Paris, Cannes and Grasse - a journey for Autumn
Travelling with a friend, we start in Paris, and end in Cannes. A 6-night cultural and olfactory journey for early autumn.
Itinerary At A Glance
6 night independent itinerary for Paris and Cannes, based on flying from Leeds, in September with a train journey between French locations
Highlights include a perfume-making course in Grasse with a visit to the flower garden of the International Perfume Museum, tour of Cannes with a screenwriter, picnic and snorkelling on the Lérins islands, and dinner at glamorous La Petite Maison overlooking the Bay of Cannes.
Based on a two friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Grasse is widely known as the world capital of perfumery, but its story begins with leather. In the 16th century, local tanners began scenting their goods to mask the strong smell of treated hides. This sparked a transformation: the hills around Grasse were soon planted with jasmine and roses, feeding the stills of the region’s earliest perfumers.
Today, Grasse remains a working centre of fragrance. Chanel still cultivates the rare Rose de Mai here for its iconic No. 5. Dior’s François Demachy established Les Fontaines Parfumées, a laboratory dedicated to scent innovation. And heritage houses like Galimard, Fragonard, and Molinard continue to produce perfumes using traditional methods.
Inspiration for my itinerary began with a hands-on perfume-making session in Grasse, guided by an expert. But rather than stay in the city, we’re basing ourselves in Cannes — a short drive away — to enjoy the chic energy of this cinematic town while dipping into the craft and culture of the region. Fate intervened with work commitments in Paris, so we tacked on a short trip to the capital and took the opportunity to try the double-decker TGV train between Paris and Cannes.
WHEN
September
We found it to be warm, pleasant, sunny.
LIGHT
Moderate daylight.
Sunrise: 06:56am - 07:27am
Sunset: 08:04pm - 07:09pm
12-13 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Flight, Train, Car hire
Fly Leeds into Paris
Train Paris to Cannes
Car hire in Cannes
Fly Nice to Leeds
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Paris
Fly in the afternoon, arrive and settle in
Dinner & Drinks: Brasserie Bellanger - a wonderful French Bistro
Day 2 - Paris
Exhibition: Azzedine Alaïa, Of Sculpted Silence
Dinner & Drinks: L’Aller Retour, Marais - traditional French bistro for steak frites
Day 3 - Travel to Cannes
Train journey: Depart Paris in the morning on a fast non-stop train to Cannes (roughly 5 hours)
Dinner: at home
Day 4 - Cannes
Lunch: took a long (slightly boozy!) lunch at Le Roof
Island afternoon: Took the water taxi to the Lérins island, Sainte-Marguerite. We walked the 7.4km coastal route, done in about 2h.
Alternative ideas: Get up early, pack a picnic and snorkelling gear, and head to Sainte Marguerite in the morning to also visit the Musée du Masque de Fer et du Fort Royal and snorkel the Underwater Ecomuseum by British sculptor, Jason deCaires Taylor. Have a picnic lunch in a well-chosen spot.
Dinner: at home
Day 5 - Cannes
City tour with a screenwriter: Booked this cinema-focused tour for a guided insight into how Cannes became such a juggernaut in the film industry.
Alternative ideas: Visit Le marché Forville (The Forville Market) to collect breakfast supplies and try a socca for sustenance.
Relax: spent the rest of the afternoon chilling out
Aperitif: Apéritif hours—l’heure de l’apéro—are usually 6pm to 8pm and a cherished part of the French day, not to mention an ideal pre-dinner ritual. The Dandy Club is my pick.
Dinner: at Aux Bons Enfants, relaxed bistro in its fourth generation of ownership - delightful. Advance booking essential (like many restaurants, note closed on a Sunday and Monday) and cash only.
Day 6 - Cannes & Grasse
Market-day Breakfast: Drove to Saint-Paul-de-Vence (50 mins driving, 28km) for a wander around
Day in Grasse for perfumery-making workshop: Drove to Grasse (40 mins driving, 22km) for a private Haute-Couture perfume creation workshop at Studio des Fragrances Galimard (2 hours, advance booking essential). FAN-FLIPPING-TASTIC. Worth every penny.
Alternative ideas: On the way back to Cannes, stop at Jardin du Musée International de la Parfumerie for a tour of the perfume gardens organised by olfactory note and current exhibition ‘Vibrations du vivant’ by glass artist, Antoine Pierini.
Dinner: Dressed up for a sunset dinner at LA PETITE MAISON, part of the legedary Palm Beach complex on La Croisette, hotspot for the glamour crowd since its construction in 1928, and with a panoramic view from Cap d'Antibes back to the Lérins Islands. Very, very glamourous.
Day 7 - Cannes, Travel home
Travel home: Fly from Nice back to Leeds
Ideas for another visit
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Maison Carla Rosa- boutique hotel in the style of a Californian villa split into luxurious apartments
Villa des Parfums - for a bigger groupes here
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IN OR NEAR CANNES
As an alternative to Sainte-Marguerite, visit Saint-Honorat, which has been inhabited by Cistercian Monks since the 5th century (410 CE). Walks, swimming and panoramic views are all on the agenda. Have a picnic lunch in a well-chosen spot. The monks have also produce liqueurs (La Lérina) olive oil and lavender. All for sale in the Lérins Abbey shop.
Book a Wine-And-Vine day with the monks on St Honarat, to learn about their wine production on the island (first Friday of each month only)
Rent a solar boat (no license necessary) for a morning or afternoon to visit the Bay of Cannes
Head out to The Estérel Massif (west of Cannes) for walking, mountain biking or trekking
Relax, swim, enjoy a picnic or do some kayaking at Lac de Saint-Cassien
IN PARIS
For a Friday in Paris, book a Guided Tour with Textile Tours of Paris. Led by a couture embroiderer around the haberdasheries of Paris, telling the fascinating story of how Paris became the capital of luxury textiles and fashion.
IN OR NEAR GRASSE
Two-part guided tour themed around one perfume flower, led by a gardener and a perfumer, at the Jardins du Musee International du Parfum (once per month between April and October, Saturdays at 10am)
Visit Grasse in May, for the annual ExpoRose Festival to celebrate the rich history of perfume and local floral agriculture. Roses garland the streets of Grasse creating a stage and inspiration for dance, theatre, music, exhibitions, workshops, demonstrations, screenings, concerts and artistic performances at every street corner.
Course at Grasse Institute of Perfumery, to take the perfume-learning even further
Once-per-week guided visits at Domain de Manon, flower-growers and cultivators whose produce is exclusively destined for use in Christian Dior perfumes. Offered during the appropriate harvest season for each flower (rose in May, jasmine and tuberose in August, September and October)
Fragonard factory, for insight into the process of making both the raw materials and the perfumes
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Aperitifs at Le Roof, rooftop bar at 5 star hotel, Five Seas
Cabaret Dinner: at Medusa Cannes - built in the 1930’s, this cabaret restaurant was revived in 2018, offering dining and performance in one experience
Other French Inspirations
A Danish summer weekend with dance, architecture and Michelin stars
3 nights in high summer. My itinerary for a cultural and culinary weekend spent in Copenhagen with a friend.
Itinerary At A Glance
3 night independent itinerary for Copenhagen, based on flying from Manchester, in August.
Highlights include an architecture bike tour, outdoor dance performance by the Danish Dance Theatre, food trucks, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and leisurely bike-riding in the city suburbs.
Based on a two friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.
Why Copenhagen in Summer?
Yep - Copenhagen is cool.
Summer suits Copenhagen. The city spills outdoors, into harbourside performances, street food markets, and long, light evenings that stretch well past dinner. It’s a season for swimming off the docks, cycling without a plan, and discovering how design features in everyday life here.
This itinerary starts with the familiar - a weekend in a European capital - but quickly veers off-script, avoiding the usual crowds and spots, and following a different line through this friendly, watery capital.
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
We felt Copenhagen exceeded expectations, with one exception - The Little Mermaid. Sure; she’s cute, and she’s emblematic of the city, but the sheer number of people crowded around her, all trying to get their instagram shot, was deeply offputting. I mean; you could hardly appreciate the sculpture for what it is.
Other than that, the food, the activities we did, the hotel we stayed in, the dane performance at the water’s edge, the morning yoga…………….literally all of it was perfect. Nothing I would change.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Perfectly.
One smart move was keeping the hire bikes after our guided tour. It gave us freedom to explore beyond the usual tourist zones. We saw parts of Copenhagen I bet tourists never see, because we could cover more ground. Copenhagen is also famously bike friendly everywhere, and its very very flat, so the riding is spectacularly easy. Suggest you get clued up on the hand signals given by riders, to indicate to each other when they plan to stop.
The outdoor dance performance was a highlight. It’s one of my favourite ways to experience culture while travelling; there is never a language barrier. This one, set against the water, was especially memorable.
Would I recommend it? Would I make another visit?
It is actually my second visit to Copenhagen, the previous one being in Winter, and the two seasons showed Copenhagen in two different lights. I feel we saw plenty on this trip that I didn’t feel we ‘left anything behind’.
If I returned to Denmark, I’d probably explore a different region, like the coastal sands or Odense. But yes, I’d absolutely recommend Copenhagen in summer.
WHEN
August
We got mild to warm, and dry. May be changeable. Long sleeves and jeans were useful. Not hot.
LIGHT
Long daylight hours.
Sunrise: 05:15am - 06:15am
Sunset: 09:15pm - 08:01pm
14-16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Flight, Bike hire
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Fly in the afternoon, arrive and settle in
Dinner & Drinks: Reffen Food Market. Took a ferry to this shipping-containers-as-street-food-market on the outskirts of town. Not only was the food good, but there was also culture, live music, and a wonderfully mixed crowd in a casual vibe.
Day 2
Yoga: started the day with a class at Copenhagen Yoga. In the summer they head outdoors to the Botanical Gardens.
Bike tour: Took a bike tour of city architecture with Be Copenhagen for an alternative view of city life and a chance to get further out than you would on just two feet.
Ride: Kept the bikes and headed out to the ‘burbs, particularly the areas of Nørrebro and Frederiksberg.
Dinner: at Amass (now closed), Michelin-starred restaurant with a strong policy around waste and sustainability. Delicioud multi-course but not twiddly-diddly food. Each chef served their course to us. The fermented potato bread was perhaps the greatest bread I have every tasted in my life, made from leftover mashed potato.
Day 3
Chill: Spent the morning relaxing
Lunch: Torvehallerne (Glass House) food hall.
Ride: Rode out to see The Little Mermaid, then Amager Strand city beach, passing through many of Copenhagen loveliest suburbs for a view of city living away from the tourist spots.
Dinner: Fiskebar (Fish Bar) casual restaurant on the site of an old meat market. Buzzy atmosphere and tasty food.
Dance performance: Watched Danish Dance Theatre in their summer performance schedule when they come outside to perform waterside. Beautiful backdrop, delightful dance. No Danish needed.
Day 4
Breakfast: in the hotel
Tivoli Gardens: Enjoyed a few hours in the city centre amusement park, well, amusing ourselves…
Travel home
Other Scandinavian Inspirations
Harbours to Highlands. A New England road trip itinerary for Summer
A summer touring holiday through New England - Maine, Vermont a Boston.
Itinerary At A Glance
16 night independent touring itinerary for Massachussetts, Maine and Vermont, taking a circular route, starting and finishing in Boston
Based on flying into Boston, and hiring a car for the entirety of the trip
Highlights include cycling the pine forests of Maine, a boat trip out of Boothbay Harbour, burnt ends at Bluebird BBQ, Saturday Farmers Market in Burlington, SUP yoga on Lake Champlain, MTB riding all over the Green Mountain State, Boston Walking Tour and seeing the Red Sox vs The Yankees play at traditional Fenway Park
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Maine is a long-time holiday destination for domestic tourists though most British people visit New England for the autumn colours, or ‘leaf peeper’ tourists as they are affectionately known locally. We bucked this trend and headed there in high summer, hence, we went without too much expectation.
What we found was green, grand and glorious. Maine smells of pine trees, Lake Champlain is breathtakingly beautiful, and Boston is just hip enough without taking itself too too seriously. Maine in particular is a sailor’s paradise (I’m imagining here - I’m no sailor), with endless islands, coves and inlets to explore but we also found it a delight to explore land on two wheels. Vermont is a superb spot for two-wheeled activities of all stripes. All in all, a recommended spot for a summer visit.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Almost perfectly.
7 nights in Maine was a little too long for us; the location is better suited to folks who like to spend their time on the water - sailing, fishing, kayaking - none of which we do. 4 nights in Maine probably would have worked better for us.
7 nights in Burlington for us was also perfect - plenty of time to really get to know this active city and a lot of MTB options.
3 nights in Boston is ideal.
Drive time between destinations was perfect. Travelling in the car this way, we got to see parts of New Hampshire that we may never visit if it meant making a dedicated holiday there.
Would I make another visit?
Certainly to Vermont, and could even see us returning to spend more time in Burlington itself. The entire Lake Champlain region makes a fantastic destination for biking, whether road or MTB.
I feel I have now seen enough of both Maine and Boston to not return, though I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend either.
WHEN
August
Very warm and sunny was what we experienced for the majority of the trip, with the odd cloudy or rainy few hours.
Typically warm to hot, with rain.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 05:40am to 06:43am
Sunset: 20:18pm to 19:31pm
13-14 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Fly from Manchester to Boston, drive between locations, fly back out from Boston
We obviously took our car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as hiring bikes in both Maine and Vermont
ROUTE & STOPS
Drive 1,028 km, 11 hours 45 mins, over 16 days
Drive Yorkshire to Manchester; Fly into Boston
Drive from Boston to Boothbay Harbour (2h 40m drive) for a 7 night stay
Drive from Boothbay Harbour to Burlington (5h drive) for a 7 night stay; drive through New Hampshire’s White Mountains along the way
Drive from Burlington to Boston (3h 45m drive) for a 3 night stay
Fly Boston to Manchester; drive back to Yorkshire
ACCOMMODATION
Boothbay Harbour
Apartment called ‘Boothbay Harbour Cottage Apartment’ (no longer operating)
Lovely. About a 10 minute stroll from centre of Boothbay Harbour village, and a bakery-cafe just round the corner. Small outdoor space too for reading and relaxing on the warm summer evenings, a place where we regularly did and saw hummingbirds to boot.
