Harbours to Highlands. A New England road trip itinerary for Summer
A summer touring holiday through New England - Maine, Vermont a Boston.
Itinerary At A Glance
16 night independent touring itinerary for Massachussetts, Maine and Vermont, taking a circular route, starting and finishing in Boston
Based on flying into Boston, and hiring a car for the entirety of the trip
Highlights include cycling the pine forests of Maine, a boat trip out of Boothbay Harbour, burnt ends at Bluebird BBQ, Saturday Farmers Market in Burlington, SUP yoga on Lake Champlain, MTB riding all over the Green Mountain State, Boston Walking Tour and seeing the Red Sox vs The Yankees play at traditional Fenway Park
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Maine is a long-time holiday destination for domestic tourists though most British people visit New England for the autumn colours, or ‘leaf peeper’ tourists as they are affectionately known locally. We bucked this trend and headed there in high summer, hence, we went without too much expectation.
What we found was green, grand and glorious. Maine smells of pine trees, Lake Champlain is breathtakingly beautiful, and Boston is just hip enough without taking itself too too seriously. Maine in particular is a sailor’s paradise (I’m imagining here - I’m no sailor), with endless islands, coves and inlets to explore but we also found it a delight to explore land on two wheels. Vermont is a superb spot for two-wheeled activities of all stripes. All in all, a recommended spot for a summer visit.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Almost perfectly.
7 nights in Maine was a little too long for us; the location is better suited to folks who like to spend their time on the water - sailing, fishing, kayaking - none of which we do. 4 nights in Maine probably would have worked better for us.
7 nights in Burlington for us was also perfect - plenty of time to really get to know this active city and a lot of MTB options.
3 nights in Boston is ideal.
Drive time between destinations was perfect. Travelling in the car this way, we got to see parts of New Hampshire that we may never visit if it meant making a dedicated holiday there.
Would I make another visit?
Certainly to Vermont, and could even see us returning to spend more time in Burlington itself. The entire Lake Champlain region makes a fantastic destination for biking, whether road or MTB.
I feel I have now seen enough of both Maine and Boston to not return, though I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend either.
WHEN
August
Very warm and sunny was what we experienced for the majority of the trip, with the odd cloudy or rainy few hours.
Typically warm to hot, with rain.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 05:40am to 06:43am
Sunset: 20:18pm to 19:31pm
13-14 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Fly from Manchester to Boston, drive between locations, fly back out from Boston
We obviously took our car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as hiring bikes in both Maine and Vermont
ROUTE & STOPS
Drive 1,028 km, 11 hours 45 mins, over 16 days
Drive Yorkshire to Manchester; Fly into Boston
Drive from Boston to Boothbay Harbour (2h 40m drive) for a 7 night stay
Drive from Boothbay Harbour to Burlington (5h drive) for a 7 night stay; drive through New Hampshire’s White Mountains along the way
Drive from Burlington to Boston (3h 45m drive) for a 3 night stay
Fly Boston to Manchester; drive back to Yorkshire
ACCOMMODATION
Boothbay Harbour
Apartment called ‘Boothbay Harbour Cottage Apartment’ (no longer operating)
Lovely. About a 10 minute stroll from centre of Boothbay Harbour village, and a bakery-cafe just round the corner. Small outdoor space too for reading and relaxing on the warm summer evenings, a place where we regularly did and saw hummingbirds to boot.
Burlington
This carriage house studio apartment
Idyllic. Large studio apartment, kitchenette, private terrace overlooking the mature and immaculate garden, ample space for two (despite only being a studio), parking, located in quick and easy access to both central Burlington and Lake Champlain (each about 15 minutes’ walk). Recommended.
Boston
Apartment called ‘Boston Christopher’ (no longer operating)
Not recommended. Devoid of atmosphere, strange, looking at a brick wall.
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Fly to Boston; Drive Boston to Boothbay Harbour
About 9-10 hours flying; About 420km, 2hrs 40m driving
Boothbay Harbour - Day 1 to 7
Had several breakfast waffles at Mama D’s - with a porch terrace, rocking chair and clapboard exterior, this felt like quintessential New England to me. Good coffee and friendly service, located just outside Boothbay Harbour town, so full of locals for an authentic experience.
Cycled around Southport Island
Visited Maine Lobster Festival in Rockland. Got ‘lobster takeaway’ and watched the locals partake in mad games on the water a la Takeshi’s Castle
Went out on a sailboat with a local guide
Had plenty of blueberry soda - a taste of Maine for us
Day 8 - Drive between Boothbay Harbour and Burlington
Stopped in Jackson, New Hampshire for lunch and a leg stretch. Sought out the covered bridges of New Hampshire along the way.
