Jersey - a long weekend in Spring
My travel itinerary for 3 nights in Jersey, Channel Islands. Walking, history and dining.
Itinerary At A Glance
3 night independent itinerary for Jersey, part of the Channel Islands, off the south coast of England
Based on either flying in and out of Jersey from Leeds, or Liverpool
Highlights include gastropub dining on English-French fusion fare, pick-your-own pearl for jewellery, Jersey War Tunnels and craggy coastal walks.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and hiking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why Jersey?
Elegant.
Teensy.
Historic.
It does rather pack a punch in terms of interesting things to do and see over a long weekend.
Much of it’s interest rests on the 5-year long German occupation, indeed the only part of the British territory under occupation during WWII, and theremnants and historical sites that stand testament to this cultural oddity are now visitor attractions.
As well as this though, there are plenty of beaches, coves and coastal paths for wandering, some excellent restaurants, and loads of trips and activities on the sea, which is always in easy reach no matter where you stay on the island.
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
What do people expect from Jersey?! Wealth and the remnants of war?? We got that. Some of the property is knock-your-socks-off-stunning, and there are leavings of occupation kind of everywhere.
I think what exceeded expectations though, was how picturesque it is. Tiny little valleys nestled in leafy woods that suddenly give out onto a view of the sea. Turquoise blue coves (the picture above is snapped on my phone with no filter). Ancient towers on the horizon. Harbourside restaurants.
The hotel was excellent, the walking was lovely, and the weather put on a very very good show, with blue skies, warm sun and a light breeze. Late May is a lovely time to visit.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
3 days was just right. There isn’t endless amounts of stuff to do on the island, and it could become a bit same-y in my view. The one thing I wished we had seen was The Celtic Hoard at la Hougue Bie.
Would I recommend it? Would I make another visit?
Can definitely recommend it, though for us personally, one trip is likely enough. Maybe we’ll go back in another 10 years.
WHEN
Late May
The last week in May is a school holiday, so things book up quickly.
We got warm (not hot) the whole time. May be changeable.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 05:14am to 5:09am
Sunset: 20:58pm to 21:04pm
16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Fly direct from Leeds to Jersey with Jet2, or direct from Liverpool to Jersey with Easyjet
The flight schedule is more restrictive from Leeds Bradford, with flights only on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, whereas flights from Liverpool are daily.
ACCOMMODATION
Greenhills Country House Hotel
An excellent hotel - peacful, elegant and relaxed.
Being such a tiny island, and a popular one, accommodation choices are somewhat limited and what there is books up very very quickly. This needs to be booked very well ahead of time.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Arrive; settle in.
Dinner: at the hotel
Day 2
Experience: Booked Pick-A-Pearl experience at Jersey Pearl - chose, and graded pearls for jewellery.
Play: Roccos Crazy Golf in St Ouen’s Bay. Open 9am – 5pm everyday (not bookable)
Walk: Took in one of the coastal path walks up near Plémont and the ruins of 14c Grosnez Castle
Dinner: Ate at Cheffins at Beaumont Inn
Day 3
Jersey War Tunnels: Book a ticket for an understanding of the island under German Occupation, the only part of the British Isles occupied during World War II
Walk: Took a walk on the east coast, taking in St Catherines, Archirondel and Mont Orgueil Castle
Ice Cream: stop at The Botanic Gardens at Samarès Manor
Dinner: Booked for relaxed dinner at The Old Court House Inn, in St Aubin’s - relaxed, yet polished pub dining, with an alfresco option. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Day 4
Breakfast
Morning in St Helier: See the Occupation Tapestry at the Maritime Museum in St Helier (12 panels, woven by islanders commemorating liberation from 5 years of Nazi rule)
Travel home
Ideas for another visit
-
Visit ‘Searching for Jersey’s Celts’ exhibition at La Hougue Bie, home of Le Câtillon II – the world’s largest Celtic hoard ever found, including thousands of coins and several pieces of jewellery. The site is also home to a neolithic village.
Tour St Catherine’s Bunker - 2 hour tour of WWII German fortification and tunnel complex.
Become a Distiller for the Day at The Gin Lab, La Côte Distillery in St Helier
Sunset tours aboard Jersey Duchess - 2 hour tour, departing from St Helier
See St Helier as it may have been in the early 1800’s at 16 New Street Georgian House Museum - Open Wed, Thu & Fri, 10am to 4pm
Visit Elizabeth Castle, just off the coast in St Helier
-
Feast on Gorey Pier, overlooking Mont Orgueil Castle. Open Tues lunch to Sunday lunch
Book at gastropub Bass & Lobster, in Gorey.
Book for Samphire Brasserie in St Helier - relaxed, yet polished fine dining, with alfresco and private dining options. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Tues to Sat. Closed Sunday & Monday.
Other Short Itineraries
Alnmouth, Northumberland Coast - a weekend in late Summer
My travel journal for a short, late summer break in Alnmouth. Sand and castles.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Alnmouth and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in early September
Highlights include morning beach walk, hike around Bamburgh Castle and fish lunch at The Potted Lobster
Based on a group travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Alnmouth caught my eye as a quiet corner of Northumberland — easy to reach from Yorkshire, yet far enough to feel like an escape. It’s known for its sweeping beaches and dramatic skies, but the cold North Sea keeps the crowds away, making it feel like a secret.
I’d heard about a standout fish restaurant in Bamburgh (The Potted Lobster), which tipped the balance in favour of this stretch of coast. The idea was set: build an itinerary around seasonal eating, coastal walking, and the kind of scenery that lingers.
Honest verdict
Does it live up to hype or expectations?
I would say it exceeded our expectations in every way. What a gorgeous weekend.
Firstly, the quality of the beaches is just outstanding. Wide, golden powdery sand, and quiet. They are such sterling examples, it’s hard to believe how quiet they are. We personally enjoy beaches for the views (rather than the swimming orthe sunbathing), and these beaches are made for walks and running, and took our breath away as we happened upon one during a coastal walk.
Secondly, there is so much preserved history here. The villages along the coast are out of the way of heavy traffic, so they benefit from not being a throughway to anywhere else - you have to be going there to stumble upon one of these villages. This remoteness has probably protected them from rampant overtouristing or modernisation. Alnmouth was like walking back in time; an idyllic little high street full of character and clearly recently rejuvenated to make the most of its historic charms for the modern traveller.
From start to finish, thoroughly recommended.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely.
2 nights in Alnmouth felt correct for us, perhaps up to 3 nights would work. The charms of this massive county are rather spread out, from the AONB coastline in the east, to Kielder Water and Dark Sky Park in the middle, to Hadrian’s Wall on the northern border, but this, in fact, makes it an ideal place for short 2-night trips to sample a little of Northumberland each and every time.
