travel, Summer, Europe, UK, England Frances Lawrence

Cotswolds for William Morris - a weekend in high Summer

A friend and I visited Kelmscott Manor in The Cotswolds. Where else we stayed and ate.

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 2 day independent itinerary for Kelmscott Manor and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in early June

  • Highlights include a visit to William Morris’ summer home, Kelmscott Manor, a country walk to Lechlade, and dinner at Thyme

  • Based on a pair of friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere

 

 

Why here?

Visiting the Cotswolds? Pioneering.

William Morris? Would never have thought……….


Everyone knows the Cotswolds — it’s one of the UK’s most sought-after destinations. But that popularity can be a double-edged sword: high-season prices, packed villages, and the risk of a trip that feels more generic than special. I wanted to see if it was possible to experience the Cotswolds differently.

The idea started with Kelmscott. I’d never thought much about William Morris, but a friend mentioned it, and it piqued my interest. I began to dig into the area’s links to traditional English craft and design, and it felt like a good fit for a short, thoughtful trip.

I planned a two-night stay with a simple itinerary: Kelmscott, a countryside walk, and dinner — all easy to do without a car. We stayed at a pub with a restaurant, which made the logistics smooth and gave us a cosy base. I skipped the more obvious hotspots and Instagram-famous villages, aiming instead for a quieter, more grounded experience about English heritage.

Honest verdict

Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?

When it comes to these kinds of places, I think, there can be a hefty dose of disappointment when you get there as it is thronged to the rafters with tourists and you had to pay through the nose to stay there in high summer. Thankfully, this wasn’t our experience on this trip. We found Kelmscott to be alive with activity but not crowded, and there was nothing at all that we had to queue for. Thyme, similarly, wasn’t overdone nor packed with people trying to fill an Instagram reel.

If you have any interest at all in traditional England, and perhaps learning a little more about one of our most important and beloved artists, thinkers and businessmen, I can highly recommend a trip to Kelmscott.

Did the itinerary work for the trip?

Absolutely. We travelled as a pair of friends, and the three booked activties on Saturday - Kelmscott, walk, then dinner - was a perfect day of memories that we have regularly reminisced about since.

I think it would work equally well to stay a little further out and take a circular bike ride with Kelmscott as the destination.

Also, staying with the pub, with the benefit of a restaurant for dinner on the day of arrival and breakfast on the day of departure, made a 2 night stay very easy indeed.

Would I make another visit?

I would certainly visit Cotswolds again, though would focus on another area.


WHEN

Early June

Probably the most beautiful month to visit England, in my view. Spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.


TRAVEL MEANS

Car

Drive from Leeds takes about 2.5 hours


ACCOMMODATION

The Plough Inn, Pub with Rooms

literally a short walk to Kelmscott Manor

well suited for a pair of friends

slightly tricky parking

a touch noisy due to it being a pub

Kennet, 1883, By William Morris - Photo by Birmingham Museums Trust on Unsplash


SCHEDULE

Day 1 - Friday

Drive in the evening, arrive and settle in

Dinner: at The Plough Inn

Day 2 - Saturday

Kelmscott Manor & Gardens: Seeing up close and personal, the spot where William Morris (and his wife and some other artist hangers-on) would spend summer. The house is filled with remnants of his artistry, as well as that of his wife, Jane, and their life of collecting and making of beautiful things. The garden is also an absolute delight.

Walk: Walking loop from Kelmscott to Lechlade and back, 10km

Dinner & Art: Thyme - couldn’t recommend this place highly enough. The food was superb, as was the service, and the open dining room-kitchen-lounge area, which I believe was a converted barn, contributed greatly to the experience. Thoroughly modern and luxurious. We were also allowed a private view of the art exhibition that was on in the neighbouring space.

Day 3 - Sunday

Breakfast at The Plough Inn

Drive home


 

Sewing & Wearing


 

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Norfolk - Summer riding

Itinerary for a short weekend cycling break near the North Norfolk Coast.

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 2 day independent itinerary for Holt and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in mid-August

  • Highlights include a boutique hotel stay, long road ride around North Norfolk, and fish and chips at the seaside

  • Based on a couple travelling

 

Honest verdict

Does the place live up to hype or expectations?

Outstanding.

I would hear people announce how flat Norfolk, and while that might be true, before I visited, it led me to believe flat meant boring - not so. The landscape, the villages, the gardens………it felt like a view was peeking out around every corner and it was oh, so, quiet.

A spectacular introduction to Norfolk, leaving us eager for more.

Did the itinerary work for the trip?

Yes….and no, in that we could easily have stayed longer (there is enough to do), and this was quite a long drive for just 2 nights. A cycling weekend is perfectly perfectly suited for Norfolk though; a framework I would look to replicate again.

Would I make another visit?

Definitely; even this same area around Holt would warrant another trip for us.


WHEN

August

We got spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.

Can be changeable.