About 420km, 5hrs driving
Day 8 to 14 - Burlington, Vermont
Had several bakery breakfasts at August First cafe
Cycled into the Island Line Trail into Lake Champlain - 45km loop follows Burlington’s waterfront via the Burlington Greenway and heads out on the beautiful Colchester Causeway three miles into the middle of the lake.
Rode the MTB trails at Cady Hill near Stowe - well worth a visit.
Rode the MTB trails at Saxon Hill, just outside of Burlington - flowy singletrack with boardwalks - recommended
Burlington Farmer’s Market comes to town on Saturday morning and offers a fantastic mix of ready-to-eat treats and tasty ingredients to take home and cook with. We had THE most delicious sour cherry bagel with a cream cheese dip, noshed in the square with the sounds of a guitarist strumming for the pleasure of the market crowd. Delightful.
Dined at Bluebird BBQ, in Burlington, for classic american barbecue, burnt ends and Vermont beer. Recommended.
Did some SUP yoga on Lake Champlain
Day 14 - Drive between Burlington and Boston
About 348km, 3hr 20mins driving
Day 14 to 16 - Boston
Booked tickets for Boston Red Sox vs. NY Yankees at Fenway Park - for me, one of the highlights of the trip, since we didn’t plan this! These two are ancient rivals - we couldn’t have been more lucky to have them be playing each other on the Saturday we were in Boston. A great experience, even for those uninitiated in the game of baseball. Great atmosphere and wonderful memory.
Visited the Patriots Hall of Fame
Took a Walking Tour with Boston by Foot - excellent. Informative and fun.
Had all-American sandwiches at Sam La Grassa in downtown Boston
Day 17 - Fly Boston to Manchester
About 9-10 hours
Sewing projects for a Summer itinerary
A Summer drive-and-ride through Belgium & Northern France
Itinerary journal of my summer tour through the Belgian Ardennes and Northern France. Bikes very much mandatory.
Itinerary At A Glance
14 night independent touring itinerary for Belgium and France, taking a coast-to-coast route starting in Rotterdam, finishing in Cherbourg
Based on driving from Leeds, with bikes, using ferry transport from Hull to Rotterdam, back into the UK from Cherbourg
Highlights include Belgian beer, a cycle ride through water, visiting the ghostly remains of an F1 race track from the 1960s, cycling the river-strewn landscape of the Loire Valley, picnic at Chateau de L’Islette, The Bayeaux Tapestry, and D-Day museum at Arromanches-les-Bains.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
This was our very first trip taking our car from Leeds across into Europe, and so, to make this introductory experience as easy as possible, we chose to make the driving the least onerous we could by not venturing too far into the continent.
Northern Europe is a lovely place to spend the summer; verdant, warm, buzzing with the life of festivals and outdoorsing often denied to us in the colder, wetter months. Throughout this region, there is a palpable excitement that summer is here, and a determinedness to enjoy it while we can.
We chose Wallonia for its forested hills, quiet roads, and brewing heritage. Reims offered a counterpoint — not for champagne, but for the haunting remains of a forgotten F1 circuit. The Loire Valley is the land of river and chateaux. The riding promised was easy, quiet, and punctuated with ample towns, villages, markets, chateaux, vineyards and culture. Normandy, with its layered history and coastal charm, rounded out the journey with something a little more serious - warttime history and medieval tapestry.
Every location on this trip offered excellent biking opportunities - whether that’s leisurely pootles or long-distance leg-burners - as well as discovery, and rest. A kind of slow travel that lets the landscape unfold at the speed of a bike.
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
One of the very best holidays we have ever taken, ever. I don’t think it is possible for France to disappoint, such is the density of loveliness, culture and history, but Belgium was an unexpected surprise, totally exceeding our expectations in every way.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Perfectly. Not too much driving, but enough to cover some real distance between place to place. Travelling in the car this way, we also got to see parts of Holland, Belgium and France that we would probably never visit if it meant making a dedicated holiday there.
Would I make another visit?
Certainly - with the exception of Champagne region. While we had a good time there, this was my least favourite spot, but Belgium, Loire Valley and Normandy held so much appeal, with many more options for a visit than we could fit into this trip.
WHEN
July
Very warm and sunny was what we experienced for the full two weeks, though I was prepared for some occasional overcast or rainy days which failed to come.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 06:01am to 06:33am
Sunset: 22:10pm to 21:42pm
15-16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Ferry from Hull into Rotterdam, and out of Cherbourg into Poole
We obviously took our car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as road bikes attached with a carrier.