We travelled as a family group, and had just enough going on to give structure to the trip without overwhelming us. Perhaps better would have been to do a group activity on the Saturday afternoon, with dinner at The Potted Lobster rather than lunch.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit Northumberland again, though would focus on another area.
WHEN
Early September
The start of the shoulder season. Best time for sunsets.
We experienced a hot tail to summer, with 27C sunny. Expect anything from hot to cool and rainy.
LIGHT
Moderate daylight
Sunrise: 06:12am
Sunset: 19:59pm
14 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car
Drive from Leeds takes about 2.5 hours
ACCOMMODATION
The Whittling House, Pub with Rooms
situated on a gorgeous little street running down to the beach
luxury and modern
well suited for a couple
slightly tricky parking
excellent on-site restaurant
a touch noisy due to it being a pub
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the evening, arrive and settle in at The Whittling House, Alnmouth
Dinner: at the Whittling House
Day 2 - Saturday
Lunch: The Potted Lobster, Bamburgh. Top notch fish restaurant
Hike: Walking loop around Bamburgh Castle & town, 14km
Dinner: The Joiners Arms
Day 3 - Sunday
Morning beach walk: there is a gorgeous stretch of golden sandy beach right at the bottom of the high street in Alnmouth. Late summer sees a hazy and fresh start to the morning, perfect for a morning beach stroll
Drive home
Back-up plans for rainy days
Visit inside of Bamburgh Castle - still fully functioning and one of the most imposing castles on the British Isles
Other Short UK Itineraries
A Summer drive-and-ride through Belgium & Northern France
Itinerary journal of my summer tour through the Belgian Ardennes and Northern France. Bikes very much mandatory.
Itinerary At A Glance
14 night independent touring itinerary for Belgium and France, taking a coast-to-coast route starting in Rotterdam, finishing in Cherbourg
Based on driving from Leeds, with bikes, using ferry transport from Hull to Rotterdam, back into the UK from Cherbourg
Highlights include Belgian beer, a cycle ride through water, visiting the ghostly remains of an F1 race track from the 1960s, cycling the river-strewn landscape of the Loire Valley, picnic at Chateau de L’Islette, The Bayeaux Tapestry, and D-Day museum at Arromanches-les-Bains.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
This was our very first trip taking our car from Leeds across into Europe, and so, to make this introductory experience as easy as possible, we chose to make the driving the least onerous we could by not venturing too far into the continent.
Northern Europe is a lovely place to spend the summer; verdant, warm, buzzing with the life of festivals and outdoorsing often denied to us in the colder, wetter months. Throughout this region, there is a palpable excitement that summer is here, and a determinedness to enjoy it while we can.
We chose Wallonia for its forested hills, quiet roads, and brewing heritage. Reims offered a counterpoint — not for champagne, but for the haunting remains of a forgotten F1 circuit. The Loire Valley is the land of river and chateaux. The riding promised was easy, quiet, and punctuated with ample towns, villages, markets, chateaux, vineyards and culture. Normandy, with its layered history and coastal charm, rounded out the journey with something a little more serious - warttime history and medieval tapestry.
Every location on this trip offered excellent biking opportunities - whether that’s leisurely pootles or long-distance leg-burners - as well as discovery, and rest. A kind of slow travel that lets the landscape unfold at the speed of a bike.
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
One of the very best holidays we have ever taken, ever. I don’t think it is possible for France to disappoint, such is the density of loveliness, culture and history, but Belgium was an unexpected surprise, totally exceeding our expectations in every way.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Perfectly. Not too much driving, but enough to cover some real distance between place to place. Travelling in the car this way, we also got to see parts of Holland, Belgium and France that we would probably never visit if it meant making a dedicated holiday there.
Would I make another visit?
Certainly - with the exception of Champagne region. While we had a good time there, this was my least favourite spot, but Belgium, Loire Valley and Normandy held so much appeal, with many more options for a visit than we could fit into this trip.
WHEN
July
Very warm and sunny was what we experienced for the full two weeks, though I was prepared for some occasional overcast or rainy days which failed to come.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 06:01am to 06:33am
Sunset: 22:10pm to 21:42pm
15-16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Ferry from Hull into Rotterdam, and out of Cherbourg into Poole
We obviously took our car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as road bikes attached with a carrier.
ROUTE & STOPS
Drive 1,407 km, 16 hours, over 14 days
Ferry Hull into Rotterdam (overnight crossing); drive to Belgian Ardennes for a 3 night stay; stop off at Delft for breakfast and Genk for Ride Thru The Water
Drive from Belgian Ardennes to Reims (Champagne region) for a 2 night stay
Drive from Reims to Loire Valley for a 5 night stay; stop off at Montargis along the way
Drive from Loire Valley to Caen; stop off at Le Mans along the way
Ferry Cherbourg to Poole; drive back to Yorkshire
Image of full route with all stops
ACCOMMODATION
Reims
Centrally located, clean, modern, large apartment. Only issue was a lack of parking and note that Reims operates a Low Emission Zone, for which you need to have a permit before you arrive in France.
Loire Valley
Idyllic. Large kitchen, private outdoor area, ample space for two, fairly rurally located in quick and easy access to the quiet country lanes perfect for road cycling with space in the hallway for bikes. Recommended.
near Caen
Garage-turned-holiday let, this was a lovely little compact space in a residential village on the outskirts of Caen, with a bakery and pizza restaurant in town. Ideal for cycling, with space in the hallway for bikes. Recommended.
SCHEDULE
Canals in Delft
Day 1 - Drive to Wallonia, with stop-offs in Delft and Genk
Had breakfast in Delft - it was glorious. To my mind, nowhere on earth does ‘cute town’ like the Dutch, and Delft is no exception. Sat by the canal on a warm Monday morning, enjoying Roze koek and Gevulde koek alongside a good coffee, and watched the town come gently to life.
Stopped off in Genk to Ride-Thru-The-Water and made use of the excellent Points-Noeuds system
Durbuy, and the surrounding countryside
Day 1 to 4 - Wallonia
3 nights
Cycled around the Belgian Ardennes, using Visit Wallonia for downloadable .gpx routes.
Dined at miniature little bistro, Ardelle, in Rochefort
Durbuy is a fantastic destination for a bike ride, surrounded by open farmlands with paved cycle routes snaking through
RIDING IN WALLONIA
Wallonia offers varied terrain. The southern areas near the Ardennes are steep and challenging — great for experienced cyclists looking for serious climbs. In contrast, the northern part near the Flanders border is more moderately hilly and better suited to relaxed touring.
This region is ideal for touring: quiet country roads, manageable gradients, and plenty of small towns and villages to stop in.
We found the riding here to be well-balanced and it’s a great region for combining cycling with other interests like food, beer, and local crafts, especially if you plan your routes to include stops or destination activities.
Day 5 - Drive between Belgian Ardennes & Reims
About 165km, 2hrs driving
Stocked up on beer before we left Belgium.