Burlington
This carriage house studio apartment
Idyllic. Large studio apartment, kitchenette, private terrace overlooking the mature and immaculate garden, ample space for two (despite only being a studio), parking, located in quick and easy access to both central Burlington and Lake Champlain (each about 15 minutes’ walk). Recommended.
Boston
Apartment called ‘Boston Christopher’ (no longer operating)
Not recommended. Devoid of atmosphere, strange, looking at a brick wall.
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Fly to Boston; Drive Boston to Boothbay Harbour
About 9-10 hours flying; About 420km, 2hrs 40m driving
Boothbay Harbour - Day 1 to 7
Had several breakfast waffles at Mama D’s - with a porch terrace, rocking chair and clapboard exterior, this felt like quintessential New England to me. Good coffee and friendly service, located just outside Boothbay Harbour town, so full of locals for an authentic experience.
Cycled around Southport Island
Visited Maine Lobster Festival in Rockland. Got ‘lobster takeaway’ and watched the locals partake in mad games on the water a la Takeshi’s Castle
Went out on a sailboat with a local guide
Had plenty of blueberry soda - a taste of Maine for us
Day 8 - Drive between Boothbay Harbour and Burlington
Stopped in Jackson, New Hampshire for lunch and a leg stretch. Sought out the covered bridges of New Hampshire along the way.
About 420km, 5hrs driving
Day 8 to 14 - Burlington, Vermont
Had several bakery breakfasts at August First cafe
Cycled into the Island Line Trail into Lake Champlain - 45km loop follows Burlington’s waterfront via the Burlington Greenway and heads out on the beautiful Colchester Causeway three miles into the middle of the lake.
Rode the MTB trails at Cady Hill near Stowe - well worth a visit.
Rode the MTB trails at Saxon Hill, just outside of Burlington - flowy singletrack with boardwalks - recommended
Burlington Farmer’s Market comes to town on Saturday morning and offers a fantastic mix of ready-to-eat treats and tasty ingredients to take home and cook with. We had THE most delicious sour cherry bagel with a cream cheese dip, noshed in the square with the sounds of a guitarist strumming for the pleasure of the market crowd. Delightful.
Dined at Bluebird BBQ, in Burlington, for classic american barbecue, burnt ends and Vermont beer. Recommended.
Did some SUP yoga on Lake Champlain
Day 14 - Drive between Burlington and Boston
About 348km, 3hr 20mins driving
Day 14 to 16 - Boston
Booked tickets for Boston Red Sox vs. NY Yankees at Fenway Park - for me, one of the highlights of the trip, since we didn’t plan this! These two are ancient rivals - we couldn’t have been more lucky to have them be playing each other on the Saturday we were in Boston. A great experience, even for those uninitiated in the game of baseball. Great atmosphere and wonderful memory.
Visited the Patriots Hall of Fame
Took a Walking Tour with Boston by Foot - excellent. Informative and fun.
Had all-American sandwiches at Sam La Grassa in downtown Boston
Day 17 - Fly Boston to Manchester
About 9-10 hours
Sewing projects for a Summer itinerary
Quimper - an off-season active itinerary for Spring
A 7-night springtime itinerary with medieval Quimper as the base. Cider, cycling, springtime walks, crepes and art.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 night independent itinerary for the very northwest tip of France, using Quimper as the base
Based on travelling at the very end of winter/start of spring, driving there using the channel tunnel.
Highlights include discovering the Pont-Aven school of art, eating crepes in their cultural homeland, coastal biking
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
This is an alternative option for exploring Brittany in its off-season, using Quimper as the main base, for easy access to city, country, coast and culture, with all activities within a 1 hour drive or less.
Every image you will ever see for Brittany tourism - every website, every accommodation listing - will show Brittany in the summer time, bathed in gorgeous sunshine. It’s true that early spring is unpredictable in the northwest corner of Europe; we can get everything from blue skies and frigid air, to bouncing rain, to snow, freezing cold and biting winds, to very warm and sunny days hovering around 20°C. You just don’t know what you’re gonna get.
This makes it a brilliant month for a road trip, and a great month for venturing outside (dressed accordingly!) If the weather is just too much, there’s plenty indoor cultural action to amuse too.
Quimper is considered by many to be the ‘cultural heart’ of Brittany, and stretching from the coast to inland, there is the Parc naturel régional d'Armorique, a huge natural park with rugged granite peaks, moors & dense forests. Due to unpredictable weather, indoorsing will be a key fallback, so staying close to a city means cultural and foodie activities are in easy reach for when the weather just isn’t playing ball.
WHEN
April
Like the UK, April can be either cold and snowing, or warm and sunny, Take clothing options and plan activities that account for these unknowable circumstances.
TRAVEL MEANS
Drive from Leeds, using the Channel Tunnel crossing + Road Bike
Drive time is 12.5hrs. Alternative, similar travel time is to cross using the ferry from Plymouth to Roscoff
ACCOMMODATION
Near Quimper
Quimper’s countryside, being more inland, has much more of a ‘cosy’ comforting feel to it than the brazen and rocky boldness of the coast around Brest.
3 bed home on the banks of the River Odet
Auberge des Glazicks - Michelin-starred restaurant-with-rooms about 30 mins drive from Quimper
Hôtel Ginkgo - Just outside the city centre, boutique hotel with some rooms giving views over the River Odet
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Drive to Quimper - this is a 12.5 hour journey. Pack the car with supplies and plan the route with opportunities for break points
Check-in
Collect groceries
Day 2
Brunch or Lunch - with local cider at Le Sistrot
Bike ride - out to Parc botanique de Cornouaille (about 2hr bike ride round-trip)
Day 3
Crepe workshop - for the morning activity, book onto a crepe-making workshop in Benodet (25 min drive from Quimper)
Embroidery art - in the afternoon, visit the School of Embroidery Art by Pascal Jaouen in Quimper where they have regular exhibitions of artistic embroidery
Day 4
Relax - take the morning to chill
Walk - in the early-afternoon, take a walk in the Bois du Nevet (25 min drive from Quimper)
Evening Drinks - try local brew at La Baleine Déshydraté in Quimper
Day 5
All day bike ride - Start in the morning, bike out to Pont-Aven (4 hour bike ride round trip) and stop in at Le Musée de Pont-Aven to see their considerable collection of works from this area, most dating from mid-to-late 19th Century
Day 6
Walk - Take a morning walk in the Huelgoat Forest (50 min drive from Quimper)
Relax - Take the afternoon to chill out, read, draw, chat
Day 7
Spa day - Book a spa day of thalasso therapy at Valdys Spa in Dourarnez (30 min drive from Quimper)
Day 8
Drive home
Other April Itineraries
Stockholm - a workcation in Autumn
A work-meets-play autumn break in Stockholm. How we enjoyed a workcation trip amidst falling leaves and the last of the long days for the year.
Itinerary at a glance
5 day independent itinerary for Stockholm, based on flying in and out of Leeds in October
Highlights include mushroom foraging experience, golden sun slanting through golden leaves, baked goods, an ice hockey game and an in-depth look at the female founder of Svenskt Tenn, Estrid Ericson.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
Just like our last trip to Sweden, Stockholm exceeded our expectations. Compared to London, and in fact, the overall busy-ness of the UK, it is hard to credit that Stockholm is the capital city. So chilled. None of that pavement overcrowding nonsense. No wrestling to enter or exit the metro. Hardly a queue anywhere. Such a relaxing city, and a relaxed place to spend a few days. The nature and water is also everywhere, which adds to the tranquility.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely. We are experimenting with workcation formats, and this one worked. Getting to extend a city break by a few working days whilst there really lets us slip into the vibe of the city and get to know it far better than can be managed on 2 or 3 short and packed days.
Would I make another visit?
Would I…………..we could live in Sweden. Would love to see the city in both winter and spring, however, there isn’t the same volume of things to do in Stockholm as compared to some of Europe’s other capitals, so my suggestion would be to plan itinerary with 2 or 3 days’ worth of sightseeing, which will have you see a good chunk. It would be a great stop point for a longer road trip around Sweden.
WHEN
Mid-October
Autumn foliage
Cool to cold, bright golden sunshine (just as likely to get wet and grey)
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds, changing in Amsterdam
Fast train from the airport to the city centre. Throughout the city, we relied on walking and a little of the underground.
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed in this Airbnb
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Tuesday
Travel in the morning
Settle in
Grocery shopping & Late Lunch - Östermalms Saluhall
Day 2 - Wednesday
Work
Svenskt Tenn exhibition “ A Philosophy of Home”
Evening ice-hockey game - Ice hockey is probably the team sport most closely associated with Sweden, with the most prominent clubs in Stockholm being Djurgården and AIK. The ice hockey season starts in September and lasts to March and Stockholm has a couple of notable ice hockey rinks:
Hovet: Originally known as Johanneshovs Isstadion, Hovet is one of Stockholm’s oldest and most iconic ice hockey arenas and is home to AIK Hockey and Djurgården Hockey.
Avicii Arena: Previously known as the Ericsson Globe and Stockholm Globe Arena, this arena is commonly referred to as “Globen” in Swedish. It is a major venue for ice hockey, concerts, and other events. Closed for modernisation until 2025
Book tickets here
Day 3 - Thursday
Work
Day 4 - Friday
Wandered Stockholm on foot
VasaMuseet - home of a 17th century warship
Prince Eugen’s art collection at Waldermarsudde - Since 1948, Waldemarsudde has been open to the public, allowing visitors to explore Prince Eugen’s extensive art collection and his beautifully preserved home. Obligatory cafe on site. Closed Mondays, late night opening Thursdays until 8pm
Evening Meal at Meatballs For the People - delish, and highly unusual. Had the Elk meatballs against a backdrop of Y2K RnB party choons. Class.
Day 5 - Saturday
Day 6 -Sunday
Breakfast at Stora Bageriet - Just around the corner from The Royal Dramatic Theatre is the entrance to the bakery where breakfast and light lunch is served. We first went on another day and there was a queue out the door………….when we returned on our final morning, arriving just after 8am, we knew why. Had the most delicious Salted Vanilla roll………….
Travel home
Ideas for another visit
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Stay a couple of days on Grinda Island in summer - accessible from Stockholm by a 1 hour fast boat from Vaxholm, this island is the home of a traditional inn, where you can relax and enjoy the archipelago’s slow pace of life for a few days
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The light festival in Brunnsviken - Join locals in early November, to take part in a procession of lit torches to bring illumination to the start of the dark season
Stockholm Jazz Festival - Happens annually, in the middle of October
Walking Tour - https://www.viator.com/tours/Stockholm/Unique-walking-tour/d907-73361P1
Ghost Walk - runs 4:30pm to 6:00pm most days. Options in Gamla Stan or Sodermalm
Guided tours of the Riksdag (Swedish Parliament) - Each day between September and June there are free tours for 28 people. The tours are in English and start at 1:30pm
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Kanelbullens dag (Cinnamon Bun Day) is celebrated on October 4th each year.
September Sunset at Restaurang Slipen - If you prefer a sundowner to breakfast, at Slipen, you can also sit by the jetty in the early evenings and have a glass of wine and look out over the water while the sun sets over Beckholmen. In my view, September is the month for sunset’s in northern Europe, with the sun starting to dip and paint the sky with colour around 7:50pm in early-September up to 6:25pm in late-September
Other October Itineraries
Brest in Winter - combined biking with city break
Brest in Finisterre in the off-season. Winter hikes, thalasso therapy, eating crepes, and admiring the early sunset off the west coast.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for the very northwest tip of France - Finistère in Brittany - choosing the outskirts of Brest as the base
Based on travelling at the very end of winter/start of spring, flying in and out of Brest. Car will also be essential to move around.
Highlights include a winter hike around the Crozon peninsula, artisanale beer and lemonade, biscuits and a visit to one of the most important oceanogrphic centres in the world.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here? Why March?
Brittany is almost always shown in summer — search the internet and its mostly golden light and blue skies. But March offers a different perspective. The climate is similar to southern England: mild, wet, and unpredictable. Expect anything from crisp sunshine to bouncing rain, even the odd snow flurry. It’s not warm, but it’s rarely bitter — daytime temperatures hover around 8–11°C.
This trip uses the outskirts of Brest as a base, giving easy access to coast, countryside, and culture all within an hour’s drive. Finistère, the westernmost part of Brittany, is wrapped almost entirely by ocean. Like Cornwall, with which it shares Celtic roots, the region has an island-like feel: the sea is never far, and often in view.
Brest itself is a major urban centre, rebuilt after heavy WWII bombing. While it lacks historic architecture, it makes up for it with a lively harbour, a strong maritime identity, and a surprising claim - it’s considered the European capital of oceanography, home to over half of France’s maritime researchers.
In March, staying near a city makes sense. Weather may force changes, but museums, galleries, and restaurants stay open year-round. It’s a practical base for an off-season road trip, with plenty of indoor options when the outdoors won’t cooperate.
WHEN
March
Likely chilly (but not freezing)
Like the UK, March can be either cold and snowing, or warm and sunny, with spring bursting forth early. Take clothing options and plan activities that account for these unknowable circumstances.
LIGHT
Moderate daylight
Sunrise: 07:59am to 07:58am
Sunset: 19:02pm to 20:47pm
11-12 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
EITHER
Fly indirect from Manchester to Brest with AirFrance, transferring through Paris
OR
Fly indirect from Leeds to Brest, with KLM-AirFrance, transferring through Amsterdam and Paris
OR
Fly Liverpool to Nantes with Easyjet, then drive 3h 45m to Brest
In summer, there are many more flights, including Leeds to Brest via Dublin, with AerLingus.
ACCOMODATION LOCATION
Near Brest
Just outside of Brest is the Plougastel-Daoulas peninsula, which is easily accessible to Brest via a bridge over the water that connects the two.
There is also the commune of Le Relecq-Kerhuon, just to the east of Brest and giving right out onto the beach.