ROUTE & STOPS
Drive 1,407 km, 16 hours, over 14 days
Ferry Hull into Rotterdam (overnight crossing); drive to Belgian Ardennes for a 3 night stay; stop off at Delft for breakfast and Genk for Ride Thru The Water
Drive from Belgian Ardennes to Reims (Champagne region) for a 2 night stay
Drive from Reims to Loire Valley for a 5 night stay; stop off at Montargis along the way
Drive from Loire Valley to Caen; stop off at Le Mans along the way
Ferry Cherbourg to Poole; drive back to Yorkshire
Image of full route with all stops
ACCOMMODATION
Reims
Centrally located, clean, modern, large apartment. Only issue was a lack of parking and note that Reims operates a Low Emission Zone, for which you need to have a permit before you arrive in France.
Loire Valley
Idyllic. Large kitchen, private outdoor area, ample space for two, fairly rurally located in quick and easy access to the quiet country lanes perfect for road cycling with space in the hallway for bikes. Recommended.
near Caen
Garage-turned-holiday let, this was a lovely little compact space in a residential village on the outskirts of Caen, with a bakery and pizza restaurant in town. Ideal for cycling, with space in the hallway for bikes. Recommended.
SCHEDULE
Canals in Delft
Day 1 - Drive to Wallonia, with stop-offs in Delft and Genk
Had breakfast in Delft - it was glorious. To my mind, nowhere on earth does ‘cute town’ like the Dutch, and Delft is no exception. Sat by the canal on a warm Monday morning, enjoying Roze koek and Gevulde koek alongside a good coffee, and watched the town come gently to life.
Stopped off in Genk to Ride-Thru-The-Water and made use of the excellent Points-Noeuds system
Durbuy, and the surrounding countryside
Day 1 to 4 - Wallonia
3 nights
Cycled around the Belgian Ardennes, using Visit Wallonia for downloadable .gpx routes.
Dined at miniature little bistro, Ardelle, in Rochefort
Durbuy is a fantastic destination for a bike ride, surrounded by open farmlands with paved cycle routes snaking through
RIDING IN WALLONIA
Wallonia offers varied terrain. The southern areas near the Ardennes are steep and challenging — great for experienced cyclists looking for serious climbs. In contrast, the northern part near the Flanders border is more moderately hilly and better suited to relaxed touring.
This region is ideal for touring: quiet country roads, manageable gradients, and plenty of small towns and villages to stop in.
We found the riding here to be well-balanced and it’s a great region for combining cycling with other interests like food, beer, and local crafts, especially if you plan your routes to include stops or destination activities.
Day 5 - Drive between Belgian Ardennes & Reims
About 165km, 2hrs driving
Stocked up on beer before we left Belgium.
Reim-Gueux race track, former pitlane
Day 5 to 7 - Reims
2 nights
Cycled from Reims out to the abandoned Formula 1 circuit, Reims-Gueux, whose orginal structures including the grandstands, pit buildings and timing tower, still stand today and are preserved as historical landmarks and maintained by local enthusiasts. Eerie and magical, a perfect destination for a road ride before making our way to the more known pastoral landscapes of the Champagne villages and then routing back into Reims
Day 7 - Drive between Reims & Loire Valley
About 480km, 5hr 30mins driving
To break up the long drive, we stopped at Montargis for coffee, cake and a leg stretch. This isn’t a place to go out of your way to visit, but was a decently cute town with plenty of life and options for coffee and baked goods.
Loire Valley scenery
Day 7 to 12 - Loire Valley
5 nights
Picnic’d with live music at Chateau de L'Islette - a highlight of the stay. This place is fairytale stuff, with the River Indre meandering through the grounds, flanked by bridges, lawns and billowing flora. On Fridays and Saturdays throughout July and August, you can buy tickets for their open air picnic with live music; just turn up with your loved ones, blankets, food and drink to enjoy the evening.
RIDING IN THE LOIRE VALLEY
The Loire is ideal for very relaxed, scenic riding. Even beginners and very occasional cyclists will not struggle here. The terrain is mostly flat, with quiet roads and well-marked cycle routes that wind through vineyards, riverside paths, and historic towns. It’s perfect for multi-day touring with cultural stops — châteaux, markets, and wine tastings are never far off. Some of our rides includes:
62km ride taking in Azay-le-Rideau, Langeais and Villandry - Langeais is a picturesque town right on the banks of the Loire and is well worth a stop. There is a market on a Sunday morning that is worth making your destination.
57 km ride taking in Loches, Montrésor and Chedigny - the ‘village-garden’ of Chedigny is a particularly worthwhile waypoint for a road ride.