Reim-Gueux race track, former pitlane
Day 5 to 7 - Reims
2 nights
Cycled from Reims out to the abandoned Formula 1 circuit, Reims-Gueux, whose orginal structures including the grandstands, pit buildings and timing tower, still stand today and are preserved as historical landmarks and maintained by local enthusiasts. Eerie and magical, a perfect destination for a road ride before making our way to the more known pastoral landscapes of the Champagne villages and then routing back into Reims
Day 7 - Drive between Reims & Loire Valley
About 480km, 5hr 30mins driving
To break up the long drive, we stopped at Montargis for coffee, cake and a leg stretch. This isn’t a place to go out of your way to visit, but was a decently cute town with plenty of life and options for coffee and baked goods.
Loire Valley scenery
Day 7 to 12 - Loire Valley
5 nights
Picnic’d with live music at Chateau de L'Islette - a highlight of the stay. This place is fairytale stuff, with the River Indre meandering through the grounds, flanked by bridges, lawns and billowing flora. On Fridays and Saturdays throughout July and August, you can buy tickets for their open air picnic with live music; just turn up with your loved ones, blankets, food and drink to enjoy the evening.
RIDING IN THE LOIRE VALLEY
The Loire is ideal for very relaxed, scenic riding. Even beginners and very occasional cyclists will not struggle here. The terrain is mostly flat, with quiet roads and well-marked cycle routes that wind through vineyards, riverside paths, and historic towns. It’s perfect for multi-day touring with cultural stops — châteaux, markets, and wine tastings are never far off. Some of our rides includes:
62km ride taking in Azay-le-Rideau, Langeais and Villandry - Langeais is a picturesque town right on the banks of the Loire and is well worth a stop. There is a market on a Sunday morning that is worth making your destination.
57 km ride taking in Loches, Montrésor and Chedigny - the ‘village-garden’ of Chedigny is a particularly worthwhile waypoint for a road ride.
54km ride to see Rivarennes……funny place this, bit of a ghost town really, clinging deperately to the heritage craft of dried pears.
Day 12 - Drive between Loire Valley & Caen
About 270km, 2hr 45mins driving
We made sure to route through Le Mans to drive the Mulsanne Straight, Inidianapolis and Arnage Corners (all of which is public road when not on a race day).
The Bayeux Tapestry exhibit
Day 12 to 14 - near Caen
Visited Bayeux Tapestry - for me, the absolute highlight of our trip. It is hard to believe this article of history is 1000 years old. It is vast and precious and magical, exhibited wonderfully well and with a very useful audio guide that made me feel like I was in a fantasy novel. Unlike most tourist destinations of this repute, we waited hardly any time to buy tickets and enter, and as an added bonus, Bayeux the town is also utterly adorable - well worth a patisserie stop. We did so at La Pâtisserie de Guillaume.
Visited the D-Day Museum at Arromanches-les-Bains - to tell the tale of Operation Overlord, and in particular, how Allied Forces built and erected a ‘floating port’ off the coast of Arromanches-les-Bains to faciltate the D-Day landings and ongoing supply of men, supplies and equipment for the re-taking of France.
RIDING IN NORMANDY
The riding in Normandy isn’t especially challenging, but it’s not effortless either — the terrain is mostly flat, which means you’re pedalling constantly. Roads are often narrow, with stone walls close to the edge, and the sky tends to hang low and slate-grey. Every so often, the landscape opens up and you catch a glimpse of the sea. It’s steady, atmospheric riding. Here are some routes we took:
Cycled to the Merville Gun Battery through Pegasus Bridge - historically important, Pegasus Bridge was the first bridge to be liberated following D-Day landings on June 6th 1944
Day 15 - Drive between Caen & Cherbourg
About 130km, 1hr 30mins driving
Ferry from Cherbourg back to Poole, then drive back to Yorkshire
Ideas for another visit
-
Stay near Namur
Cycle Wallonia’s UNESCO route
-
Stay near the tiny city of Châteauroux
Visit Musée du Textile et de la Mode (Museum of Textiles & Fashion) in Cholet
Visit Musée de la Chemiserie et de l'Élégance Masculine (Shirt-making and Male Elegance Museum) in the Loire Valley features a textile garden with plants used for textile fibers, dyes, and other related processes
-
Visit Dieppe market, voted best in France in 2020
Take a factory-workshop tour of Bohin, last surviving pin and needle manufacturer in France, located in the Orne department in Normandy
Visit Les Jardins d’Étretat - Clinging close to the cliff, the gardens at Etretat are a poetic mix of landscape and sculpture known as “land-art.”
Visit The Sculpture Garden at the Château de Bois-Guilbert
Dine at Le Goéland 1951, a seasonal restaurant and bar (open during the high season) in a converted bunker from the war on the edge of a peninsula with breath taking views on the sea.
From spring to autumn along the sea front at Le Havre there’s a host of pop-up bars and restaurants, some of which have a view right on the sea.
Swim in the sea water swimming pool, plage du Plat Gousset in Granville
Swim in the Bains des Docks in Le Havre, designed by reputed French architect Jean Nouvel - this 5000 square metre aquatic centre comprises 12 pools, including a 50 x 21 metre outdoor pool, several leisure pools, a sauna, steam room, spa and fitness room.
Dieppe’s outdoor swimming pool offers views of castle and limestone cliffs
Other itineraries & food for France
Cotswolds for William Morris - a weekend in high Summer
A friend and I visited Kelmscott Manor in The Cotswolds. Where else we stayed and ate.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Kelmscott Manor and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in early June
Highlights include a visit to William Morris’ summer home, Kelmscott Manor, a country walk to Lechlade, and dinner at Thyme
Based on a pair of friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Visiting the Cotswolds? Pioneering.
William Morris? Would never have thought……….
Everyone knows the Cotswolds — it’s one of the UK’s most sought-after destinations. But that popularity can be a double-edged sword: high-season prices, packed villages, and the risk of a trip that feels more generic than special. I wanted to see if it was possible to experience the Cotswolds differently.
The idea started with Kelmscott. I’d never thought much about William Morris, but a friend mentioned it, and it piqued my interest. I began to dig into the area’s links to traditional English craft and design, and it felt like a good fit for a short, thoughtful trip.
I planned a two-night stay with a simple itinerary: Kelmscott, a countryside walk, and dinner — all easy to do without a car. We stayed at a pub with a restaurant, which made the logistics smooth and gave us a cosy base. I skipped the more obvious hotspots and Instagram-famous villages, aiming instead for a quieter, more grounded experience about English heritage.
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
When it comes to these kinds of places, I think, there can be a hefty dose of disappointment when you get there as it is thronged to the rafters with tourists and you had to pay through the nose to stay there in high summer. Thankfully, this wasn’t our experience on this trip. We found Kelmscott to be alive with activity but not crowded, and there was nothing at all that we had to queue for. Thyme, similarly, wasn’t overdone nor packed with people trying to fill an Instagram reel.