Either of which would make an excellent base for the delights of both city and country. The views in this part of Finistère are all about ocean, ocean, ocean.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Fly in the morning, drive in the afternoon, collect groceries, arrive and settle in
Day 2
Brunch: at La Coloc overlooking Brest harbour
Visit Atelier des Capucins: Former shipbuilding workshops, now the largest covered public square in Europe. A huge and diverse public meeting spot with food, performance, art, shopping…also accessible by cable car!
Visit ocean museum 70.8 maritime innovation gallery: Opened in 2020, and located in the Atelier des Capucins, 70.8 is a center for technical and scientific culture dedicated to the ocean, presenting maritime innovation in all its aspects.
Tour Tanguy: for an immersive experience of Brest’s long history
Day 3
Hike Crozon peninsula: Drive to Crozon for a hike
Day 4
Relax
Le Comoedia Galerie d'Art: contemporary gallery with a strong focus on street art
Brasserie Poem Brewery, making artisanale beer and lemonade (Bar open from 4pm to 12:30am on weekends, with tours of the brewery available Fridays only, 9am to 5pm)
Evening Show at Le Quartz theatre
Day 5
Travel home
Ideas for another visit
Visit Peck & Co, a gastronomy concept store, a dining boutique with various inspirations, a place where you can snack from 9:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m
Lunch at Le Castelach
In summer, visit the Crozon peninsula by sea, on board the Brestoâ or the Loch Monna from Brest
In the summer, every 4 years (next is 2028) is the International Maritime Festival, where a flotilla of traditional boats gather in the harbour from all over the world, alongside a programme of artistic and cultural performances
Other Off-season Itineraries
Donostia–San Sebastián - a Spring itinerary for fashion and food
Balenciaga, pintxos and bar crawls. My itinerary journal for a long rainy weekend spent in San Sebastian, Basque Country, with a friend.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Donostia–San Sebastián and surrounds, based on flying from Manchester, in May
Highlights include pintxos food tour, dance theatre performance, the Balenciaga museum in Getaria and dinner at 1 Michelin star restaurant, Alameda.
Based on a two friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does it live up to hype or expectations?
I would say I did have high expectations. There is a lot of hype around Donostia–San Sebastián. A major resort city and formerly the summer residence of the Spanish royal court; to say that this is a place under the radar would be false.
Luckily though, it hasn’t succumbed to too much tourism and maintains an authenticity, with a resident population who genuinely live and work here. We could tell that we were eating in pintxos bars alongside locals. The tours we took were thoughtful and warm, and the food was simply outstanding - again, in line with expectations of this being a ‘foodie’ destination.
From start to finish, the city is thoroughly recommended.
One area that did disappoint though, was the hotel. Basic, shabby, and trading off the view - not a place I would recommend.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
Perfectly.
4 nights is a great way to enjoy San Sebastian, with plenty of time for wandering and pintxos. Having a mixture of pre-booked cultural activities with time to just wander makes the most of a long weekend. The car allowed us to make trips to places closeby to give us more options.
I would recommend staying in the city centre though (rather than on the outskirts as we did) and note that we had a lot of rain when we visited in May. It may not be immediately obvious that Spain might be quite wet, but this part of Northern Spain is so, and it did rather put a ‘dampener’ on the trip, so to speak. Perhaps better to visit summer or autumn for a chance at better weather.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit the Basque Country again, though, I feel I have now seen enough of San Sebastián. My next trip to the Basque Country would be either as part of a tour of all the Northern Spanish regions, or as a tour across the Greater Basque Region including France and the Pyrenees.
WHEN
May
LIGHT & WEATHER
Moderate daylight. Wet. Cool. Overcast.
Sunrise: 07:01am - 06:31am
Sunset: 21:10pm - 21:41pm
17 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Flight & Car hire
Fly Manchester into Bilbao (BIO), which is about 100km or 1 hr driving from San Sebastian
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Fly in the morning, collect car, arrive and settle in
Day 2
Tour: Pintxos Lunch Tour with San Sebastian Food
Evening show: dance performance at the Victoria Eugenia Theatre
Day 3
Breakfast: found somewhere in the city - plenty of delicious coffee and cake places
Museum: Drove to Getaria to visit Museo Cristóbal Balenciaga (the Balenciaga museum), about 25km, 30 mins driving. Worth it.
Dinner: Pintxos bar crawl through the city
Day 4
Relax: breakfast, spend the morning chilling out
Wander the city: Small and compact, with a city beach - spent an hour or two wandering and soaking up the atmosphere
Dinner: at 1 Michelin Star Alameda - absolutely superb. Advance booking essential
Day 5
Travel home
Ideas for another visit
Take in San Sebastian as part of a tour of the Greater Basque Region, including Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Biarritz, Bilbao and the Pyrenees.
Visit Añana Salt Valley in Álava province. Visitors can take guided tours to find out about the traditional salt-making process and enjoy halotherapy treatments in the salt foot baths.
Take bike rides to see megalithic monument Sorginetxe, "House of Witches" , in Arrizala, Agurain, Cromlech Mendiluze and Dolmen de la Chabola de la Hechicera
Take in San Sebastian as part of a tour of all four of Spain’s northern coastal regions - Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia
Sewing projects for a Spring itinerary
Krakow - learning Polish in Winter
My itinerary journal for 9 frigid nights spent in Krakow learning Polish, in January. Heavy snow and hard pronunciation…..also excellent pierogi and a delightful surrealist art find.
Why Krakow?
Krakow is perhaps the jewel in Poland’s touristic crown. It is a former capital of Poland, famed in particular for it’s architecture that miraculously escaped destruction in World War II, with that classic ‘chocolate box’ cuteness of Central European cities.
I have it in my head that Poland is the up-and-coming cool place to be. I am convinced this country has everything to offer the savvy traveller who likes to be off-the-beaten track but not out-in-the-wilderness. I think its got all the same draws as more well-known destinations like France, Croatia or Italy - great accommodation options, interesting cities which combine culture, history and modernity, pronounced seasons, and varied landscapes including coast, forests, lake districts, rolling greenery and mountains. The only lack seems to be beaches for sunbathing (I know many would argue there is the northern Baltic coast, but Baltic beaches aren’t known for their sunbathing potential). It is very easy to get to from the UK, with many flight options to Poland’s cities. To top it off nicely, the prices are much cheaper than should be expected elsewhere in Western Europe.
The trickiest thing for most is probably the language barrier…………and I love to learn languages and give myself new challenges so I thought, “hey, why not learn some Polish?!” So that’s what this trip was about - a one-week intensive beginners Polish course in Krakow.
Itinerary At A Glance
9 night language learning independent itinerary for Krakow in southern Poland
Travelling in January - specifically to see the city at its winteriest, and better experience the warming effects of Polish vodka.
Based on flying in and out of Krakow from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam
Highlights include an intensive Polish language course, pierogi-making workshop, Jewish history walk and the Unesco Salt Mines.
Based on a solo traveller, with a focus on immersive language learning, some leisurely cultural activities and tours suitable for travelling alone, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.
Honest verdict
Did the place live up to hype or expectations?
Krakow has a reputation for being pretty, and it was definitely pretty, though not quite as pretty as Tallinn for my money. There is plenty to do though I did find it on the brink of being a bit too touristy.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
9 nights was way too much for a city of this size, and only worked because I was attending a language course. Krakow can easily be enjoyed in 2 to 3 nights; it is small enough even for a 24 hour stopover.
Winter was harsh, very harsh, -12C on a few of the days and hardly ever above freezing. This made it uncomfortably bitter and hard to enjoy any activity that involved being outside, even just wandering around. I think without the comforts of a cosy home, friends and family to enjoy the indoors with, it wasn’t super pleasant being there in the height of winter for me. A better itinerary would be for the milder months.
Would I make another visit? Would I recommend it?
Now that I have been, I would say Poland is definitely worth visiting……….but not in the winter.
I can’t see myself returning to Krakow, though would definitely return to Poland but only in the spring or summer.
WHEN
January
January is, on average, the coldest month with the highest likelihood for snow, so I made the itinerary with this in mind, focusing on indoor activities and those which can be done come rain, snow or shine.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds, changing in Amsterdam
ACCOMMODATION
Fantastic apartment, very neat, modern and well-located, just 15 mins walk from the Main Square and 10 from the main train station. I found the desk and monitor a useful addition to my stay, so a small detail that could be helpful for business travellers or remote workers.
Anna Guntner, Polish surrealist painter
ACTIVITIES
One-week Polish language intensive course with Together School - note I chose to shorten their two-week offering
Anna Guntner exhibition - mid-century Polish surrealist painter at Nowa Huta Cultural Centre
City food tour - with AirBnB experiences. This was marvellous
Tour of Unesco World Heritage Site of Wieliczka Salt mine with Krakow Explorers
Took a luxury lunch and spa experience at The Copernicus Spa by L’Occitane in the historic Gothic cellars of the Copernicus Hotel
Jewish History walk - interesting and of course, poignant
Learnt to make traditional pierogi ruskie on this very personal AirBnB experience with Olga - this was fantastic
ABOUT KRAKOW’S NEIGHBOURHOODS
The main neighbourhoods for tourist activity are as follows:
Stare Miasto - the heart and centre, the Old Town. The most central district, the financial, commercial and cultural centre of the city with the tallest buildings, the most important museums, galleries, restaurants, and theatres. It is shaped almost like a lightbulb, with Planty Park encircling pretty much the entirety of its border
Kazimierz - just south of Stare Miasto, the funky, alternative and bohemian district, and the old Jewish Quarter
Podógrze - South again of Kazimierz, and across the Vistula river, another district vying for the title of funkiest and most up-and-coming. This one has that industrial warehouse regeneration vibe about it
Kleparz - just north of the Stare Miasto, mostly upscale residential, this is where tourists can see and experience life lived as a wealthy Cracovian
Ideas for another visit
Bike routes throughout Poland can be found here
For a more bike-concentrated trip, bike maps can be purchased here from Compass (though note they are only in Polish)
Plan Poland is a holiday company specialising in tailor-made holidays in Poland and they have the most fantastic blog with a wide variety of information about the whole country, including specifics about where to go biking, kayaking and the different cities - should I decide to take a summer biking trip, I will almost certainly approach these guys for an itinerary
Hotel Galery69 Design Hotel in the Masuria Lake District
Attend a 4-day haute couture sewing course at KSA (Kracow School of Art & Fashion Design)
Animal-tracking in the Białowieża Forest with Wild Poland
Schindler’s Factory - As immortalised in the film Schindler’s List, Oskar Schindler managed to save many Jews through his enamel factory, that he had converted to make ammunition and mess kits to ensure the Germans would not be suspicious of his activities. Schindler's Factory now houses a museum about Kraków under Nazi occupation alongside a contemporary Polish art museum, MOCAK, which exhibits national and international artists.
Eats for Winter
North Carolina - mountain biking, NFL and city break in Autumn
Travelling in early autumn, my itinerary for 10-14 nights in North Carolina. Biking, ball, art trails and barbecue…..all in the one place.
Itinerary At A Glance
10-14 night independent itinerary for North Carolina in the Central East of the USA: 3-4 nights in Charlotte, and 7-10 nights in Asheville on the edge of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
Based on flying in and out of Charlotte from Manchester with hops either in Munich, JFK or London. Car will also be essential to move between locations, as well as mountain bike hire in Asheville
Highlights include biking the Great Smoky Mountains, NASCAR, authentic BBQ, perhaps some live NFL and plenty ‘o’ beer
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
A friend ‘accidentally’ spent a day in Asheville on a US road trip and said it was the best stop of the whole two-week holiday — she wished they’d based themselves there. That offhand comment stuck, and kicked off my research.
In mountain biking circles, North Carolina’s gaining a reputation for world-class trails that fly under the radar. My boyfriend loves fast, technical riding, and I don’t mind a bit of singletrack challenge myself — so it looked like a solid fit for both of us. Add in the cultural side: breweries, art trails, city yoga, and maybe even a Nascar or NFL game if the timing works. It started to look like a place with range.
I’ve planned a twin-centre trip: Charlotte for a classic city break with Southern food, urban cycling, and a bit of American sports history; then west to Asheville, on the edge of the Great Smoky Mountains, for a longer stay that blends city buzz with outdoor adventure.
I’ve skipped the North Carolina coast — refinement has taught me I’m not a beach person.
WHEN
Autumn - October or November.
Conversely to the UK weather, October and November are historically two of the driest months of the year, and this time of year will see pleasantly warm days, cool evenings plus the beautiful colour change of autumn leaves. It would be lovely to get away from the UK at this time also - in my opinion, autumn is the worst season for weather in the UK.
Summer is swelteringly hot, humid and the rainiest time of year- it is much drier outside of the summer months
Try to time our visit with an NFL home game for the Carolina Panthers
TRAVEL MEANS
Getting to Charlotte will involve stops, almost irrespective of where I fly from.
With Lufthansa, Manchester to Charlotte with a 2hr layover in Munich
With British Airways, Manchester to Charlotte with a 1.5hr layover in London Heathrow
With Aer Lingus, Manchester to Charlotte with a 2hr layover in JFK
NEIGHBOURHOODS & ACCOMMODATION
Asheville neighbourhoods
Montford, north of downtown - heritage buildings, more suburban than touristy downtown
West Asheville - funky, up-and-coming, laid-back vibes and a vintage feel - a hive of activity for the music scene.
River Arts district - Restored, renovated industrial estate, home to cool warehouses and artists from all kinds of industries and niches
Black Mountain - 20-minutes drive east of downtown Asheville, in the shadow of the mountains, gateway to Pisgah National Forest and Mt Mitchell.