54km ride to see Rivarennes……funny place this, bit of a ghost town really, clinging deperately to the heritage craft of dried pears.
Day 12 - Drive between Loire Valley & Caen
About 270km, 2hr 45mins driving
We made sure to route through Le Mans to drive the Mulsanne Straight, Inidianapolis and Arnage Corners (all of which is public road when not on a race day).
The Bayeux Tapestry exhibit
Day 12 to 14 - near Caen
Visited Bayeux Tapestry - for me, the absolute highlight of our trip. It is hard to believe this article of history is 1000 years old. It is vast and precious and magical, exhibited wonderfully well and with a very useful audio guide that made me feel like I was in a fantasy novel. Unlike most tourist destinations of this repute, we waited hardly any time to buy tickets and enter, and as an added bonus, Bayeux the town is also utterly adorable - well worth a patisserie stop. We did so at La Pâtisserie de Guillaume.
Visited the D-Day Museum at Arromanches-les-Bains - to tell the tale of Operation Overlord, and in particular, how Allied Forces built and erected a ‘floating port’ off the coast of Arromanches-les-Bains to faciltate the D-Day landings and ongoing supply of men, supplies and equipment for the re-taking of France.
RIDING IN NORMANDY
The riding in Normandy isn’t especially challenging, but it’s not effortless either — the terrain is mostly flat, which means you’re pedalling constantly. Roads are often narrow, with stone walls close to the edge, and the sky tends to hang low and slate-grey. Every so often, the landscape opens up and you catch a glimpse of the sea. It’s steady, atmospheric riding. Here are some routes we took:
Cycled to the Merville Gun Battery through Pegasus Bridge - historically important, Pegasus Bridge was the first bridge to be liberated following D-Day landings on June 6th 1944
Day 15 - Drive between Caen & Cherbourg
About 130km, 1hr 30mins driving
Ferry from Cherbourg back to Poole, then drive back to Yorkshire
Ideas for another visit
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Stay near Namur
Cycle Wallonia’s UNESCO route
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Stay near the tiny city of Châteauroux
Visit Musée du Textile et de la Mode (Museum of Textiles & Fashion) in Cholet
Visit Musée de la Chemiserie et de l'Élégance Masculine (Shirt-making and Male Elegance Museum) in the Loire Valley features a textile garden with plants used for textile fibers, dyes, and other related processes
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Visit Dieppe market, voted best in France in 2020
Take a factory-workshop tour of Bohin, last surviving pin and needle manufacturer in France, located in the Orne department in Normandy
Visit Les Jardins d’Étretat - Clinging close to the cliff, the gardens at Etretat are a poetic mix of landscape and sculpture known as “land-art.”
Visit The Sculpture Garden at the Château de Bois-Guilbert
Dine at Le Goéland 1951, a seasonal restaurant and bar (open during the high season) in a converted bunker from the war on the edge of a peninsula with breath taking views on the sea.
From spring to autumn along the sea front at Le Havre there’s a host of pop-up bars and restaurants, some of which have a view right on the sea.
Swim in the sea water swimming pool, plage du Plat Gousset in Granville
Swim in the Bains des Docks in Le Havre, designed by reputed French architect Jean Nouvel - this 5000 square metre aquatic centre comprises 12 pools, including a 50 x 21 metre outdoor pool, several leisure pools, a sauna, steam room, spa and fitness room.
Dieppe’s outdoor swimming pool offers views of castle and limestone cliffs
Other itineraries & food for France
The Swedish West Coast - a twin-centre itinerary with biking, hiking, sculpture and excellent baking
Travelling in early summer, how we enjoyed 12 nights on the West Coast of Sweden. Hiking, biking and outdoor dining all feature.
Why the Swedish West Coast?
The entirety of Sweden’s coastline is both vast and varied - there are rocky granite coasts, deep sand-dune backed beaches of fine golden sand, vast island archipelagos of islands, islets and skerries connected to the mainland by bridges or chain ferries, forests right up to the coast, high cliffs, even inland lakes the size of inland seas. Just off the coast there are deep forests and meandering lanes amid a patchwork of meadows and farms.
The West Coast of Sweden has Gothenburg (Sweden’s second largest city, and home of Volvo) as the major urban base, but outside of that there is plenty of nature, both wild and tamed, for outdoor exploring, either on two wheels or on two feet. This is the summer playground of many a-Swede but not often visited by folks from the UK, so naturally, I feel like a jammy bugger, excited to be discovering something so authentically Swedish.