If you have any interest at all in traditional England, and perhaps learning a little more about one of our most important and beloved artists, thinkers and businessmen, I can highly recommend a trip to Kelmscott.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely. We travelled as a pair of friends, and the three booked activties on Saturday - Kelmscott, walk, then dinner - was a perfect day of memories that we have regularly reminisced about since.
I think it would work equally well to stay a little further out and take a circular bike ride with Kelmscott as the destination.
Also, staying with the pub, with the benefit of a restaurant for dinner on the day of arrival and breakfast on the day of departure, made a 2 night stay very easy indeed.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit Cotswolds again, though would focus on another area.
WHEN
Early June
Probably the most beautiful month to visit England, in my view. Spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.
TRAVEL MEANS
Car
Drive from Leeds takes about 2.5 hours
ACCOMMODATION
The Plough Inn, Pub with Rooms
literally a short walk to Kelmscott Manor
well suited for a pair of friends
slightly tricky parking
a touch noisy due to it being a pub
Kennet, 1883, By William Morris - Photo by Birmingham Museums Trust on Unsplash
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the evening, arrive and settle in
Dinner: at The Plough Inn
Day 2 - Saturday
Kelmscott Manor & Gardens: Seeing up close and personal, the spot where William Morris (and his wife and some other artist hangers-on) would spend summer. The house is filled with remnants of his artistry, as well as that of his wife, Jane, and their life of collecting and making of beautiful things. The garden is also an absolute delight.
Walk: Walking loop from Kelmscott to Lechlade and back, 10km
Dinner & Art: Thyme - couldn’t recommend this place highly enough. The food was superb, as was the service, and the open dining room-kitchen-lounge area, which I believe was a converted barn, contributed greatly to the experience. Thoroughly modern and luxurious. We were also allowed a private view of the art exhibition that was on in the neighbouring space.
Day 3 - Sunday
Breakfast at The Plough Inn
Drive home
Sewing & Wearing
Other Short UK Itineraries
Pembrokeshire in Winter with mountain biking and boutique hotel
Itinerary journal of my winter break in Pembrokeshire. Biking, boutique hotel and Michelin food.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 day independent itinerary for Pembrokeshire in South Wales, based on driving from Leeds, in February
Highlights include mountain biking, a trip to St Davids, winter hike with mysterious standing stones, and staying at Grove of Narberth with 4 AA rosette fine-dining
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
We’d never been to Pembrokeshire, and winter felt like the right time to explore somewhere new without the crowds. Most of the UK stays open year-round, even if a few attractions close — so we decided to chance our arm and see what this corner of Wales had to offer off-season.
It was an anniversary trip, so we treated ourselves to a luxury boutique hotel stay — made sweeter by off-peak prices.
The only thing we couldn’t plan, was the weather. All we dared hope for was dry………..we got our wish.
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday?
We definitely enjoyed this trip - a great off-season alternative for visiting South Wales which is much more typically a summertime destination. The UK actually experiences a very mild winter, with temperatures below zero a fairly uncommon ocurrence, so if you can dress accordingly, many of the outdoor exploring options like hiking and biking remain viable activities even in our coldest months. This is what I was banking on for this trip, and it came good.
Does the place live up to expectations?
Yes and no. The hotel was absolutely outstanding - cannot recommend enough. The Pembrokshire region though, was not my favourite place we have visited in the UK , and I do think we have more beautiful and more picturesque countryside, with a greater variety of things to do. In Wales itself, the North has much more dramatic landscapes and other spots offer better mountain biking. None of this is to say it isn’t worth a visit, but I would say for me, other places hold more appeal.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely - it was the perfect blend of active and restful, mucky and refined, and a great option for the off-season. We were lucky with the weather, as we could have gotten very cold and snowy conditions, but also had back-up options in case that happened.
Would I make another visit?
As much as this was a great trip, particularly considering the fact that it was mid-winter, I can’t personally see myself returning to this part of Wales again; other parts of Wales have more dramatic scenery and more history that I would rather visit instead.
WHEN
February
This is very much off-season for February, so quiet, and many of the typical tourist attracttions may be closed over the winter. An ideal time to enjoy the more local-focused activities and hangouts.
We got cold, dry and cloudy. May be freezing with snow.
LIGHT
Short-ish days
Sunrise: 07:39am
Sunset: 17:28pm
10 hours of daylight
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed at Grove of Narberth
This place was marvellous - very possibly the best hotel we have ever stayed in. Boutique, welcoming, incredibly welcoming and stylish decor, and outstanding service with a superlative restaurant on site. Highly highly recommended.
TRAVEL MEANS
Car & Bike
Driving from Yorkshire to Pembrokeshire, with an overnight rest-stop in Snowdonia on the way down. About 6 hours each way.
Mountain Bike for activities whilst there.
SCHEDULE
DAY 1 - Wednesday
Drove Leeds to Coed y Brenin Trail Centre for a half-day mountain biking
Overnight in George III Pub with Rooms
DAY 2 - Thursday
Drove along the Coastal Way from Snowdonia to Narberth
Rest stop in Cardigan at Crwst: very enjoyable visit to this fantastic spot for breakfast, brunch or coffee. Open, industrial, proper bakery - top notch
Walk: Pentre Ifan walking circular - 6.85km
Check-in & Dinner at Grove of Narberth
DAY 3 - Friday
Bike ride: Local route out from Grove of Narberth
Visit St Davids: holder of the title “smallest city in the United Kingdom by population and urban area.” This place is truly teensy, more like a village
Fish & Chip dinner: The Shed, Porthgain. You would never happen upon this place - beautifully positioned at the mouth of a tiny inlet that would once have been a fishing community. Informal, local, buzzing. Recommended
DAY 4 - Saturday
Bike ride: red route at Llys-y-frân reservoir
Dinner: Fernery Restaurant at Grove of Narberth, holder of 4 AA Rosettes. Absolutely outstanding from start to finish.
DAY 5 - Sunday
Drove home
Back-up plans for rainy days
Pembroke Castle (open 10am to 4pm during winter)
National Trust Tudor Merchant's House in Tenby
See the Last Invasion Tapestry at Fishguard Library
See an art exhibition at Oriel Y Parc Landscape Gallery & Visitor Centre
Plans for another trip
Bwlch Nant yr Arian Forest Visitor Centre (touted as one of the most beautiful trail centres in Wales, with a Red Kite feeding centre on site)
Other Countryside Itineraries
Norfolk - Summer riding
Itinerary for a short weekend cycling break near the North Norfolk Coast.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Holt and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in mid-August
Highlights include a boutique hotel stay, long road ride around North Norfolk, and fish and chips at the seaside
Based on a couple travelling
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Outstanding.