TRAVEL MEANS

Car + Road bike

Drive from Leeds takes about 4 hours


ACCOMMODATION

The Harper, Hotel

boutique, luxury

intimate

fantastic restaurant

impeccable, yet thoroughly modern service


SCHEDULE

Day 1 - Friday

Drive in the morning, settle in

Dinner: At The Harper

Day 2 - Saturday

Ride: Long road-ride loop around Holt, 73km (gpx download here)

Coffee & Cake Stop: Heydon Village Tea Rooms - absolutely delightful, in a pictureque village setting

Fish & Chip Supper at the Seaside: French’s, Wells-next-the-Sea - be prepared for a very, very long queue!

Day 3 - Sunday

Spa & Sauna morning: The Harper allows you to pre-book the pool, hot tub and sauna on an exclusive use basis for 30-minute sessions

Breakfast at the hotel

Drive home


Ideas for another trip

    • Visit Sandringham during the winter, for its annual light trail Luminate Sandringham

    • Tour The Boards National Park on a bike - 125 miles of navigable waterways – more than Amsterdam or Venice. The Broads was originally dug out in medieval times to provide peat for fuel. In the 14th century, these peat diggings flooded, creating the beautiful waterways we see today.

    • Visit Norwich - best-preserved medieval city in England (the Industrial Revolution left it unscathed because of a lack of fast-running water), largest permanent covered market in Europe, only city within a British National Park, hosts Europe’s best-protected chalk river and it was England’s first City of Literature.

    • Visit Norwich Castle Museum (undergoing a major renovation project, set to re-open 2025)

    • See a show at Cromer’s end-of-pier theatre

    • See Grey seal pups at Blakeney Point during the winter, when the mums come ashore to have their young

    • See red deer on the Holkham Estate in the winter

 

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Summer walking on the Suffolk Coast

My itinerary journal for a short weekend walking break on the Suffolk Coast, to catchup with a dear friend.

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 2 day independent itinerary for Walberswick and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in mid-July

  • Highlights include a walk around the Suffolk & Essex Coast & Heaths National Landscape starting in Walberswick

  • Based on a pair of friends travelling, for a short catch-up trip

 

Honest verdict

Does the place live up to hype or expectations?

Suffolk is perhaps unseen, as a holiday destination. It doesn’t have the Royal connection as Norfolk does, and for those of us in the North, it’s just that bit further away.

It is though, worth the trip. It is worth it for the quiet, for the history, and for the golden sandy coast.

Does the itinerary work for the trip?

Absolutely. This is a short shot-in-the-arm kind of trip, like an extended day out with a pal, with the walk offering great opportunity for a long catch up and some gentle exercise combined. I think it would work equally well for a biking stay, especially since the Suffolk countryside is flat without being boring.

Also, staying in a guesthouse, with the benefit of a breakfast, made a 2 night stay very easy indeed.

Would I make another visit?

I would certainly visit Suffolk again, though would focus on another area.


WHEN

Mid July

Spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.


LIGHT & WEATHER

Long days, likely warm (may be hot)

Sunrise: 04:36am to 5:13am

Sunset: 21:18pm to 20:46pm

17 hours of daylight


ACCOMMODATION

Corner Farm, Guesthouse

luxury and modern

well suited for a pair of friends

fantastic breakfast, with the best granola I have ever had (the owner kindly provided the recipe!)

absolutely silent


TRAVEL MEANS

Car

Drive from Leeds takes about 4 hours


SCHEDULE

Day 1 - Friday

Drive in the afternoon, collect groceries and settle in

Dinner: BBQ at our guesthouse

Day 2 - Saturday

Walk: Long walking loop around Walberswick, 13km (gpx download here)

Dinner: The Anchor, Walberswick - friendly, relaxed, casual

Day 3 - Sunday

Breakfast at the guesthouse

Drive home


Ideas for another trip

  • Dine or event at Suffolk Food Hall, Ipswich

  • Visit Kentwell Hall, one of the finest moated Tudor Houses in England and regular scene for history re-creation events

  • Bike ride around Suffolks’ Wool Towns - Lanvenham, Clare, Kersey, Long Melford

  • Visit Woodbridge on the River Deben

 

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Travel, Winter, Europe, Poland Frances Lawrence Travel, Winter, Europe, Poland Frances Lawrence

Warsaw - an off-season city break

My plan for 3 wintry nights in Warsaw.

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 3 night independent itinerary for Warsaw in central Poland

  • Based on flying in and out of Warsaw from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.

  • Highlights include touring the city in a Communist-era Fiat 126p, experiencing the annual Royal Garden of Light exhibition at the ‘Polish Versailles’ Wilanow Palace, enjoying Warsaw’s new and revived baking culture, and some cross-country skiing in one of the parks outside of Warsaw.

  • Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and active pursuits, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere

 

Why here?