We based ourselves in Halland, just south of Gothenburg. It’s beachy, breezy, and brilliant for bikes. Halmstad, the main town, kicks off Sweden’s first national cycle trail and has a laid-back, surfy vibe.
Head north and you hit Bohuslän, a dreamy stretch of smooth granite islands and tiny fishing villages. It’s all red cottages, salty air, and kayaks weaving through the islets. It feels like a postcard.
We spent 12 sun-soaked days here—27°C and blue skies the whole way. Apparently, that’s rare. But we’ll take it.
Itinerary At A Glance
12 night independent itinerary for Halmstad in Halland province and Orust island on Bohuslän coast
Based on flying from Leeds into Gothenburg, with a hop in Amsterdam
Highlights include DIY outdoor dining in one of the Edible Country tables, Bronze Age rock carvings, biking the famous Kattegattelden coastal trail, hiking and outdoor cooking in the forest on Midsummer’s Eve, and plenty of fresh baked goods at cafes with seaviews
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Late June/early July
Driest, warmest and lightest months, plan for mixed weather.
Note also that, outside the major urban centres, many of the summer homes, tourist attractions, ferry routes and eateries are only operational May to September, so visiting outside of these times is a very different (and probably trickier) prospect.
TRAVEL MEANS
Leeds to Gothenburg with a hop in Amsterdam, flying with KLM
Car also be essential to move between locations, as well as road or hybrid bike hire for the entirety of the stay in Halmstad
ACCOMMODATION
Halmstad/Halland province
We stayed in this Cosy and luxurious villa on the outskirts of Halmstad.
Quiet. Large outdoor space including pool and cooking area. Proper family home with all the mod-cons. Recommended.
Bohuslän Coast
We stayed in this Gorgeous and modern coastal home with incredible views out to sea from the deck.
Recommended, especially if you particularly prize a peaceful and out-of-the-way location.
SCHEDULE
Halmstad in Halland province - Day 1 to 7
Day 1
Arrive: drove to Halmstad from Gothenburg
Collect Bike Rental from Rent-A-Bike Halmstad
Day 2
Bike: Pick a section of the Kattegattelden cycle trail using this extremely handy and comprehensive website to the trail, with an option to download the GPX files.
Cafe: Stopped at neighbourhood cafe Borjes Harplige Konditori for a pitstop and has my very first try of a chokoladbollar. Flipping marvellous and a wide selection for such a small village bakery.
Dinner: at the house
Day 3
Lund: This was one of our only rainy days, on which we headed out to Lund, the ‘Oxford of Sweden’, 1h 30m drive to the south.
Wandered the town, and stopped for coffee and baked goods before heading home - specifically Ramklints Konditorei for traditional Swedish patisserie and Lund Gateau Saluhallen
Day 4
Hike: Went on this Gourmet Hike tour with Anders. Cooked outdoors and checked constantly for ticks…..found some as a matter of fact…
Day 5
Bike: Pick a section of the Kattegattelden cycle trail which includes Falkenberg and explore the town as part of the route
Dinner: Booked in at Köketin Falkenberg, recommended by the White Guide - an excellent choice. The food and the service was superb, proudly Scandi, and just on the right side of ‘fine dining’. Not so progressive that it felt ‘try hard’ but still special enough to have felt like a proper treat. This wasn’t food I can make at home.
Day 6
Relax: enjoyed the hot weather in the garden
Dinner: BBQ outside
Day 7
Fika: Anders (our tour guide) and his wife, Viktoria, invited us for fika at their home in Halmstad. Viktoria baked a variety of teeny little bakes, from chokoladbiskvier to slices of Prinsesstårta. We sat outside in the shade of a tree with coffee and delicious baked goods and told each other some stories.
Deeply grateful for their invite to join us at their home. A highlight of our trip, for sure.
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Spend an evening at Rotundan in Norre Katts Park in central Halmstad, with street food options with a musical performance from their cultural program
Take a guided tour of Tjolöholms Slott (Tjoloholm’s Castle)
Visit the Bath House at Varberg (Kalbadhuset Varberg) for a sauna and fika
Take a wander around Helsingborg
Take a trip out to Varberg to dine at Spiseriet (for tables of less than 6 people, it is drop-ins only)
Spend an afternoon in Halmstad, using this self-guided history walk as my rough guide - its only in Swedish but nice to have a paper copy for a bit of slow-ways pathfinding
Stop in for lunch or fika at Söderfamiljen in central Halmstad for a view over the river
Visit the Halland Art Museum or Mjellby Art Museum, to get to know a little more about artists in the region
Book in to ÄNG restaurant on the Ästad Vingård in Halland County. Recently awarded both 1 Michelin Star and a Michelin Green Star - first introduced in 2020, the Michelin Green Star is an annual award which highlights restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices
Do a local beer tasting on Friday or Saturday nights at Halmstad Brygghus
Day 8 - drive between Halmstad & Bohuslän
Made a pitstop at the café town of Alingsås, the Swedish Capital of Fika, for a wander around the town and its many cafes. Cute, not astounding.