I would hear people announce how flat Norfolk, and while that might be true, before I visited, it led me to believe flat meant boring - not so. The landscape, the villages, the gardens………it felt like a view was peeking out around every corner and it was oh, so, quiet.
A spectacular introduction to Norfolk, leaving us eager for more.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Yes….and no, in that we could easily have stayed longer (there is enough to do), and this was quite a long drive for just 2 nights. A cycling weekend is perfectly perfectly suited for Norfolk though; a framework I would look to replicate again.
Would I make another visit?
Definitely; even this same area around Holt would warrant another trip for us.
WHEN
August
We got spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.
Can be changeable.
TRAVEL MEANS
Car + Road bike
Drive from Leeds takes about 4 hours
ACCOMMODATION
The Harper, Hotel
boutique, luxury
intimate
fantastic restaurant
impeccable, yet thoroughly modern service
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the morning, settle in
Dinner: At The Harper
Day 2 - Saturday
Ride: Long road-ride loop around Holt, 73km (gpx download here)
Coffee & Cake Stop: Heydon Village Tea Rooms - absolutely delightful, in a pictureque village setting
Fish & Chip Supper at the Seaside: French’s, Wells-next-the-Sea - be prepared for a very, very long queue!
Day 3 - Sunday
Spa & Sauna morning: The Harper allows you to pre-book the pool, hot tub and sauna on an exclusive use basis for 30-minute sessions
Breakfast at the hotel
Drive home
Ideas for another trip
-
Visit Sandringham during the winter, for its annual light trail ‘Luminate Sandringham’
Tour The Boards National Park on a bike - 125 miles of navigable waterways – more than Amsterdam or Venice. The Broads was originally dug out in medieval times to provide peat for fuel. In the 14th century, these peat diggings flooded, creating the beautiful waterways we see today.
Visit Norwich - best-preserved medieval city in England (the Industrial Revolution left it unscathed because of a lack of fast-running water), largest permanent covered market in Europe, only city within a British National Park, hosts Europe’s best-protected chalk river and it was England’s first City of Literature.
Visit Norwich Castle Museum (undergoing a major renovation project, set to re-open 2025)
See a show at Cromer’s end-of-pier theatre
See Grey seal pups at Blakeney Point during the winter, when the mums come ashore to have their young
See red deer on the Holkham Estate in the winter
-
Stay at The Victoria Hotel on the Holkham Estate (accepts dogs)
Stay at The Wiveton Bell (accepts dogs)
-
Dine at Meadowsweet in Holt
Other Itineraries for Exploring with Bikes
Summer walking on the Suffolk Coast
My itinerary journal for a short weekend walking break on the Suffolk Coast, to catchup with a dear friend.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Walberswick and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in mid-July
Highlights include a walk around the Suffolk & Essex Coast & Heaths National Landscape starting in Walberswick
Based on a pair of friends travelling, for a short catch-up trip
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Suffolk is perhaps unseen, as a holiday destination. It doesn’t have the Royal connection as Norfolk does, and for those of us in the North, it’s just that bit further away.
It is though, worth the trip. It is worth it for the quiet, for the history, and for the golden sandy coast.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely. This is a short shot-in-the-arm kind of trip, like an extended day out with a pal, with the walk offering great opportunity for a long catch up and some gentle exercise combined. I think it would work equally well for a biking stay, especially since the Suffolk countryside is flat without being boring.
Also, staying in a guesthouse, with the benefit of a breakfast, made a 2 night stay very easy indeed.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit Suffolk again, though would focus on another area.
WHEN
Mid July
Spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.
LIGHT & WEATHER
Long days, likely warm (may be hot)
Sunrise: 04:36am to 5:13am
Sunset: 21:18pm to 20:46pm
17 hours of daylight
ACCOMMODATION
Corner Farm, Guesthouse
luxury and modern
well suited for a pair of friends
fantastic breakfast, with the best granola I have ever had (the owner kindly provided the recipe!)
absolutely silent
TRAVEL MEANS
Car
Drive from Leeds takes about 4 hours
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the afternoon, collect groceries and settle in
Dinner: BBQ at our guesthouse
Day 2 - Saturday
Walk: Long walking loop around Walberswick, 13km (gpx download here)
Dinner: The Anchor, Walberswick - friendly, relaxed, casual
Day 3 - Sunday
Breakfast at the guesthouse
Drive home
Ideas for another trip
Dine or event at Suffolk Food Hall, Ipswich
Visit Kentwell Hall, one of the finest moated Tudor Houses in England and regular scene for history re-creation events
Bike ride around Suffolks’ Wool Towns - Lanvenham, Clare, Kersey, Long Melford
Visit Woodbridge on the River Deben
Other July Itineraries
Guernsey in Spring - walking on a tiny island
My planned itinerary for spending 4 springtime days in Guernsey, Channel Islands. Days spent walking and picnicking, nights spent in a treehouse hotel.
Why Guernsey?
The Bailiwick of Guernsey is technically a collection of islands that includes the island of Guernsey plus nearby islands of Sark, Alderney, Jethou, Brecqhou and Herm.
Guernsey itself is a very very small island - just 65 sq. km. Comparing this to other islands: it is 7 times smaller than Ibiza, and 6 times smaller than Barbados. Comparing it to an English county: Cornwall is 55 times larger than Guernsey. Comparing this to cities in the UK, it is about the same size as Derby; a very very small British city indeed. Apparently, walking around the entirety of the Guernsey Coastal path is 64km which can be done at a very leisurely pace over the course of 4 days. So that sizes the prize a little.
Aside from its diminuitiveness, Guernsey is known for dramatic coastlines, lots of beaches, being a tax haven, being occupied by the Nazis during the Second World War and also being the home of Victor Hugo when in exile from France. The culture is neither British nor French, and both at the same time.
The attraction of Guernsey for the traveller is a little escapism, activities on the water and some easygoing outdoor activity like walking or leisure cycling to take in the sea views, pretty coves and fortress remnants. You come here to slow down, relax and experience island life.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Guernsey, part of the Channel Islands, off the south coast of England
Based on either flying in and out of Guernsey from Leeds, or East Midlands
Highlights include alfresco dining on English-French fusion fare, walking parts of the Coastal Path, a day trip out to Jersey to visit the War Tunnels and hiking with a picnic
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and hiking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
April or May
Typically dry with long daylight hours and mild pleasant weather
ACCOMMODATION
Being such a tiny island, and a popular one, accommodation choices are somewhat limited and what there is books up very very quickly. This needs to be booked very well ahead of time.
In order of preference for me:
Fermain Valley Hotel Treehouses (they have a yoga space in this hotel)
The Farmhouse Hotel and Restaurant
Fermain Tower **While very cool, this is also located in a small car park, so not quite the prettiest outdoor space. This is incredibly popular, easily with a year-long list of bookings already scheduled.