Self catering options, in order of preference:
Top-floor quirky and characterful apartment with fantastic views from the deck
Modern Airbnb bungalow with some great outdoor seating
Historic Carolinian home with outdoor veranda
Charlotte neighbourhoods
Uptown - the central business & retail centre
NoDa - the arty alternative area
South End - the cool renovated-industrial area
Myers Park - the greenest and grandest area
Dilworth - the charming and cute historic area
For this trip, and such a short buzzy stay in Charlotte, I’m fancying a hotel, and a good one - one that represents Charlotte’s historic past and modern future. It will have to be either:
SCHEDULE
Charlotte - Day 1 to 4
Day 1
Arrive; settle in & wander the neighbourhood
Day 2
Brunch: book at at The Stanley
Bike hire: Hire a bike and follow one of these self-guided bike routes in and around the city
Visit: the Nascar Hall of Fame
Day 3
Walking tour: Book onto one of these Charlotte tours - on foot, one to learn more about the history of the city
Visit: the Mint Museum for contemporary art, craft and design
Dinner: North Carolina is, after all, part of the ‘South’ and BBQ is important in this part of the world - pick any one of these BBQ locales for dinner
Day 4
Lunch: Enjoy some classic Southern cuisine at The Haberdish
NFL game: Book to see an NFL game at the Bank of America stadium
Day 5 - Drive between Charlotte & Asheville
About 130 miles, 2hr 20mins driving
Asheville & surrounds - Day 5 to 12
One of the main aspects of the stay will be regular mountain biking in the surrounds of Asheville. Options that strike my fancy are:
Pisgah Mountain Bike Adventures specializes in professionally guided trips in Pisgah National Forest and Dupont State Recreation Forest
The Tsali Trails in Nantahala National Forest are a series of mountain biking trails that offer a great combination of challenging but not overly technical trails, spectacular lake-and-mountain views, and convenient access
Big Avery Loop - gruelling 12.9-mile route in Pisgah National Forest. With difficult climbs and breakneck descents, this is not a route for beginners, but experienced mountain bikers will find many thrills here.
Take a day-trip south to Chimney Rock or go east to funky Boone
Asheville Trails offers lots of information on trails in and around the area - including a free self-guided walking tour that explores the city’s history, notable residents, architecture & local art with 30 stop-offs in places of cultural significance.
Namaste in Nature offers mountaintop yoga, waterfall hikes and a Sunset and Full Moon Yoga Hike (full moons March through October) on a scenic mountaintop with guided yoga and meditation.
The Wedge – two locations in the River Arts District it was founded by a metal artist and is adorned with eccentric and delightfully creepy art.
Smoky Park Supper Club, a riverside, casual, lively eatery set in a strategically arranged shipping containers and the kitchen specializes in all sorts of wood-smoked morsels, from char-grilled oysters to wood-fired mussels
Ginger’s Revenge - they serve alcoholic ginger beer that they brew onsite
Make a visit to Funkatorium, Wicked Weed’s industrial-chic taproom. In addition to being one of the most fantastically named beer joints in America, they are devoted exclusively to sour beers
Other Twin-Centre Itineraries
Turin - a winter weekend
Cold blue skies, motoring history and a truffley food tour in a city ringed by snow-capped mountains.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night itinerary for Turin, Piedmont, in Northern Italy
Based on flying from Leeds in December
Highlights include a visit to the Museo del Auto (MAUTO) and the rooftop Lingotto race track in the former Fiat factory, a marvellous deluxe food tour and some tasty sweet treats
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
Truthfully, I got a middling kind of enjoyment out of this holiday. Some of my enjoyment was dampened by Covid rules - Omicron swooped in just before we left, adding quite a bit extra testing stress. Once there, everyone everywhere was wearing masks, even outside, which made for a sort of dystopian, walled-off, disconnected feeling to the city for me. Then there was the tedium of having to show your Covid pass everywhere - not into that. Plus the whole city just kind of felt subdued………..just not quite enough atmosphere which I think stemmed from both Covid stuff and the cold winter weather.
I feel the online imagery paints a picture of a properly grand and regal city which is only really true of the very very centre and even then, just a few blocks. The lovely parts are very wide and long, almost boulevard-type streets, with large ornate buildings and piazzas with the most improbable view of the snow-capped alps at the end of the street - they look close enough to walk right up to them. Beyond this though, it just felt like any city - not particularly beautiful, nor original, nor atmospheric. Parts of it were also very ugly; I have never been in any city with as many graffiti-marred buildings as there were in Turin.
Would I make another visit?
Now that I have been, I don’t think I would go back.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
We had a pleasant few days but if asked, my advice would probably be to make Turin a 1-night 2-day stop-off on a longer trip or even a day trip from a stay in the Italian Lakes.
Lessons Learnt
Winter city breaks aren’t universally cosy. Our December trip to Tallinn made me think I love cities in winter — but really, I loved Tallinn. Turin didn’t offer the same warmth or charm, and it reminded me that not all winter city breaks deliver that feeling.
City breaks are losing their spark. I’ve had some brilliant city trips, but they’re starting to feel repetitive. Museums, food tours, shows, restaurants — all good, but increasingly familiar. The energy I used to enjoy in cities feels quieter now, and I think the pandemic has played a part. I’m leaning away from city breaks as the main event. For now, cities might work better as day trips or one-night stop-offs — not the centrepiece. I’m more interested in travel that feels a bit less predictable.
WHEN
December
Expect cold weather
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM from Leeds, with a hop in Amsterdam.
Very easy, with excellent layover times that weren’t too long.
ACCOMMODATION
A beautiful beautiful place, with original painted ceilings from the 1800s and a deliciously reassuring eclectic vibe. It was warm and cosy with all the mod-cons. Recommended.
FOOD
Had coffee and chocolates at Mara Dei Boschi - just on the outskirts of the city centre proper and we got lucky enough with a cold afternoon warmed up with a sunny sky while seated at their outdoor tables
Bought Roman-style pizza from Tellia which was FANTASTIC! Roman pizza is like foccacia that is baked first, then toppings added before another brief bake - it is very different from the round Neapolitan style pizza we are all used to
Went to Pfatisch, a traditional pasticceria just outside the city centre. Highly recommended for traditional miniature pastries with coffee at the bar. I particularly loved the bombolone alla crema
Ate at Michelin-starred Magorabin. This was high-end seven-course tasting menu, with very very attentive and knowledgeable service…….. but I wasn’t bowled over by this. The dining room lacked atmosphere, not helped by covid rules and the food felt a bit too try-hard.
ACTIVITIES
Visited the Automobile Museum
Took a Deluxe Street Food Tour of Turin - this was excellent, the highlight of our trip
Went to the Pinacoteca Agnelli, specifically to gain entry to the famous rooftop Lingotto test track - not bad but not great. We could not walk the length of the test track - blocked off presumably due to some stupid covid rules - so were constrained to just stepping out onto it then back in again
Wandered around Turin itself
Sewing & Wearing
Other City Itineraries
Stopover in Denver: a plan for 24 hours
My itinerary for a 24 hour stop in Denver.
Why stopover in Denver?
Denver is the principal city of Colorado state, between mountain ranges and prairie flatlands, known as the ‘Mile High’ city, and famed for its perpetually sunny climate. It’s roughly central if moving north to south in the USA, and about one third the ways in if moving west to east, so an ideal stop point for a road trip, or a schedule of flights.
Colorado’s varied topography and picturesque peaks and valleys makes it perfectly suited for outdoor pursuits regardless of the temperature; people come here to raft, fish, ski, mountain bike, horseride, run and hike year-round. That same topography makes for a marvellous road trip through the state if you aren’t the adventuring kind.
A stop off here promises craft beer
Itinerary At A Glance
1 day itinerary for Denver, Colorado in the central Southwest of the USA, packing in art, city tour and comedy show
WHEN
June, July, August or September
Pikes Peak Hill Climb is typically on annually in June, so coordinate a visit to be able to attend this event
ACCOMMODATION
The Westin, Denver International Airport
Since this is for a layover stop, avoid the hassle of driving into the city by staying close to the airport and use the airport train to travel into the city.
SCHEDULE OF ACTIVITIES
Clyfford Still, PH-1186, 1955
Courtesy of Clyfford Still Museum
Morning Scoot Tour: Book a 2 hr moped tour of the city. Alernatively, rent a scooter via the Lyft and Lime apps
Lunch: On Wednesday or Thursday, Civic Center Eats, rallys together the city’s food trucks and live music (spring through to autumn).
Art: Visit the Clyfford Still Art Museum - this artist bequeathed his work to any American city willing to house, display and care for it in its entirety. 20 American cities contended for the privilege; Denver won.
Wander: Confluence Park offers riverside walks
Dinner & Evening Comedy: Dinner on Larimer Square, for a view of the founding street of Denver and book a show at Comedy Works to round off the evening
Other Road Trip Itineraries
Bergen - an active itinerary for Spring
My imagined travel itinerary for 4-5 days in Bergen and the surrounding fjords. Biking, hiking and nordic dining
Why Bergen?
Its been on my list for a while - a second city renowned for being one of those ‘outdoorsy’ types. Might up our street.
I originally imagined this trip in December - picturing a snowy and cosy wonderland……..but this article disabused me of this idea. Apparently, the oceanic climate and presence of the sea and the mountains together cause plentiful rainfall but also gives Bergen a more temperate climate than its latitude might suggest. This is all further moderated by the Gulf Stream which means any snowfall melts quickly. Instead, I think a trip in May will be the most pleasurable, making the most of long days and (slightly) drier skies.
Bergen gained wealth and prominence as a major trade port and served as Norway's capital in the 13th century; nowadays it is Norway’s second-largest city, though small by many city standards at around 270,000 inhabitants which compares with Newcastle or Greater Norwich in the UK. Bergen is now a major cruise ship port and gateway to the Norwegian outdoors, most notably, the fjords. The outdoors, particularly the nearby mountains and waterways, characterise the city and the things it has to offer to tourists, with much in the way of hiking, biking and countryside-escaping opportunities.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Bergen, on the southwest coast of Norway
Based on flying in and out of Bergen from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.
Highlights include a combined rail-and-boat trip along the fjords, hiking the mountains that surround Bergen, hanging out at the UNESCO heritage Hanseatic Harbour
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and hiking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
May - the driest month on average with long daylight hours
Note though, the weather in this city is known to be very wet and changeable, so go with no expectations of great weather and don’t let the rain stop you, whatever you have planned
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds, changing in Amsterdam
Probably won’t need a car for this trip
ACCOMMODATION
My first choice would be to stay in a traditional white clapboard house, so iconic to this part of the world, though a great view of the city and its waterways could trump that. Below is my shortlist of viable contenders, with lovely Scandi design elements and a little outdoor space.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Arrive: Try to arrive in the morning; settle in and collect a few groceries
Walking Tour: This Walking tour of Bergen looks to cover the more authentic aspects of the city, such as what it is like to live there and the issues facing Bergen in this present moment.
Day 2
Hike: Book this guided hike between two of Bergen’s most famous mountains - Floyen and Ulriken.
Dinner: Book at Bryggeloftet for a traditional dining experience, and I’ve been reliably advised that a window seat should be requested.
Day 3
Flåm railway: Combine a cruise along Sognefjord (Norway's longest and deepest fjord) with the famous Flåm Railway and Bergen Railway on this excursion. Alternatively, this private tour takes you biking, RIB riding and a trip on the Flåm railway.
Day 4
Relax
Dinner in the Mountains: Book the Ulriken by Night tour with FjordTours which is a combo tour with a the cable car to the top of Mount Ulriken (the highest of Bergen’s Seven Mountains), and dinner in the restaurant Skyskraperen.
Day 5
Travel home: try to depart in the morning
-
In this city, better to plan that whatever you are doing, you are doing come rain or shine, as rain is very common. For absolute last resort indoor activities:
Permanent indoor Fish Market (where there are several fish restaurants also)
KODE Art, Craft & Design museum - among Scandinavia’s largest art museums
Dinner at Lysverket
Bergenhus Fortress Museum and walk the fortress trail for a look at the history and nature in the area. Visit on special national holidays to watch the dramatic gun salutes.
Bergenhus Bryggeri to try some of the many microbrews available.
FOOD & DRINK - SPECIALITIES & FOOD CUSTOMS
Not known for being a cheese producing nation but apparently in the World Cheese awards in Bergen in 2018, the overall winner was fanaost from the producer Ostegården, just south of Bergen. I’d try and have a taste.
Fiskesuppe is a staple of Norwegian traditional grub - not to try it would be rude.
Raspeballer - boiled potato dumplings. In Bergen, they are often served with Vossa sausage from the neighbouring village of Voss.
Other Active Itineraries
Southern Germany - a 12 night Summer road trip.
A hot summer road trip through Germany’s southern states. Castles, cakes, pretzels, bikes, hikes, lakes and beer all make an appearance. There’s nothing this place doesn’t have.
Itinerary At A Glance
12 night independent touring itinerary for Southern Germany, across the two southern states of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria.
Based on flying into Stuttgart from Manchester, and back in from Munich into Manchester, in July
Highlights include an invigorating walk around the hills of Heidelberg, a leisurely stroll around spa-town Baden-Baden, rest-stop coffee on the Lake Constance lakeside in Lindau, biking in the Black Forest and around Chiemsee Lake, a visit to The Eagles Nest in Berchtesgaden, a tour around the Eisriesenwelt Ice Caves over the border in Austria, Black Forest Gateau in its home in the Black Forest, and daily pretzel indulgence.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Did the place live up to expectations?
I would say this trip exceeded expectations and doesn’t get the attention it deserves.
I think the common belief is that Germany is a land of industry and/or grungy alternativeness; Brits go to Germany for Oktoberfest or a kooky bohemian-alternative city break in Berlin or Munich, but no-one seems to consider it a place to summer so that of course made it even more appealing.
I always like to think I’m choosing ‘off-the-beaten-track’ options and I got it into my head that Germany might make a fantastic summer destination - I imagined floral meadows, rolling hills, dancing waterfalls and outdoor beer gardens - I wasn’t far wrong really, but add in castles, excellent baked goods and some World War II historical sites.
The regions we visited honoured history and tradition, in and amongst the gorgeous rolling green countryside. There is a magnificence about it, with what felt to me like a commitment to aesthetics and beauty. It was clean, welcoming, green, varied and with much to see and do as a tourist.
We absolutely LOVED this trip, and have fallen a little bit in love with Germany as a result.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Logistically, Germany is both very easy to get to from the UK, with only a short flying distance and multiple arrival/departure points, and very easy to move around with an excellent road system - for this reason, the independent touring holiday, spending 3 nights, 4 nights and 5 nights in different locations across the southern states of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria, worked perfectly.