About 300km, 3hrs 30mins driving
Bohuslän Coast - Day 8 to 13
Day 8
Settle in, buy supplies
Day 9
Sculpture Park: Went to the Pilane outdoor sculpture park on Tjorn, open May to September from 9am to 7pm. Gorgeous.
Lunch: Dined in the courtyard under the blazing sun, at Margareta's Koko Skafferi, Sunsby Sateri. Set in a historic manor estate, the café blends old-world charm with cozy vibes. You can sit indoors among vintage furnishings or outside surrounded by gardens.
Walk: there are walking trails at Sundsby Sateri. We took to one after lunch, to work off the kladdkaka…….which was utterly excellent - a crisp shell with a gooey interior - but also extremely indulgent.
Dinner: at the house
Day 10
Museum: Visited Nordic Watercolour Museum on Tjorn Island
Lunch: Lottas Bak & Farm (Lotta’s Sourdough Bakery & Cafe). Open Wed-Fri 9am to 5pm, Sat 8am to 3pm, Sun 10am to 3pm. A delighful neighbourhood cafe with a back terrace that looks out over a teensy little inlet. Tranquil and relaxed, with great food and an on-site bakery. An ideal spot for a sit-down.
Day 11
Visited the Vitklycke Museum and rock carvings in Tanum, member part of the World Heritage list as an outstanding example of Bronze Age art. Visitors can either join a guided tour or follow the well-marked six kilometre path for an exploration of the many rock carvings at this site. Open 10am to 5pm June to August (more limited opening times April, May, Sept, Oct and Nov).
We chose the independent option.
Pretty breathtaking. The carvings are highly visible, having been repainted to really stand out, and its rather mindbending the quantity that there on the site.One in particualr is a huge depiction of a man, way bigger than human size.
Highly highly recommended.
Day 12
Forgaging & outdoor dining: Booked on one of the Edible Country tables at Ramsvik. Stunning stunning location, perched on a cliff looking out over The Skagerrak—a strait that connects the North Sea to the Kattegat and separates Sweden from Norway and Denmark.
The foraging though, was very very difficult, having only been provided with a stylised line drawing
Day 13
Have one final breakfast of coffee and kanelbulle (cinnamon bun)
Try to leave in the afternoon
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Wander around Marstrand on Kungälv island
Make day trips to visit a couple of the prize spots on the island of Orust - Gullholmen and Mollösund
Hike Dyron Island boardwalk trail, ending with a stop at the public sauna
Dinner at Brygghuset, Fiskebäckskil- multiple winner of the Whiskey Restaurant of the Year Award, and reputedly knowledgeable in all things seafood
Sewing and Wearing
Other Active Holiday Itineraries
Southern Germany - a 12 night Summer road trip.
A hot summer road trip through Germany’s southern states. Castles, cakes, pretzels, bikes, hikes, lakes and beer all make an appearance. There’s nothing this place doesn’t have.
Itinerary At A Glance
12 night independent touring itinerary for Southern Germany, across the two southern states of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria.
Based on flying into Stuttgart from Manchester, and back in from Munich into Manchester, in July
Highlights include an invigorating walk around the hills of Heidelberg, a leisurely stroll around spa-town Baden-Baden, rest-stop coffee on the Lake Constance lakeside in Lindau, biking in the Black Forest and around Chiemsee Lake, a visit to The Eagles Nest in Berchtesgaden, a tour around the Eisriesenwelt Ice Caves over the border in Austria, Black Forest Gateau in its home in the Black Forest, and daily pretzel indulgence.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Did the place live up to expectations?
I would say this trip exceeded expectations and doesn’t get the attention it deserves.
I think the common belief is that Germany is a land of industry and/or grungy alternativeness; Brits go to Germany for Oktoberfest or a kooky bohemian-alternative city break in Berlin or Munich, but no-one seems to consider it a place to summer so that of course made it even more appealing.
I always like to think I’m choosing ‘off-the-beaten-track’ options and I got it into my head that Germany might make a fantastic summer destination - I imagined floral meadows, rolling hills, dancing waterfalls and outdoor beer gardens - I wasn’t far wrong really, but add in castles, excellent baked goods and some World War II historical sites.