TRAVEL MEANS
Fly direct from Leeds to Guernsey or direct from East Midlands to Guernsey with Aurigny
The flight schedule is more restrictive from Leeds Bradford, with flights only on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays, whereas flights from East Midlands are 4 times a week.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Arrive; settle in.
Day 2
Breakfast: Rooftop Cafe at Creasey’s, in St Peter Port
Hike with a Picnic: Take one of these harder hiking routes
Day 3
Hike: Take one of these routes
Dinner: Book at hotel gastropub Les Douvres, in St Martin’s - dinner and live music (Friday nights only)
Day 4
Day trip to Jersey: Take the foot ferry, have breakfast in St Helier at La Bouche in Central Market
Jersey War Tunnels: Book a ticket for an understanding of the island under German Occupation, the only part of the British Isles occupied during World War II
Day 5
Breakfast
Travel home: try to arrange return travel to leave in the morning
Other UK-based Itineraries
Småland, Sweden: a leisure cycling travel itinerary
Travelling in summer, my imagined itinerary for 7 nights in Smaland, Sweden. Cycling amid lakes, islands, country lanes, and deep forests.
Why Småland?
Research for this trip started with a friend, who ran an ultra-marathon around the island archipelago of Stockholm, extolling the virtues and beauties of this region. So I set a-looking for a possible trip to Sweden.
Turns out, the archipelago around Stockholm is famed for its beautiful maze of waterways and islands, peppered with second homes and cabins owned by city residents in pretty coastal towns for weekend trips and outdoor activities. While stunning, the many islands often means travel by boat and my other half gets badly seasick so I started to rule it out……………but Sweden looked too much like the exact kind of place I like to holiday, so I continued doggedly researching.
Gothenburg, Värmland, Lake Vänern, Öland………on and on I went, looking at places to stay and things to do, trying to spot the one that just seemed to tick all our boxes……….until a chance stumble had me in Småland and that set my tail wagging.
It is a land of deep forests, sparkling lakes and teensy cities punching above their weight with foodie and cultural scenes to rival that of larger urban centres. There are proper MTB facilities at various trail centres around the region. Other fun facts include that IKEA grew from being a small mail order company in the forests of Småland to the global phenomenon it is now, and between Växjö and Kalmar on the coast is the famed ‘Kingdom of Crystal’ - a string of glass-blowing communities reinvigorated, revitalised and turned into a unique tourist destination. Many describe this place as all of Sweden in miniature.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 night independent itinerary for Småland in southern Sweden
Based on flying in and out of Gothenburg from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include biking the countryside, outdoor forest dining, experiencing the traditions of the glassblowing villages and some art locations celebrating the Swede’s famed sensitivity to great design
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
June or July
For the driest, warmest and lightest months, but I would still plan for mixed weather.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds into Gothenburg, changing in Amsterdam
This trip will also require car hire for the entirety of the trip, along with bike hire which is capable of handling gravel surfaces
ACCOMMODATION
To make the most of the weather, the views and the outdoorsy nature of this trip, a traditional Swedish summer house - ferienhaus - would be my top pick ideally with some outdoor space. Either Gränna, Jönköping, or the stretch of land between them would make a good base. In order of preference:
Gorgeous and modern ferienhaus on the edge of a small lake between Jönköping and Växjö
Apartment in a listed building in Gränna, overlooking Lake Vättern
Modern countryside ferienhaus between Jönköping and Växjö
Apartment on the Smålandsgården estate in Gränna
IMPORTANT NOTE FOR BOOKING! Summer accommodation in the Swedish countryside books up very very quickly - note that its is also very common for self-catering homes to only allow a minimum of a 1 week stay, and not uncommon for them to enforce a 2 week minimum stay. This is a holiday where you will need to plan well in advance and get booking.
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - arrive
Try to arrive in the morning
Day 2 - biking Visingsö Island on Lake Vättern and explore Gränna
In the morning. head to Visingsö Island to bike the 25 km island perimeter path which takes between 2 and 3 hours. Lush oak forests and farmland co-exist on Visingsö, and along the way are several possibilities for a picnic break. More info found here
Explore the town of Gränna in the afternoon and stay for dinner
Day 3 - Experience the Crystal Kingdom (Glasriket in Swedish)
The Glass Kingdom is a cluster of villages between the cities of Kalmar and Växjö, which has been the centre of the country’s world-renowned glassblowing community since 1742. There is the Kosta Boda Art Gallery, designed by Bruno Mathsson in the early 1950s. At the Glassworks in Målerås, you can have a go at glassmaking, wander the walking/biking path and, most excitingly, partake in a traditional ‘hot shop herring’ evening meal (hyttsill in Swedish). Hyttsill evenings date back to the days when the glassworks acted as a focal point for the local community – an after-hours meeting place for workers, hunters from the surrounding forest and, not least, wandering tramps. When the glassblowers go home for the day, long tables are set up in the glassworks and the chef fries salted herring in the cooling pipe – where earlier in the day, finished glassware has been slowly cooled down. He brings trays of crispy bacon and isterband sausages to the table. Jacket potatoes, genuine Småland ostkaka pudding. Glasses are filled with chilled beer from the basement… Soon, the singing creates a warm atmosphere in the smeltery
Day 4 - biking Åsnen National Park and dinner in Växjö
About 40 minutes south of Växjö, is the Åsnen National Park, the newest in Sweden. Spend the day cycling its lanes, forests and lakesides, using this helpful site for inspiration on routes
Have dinner in Växjö, whose culinary scene rivals that of any larger city. Five of its restaurants are featured in the White Guide (Scandinavia’s leading restaurant guide), and the hotel/restaurant PM & Vänner was awarded a Michelin star for its modern take on Småland cuisine.
Day 5 - long day ride loop from Jönköping to Bunn and back
90km round trip on quiet country roads, this loop apparently takes you through some of loveliest countryside, into the famed village of Bunn, and back into Jönköping. Budget for 6-7 hours on the bike with more info here.
Day 6 - foraging and forest dining
Make a booking at one Smaland’s Edible Country Tables using this guide for what to forage from the Sweden countryside
Day 7 - long day ride loop between along the southern edge of Lake Vättern
70km round trip through the apple orchards and country lanes between Jönköping and Gränna
Day 8 - final breakfast and head home
Have one final breakfast of coffee and kanelbulle (cinnamon bun)
Try to leave in the afternoon
Back-up plans for rainy days
Longest zipline in Europe at Little Rock Lake
Visit the IKEA Museum in Älmhult, on the central southern border of the region
Take an Elf Safari at Grönåsen Elk and Livestock Park
Visit Vandalorum Art & Design Museum in Varnamo (between Jönköping & Växjö)
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Isterband (pork, barley and potato sausage) with pickled beetroot and dill-stewed potatoes is a classic Småland dish.