I settled on starting off with a city break in Heidelberg, a university city on the River Neckar with glorious Baroque architecture; moving on to stay in Triberg in the Black Forest, the birthplace of the Black Forest Gateau; finishing up at the biggest lake in the Bavarian Lake District, Lake Chiemsee.
This almost felt like 6 holidays in one owing to the contrasts we experienced throughout the trip - we had 35°C weather and a visit to an ice cave where it was below freezing; we found Freiburg im Bresigau a vibrant and youthful place contrasted with the strong traditional feeling in the Bavarian Lake District; we had all of city, town, village, river, mountain, lake and forest. Some of the tiny memorable details of being in Germany were the colourful floral window boxes decorating most houses - we saw this everywhere - and the pretzels, the freshness and taste of which isn’t well replicated in pretzels you buy in the UK.
The weather is more changeable than you can expect in southern Europe, but it was very hot on at least half of our 12 days, with much opportunity to enjoy outdoor activity as a result and I would say generally hotter than the UK.
Don’t fall into the anglophone assumption that everywhere you go will speak English - they may not, so brush up on some German phrasing to help you through simple activities you know you are going to do regularly.
Would I make another visit?
I would definitely consider another summer holiday in Germany and I have considered a similar touring holiday crisscrossing the French-German-Swiss borders with stops in Freiburg, Colmar/Mulhouse, and Neuchatel. My advice for others would be to choose Freiburg im Breisgau as the base in the Black Forest. This little university city was absolutely buzzing, with delightfully unique little canals running through its streets. It would be an easy location to enjoy both the food and culture of a city and outdoor activities in the surrounding countryside.
FLIGHTS & OTHER TRAVEL MEANS
Fly with Lufthansa from Manchester, into Stuttgart, and out of Munich
We also hired a car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as bikes for parts of the trip
ROUTE & STOPS
Fly Manchester into Stuttgart; drive to Heidelberg for a 3 night stay
Drive from Heidelberg to the Black Forest (Triberg) for a 4 night stay; stop off at Baden-Baden along the way
Drive from The Black Forest to the Bavarian Lake District (Lake Chiemsee) for a 5 night stay; stop off at Lindau along the way
Drive from Lake Chiemsee to Munich; fly Munich to Manchester
ACCOMMODATION
Heidelberg
Hotel Chester on the outskirts of Heidelberg.
While the hotel itself was lovely, and we couldn’t complain about anything really - it was modern, clean, quiet, with good service and a very good breakfast - it was too far out to make the most of the 2.5 days we had in Heidelberg. This was a lesson learnt for me.
Black Forest
Inselklause in Triberg.
Hotel and service was lovely, but it was the wrong choice of location for us - it wasn’t central to anything we wanted to visit so everything became quite a drive away.
Lake Chiemsee
Hotel Bonnschloessl in Bernau am Chiemsee.
Traditional and classic - nothing to write home about for us, but clean, tidy and friendly.
SCHEDULE
Heidelberg - Day 1 to 4
Visited Schwetzingen Palace (Schloss Schwetzingen) on the outskirts of Heidelberg. Glorious. The gardens in particular make an ideal place for a summer wander
Walked the Philosophenweg (Philosophers Way) on the western banks of the River Necker and accessible starting from the city centre. It is a nice physical challenge and offers excellent views of the city as well as interesting sites like the Heidelberg Thingstatte which is a Nazi-built open-air amphitheatre where thousands of people could gather for propaganda presentations. Eerie.
Visited the Technik Museum Speyer - an automotive and aviation museum on the outskirts of Heidelberg
Lunched at Strohauers Cafe in central Heidelberg. Classic and authentic with an outdoor seating area perfect for people-watching.
Had top-class coffee and cake at Bäckerei Utz on our day trip out to Schloss Schwetzingen.
Drive between Heidelberg & Black Forest - Day 4
About 180km, 2hr 15 mins driving
On our way through to the Black Forest, we stopped at Baden-Baden, a glorious little spa town at the start of the Black Forest for a little coffee and a peruse around this pretty affluent town.
Black Forest - Day 4 to 8
Walked the route alongside and over the Triberg Waterfalls - the highest in Germany
Had Black Forest Gateau at Cafe Schaefer in Triberg
The hotel we were staying in, Inselklause, also had a lovely restaurant and a river running just behind it meaning some of the dishes included caught-that-day river trout from their own back yard. Really good
Had absolutely gorgeous chocolate and baking confections at Gmeiner on our day trip out to Freiburg im Breisgau
Took a day trip out to Freiburg im Breisgau - a highlight of our trip. The city is funky, outdoorsy and with the most unusual little miniature canal system running through its streets. We actually parked at the top of the mountain outside Freiburg to take a trip on the Schauinslandbahn - a cable car connecting an upper station near the summit of the Schauinsland mountain with a lower station in the municipality of Horben, near the city of Freiburg im Breisgau. Then it was a short and simple tram ride from the lower station into the city and it was worth it for the peaceful views of the Black Forest as we made the descent
Drive between Black Forest & Bavarian Lake District - Day 8
About 420km, 4hr 45 mins driving
On our way through to Lake Chiemsee and to break up the long 5 hour drive, we stopped at Lindau on the banks of Lake Constance (Bodensee in German) and wow - this little lakeside town is just gorgeous - all little streets, pastel-coloured buildings, floral window boxes and loads of outdoor cafes and cobbled squares. It is actually a teeny island in the lake itself, reached by crossing a small bridge and it is definitely worth a stop here. Especially lovely are the food establishments that face out onto the lake itself.
Lake Chiemsee - Day 8 to 12
Dined at Schlosswirtschaft at Wildenwart. A lovely, traditional countryside restaurant near Chiemsee - authentic German food in a gorgeous rural setting.
Had delicious pretzels from Cafe Obermaier in Bernau
E-biked all around the Lake Chiemsee. A full-day 58km loop with scenic stops - a great way to explore the area.
Day trip out to Eisriesenwelt Ice Caves (Austria). I can’t do justice to just how otherworldly and spectacular these are, and it’s an uncanny experience to be in 25°C on the outside, dropping almost immediately to below freezing once you enter, even in July. Once inside, its a rather spellbinding vision of nature’s own ‘ice sculpture’ with huge mystical caverns of icicles, ice falls and ice shelves
Herrenchiemsee. Took the ferry to the island to visit King Ludwig’s residence - regal, whimsical, and beautifully set on the lake.
Took a day trip out to The Eagles Nest (Kehlsteinhaus in German) in Berchtesgaden. This site was a symbol of power of the Nazi regime; decisions were made at the Eagle’s Nest and I believe it was a retreat option for Nazi leadership where they could hole up as it was very hard to access. The building stands perched over a sheer rock wall and to facilitate construction, a road was cut into the mountain through previously impassable terrain. We really enjoyed the visit, and there is a challenging scramble around the mountain at the top. We felt the controversial historical significance was handled humbly and with due remorse and chagrin for what it represents. To quote their website:
“Today however it still offers a magnificent and unique view of the surrounding countryside and also the opportunity to remember and learn about the inhuman dictatorship it served.”
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
I would sum up the best of German food culture as Cakes, Bakes and Beer. It is no lie to say that we had pretzels every single day of our trip, and I don’t think we had a bad one. They are sold in every bakery, in every town and village, and I have never tasted any better. Cakes generally were also some of the best I have ever had - easily rivalling more famous baking destinations like Paris or Copenhagen. Beer choices and quality were also superlative. These are the tastes of Germany for us, and it is well worth going to experience them.
Generally speaking, while we had good food during our trip, hot meals served for lunch or dinner tended towards hearty traditional grub made up of a potato option, some meat, and a sauce. Not necessarily the wildest or most inspiring of options, but tasty, filling and comforting nonetheless
Lessons Learnt for me
Prioritise location when choosing accommodation. On this trip, staying too far from the places we wanted to visit meant spending excessive time driving each day. I’ve realised that for city breaks especially, being within walking distance of the centre adds huge value — it allows for spontaneous outings, easy access to meals, and a more relaxed, immersive experience.
Touring with stops of 3–5 nights work well for an active pace; going longer or adding more stops can feel too hectic. Next time, I’ll plan fewer moves and choose accommodation that allows us to stay put for a few days — ideally within walking distance of key sights or no more than a 20-minute drive. That way, we can park the car and enjoy a more relaxed rhythm, with time to explore spontaneously and soak up the local atmosphere.
Other July itineraries
An itinerary for Santa Fe - atomic bomb history, mountain biking and art
10 nights in New Mexico combining art, activity and history.
Itinerary At A Glance
10 night independent itinerary for New Mexico in the central Southwest of the USA
Based on travelling Leeds to Santa Fe with a hop in Amsterdam and Atlanta. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include visiting the Manhattan Project Trinity Site where the atomic bomb was tested and the town where it was developed, hikes around the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, mountain biking around Santa Fe and ancient glyphs and rock art from around 1500AD
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Like so much of my travel planning, this started with an offhand comment from a friend - she said New Mexico was the most surprisingly beautiful stop on her west-to-east US road trip. That was enough to spark my interest.
Santa Fe stood out quickly. Its history is layered: once home to Indigenous Pueblo peoples, later ruled by the Spanish Crown, then part of Mexico, and eventually ceded to the USA after the Mexican-American War. That mix of influences shows up everywhere — in the food, the architecture, the art — and gives the city a distinct cultural flavour.
Today, Santa Fe is the highest capital city in the US, known for its celebration of Pueblo heritage, its thriving arts scene, and its access to outdoor pursuits. Add to that New Mexico’s links to atomic history and space exploration — both of interest to my boyfriend — and it felt like a destination with real depth.
WHEN
October
It would work equally well for Spring - April - both with pleasantly warm days and cool evenings.
Importantly, the Trinity Site (where the first atomic bomb was detonated) is only open for visitors on the first Saturday of April or October; this will be a crucial part of our trip and so I would design the itinerary around being able to visit this.
Conversely to the UK weather, summer is the wettest season as well as being swelteringly hot and humid. I would avoid visiting at this time of year
TRAVEL MEANS
With KLM, Leeds LBA to Albuquerque ABQ, with stops in Amsterdam and Atlanta
Car hire will be essential for the duration of the trip in Santa Fe
ACCOMMODATION
Contemporary, minimal & artful pied-a-terre
Beautifully modern casita minutes from downtown
Clean and modern casita outside of downtown
Gorgeous traditional cottage in central Santa Fe with lovely rock garden
Sauna, hot tub and spectacular views in this traditional casita
Modern bungalow just outside the centre
Stunning cottage with gorgeous gardens
ACTIVITIES
Visit the Trinity Site
The whole reason for the trip, the Trinity Site (where the first atomic bomb was detonated) is open for visitors just twice a year - on the first Saturday of April or October. There is a coach tour departing from the Space Hall of Fame, which includes transport, snacks and entry to the museum afterwards.
Visit Los Alamos
Take a day trip to Los Alamos to learn more about its important role in the development of the atomic bomb with this self-guided walking tour of the town and visit the Bradbury Science Museum, with its atomic bomb replicas and interactive exhibits of the World War II Manhattan Project (40 mins drive each way from Santa Fe)
Hike Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument
About 40 miles south of Santa Fe, lies the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument* where visitors can hike the site to take in the unusual rock formations.
*potential misinterpretation alert: in the USA, ‘National Monuments’ are nationally significant lands and waters set aside for permanent protection which is unlike how we use the word ‘monument’ in the UK, which usually refers to a building or structure, that is of historical importance or interest.
Book to see a performance at the Santa Fe Opera house
A unique outdoor high-calibre performance venue with views of the Sangre de Cristo foothills and the Jemez Mountains is only open during the summer, and the programming is focused on the art of opera
Book a ride on the Cumbres & Toltec railway
A narrow-gauge heritage railroad that operates on 64 miles of track between Antonito, Colorado, and Chama, New Mexico, through some of the most spectacular scenery in the Rocky Mountain West
WHERE TO WANDER
There are quite a few mountain biking options close by to Santa Fe - info here and here - we will probably spend at least 3 days biking
Contemplate some contemporary art at SITE Santa Fe
Visit the only museum in the world focused on wax - It’s a broader medium than you might think - from the use of ancient beeswax to the modern crayon, wax can be scuplted, painted with, drawn with and even used as a surface to receive transfer from photography. The Museum of Encaustic Art in Cerillos, just outside of Santa Fe, has the largest, most extensive, and best represented encaustic art collection in America.
Enjoy a spa day at the thermal springs of Ojo Santa Fe Spa
Stroll along Canyon Road in downtown Santa Fe - 1.5 kilometers long, the strip packs in over 100 galleries and boutiques. It’s considered to be one of the most concentrated street of art galleries in the world.
Visit La Cieneguilla Petroglyph site for a 2 mile hike to see ancient glyphs of birds, animals, fish, insects, plants, and humans as well as geometric and abstract designs, likely created by the between 1200 and 1600 AD
Take a day trip to Taos via the High Road and the Low Road - round trip of approximately 165 miles
Other North America Itineraries
Warsaw - an off-season city break
My plan for 3 wintry nights in Warsaw.
Itinerary At A Glance
3 night independent itinerary for Warsaw in central Poland
Based on flying in and out of Warsaw from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.
Highlights include touring the city in a Communist-era Fiat 126p, experiencing the annual Royal Garden of Light exhibition at the ‘Polish Versailles’ Wilanow Palace, enjoying Warsaw’s new and revived baking culture, and some cross-country skiing in one of the parks outside of Warsaw.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and active pursuits, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Warsaw came onto my radar through a mix of unexpected recommendations. Paul Hollywood mentioned it in one of his baking books as a great spot for baked goods — oddly specific, but it stuck. Then I read a Telegraph piece about Warsaw’s emerging food scene, and Lonely Planet flagged Białowieża Forest as a winter destination, with Warsaw as the nearest airport. Add Poland’s reputation for good value, and the idea started to take shape.