The regions we visited honoured history and tradition, in and amongst the gorgeous rolling green countryside. There is a magnificence about it, with what felt to me like a commitment to aesthetics and beauty. It was clean, welcoming, green, varied and with much to see and do as a tourist.
We absolutely LOVED this trip, and have fallen a little bit in love with Germany as a result.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Logistically, Germany is both very easy to get to from the UK, with only a short flying distance and multiple arrival/departure points, and very easy to move around with an excellent road system - for this reason, the independent touring holiday, spending 3 nights, 4 nights and 5 nights in different locations across the southern states of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria, worked perfectly.
I settled on starting off with a city break in Heidelberg, a university city on the River Neckar with glorious Baroque architecture; moving on to stay in Triberg in the Black Forest, the birthplace of the Black Forest Gateau; finishing up at the biggest lake in the Bavarian Lake District, Lake Chiemsee.
This almost felt like 6 holidays in one owing to the contrasts we experienced throughout the trip - we had 35°C weather and a visit to an ice cave where it was below freezing; we found Freiburg im Bresigau a vibrant and youthful place contrasted with the strong traditional feeling in the Bavarian Lake District; we had all of city, town, village, river, mountain, lake and forest. Some of the tiny memorable details of being in Germany were the colourful floral window boxes decorating most houses - we saw this everywhere - and the pretzels, the freshness and taste of which isn’t well replicated in pretzels you buy in the UK.
The weather is more changeable than you can expect in southern Europe, but it was very hot on at least half of our 12 days, with much opportunity to enjoy outdoor activity as a result and I would say generally hotter than the UK.
Don’t fall into the anglophone assumption that everywhere you go will speak English - they may not, so brush up on some German phrasing to help you through simple activities you know you are going to do regularly.
Would I make another visit?
I would definitely consider another summer holiday in Germany and I have considered a similar touring holiday crisscrossing the French-German-Swiss borders with stops in Freiburg, Colmar/Mulhouse, and Neuchatel. My advice for others would be to choose Freiburg im Breisgau as the base in the Black Forest. This little university city was absolutely buzzing, with delightfully unique little canals running through its streets. It would be an easy location to enjoy both the food and culture of a city and outdoor activities in the surrounding countryside.
FLIGHTS & OTHER TRAVEL MEANS
Fly with Lufthansa from Manchester, into Stuttgart, and out of Munich
We also hired a car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as bikes for parts of the trip
ROUTE & STOPS
Fly Manchester into Stuttgart; drive to Heidelberg for a 3 night stay
Drive from Heidelberg to the Black Forest (Triberg) for a 4 night stay; stop off at Baden-Baden along the way
Drive from The Black Forest to the Bavarian Lake District (Lake Chiemsee) for a 5 night stay; stop off at Lindau along the way
Drive from Lake Chiemsee to Munich; fly Munich to Manchester
ACCOMMODATION
Heidelberg
Hotel Chester on the outskirts of Heidelberg.
While the hotel itself was lovely, and we couldn’t complain about anything really - it was modern, clean, quiet, with good service and a very good breakfast - it was too far out to make the most of the 2.5 days we had in Heidelberg. This was a lesson learnt for me.
Black Forest
Inselklause in Triberg.
Hotel and service was lovely, but it was the wrong choice of location for us - it wasn’t central to anything we wanted to visit so everything became quite a drive away.
Lake Chiemsee
Hotel Bonnschloessl in Bernau am Chiemsee.
Traditional and classic - nothing to write home about for us, but clean, tidy and friendly.
SCHEDULE
Heidelberg - Day 1 to 4
Visited Schwetzingen Palace (Schloss Schwetzingen) on the outskirts of Heidelberg. Glorious. The gardens in particular make an ideal place for a summer wander
Walked the Philosophenweg (Philosophers Way) on the western banks of the River Necker and accessible starting from the city centre. It is a nice physical challenge and offers excellent views of the city as well as interesting sites like the Heidelberg Thingstatte which is a Nazi-built open-air amphitheatre where thousands of people could gather for propaganda presentations. Eerie.
Visited the Technik Museum Speyer - an automotive and aviation museum on the outskirts of Heidelberg
Lunched at Strohauers Cafe in central Heidelberg. Classic and authentic with an outdoor seating area perfect for people-watching.
Had top-class coffee and cake at Bäckerei Utz on our day trip out to Schloss Schwetzingen.
Drive between Heidelberg & Black Forest - Day 4
About 180km, 2hr 15 mins driving
On our way through to the Black Forest, we stopped at Baden-Baden, a glorious little spa town at the start of the Black Forest for a little coffee and a peruse around this pretty affluent town.