Other Summer Stuff
The Swedish West Coast - a twin-centre itinerary with biking, hiking, sculpture and excellent baking
Travelling in early summer, how we enjoyed 12 nights on the West Coast of Sweden. Hiking, biking and outdoor dining all feature.
Why the Swedish West Coast?
The entirety of Sweden’s coastline is both vast and varied - there are rocky granite coasts, deep sand-dune backed beaches of fine golden sand, vast island archipelagos of islands, islets and skerries connected to the mainland by bridges or chain ferries, forests right up to the coast, high cliffs, even inland lakes the size of inland seas. Just off the coast there are deep forests and meandering lanes amid a patchwork of meadows and farms.
The West Coast of Sweden has Gothenburg (Sweden’s second largest city, and home of Volvo) as the major urban base, but outside of that there is plenty of nature, both wild and tamed, for outdoor exploring, either on two wheels or on two feet. This is the summer playground of many a-Swede but not often visited by folks from the UK, so naturally, I feel like a jammy bugger, excited to be discovering something so authentically Swedish.
We based ourselves in Halland, just south of Gothenburg. It’s beachy, breezy, and brilliant for bikes. Halmstad, the main town, kicks off Sweden’s first national cycle trail and has a laid-back, surfy vibe.
Head north and you hit Bohuslän, a dreamy stretch of smooth granite islands and tiny fishing villages. It’s all red cottages, salty air, and kayaks weaving through the islets. It feels like a postcard.
We spent 12 sun-soaked days here—27°C and blue skies the whole way. Apparently, that’s rare. But we’ll take it.
Itinerary At A Glance
12 night independent itinerary for Halmstad in Halland province and Orust island on Bohuslän coast
Based on flying from Leeds into Gothenburg, with a hop in Amsterdam
Highlights include DIY outdoor dining in one of the Edible Country tables, Bronze Age rock carvings, biking the famous Kattegattelden coastal trail, hiking and outdoor cooking in the forest on Midsummer’s Eve, and plenty of fresh baked goods at cafes with seaviews
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Late June/early July
Driest, warmest and lightest months, plan for mixed weather.
Note also that, outside the major urban centres, many of the summer homes, tourist attractions, ferry routes and eateries are only operational May to September, so visiting outside of these times is a very different (and probably trickier) prospect.
TRAVEL MEANS
Leeds to Gothenburg with a hop in Amsterdam, flying with KLM
Car also be essential to move between locations, as well as road or hybrid bike hire for the entirety of the stay in Halmstad
ACCOMMODATION
Halmstad/Halland province
We stayed in this Cosy and luxurious villa on the outskirts of Halmstad.
Quiet. Large outdoor space including pool and cooking area. Proper family home with all the mod-cons. Recommended.
Bohuslän Coast
We stayed in this Gorgeous and modern coastal home with incredible views out to sea from the deck.
Recommended, especially if you particularly prize a peaceful and out-of-the-way location.
SCHEDULE
Halmstad in Halland province - Day 1 to 7
Day 1
Arrive: drove to Halmstad from Gothenburg
Collect Bike Rental from Rent-A-Bike Halmstad
Day 2
Bike: Pick a section of the Kattegattelden cycle trail using this extremely handy and comprehensive website to the trail, with an option to download the GPX files.
Cafe: Stopped at neighbourhood cafe Borjes Harplige Konditori for a pitstop and has my very first try of a chokoladbollar. Flipping marvellous and a wide selection for such a small village bakery.
Dinner: at the house
Day 3
Lund: This was one of our only rainy days, on which we headed out to Lund, the ‘Oxford of Sweden’, 1h 30m drive to the south.
Wandered the town, and stopped for coffee and baked goods before heading home - specifically Ramklints Konditorei for traditional Swedish patisserie and Lund Gateau Saluhallen
Day 4
Hike: Went on this Gourmet Hike tour with Anders. Cooked outdoors and checked constantly for ticks…..found some as a matter of fact…
Day 5
Bike: Pick a section of the Kattegattelden cycle trail which includes Falkenberg and explore the town as part of the route
Dinner: Booked in at Köketin Falkenberg, recommended by the White Guide - an excellent choice. The food and the service was superb, proudly Scandi, and just on the right side of ‘fine dining’. Not so progressive that it felt ‘try hard’ but still special enough to have felt like a proper treat. This wasn’t food I can make at home.
Day 6
Relax: enjoyed the hot weather in the garden
Dinner: BBQ outside
Day 7
Fika: Anders (our tour guide) and his wife, Viktoria, invited us for fika at their home in Halmstad. Viktoria baked a variety of teeny little bakes, from chokoladbiskvier to slices of Prinsesstårta. We sat outside in the shade of a tree with coffee and delicious baked goods and told each other some stories.
Deeply grateful for their invite to join us at their home. A highlight of our trip, for sure.
-
Spend an evening at Rotundan in Norre Katts Park in central Halmstad, with street food options with a musical performance from their cultural program
Take a guided tour of Tjolöholms Slott (Tjoloholm’s Castle)
Visit the Bath House at Varberg (Kalbadhuset Varberg) for a sauna and fika
Take a wander around Helsingborg
Take a trip out to Varberg to dine at Spiseriet (for tables of less than 6 people, it is drop-ins only)
Spend an afternoon in Halmstad, using this self-guided history walk as my rough guide - its only in Swedish but nice to have a paper copy for a bit of slow-ways pathfinding
Stop in for lunch or fika at Söderfamiljen in central Halmstad for a view over the river
Visit the Halland Art Museum or Mjellby Art Museum, to get to know a little more about artists in the region
Book in to ÄNG restaurant on the Ästad Vingård in Halland County. Recently awarded both 1 Michelin Star and a Michelin Green Star - first introduced in 2020, the Michelin Green Star is an annual award which highlights restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices
Do a local beer tasting on Friday or Saturday nights at Halmstad Brygghus
Day 8 - drive between Halmstad & Bohuslän
Made a pitstop at the café town of Alingsås, the Swedish Capital of Fika, for a wander around the town and its many cafes. Cute, not astounding.
About 300km, 3hrs 30mins driving
Bohuslän Coast - Day 8 to 13
Day 8
Settle in, buy supplies
Day 9
Sculpture Park: Went to the Pilane outdoor sculpture park on Tjorn, open May to September from 9am to 7pm. Gorgeous.
Lunch: Dined in the courtyard under the blazing sun, at Margareta's Koko Skafferi, Sunsby Sateri. Set in a historic manor estate, the café blends old-world charm with cozy vibes. You can sit indoors among vintage furnishings or outside surrounded by gardens.
Walk: there are walking trails at Sundsby Sateri. We took to one after lunch, to work off the kladdkaka…….which was utterly excellent - a crisp shell with a gooey interior - but also extremely indulgent.