I did some digging and found plenty to justify a city break: interesting eateries in a cuisine I barely knew, museums and tours covering Poland’s layered history - from royalty to Communism to Judaism - plus a modern cultural scene, all at reasonable prices. It’s also less obvious than Kraków for British travellers, which made it feel like a more original choice.
Annual Royal Garden of Light exhibition at Royal Palace at Wilanów
WHEN
January
January is, on average, the coldest month with harshly cold weather and the highest likelihood for snow, so I have made the itinerary with this in mind, focusing on indoor activities and those which can be done come rain, snow or shine.
This is an unusual time to visit but will see the city at its winteriest, see the Royal Garden of Light in the winter dark and better experience the warming effects of Polish vodka.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds Bradford to Warsaw, changing in Amsterdam
ACCOMMODATION
H15 Boutique Hotel, in the Suite or Prestige Suite - this kind of quality is usually outside of my budget but not in Poland!
Smack-bang in Warsaw’s Old Town, a beautiful and very highly recommended duplex in a Gothic building
Petite and perfectly-formed little apartment for 2
Luxe and highly-modern apartment in the business district
SCHEDULE
Polin Museum
Day 1
Try to arrive in the morning
Visit the Polin Museum - documents the history of Polish Jews
Do a food tour with Warsaw Behind the Scenes - travelling in a vintage minibus
Day 2
Attend a cookery class with Polish Your Cooking - The classes take place every Wednesday and Saturday at 10.30 am and every Friday at 6.00 pm
Get to know more about the history of Warsaw and what it was like under the communist regime with a self-drive tour in a Communist-era Fiat 126p (being an all-round car enthusiast, my boyfriend would love this) with WPT1313 Tours
Have dinner at Hala Koszyki Market - Located in an Art Nouveau market hall, it combines a day food market, a night street food market, a and event space all under one roof. Supposedly a hit with locals and is open every weekend from 8am until 1am.
See some live music at the bar underneath the National Opera of Poland’s Grand Theatre
A winter dawn view from the Vistula River
Day 3
Try cross-country skiing in Powsin Park. You can rent equipment in many places. Read more here.
Visit the Royal Palace at Wilanów, in particular, to see the Royal Garden of Lights at night
Book a table for dinner at Rozbrat20, as recommended by the Michelin Travel Guide
Day 4
For breakfast, get real bread from Piwonski Bakery at the Restaurant Femina , Al. Jana Pawła II 38 (Opening hours Mon - Fri: 7.00 - 20.00, Sat: 7.30-15.00)
Wander around Śródmieście - both Old and New Town
Leave in the afternoon
ABOUT WARSAW’S NEIGHBOURHOODS
Warsaw is a rough oval, bissected north-to-south by the Vistula river. The main neighbourhoods are as follows:
Śródmieście - beside the Vistula River, the heart and centre, both Old and New Town. The most central district in Warsaw, Śródmieście is the financial, commercial and cultural centre of the city and boasts the tallest buildings, the most important museums, galleries, restaurants, and theatres. On the west bank of the river runs the Vistulan Boulevard, a contemporary promenade dotted with waterside bars and cafes - not to be missed for a stroll and a bite to eat as you people-watch
Wola - highly urbanized commercial area with lots of skyscrapers. It used to be an industrial district and today is where many multinational corporations have decided to base their offices - as such, many residential buildings have popped up alongside in the form of modern flats. Highly accessible place to stay as an alternative to Śródmieście
Mokotów, Żoliborz and Ochota - all three of these are green, tranquil, and quite fashionable residential districts in easy reach of the city centre, some of the most desirable places to actually live in the city. Not loads and loads to see for a tourist, but one option is Królikarnia in the Mokotów district - a palace and a park for a stroll (and a picnic or icecream in warm weather)
Praga Północ (Praga North) and Praga Południe (Praga South) - Located on the east bank of the Vistula River, the Praga district is the only location in Warsaw where the buildings have remained untouched by the war. This part of the city still has a very bad reputation among many Varsovians because in the past this was a very dangerous and poor area of the city (its nickname was The Bermuda Triangle). Nowadays, especially on its southern side, this district is becoming the home to its alternative, avantgarde culture, a trendy hotspot in Warsaw, with art galleries, artists’ ateliers, cool restaurants, and pubs. However charming and vibrant, this is still the district with the highest unemployment rate and the poorest population, so at least a little care should be taken.
Wilanów - A district far outside the centre of Warsaw, it is famous for its baroque palace, the Wilanów Palace, which is sometimes referred to as the Polish Versailles. Other than this, it features large, wild, underdeveloped areas which allows for outdoor activities such as biking, golf, and kayaking along the Vistula.
Other Winter Itineraries
Hanover and The Harz Mountains - a Spring travel plan for mountain biking and city break
Travelling in spring, departing from Leeds, my imagined itinerary for 7 nights of exploring in Lower Saxony.
Why Hanover & The Harz Mountains?
The start of my research into The Harz Mountains was inspired by this article from Culture Trip; I did a bit more digging and found what looks to be a perfect region to explore on a bike.
The main focus of the trip will be the Harz Mountains and I’ve plumbed for one of the most obvious towns as the base - Quedlinburg. This little city is a UNESCO World Heritage site owing to it being the burial site for the first German King, and it was Germany's first capital and an important city during the Middle Ages. Now, it is a well-known tourist destination and is usually the favoured spot for a visit to the region. Looks to be a great base for a bit of biking around the Harz, while also offering up options for historical activities and dining.
Hanover (spelt Hannover in German) is very simply the nearest city and the most obvious airport - so I decided to make it a part of the itinerary. Much of their visitor marketing is geared towards the city as a business destination but reading between the lines, I found more than enough history, culture and uniquely Hanoverian experiences for us to enjoy a few days getting to know this city. The Aldstadt (German for ‘Old Town’) is full of those gorgeous half-timbered structures and it is home to the Eilenriede, Europe's largest municipal forest. It is very bike friendly, both in the city and its surrounds, with hundreds of kilometres of signposted routes and city bike lanes. Its reputation as a business hub also makes it incredibly easily logistics-wise, so superb for the independent traveller. Most unique of all is that the city has an international firework competition each year………weird, and cool. In short, many many reasons for a visit.
I have visited Germany once before - Bavaria and Baden-Wuttemburg - and ever since, I’ve been telling anyone who will listen that the best baked goods are in Germany - not in France, not in Italy - Germany. So add superb cake and daily pretzels to the list of attractions.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 day independent itinerary; 4 nights in Quedlinburg, then 3 nights in Hanover, travelling in Spring - April, May or June.
Based on flying in and out of Hanover from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.
Highlights include a two-wheeled day trip to Marienburg Castle, international firework competition displays, enjoying modern German fine dining in a 2-star Michelin restaurant, understanding more of Germany’s medieval history, and biking around the Harz Mountains.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.
WHEN
Spring - April or May
The weather is very similar to the UK so highly unpredictable, though I’m of the opinion that Spring is the absolute best time to visit Northern Europe. That being said, I’ll still expect a variety of warm, cool, wet and generally changeable weather for this trip.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds into Hanover, with a 2hr change in Amsterdam
I will also hire a car for the entirety of the trip, and a mountain bike for the stay in the Harz Mountains
Note the following:
the city centre is an environmental zone - access is only permitted for cars with a green sticker
there are over 360 kilometres of cycle paths alongside the city’s roads and 170 kilometres of cycle paths through Hannover's green spaces
you can take your bike on the tram or S-Bahn (Stadtbahn), sometimes at no extra charge
ACCOMMODATION
Quedlinburg (in order of preference):
This delightful little Airbnb feels very inkeeping with the town and its vibe
Similarly adorable is this little 2 bed apartment
Hanover (in order of preference):
GORGEOUS and atmospherically designed apartment smack bang in the centre
A very funky and modern design hotel, Me and All - I’d go superior double for the extra space and the view
Arthotel ANA Prestige - I’d plum for a Junior Suite
Funky and quintessentially German loft apartment right up in the eaves
SCHEDULE
Quedlinburg - Day 1 to 4
Take a guided mountain bike tour in the Solling-Vogler Nature Park & Mountain Biking network
Visit Volksbank Arena Harz mountain bike trail centre with a choice of 74 routes
Visit Bikepark Bodetal
Take any of these off-road routes to take in the scenery around the Bodetal
Eat some traditional German ‘pub-grub’ washed down with German beer at Brauerei Ludde Quedlinburg
Get some coffee and cake at Cafe Zum Roland
Hanover - Day 5 to 7
Visit the Sprengel Museum, to see their collection of 20th century cubist art
Book into a brewery tour at Herrenhauser Brauerei
Attend Velo City Night - at Velo City Night, thousands of cyclists conquer the streets of Hannover, forming a huge collective tour of the city. Similarly, at Skate by Night, around 4,000 inline skaters cruise around the city. Both initiatives are designed to promote alternative travel options and encourage the creation of the infrastructure needed
Attend one of the international firework competition displays at the Herrenhausen Gardens
Day trip to Marienburg Castle - 1 hr 30 m each way on a bike. Perhaps book for one of the guided tours or simply stop in at the restaurant
Hanover has a 2-star Michelin restaurant, Jante. I’d book in here for a treat
Stop by Lindenblatt Burger-Bar. All the ingredients are from the Hannover region, with the steaks coming from ecologically reared animals.
Stadtmauer Hannover - modern restaurant with a view of the Leine river
Have breakfast at Fraulein Schlicht (closed Monday & Tuesday)
ABOUT HANOVER’S NEIGHBOURHOODS
Aldstadt (Old Town) - the central historic hub. This is where all the major sites can be found and the half-timbered architecture
List - the cultured and refined residential district. To the northeast of the Aldstadt, it is just north of the Eilenreide Forest also, so very well located for both culture and the urban outdoors
Calenburger Neustadt - the student district. Bound on all sides by water - River Leine to the east and north, River Ihme to the west
Südstadt - the up-and-coming district for young professionals. This neighbourhood is quiet, residential and is considered a bit of a haven for outdoor activity (with both the Eilenreide and Machensee Lake in close proximity) and is home to a lot of design-focused modern boutiques and a variety of modern restaurants. It is also home to the Sprengel Art Gallery.
Linden - the edgy, funky alternative district. It only became part of Hanover in 1920 and often considers itself having a separate identity
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
In Lower Saxony (German: Niedersachsen), the cuisine is features many of the ingredients common to Northern Europe - buckwheat, apples, butter, potatoes, cherries, pears, plums, asparagus, cabbage, dill, beer and rye. Some of the more unusual specialities include:
Apple Soup made from cooked apples and raisins and seasoned with a generous helping of cinnamon and vanilla
During the spring season, asparagus served with schnitzel, potatoes and brown butter
Welf Pudding is a traditional dessert from Hanover, which is a two-layer posset-like concoction made from egg, milk, vanilla, sugar, cornstarch, dry white wine and lemon
Pinkel is Lower Saxony's national sausage
Sour milk cheeses such as Harzer, Gelbkäse and Bauernhandkäse
They also love Arme Ritter (French Toast) and Buckwheat pancakes
Other 7-10 night Itineraries
Turin and Monferrato, Piedmont - a twin-centre autumnal trip
An autumn itinerary with Arbarth factory tours, martinis, and day rides in the Monferrato hills.
Itinerary At A Glance
Twin-centre independent itinerary for Piedmont; 3 nights in Turin, 7 nights in the Monferrato Hills in Alessandria province.
Based on travelling in late summer or early autumn, flying in and out of Milan from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.
Highlights include a tour of the Abarth Factory, a cocktail experience at the home of Martini, indulging in the famed white truffle, staying in a high-spec design accommodation, day bike tours around the rolling green hills of the Monferrato, and an exciting gourmet experience at one of the regions many Michelin-starred restaurants.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.
Why here?
Piedmont (Piemonte in Italian) is in the north-western corner of Italy and both the Italian and French name for the region roughly translates as ‘foot of the mountain’ which is very apt, as the region’s physical background and border along its western edge, is the Alps.
Piedmont is known for its lakes, hills, rivers and its food: white truffle, gianduja, Gavi, Barolo, and Asti. It’s also well set up for independent cycling, with mapped routes for everything from road touring to proper downhill trail centres.
This itinerary started with a visit to the Fiat Lingotto Factory and the Abarth Works Museum in Turin (my boyfriend’s a serious petrolhead). Turin itself has a reputation for royalty, industry, and grand café culture. It was the first capital of unified Italy, home to the kings of Savoy, Fiat, and Juventus. We’re expecting a quietly confident city with boulevards, motorsport, and a splash of Martini — vermouth was invented here.
Rather than heading to the lakes, we’re staying rural in the Monferrato Hills near Casale Monferrato. The accommodation felt fresher, better value, and less over-touristed. This part of the trip is for relaxing and cycling through vineyard country.
WHEN
Early Autumn - either September or October.
A little unexpectedly, October is actually high season in the Monferrato-Langhe due to the harvest and the importance of gastrotourism to this area.
It is a relatively wet place all year round so I’ll be expecting mixed weather. Averages indicate that it is at its driest in the Winter.
TRAVEL MEANS
Flights into Turin are possible, though I found them much more expensive than flights into Milan, which is just a 2hr drive from Turin. Flight options are either of the below:
KLM, from Leeds into Milan, with a 2hr change in Amsterdam
Easyjet, from Manchester direct into Milan
I will hire a car for the entirety of the trip, and a bike for the second part of the trip in the Monferrato Hills
ACCOMMODATION
Turin
I found lots and lots of ‘oldy worldy’ accommodation in Turin, which isn’t really my bag, but something else I noticed in abundant availability were modern conversions of big old industrial spaces. These would be my pick in priority order:
Edit Lofts - this is a former Fiat factory made into funky loft apartments. They also have a restaurant on site recommended by the Michelin Green Travel Guide. Only downside is that it is a 40 minute walk from the centre
Funky loft space smack-bang in the centre
Modern, minimalist and space-maximising design loft a little outside of the historical centre
Monferrato Hills in Alessandria/Asti province
I found many many beautiful places to stay in this whole region, but once I found this Glass House in Terruggia, about 6km from the small historical river city of Casale Monferrato, I knew we had to stay here. The rest of my trip is designed around staying here
SCHEDULE
Turin - Day 1 to 3
Take a guided tour of the Abarth Factory Workshop
Visit the FCA Heritage Hub which opens soon in the Fiat Mirafiori industrial complex, with an exhibition of Fiat, Abarth, Lancia and Alfa Romeo
Go have a look around La Venaria Reale, one of Turin’s famous Savoy residences and one that stood out to me
Visit Castello di Rivoli contemporary art museum
Have coffee and cake at Caffe Mulassano - a grand and traditional cafe
Do as the locals do, with a pre-dinner aperitif and snack at La Drogheria in Piazza Vittorio square.