Warsaw came onto my radar through a mix of unexpected recommendations. Paul Hollywood mentioned it in one of his baking books as a great spot for baked goods — oddly specific, but it stuck. Then I read a Telegraph piece about Warsaw’s emerging food scene, and Lonely Planet flagged Białowieża Forest as a winter destination, with Warsaw as the nearest airport. Add Poland’s reputation for good value, and the idea started to take shape.

I did some digging and found plenty to justify a city break: interesting eateries in a cuisine I barely knew, museums and tours covering Poland’s layered history - from royalty to Communism to Judaism - plus a modern cultural scene, all at reasonable prices. It’s also less obvious than Kraków for British travellers, which made it feel like a more original choice.


Annual Royal Garden of Light exhibition at Royal Palace at Wilanów


WHEN

January

January is, on average, the coldest month with harshly cold weather and the highest likelihood for snow, so I have made the itinerary with this in mind, focusing on indoor activities and those which can be done come rain, snow or shine.

This is an unusual time to visit but will see the city at its winteriest, see the Royal Garden of Light in the winter dark and better experience the warming effects of Polish vodka.


TRAVEL MEANS

KLM, from Leeds Bradford to Warsaw, changing in Amsterdam


ACCOMMODATION

  1. H15 Boutique Hotel, in the Suite or Prestige Suite - this kind of quality is usually outside of my budget but not in Poland!

  2. Smack-bang in Warsaw’s Old Town, a beautiful and very highly recommended duplex in a Gothic building

  3. Petite and perfectly-formed little apartment for 2

  4. Luxe and highly-modern apartment in the business district


SCHEDULE

Polin Museum

Day 1

Try to arrive in the morning

Visit the Polin Museum - documents the history of Polish Jews

Do a food tour with Warsaw Behind the Scenes - travelling in a vintage minibus

Day 2

Attend a cookery class with Polish Your Cooking - The classes take place every Wednesday and Saturday at 10.30 am and every Friday at 6.00 pm

Get to know more about the history of Warsaw and what it was like under the communist regime with a self-drive tour in a Communist-era Fiat 126p (being an all-round car enthusiast, my boyfriend would love this) with WPT1313 Tours

Have dinner at Hala Koszyki Market - Located in an Art Nouveau market hall, it combines a day food market, a night street food market, a and event space all under one roof. Supposedly a hit with locals and is open every weekend from 8am until 1am.

See some live music at the bar underneath the National Opera of Poland’s Grand Theatre

A winter dawn view from the Vistula River

Day 3

Try cross-country skiing in Powsin Park. You can rent equipment in many places. Read more here.

Visit the Royal Palace at Wilanów, in particular, to see the Royal Garden of Lights at night

Book a table for dinner at Rozbrat20, as recommended by the Michelin Travel Guide

Day 4

For breakfast, get real bread from Piwonski Bakery at the Restaurant Femina , Al. Jana Pawła II 38 (Opening hours Mon - Fri: 7.00 - 20.00, Sat: 7.30-15.00)

Wander around Śródmieście - both Old and New Town

Leave in the afternoon

 

ABOUT WARSAW’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

Warsaw is a rough oval, bissected north-to-south by the Vistula river. The main neighbourhoods are as follows:

Śródmieście - beside the Vistula River, the heart and centre, both Old and New Town. The most central district in Warsaw, Śródmieście is the financial, commercial and cultural centre of the city and boasts the tallest buildings, the most important museums, galleries, restaurants, and theatres. On the west bank of the river runs the Vistulan Boulevard, a contemporary promenade dotted with waterside bars and cafes - not to be missed for a stroll and a bite to eat as you people-watch

Wola - highly urbanized commercial area with lots of skyscrapers. It used to be an industrial district and today is where many multinational corporations have decided to base their offices - as such, many residential buildings have popped up alongside in the form of modern flats. Highly accessible place to stay as an alternative to Śródmieście

Mokotów, Żoliborz and Ochota - all three of these are green, tranquil, and quite fashionable residential districts in easy reach of the city centre, some of the most desirable places to actually live in the city. Not loads and loads to see for a tourist, but one option is Królikarnia in the Mokotów district - a palace and a park for a stroll (and a picnic or icecream in warm weather)

Praga Północ (Praga North) and Praga Południe (Praga South) - Located on the east bank of the Vistula River, the Praga district is the only location in Warsaw where the buildings have remained untouched by the war. This part of the city still has a very bad reputation among many Varsovians because in the past this was a very dangerous and poor area of the city (its nickname was The Bermuda Triangle). Nowadays, especially on its southern side, this district is becoming the home to its alternative, avantgarde culture, a trendy hotspot in Warsaw, with art galleries, artists’ ateliers, cool restaurants, and pubs. However charming and vibrant, this is still the district with the highest unemployment rate and the poorest population, so at least a little care should be taken.

Wilanów - A district far outside the centre of Warsaw, it is famous for its baroque palace, the Wilanów Palace, which is sometimes referred to as the Polish Versailles. Other than this, it features large, wild, underdeveloped areas which allows for outdoor activities such as biking, golf, and kayaking along the Vistula.

 

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