Black Forest - Day 4 to 8
Walked the route alongside and over the Triberg Waterfalls - the highest in Germany
Had Black Forest Gateau at Cafe Schaefer in Triberg
The hotel we were staying in, Inselklause, also had a lovely restaurant and a river running just behind it meaning some of the dishes included caught-that-day river trout from their own back yard. Really good
Had absolutely gorgeous chocolate and baking confections at Gmeiner on our day trip out to Freiburg im Breisgau
Took a day trip out to Freiburg im Breisgau - a highlight of our trip. The city is funky, outdoorsy and with the most unusual little miniature canal system running through its streets. We actually parked at the top of the mountain outside Freiburg to take a trip on the Schauinslandbahn - a cable car connecting an upper station near the summit of the Schauinsland mountain with a lower station in the municipality of Horben, near the city of Freiburg im Breisgau. Then it was a short and simple tram ride from the lower station into the city and it was worth it for the peaceful views of the Black Forest as we made the descent
Drive between Black Forest & Bavarian Lake District - Day 8
About 420km, 4hr 45 mins driving
On our way through to Lake Chiemsee and to break up the long 5 hour drive, we stopped at Lindau on the banks of Lake Constance (Bodensee in German) and wow - this little lakeside town is just gorgeous - all little streets, pastel-coloured buildings, floral window boxes and loads of outdoor cafes and cobbled squares. It is actually a teeny island in the lake itself, reached by crossing a small bridge and it is definitely worth a stop here. Especially lovely are the food establishments that face out onto the lake itself.
Lake Chiemsee - Day 8 to 12
Dined at Schlosswirtschaft at Wildenwart. A lovely, traditional countryside restaurant near Chiemsee - authentic German food in a gorgeous rural setting.
Had delicious pretzels from Cafe Obermaier in Bernau
E-biked all around the Lake Chiemsee. A full-day 58km loop with scenic stops - a great way to explore the area.
Day trip out to Eisriesenwelt Ice Caves (Austria). I can’t do justice to just how otherworldly and spectacular these are, and it’s an uncanny experience to be in 25°C on the outside, dropping almost immediately to below freezing once you enter, even in July. Once inside, its a rather spellbinding vision of nature’s own ‘ice sculpture’ with huge mystical caverns of icicles, ice falls and ice shelves
Herrenchiemsee. Took the ferry to the island to visit King Ludwig’s residence - regal, whimsical, and beautifully set on the lake.
Took a day trip out to The Eagles Nest (Kehlsteinhaus in German) in Berchtesgaden. This site was a symbol of power of the Nazi regime; decisions were made at the Eagle’s Nest and I believe it was a retreat option for Nazi leadership where they could hole up as it was very hard to access. The building stands perched over a sheer rock wall and to facilitate construction, a road was cut into the mountain through previously impassable terrain. We really enjoyed the visit, and there is a challenging scramble around the mountain at the top. We felt the controversial historical significance was handled humbly and with due remorse and chagrin for what it represents. To quote their website:
“Today however it still offers a magnificent and unique view of the surrounding countryside and also the opportunity to remember and learn about the inhuman dictatorship it served.”
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
I would sum up the best of German food culture as Cakes, Bakes and Beer. It is no lie to say that we had pretzels every single day of our trip, and I don’t think we had a bad one. They are sold in every bakery, in every town and village, and I have never tasted any better. Cakes generally were also some of the best I have ever had - easily rivalling more famous baking destinations like Paris or Copenhagen. Beer choices and quality were also superlative. These are the tastes of Germany for us, and it is well worth going to experience them.
Generally speaking, while we had good food during our trip, hot meals served for lunch or dinner tended towards hearty traditional grub made up of a potato option, some meat, and a sauce. Not necessarily the wildest or most inspiring of options, but tasty, filling and comforting nonetheless
Lessons Learnt for me
Prioritise location when choosing accommodation. On this trip, staying too far from the places we wanted to visit meant spending excessive time driving each day. I’ve realised that for city breaks especially, being within walking distance of the centre adds huge value — it allows for spontaneous outings, easy access to meals, and a more relaxed, immersive experience.
Touring with stops of 3–5 nights work well for an active pace; going longer or adding more stops can feel too hectic. Next time, I’ll plan fewer moves and choose accommodation that allows us to stay put for a few days — ideally within walking distance of key sights or no more than a 20-minute drive. That way, we can park the car and enjoy a more relaxed rhythm, with time to explore spontaneously and soak up the local atmosphere.
Other July itineraries