I’d book into any one of these restaurant recommendations from the Michelin Green Travel Guide
Take an an aperitivo ‘crawl’ in San Salvario - Enò | Via Galliari, 1, Affine | Via Belfiore, 16, Gorilla | Via Galliari, 20, Crumb | Piazza Madama Cristina, 2, Eria San Salvario | Via S. Pio V, 11, La Cuite | Via Baretti, 11
Take a 40 min drive outside the centre to get to know more about vermouth and Martini on this Ultimate Martini Experience at Casa Martini, the historical home of the well-known alcohol producer
Day 4 - driving between Turin & Casale Monferrato
About 75-100km (depending on the route), 1 hr 15 mins driving
Monferrato hills in Alessandria/Asti province - Day 4 to 10
The majority of our time will be spent on the bike, and the following routes and destinations strike my fancy:
Take this circular route from Casale Monferrato to Valenza, the famed City of Gold, which boasts the highest concentration of gold and artisan jewellery businesses in the country - I think we’ll pay a visit to the Museo del Gioello (jewellery museum) while we’re there too (65km route - an all day excursion. Start point is 25 min bike ride from Terruggia)
Take this route or this route for a tour around the Infernot Hills and a stop in Treville for a view of the Alps. (25km route - about 2-3 hours. Start point is 25 min bike ride from Terruggia)
Take this short multi-looping route in and around San Salvatore Monferrato (25km route - about 2-3 hours. Start point is 1 hour bike ride from Terruggia)
Cycle this loop in the lands of San Giovanni Bosco (62km route - an all day excursion)
Drive or bike out to Asti (4 hr bike ride round trip from Terruggia) just for a little wander around the city and a sip of the famous sparkling wine Asti Spumante
Cycle out to the walled medieval miniature city of Moncalvo (2.5 hr round trip from Terruggia) to walk the ramparts, visit the Marc Chagall paintings held in the Civic Museum of Moncalvo and have dinner at sunset
Drive or bike out to Montegrosso d’Asti (4-5 hour round trip from Terruggia)
For a wide variety of cycle routes across the whole of Piedmont that can be downloaded as GPX files, I found PiemontEscape to be superb
Book for dinner at Il Cavallo Scosso in Asti - a young and modern restaurant as recommended by the Michelin Green Guide
Faletto 1881 - a modern restaurant in a farmhouse-come-hotel-and-venue just outside of Casale Monferrato
Accademia Ristorante in Casale Monferrato - local and seasonal Piemontese cuisine, as recommended by the Michelin Green Guide
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Piedmont is extraordinarily rich in food and drink both grown and invented here:
drinks wise, there is Barolo and Gavi wine, bicerin (a coffee mixed with cream), and vermouth.
pasta-wise, there is agnolotti, plin and tajerin.
cheese-wise, there is stracchino (creamy, soft white cheese), toma (a light, semi-hard cow’s milk cheese), robiola (delicate and sweet, often preserved in oil), raschera (made with a combination of cow, goat and sheep’s milk coming from the high pastures of the Monferrato).
other food items include gianduja (chocolate-hazelnut spread), truffles (most famous ones come from Alba), bagna cauda, bonèt pudding, baci di dama, Savoy biscuits, grissini breadsticks and panna cotta.
Traditionally, aperitivo is meant to whet the appetite before dinner and is accompanied by a variety of appetizers (stuzzichini) such as cold cuts, cheeses, salads, olives, bite-sized pizzas and other savouries. However, such is the popularity of this time honoured tradition, a new concept of apericena has been introduced in recent years that closes the gap between aperitivo and dinner and acts as a less formal alternative to eating out in a restaurant. Now, sumptuous buffet tables in bars and cafes all over Turin groan with a mix of the traditional bites plus pasta and rice dishes, grilled and freshly chopped vegetables, couscous and quinoa salads, cakes and more. The buffets usually start at around 7pm and can go on until 9pm/10pm
Tastes of Italy
Tallinn, Estonia - a long wintry break
My journal and itinerary of a winter city break in the Baltics, departing from Manchester. Where we ate, what we saw and how we enjoyed the young-meets-old cosy capital of Estonia.
Itinerary at a glance
5 day itinerary for Tallinn, based on flying in and out of Manchester, in November or December
Highlights include outdoor animal spotting in the snow-covered forest, strolling around Tallinn’s historic locations, eating very very well in Tallinn’s modern restaurants and cafes, and sauna lounging at the apartment.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to expectations?
I’m not at all sure Estonia has any expectations.
What we found was a city that is both highly modern, youthful and vibrant, as well as ancient. There was a calm confidence and a future-looking atmosphere to the whole place yet with an honour and respect for the past, which includes medieval architecture, strong maritime and seafaring industry, and Soviet occupation.
The food, the vibe, even the harsh harsh weather all made for a unique and memorable city break for us. Since we have come home, we have regularly reminisced about the food spots and the sauna in the apartment. I imagine many future city breaks, especially winter ones, will be compared with this one. An ideal and original spot for a couple’s winter city break.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
The city itself is quite small, absolutely perfect to feel like we really ‘did’ it in a long weekend and could access virtually everywhere on foot. This city also does winter very very well. Cold and dark, yes, but cosy with it. Open fires, twinkling lights and basement locales make for welcoming, easeful and intimate places to cuddle up with hot drinks and excellent food.
Stayed for one day too long – 3 full days, 4 nights would have been enough to get a good flavour of the city for the first time. Staying one mile from the city centre in Kalamaja is perfect.
Would I make another visit?
We’d like to return in summer as I’m sure the city has an entirely different vibe.
WHEN
Late November, early December
We had freezing cold, short days, frequently -10C. Fairly strong, biting winds.
TRAVEL MEANS
Lufthansa, from Manchester, changing in Frankfurt
Even though we had to change, the flight times were so good that the journey didn’t end up feeling all that arduous. The airport in Tallinn is very close to the city centre and we took a very easy train ride there and back. Note that changing in Frankfurt is also a breeze - genuinely my favourite airport in Europe to transit through.
Throughout the city, we relied on walking and a little of the tram.
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed in this Airbnb, entitled ‘ARTDEPOO in Kalamaja’
This place was incredible - perfectly located on the edge of town in a trendy area, luxury and modern, extremely well suited for a couple, and with its’ own sauna and fireplace, both of which were extremely welcome for a winter trip. Highly highly recommended.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Travel, settle in
Day 2
Full day Moose-watching tour with Eleri Lopp-Valdma, info@estonianwildlifetours.com. This was essentially the highlight of our trip - not the reason we went to Estonia, but one of the best memories from our stay. Eleri is an experienced wildlife guide and tracker, collected us (very early in the morning!) from our apartment in Tallinn and took us out to the woods outside the city to track moose. We didn't end up seeing any, but the day was still superb (this activity was booked in advance).
Day 3
Explore Tallinn Old Town
Dinner at Uulits - about 5 minutes’ walk from the flat. Burgers are their thing and hands down the best burgers we have ever had. Perhaps most innovative was that the chips were served first as a starter.
Day 4
Wander around Telliskivi, a restored industrial quarter now filled with independent shops and outlets. Just drank coffee, soaked up the vibe, perused the little shops and admired the street art.
Coffee and cake at Faehlmanni Kohvik in Kadriog, on the other side of town. This was in a lovely residential district and we just stumbled onto it and this felt like a properly authentic Estonian experience, far from the usual tourist trail. The place was abuzz with friend groups of all ages and the cake and service were excellent.
Dinner at Ülo - about 10 minutes’ walk from the flat. This place described itself as a ‘vegetarian restaurant that offers some meat options’......this was confusing at first.............but as it turns out, it’s the most genius idea! Mostly plants, but a smattering of meat which essentially turns the traditional idea of restaurant dining upside down by prioritising veg, and I think it’s the future. It was also absolutely delicious.
Day 5
Coffee and cake at Café Levier, and oooooohhh my. Seriously good cakes, bakes and patisserie to rival what you would expect in a high-end patisserie in Paris, but with a fabulous Nordic theme – it’s on Vana-Kalamaja 21 round the corner from the flat.
Seaplane Harbour Lennusadam, a very new and modern museum about Tallinn’s maritime history. My boyfriend was in heaven.
Dinner at Balti Jaama Turg - a market which is very close to the station and about 10 mins walk from the flat. It’s one of those restored market halls where they have introduced funky and new concepts like street food vendors and pop-up events, really good.
NEIGHBOURHOODS AND WHERE TO WANDER
Vanalinn (Estonian for "Old Town") – the historic centre
One of Tallinn’s main claims to fame is that it is one of the best preserved medieval cities in all of Europe. The buildings, streets and outer walls transport you to a fairytale past, and hidden walkways, crooked and historic houses, small alleys, courtyards, and winding side streets all make for a lovely meandering exploration.
My impression was that alongside the evident history, Vanalinn felt achingly cool and independent.
Sit down for something to eat, away from the main streets and squares. The city is small enough that you should not fear getting lost at all, so seek out the smaller streets away from the very main ones that hide many good places for a bite to eat. Estonian’s also do cosy as well as the Danes, and for a winter pitstop, I’m sure you will happen on any number of cafes that welcome you in from the cold with twinkly fairy lights, open fires and warm treats.
Kalamaja – the coolest area with a renovated-industrial vibe
Kalamaja consists of two sides: the industrial heritage left behind by the 20th century which has been repurposed, and quaint wooden housing which used to be for the workers. Today many young families have made this area their home, so walking around Kalamaja gives you a good look at what is some of the most desirable housing in Tallinn.
Our accommodation was here, and it is so well located - about 15 minutes’ walk into the Old Town.
Kadriorg - the greenest and grandest area
In Kadriorg, you will find Peter the Great's gorgeous summer palace, that is now Kadriorg Art Museum, and Kadriorg Palace, with its surrounding park which is the biggest green open space in Tallinn.
The rest of this area is high-end residential. Unless you have a free day to just wander about (as we did), or you specifically want to see the above museum or park, I wouldn’t necessary recommend making a specific detour to this part of town - I just don’t think there is enough here for visitors to make a special trip.
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Traditional smoke sauna experience with Rangi Saun. Email, tere@estoniansaunas.com (this activity must be booked in advance).
Hotel Viru KGB Spy museum tour – Tallinn was quite the spy hub during the Soviet Era, due to it’s strategic location right next to Russia and also close to Europe.
Free walking tours Show up in front of the Tallinn Tourist Information at Niguliste 2, Tours depart all year round every day at 12:00.
Chocolate-making workshop with Kalev (just outside Old Town in Sadama) Information and registration from Sweets Mastery - rotermann@kalev.eu
Leif have a beer and food pairing menu — including suggestions on what beers to pair with dessert. Uus 31, Tallinn 10111, open Monday – Sunday 12pm to 11pm
Umami (outside of Tallinn city centre in Mustamae) - inside an old house on the edge of a park in the Mustamae district and with its mid-century furniture and local artists’ paintings on the wall, Umami apparently has cool, open, family-friendly vibe which supposedly makes it feel more like you’re going to someone’s for dinner than out to a restaurant.
Other Winter Itineraries
Andalusia by Wheel
Travelling in winter, journal and itinerary of our 7 night stay in Andalusia - starting with a Seville city break followed by biking around Vejer de la Frontera in Cadiz province.
Andalusia by Wheel
Exploring Seville and Vejer by bike and cuisine - off the main tourist track, in the hush of late winter when the crowds crowds fade to a murmur and orange blossom scents the air.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 day independent itinerary for Andalusia, 3 nights in Seville and 4 nights in Vejer de la Frontera
Based on flying from Leeds into Malaga, in March
Highlights include authentic tapas walking tour and live flamenco show in a very small theatre, meandering through the tiny lanes of Seville’s barrios, hiring scooters for an independent scoot around the city, and e-biking around Cadiz province.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to expectations?
Yes, yes, yes and yes.
Seville is probably on the hitlist of many a traveller and now that I have been, I’d say it deserves such a coveting. Probably the most architecturally beautiful and sensorially-stimulating city I have ever been to - the buildings were a visual delight, it smelled of orange blossom and it is literally filled with the lingering sounds of flamenco guitar.
We found history and culture aplenty, with marvellous food (as long as you stay away from the tourist spots) and great drink.
Vejer de la Frontera is one of the white hilltop towns (Pueblos Blancos in Spanish) of the Serranía de Ronda region. The most famous of these towns is Ronda, but there are many to choose from and I chose Vejer for it being one of the slightly lesser-known ones while still being one of the more sizeable and visitor-orientated. We found it to be beautiful, welcoming, and an ideal base for e-biking its surrounds. The biggest surprise was how verdant the area around Vejer was; we expected arid and instead was rewarded with scenes not dissimilar to the green and rolling hills of the Yorkshire Dales so it is a surprise that this isn’t a more known cycling destination. It’s an ideal location for being on two wheels. My boyfriend stated that Vejer was the best place we have ever been cycling – and it was absolutely superb. For anyone vaguely interested in cycling while on holiday, leisurely or hardcore, there is much to enjoy hereabouts.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Definitely. This city does winter very very well - mild and sunny with blue skies, pleasant but not hot. Don’t make the mistake of thinking you should go in shorts and flip flops - you’ll not only look like a tourist, you’ll also be shivering in the shade.
An ideal spot for a March city break with minimal crowds and beautifully sunny and mild skies; the ideal counterpoint to the cold and grey of Northern England at this time.
3+4 also worked extremely well, with the right amount of time in each location and an opportunity to extend a city break into a week long trip with the second, more countryside location. As a framework, I will look to replicate this again.
Two points of note: Doing two tours in Seville meant the guides repeated similar historical anecdotes and facts – probably best to do just one tour otherwise it can start sounding repetitious. Duplex Asilah wasn’t the ideal type of accom for bikes as it was tiny so we had to ask the reception to store them for us. Not at all the fault of the accom, but rather something I need to consider when booking a place to stay when we need room to store bikes.
Would I make another visit?
Rare is the place that touches me so much that I want to visit again, to get deeper under its skin; Cadiz province is one of those rare places. We had the most fantastic trip from start to finish.
If we went to Seville again, we’d stay in Triana for a slightly more authentic experience, though we felt we got a good flavour of the city in our 2.5 days so I suspect a revisit is a while away.
I very much want to return to Cadiz province to see and experience some more of its loveliness. Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Tarifa, Cádiz, Castellar de la Frontera in the Alcornocales, and Jerez de la Frontera are now on my hitlist.
WHEN
Early March
Shoulder season with mild weather, fewer crowds, orange blossom in Seville
We got blue skies, still winds, sunny. Warm in the sunshine, but you needed coats, long sleeves, socks and covered toes for the cooler mornings, evenings and shade.
LIGHT
Moderate Days
Sunrise: 7:45am to 7:20am
Sunset: 7:10pm to 7:17pm
Approx. 11–12 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Direct flight from Leeds into Malaga, with Jet 2
We hired a car for the entirety of our trip, and it would be difficult, (though not impossible) to do without it.
Seville is a 2.5 hour drive from Malaga airport; Vejer is about a 1h 40m drive from Seville, then Malaga airport is about 2h 15m from Vejer.
We hired an e-bike for the entirety of our stay in Vejer from Bicicletas Francisco who also handily provided us with some local maps and biking routes.
ACCOMMODATION
Seville - Suites Murillo Alcazar (in Barrio Santa Cruz)
superb location right next door to the Alcazar
ideally walkable for pretty much everything
comfy bed
plenty of space for two people
felt a teensy bit rundown and the breakfast was ‘meh’.
Vejer de la Frontera - La Casa del Califa in the self-catering Duplex Asilah
a collection of real townhouses that have been brought together to make a hotel
gorgeous location with fab service
an excellent restaurant
lacked any soundproofing so we found it was a bit noisy into the evening and in the early morning.
SCHEDULE
Alcázar entrance
Seville - Day 1 to 4
Day 1
Fly: into Malaga airport (convenient flight schedule, running all year from most UK airports, even regional ones)
Collect hire car
Drive: to Seville, 2h 11m driving, 210km
Check-in, settle in, collect a few groceries
Day 2
Stroll: through Barrio Santa Cruz
Lunch: Torres y Garcia, Calle Harinas, 2, 41001 Sevilla
Very modern and hip café right in central Seville but not a single tourist in it. Surprisingly large, and the food was both healthy and cooked with care.
Tour: Sunset City bike tour with Sevilla Bike Tours
Very authentic tour around the city including the outer neighbourhoods that you would be unlikely to see on a short city break. Sunset felt like a good choice as the Spaniards seem to come alive in the early evening and the streets were buzzing. Excellent and passionate guide too.
Note that Seville is almost pancake flat, so this is easy for anyone to do.
Dinner with Drinks: Taberna Alvaro Peregil, Mateos Gago, 22, 41004 Sevilla
Teensy little tapas bar on a street of restaurants made for tourists. Ignore the rest and go here for a taste of that classic Seville experience. Menu is classic, simple, straightforward and tasty.
Day 3
Lunch: Crustum Panem, Calle Puente y Pellón, 24, 41004 Sevilla.
Properly good bakery selling all manner of authentic baked goods. We had empanadas and bread. Top marks for a lunchtime snack.
Evening: Tapas y Flamenco tour with MIMO.
This was superb and probably the best thing we did during our stay in Seville. We visited a small flamenco school in Triana for an authentic and intimate flamenco 45 minute performance of two dancers, one singer and one guitarist. I have chills even now, months after the trip, just thinking about how the performance made me feel.
This was no tourist thing; this felt like the real deal.
These performers exhibited their craft and training with feeling and passion, and the audience was a mixture of locals and tourists in the know. We were then taken off to 3 tapas establishments in Triana and our knowledgeable guide ordered for us - food and drink. Everything was delicious and we left a bit tipsy and fully full like a full thing on full day. 11 out of 10 for this tour.
Day 4
Tour: Alcazar tour with Feel the City tours.
Good tour of the Alcazar, that filled in the historical detail and importance of the building that we would miss if we just went in solo (which you can do if you want to). The only thing about this is that it was very ‘classically touristy’ and the guide’s script sounded memorised and a bit rote. Good, just not outstanding.
Lunch: Gocho Neo Charcuteria, Calle Puente y Pellón, 19, 41004 Sevilla
Teeny little shop for a fresh ham sandwich, with the jamon sliced right in front of you. We had one with a bag of crisps and it was delish.
Drive to Vejer: 160km, 1h 45m driving
Afternoon: Arrive and settle into accommodation, explore Vejer’s cobbled streets and craft shops.
Views from La Breña y Marismas del Barbate Natural Park
Vejer de la frontera & surrounds - Day 4 to 8
Day 5
Ride: Vejer to Barbate loop, 40km
Combined on-road and off-road circular cycle route, Vejer to Barbate, about 40km round trip. Out to the coast, with a stop for coffee in Barbate, this took in one of the smallest nature parks in Andalusia - the Breña y Marismas del Barbate Nature Park. It contains five different ecosystems: marine, cliff, pine grove, marshland and dunes. Only suitable for off-road bikes.
Dinner: Restaurante El Califa
Restaurant within our hotel and about 6 steps from our door.
This place has quite the reputation, and deservedly so. We ate here on two out of four evenings; the menu selection was superb, the service outstanding, the setting elegant and the food sublime. The best food we ate on the whole trip. You can also book in to eat here even if you aren’t a resident of the hotel.
Day 6
Ride & Lunch: Vejer to Medina-Sidonia, about 70km round trip
Combined on-road and off-road circular cycle route, Vejer to Medina-Sidonia, about 70km round trip which even on an e-bike was a full day journey for the round trip. Medina-Sidonia is another one of the white hilltop towns; the journey to and from it was a beautiful rolling sojourn and the climb into town a punisher. We stopped for lunch in Medina before heading back.
Dinner: El Campero, Avda. de la Constitución local 5C, 11160 Barbate.
Restaurant specialising in the red tuna fished right off shore. The service and the food here was excellent. Most importantly, the waiters were all very knowledgeable and make recommendations about the menu which is useful as many of the tuna cuts and dish descriptions will seem entirely foreign
Day 7
Ride: Vejer to El Palmar de Vejer, about 30km round trip
Combined on-road and off-road circular cycle route, Vejer to El Palmar de Vejer, about 30km round trip. Most leisurely of the three routes
Drinks on the beach: El Palmar
the day was a stunner so we hung out at one of the surfer-type bars that line the beach at El Palmar. The place was absolutely buzzing with all kinds of folk - motorcyclists, families, surfers, groups of friends, groups of families. We had a few bevvies and soaked up the sunshine. Bliss.
Dinner: Restaurante El Califa
Day 8
Drive: to Malaga, 2h 30m driving, 200km
Fly home
Other Twin Centre Itineraries
Morbihan, Brittany - a twin-centre trip with road biking and city break
Travelling in early summer, my plan for 10-11 nights in Nantes and the Gulf of Morbihan. An itinerary for biking, art trails, a bit of Jules Verne, eating crepes, visiting medieval towns and castles, and admiring the sunset in pretty port towns.
Why Brittany?
With it’s own language and gastronomy that is heavily influenced by Celtic culture (indeed Brittany counts as one of the six Celtic nations along with Cornwall, Wales, Isle of Man, Ireland and Scotland), visitors are principally drawn to Brittany’s for coastal views, well-preserved historical towns and sites, food treats like salted caramel and crepes, and its unique cultural tradition that is quite distinct from the rest of France.
Tourism is well-established here with a wealth of online information to inform my independent itinerary. Its definitely a region geared up to receive visitors; many of them British, but also many of them French so it looks to have retained authenticity in its touristic offering. It is also well-serviced with transport options from the UK. This is not necessarily the place to discover that feels like I’m the only one to have done so, but I can take advantage of the expansive tourism infrastructure and online resources to get to some of the lesser-known places and design myself a unique itinerary quite easily.
Across the whole region, there seems to be a number of locales that strike my fancy and meet my brief of culturally rich, a little under the mainstream UK travel radar, and with opportunities for biking - Nantes, Quimper and Bénodet, St Malo, the Cote Eméraude, Noirmoutier-en-Île, Dinan, ruins at Carnac…this looks to be the kind of place that I will need several different holidays to see everything I’d like to see.
For this itinerary, I have settled on a design for southern Brittany, starting with a city break in Nantes, followed up with enjoying the coast in the Gulf of Morbihan, in easy reach of medieval town Vannes.
Nantes is the former “City of Dukes”, and was once the administrative capital of Brittany but is now part of the Pays de la Loire. This city looks to be a beauty - art features heavily, history is everywhere, and it looks to be a classy kind of place that isn’t too big to really see on a city break. There is also industry and an important port, and as per the Copenhagenize Index 2017, was marked as the 16th most “bicycle-friendly” city in the world.
The Gulf of Morbihan is a natural harbour; indeed ‘mor bihan’ in Breton means ‘little sea’. It is scattered with little islands, isles and islets; the mainland is lined with pretty little coastal villages; and being on the west coast, it is a beautiful theatre for incredible sunsets. The whole area looks perfect for exploring on a bike; quiet rural roads, excellent views, and for the historical and cultural hit, several castles and the medieval city of Vannes are within easy distance for day trips on two wheels.
Itinerary At A Glance
10 day independent itinerary for Brittany & the Loire Valley in Northwestern France: 3 nights in Nantes, and 7 nights in the Gulf of Morbihan near Vannes
Based on travelling in summer, flying in and out of Nantes from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include getting to know more about Jules Verne, biking around Nantes, taking a brunch tour on the River Erdre, indulging in buttery crepes, hanging out in the vibrant fortified medieval city of Vannes, and e-biking around the craggy coast of the Gulf of Morbihan.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Late June or early July.
Brittany has an extremely pleasant summer from June through to September with mid-20s temperature and fairly low rain during this time also. I will expect changeable weather even in the summer, though typically a few degrees warmer than the UK. The rest of the year is cool (not really very cold) but can be very wet (wetter than Northern England)
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds Bradford to Nantes, with a 2hr stop in Amsterdam
Hire a car to collect from the airport for the entirety of the trip and a road bike.
ACCOMMODATION
Gulf of Morbihan (in my order of preference)
La Villa du Guern - I’d like any one of those suites overlooking the water
I’m not sure I have ever encountered a more original place to stay than this house on the water
La Ferm’h - elegantly furnished eco-gites in Baden
Right outside of Vannes, but with views overlooking the Gulf of Morbihan - great looking Airbnb
Nantes (in my order of preference)
Maisons du Monde Hotel & Suites - my pick would be the Copenhague apartment
Luxurious 2 bed apartment with a grand and opulent personality
Stunner of a split-level duplex
Tasteful & modern 2 bed apartment with welcoming decor and nicely laid out space, about 1 mile from the centre of Nantes
SCHEDULE
Nantes - Day 1 to 4
Visit Chateaux des Ducs – 15th century castle tracing the history of Nantes
Take brunch cruise, a lunch cruise or a dinner cruise aboard the Bateaux Nantais up the River Erdre
This city is so bicycle friendly – I’d try some of these bike routes suggested by France Vélo Tourisme for in and around Nantes
Reputedly, the Quai des Antilles on the western side of the Ile de Nantes is the place to be for an early evening aperitif or beer. The riverside is supposedly lined with bars and cafés, and it bursts into action after sunset.
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See an art exhibition at the industrial shed unit that is HAB Galérie, located on Île de Nantes
Book a performance at Le Lieu Unique - The last remaining vestiges of the LU biscuit factory established here in 1885 by Louis Lefèvre-Utile have been rehabilitated in 2000 by the architect Patrick Bouchain to give rise to this national centre for drama, dance and music. There is also a Turkish bath, a restaurant and a DJ in the bar on weekends
Follow the Green line through the city past nearly forty public art works and check out the Nymphea artwork at night drifting over the River Erdre
History of printworks at the Printing Museum
Jules Verne Museum, to learn about the city’s most famous artistic son
Wander by the Machines de l’Ile and the Great Elephant – this Jules Verne creation is the emblem of Nantes
Drive to Noirmoutier-en-Île - a flat island littered with cycling trails just off the Atlantic coast and about 1.5 hours from Nantes
Vannes & surrounds - Day 4 to 10
Spend at least half a day walking around half-timbered, fortified medieval town of Vannes. Eat in its cafes, admire it’s marina and walk the ramparts
Take an oyster mini-cruise to Ile aux Moines, to taste the oysters and learn more about their farming and the fragile ecosystem
Take a trip to Quiberon to visit the confectioner’s shop of Henri la Roux, inventor of the famous salted caramel
Bike out to the Fortresse de Largoët, the highest keep in France (2hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Bike out to the Chateau de Tredion for a walk around their sculpted gardens and sculpture park (3hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to Auray-Saint-Goustan for a wander around this pretty port town (2hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to see Rochefort-en-Terre and the Moulin Neuf for a walk around this reputedly beautiful floral village (4 to 5 hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to Carnac to see the ancient standing stones
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Oysters, cider, white wine, galettes/crepes and buttery Breton biscuits are just a few of the famed local treats.
Fish in a beurre blanc sauce, also known as beurre Nantais is a classic dish for Nantes.
Muscadet is a dry, crisp white wine, the most common wine produced in the Loire region.
Nantes Tourisme gives lots of recommendations for restaurants, creperies and wineries in Nantes. There are even some recipes on there for the classic foods of Nantes
Michelin Travel guide offers up several good food options in and around Vannes, Aubay and Baden - I’d probably book a couple of these in advance. There are even a couple of places with a Michelin star
Other Twin Centre Itineraries