Dinner: at the house
Day 10
Museum: Visited Nordic Watercolour Museum on Tjorn Island
Lunch: Lottas Bak & Farm (Lotta’s Sourdough Bakery & Cafe). Open Wed-Fri 9am to 5pm, Sat 8am to 3pm, Sun 10am to 3pm. A delighful neighbourhood cafe with a back terrace that looks out over a teensy little inlet. Tranquil and relaxed, with great food and an on-site bakery. An ideal spot for a sit-down.
Day 11
Visited the Vitklycke Museum and rock carvings in Tanum, member part of the World Heritage list as an outstanding example of Bronze Age art. Visitors can either join a guided tour or follow the well-marked six kilometre path for an exploration of the many rock carvings at this site. Open 10am to 5pm June to August (more limited opening times April, May, Sept, Oct and Nov).
We chose the independent option.
Pretty breathtaking. The carvings are highly visible, having been repainted to really stand out, and its rather mindbending the quantity that there on the site.One in particualr is a huge depiction of a man, way bigger than human size.
Highly highly recommended.
Day 12
Forgaging & outdoor dining: Booked on one of the Edible Country tables at Ramsvik. Stunning stunning location, perched on a cliff looking out over The Skagerrak—a strait that connects the North Sea to the Kattegat and separates Sweden from Norway and Denmark.
The foraging though, was very very difficult, having only been provided with a stylised line drawing
Day 13
Have one final breakfast of coffee and kanelbulle (cinnamon bun)
Try to leave in the afternoon
-
Wander around Marstrand on Kungälv island
Make day trips to visit a couple of the prize spots on the island of Orust - Gullholmen and Mollösund
Hike Dyron Island boardwalk trail, ending with a stop at the public sauna
Dinner at Brygghuset, Fiskebäckskil- multiple winner of the Whiskey Restaurant of the Year Award, and reputedly knowledgeable in all things seafood
Sewing and Wearing
Other Active Holiday Itineraries
Rye, East Sussex - biking, castles and wine in high Summer
From Leeds to Rye, East Sussex, on the south coast of England, my itinerary journal of our summer staycation.
Why Rye?
Rye’s distinction lies in being a medieval coastal merchant town that got rich through its being a member of the confederation of Cinque Ports from the 12th to the 15th century.
This group of towns across nowadays Kent and East Sussex were granted the local profits of justice in return for providing and maintaining ships ready for English Crown to use in case of need, principally in defence of invasion or attack by Danish or French forces. This role of maintaining defence contingents for the realm of England came with some benefits; namely some tax exemptions and a level of self-government and self-jurisdiction. In addition, their being ports meant trade and mercantile activities, which typically lead to wealth generation.
While all of that is long in the past, Rye has maintained much of its quaint and meandering medieval architecture and has reinvented itself as a tourist destination.
The area itself is also just at the edge of the High Weald National Landscape, a beautiful area of green and rolling hills, medieval manors and English winemaking.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Rye, East Sussex - on the south coast of England, right on the border with Kent
Based on driving from Yorkshire in July
Highlights include a visit to Bodiam Castle, cycling the gorgeous green-and-rolling countryside through pretty and historic towns and villages, and tour with tasting at an English vineyard
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Did the place live up to hype or expectations?
This area of the UK doesn’t seem to get any attention as a possible holiday region but I can truly attest that this is a gorgeous part of the country, ideally suited to a long break with all the makings of a great spot for a holiday. We found idyllic countryside, history-aplenty, unique architecture, some marvellous eateries, and well-surfaced and quiet roads (and many singletrack lanes) that were ideal for cycling. It felt peaceful, affluent, with plenty to do and not at all thronged with tourists.
Now, despite the hype on social media about Rye, Rye is worth maximum, one day of your time. A few hours will easily do it. What I would recommend is choosing to stay somewhere in the countryside around Rye because it is just so darn lovely.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Yes - 4 days is an ideal length of time to explore the area, for a relaxed mix of biking, history, food and relaxation.
I have said it before and I will say it again - 4 nights, Monday to Friday is a superb option for a staycation - feels like a full week off work, long enough to truly escape the daily routine and relax, but short enough that it doesn’t feel like overmuch in a place that is still essentially home.
Would I make another visit?
I could see us returning, not exactly to this location, but to the wider region of Kent and East Sussex for another summer staycation.
TRAVEL MEANS
Driving from Yorkshire took 5hr 45mins
It is a long distance, but that really contributed to the feeling of ‘going on holiday’ for me
ACCOMMODATION
Oast House - buildings designed and used for for kilning (drying) hops as part of the brewing process. They can be found in most hop-growing (and former hop-growing) areas and many have now been converted to houses - they are very distinctive and all over this region and not found much in other parts of the UK.
a delightful little self-contained annex
perfectly proportioned for a couple
very much ‘of its place’
a chance to stay in something quite traditional (low ceilings, stone walls, exposed beams, walled garden etc.) without having to hire out a large property - which is usually the case for this type of accom
just outside of Rye
National Cycle Network Route 2 just behind the house.
Day 1
Drive in the morning, collect groceries, arrive and settle in
For supplies, we shopped at both Jempsons and Rye Deli - both great examples of local food retailers offering great produce
Day 2
Visited Bodiam Castle: 30 min drive or 1hr 15m cycle from Rye, an archetypal 14th century moated castle with ruined interior - a glimpse of medieval splendour
Cycled around Bedgebury National Pinetum & Forest: 8 mile red singletrack route
Drinks & Dinner in Rye: Had some excellent bottled Belgian beers at The Outside Inn in central Rye. Dined at Tatners Street Kitchen in Rye - very modern casual dinery serving up the current on-trend American-style goodies like slow-cooked meats in buns, dirty fries, hotdogs and the like. Easy, tasty and atmospheric
Day 3
Breakfast: at Tibbs ‘Pick Your Own’ Farm - just up the road, a pick-your-own soft fruits farm and cafe with a superb view over the valley below. Fruits were in season when we were there. Highly recommended for a snacky breakfast or coffee and cake.
Long bike ride: Took in the sights on the bikes, following (most of) the Sustrans route: 20-mile Rye and Winchelsea Circular. A fairly challenging route on a mountain bike, with plenty of ups and downs for a physical challenge, and predominantly done on single-track country lanes. Very do-able on a hybrid or road bike also
Day 4
Relaxed & wandered around Rye: made breakfast, spend the morning chilling out then spent the morning having a wander around Rye
Late Afternoon Vineyard Tour, Wine Testing & Dinner: at Tillingham (20 min drive from Rye), a young and lively bio-dynamic vineyard just outside of Rye. Along with dinner at their superb restaurant, this was one of the highlights of our trip. I am no wine connoisseur, but still fascinating to attend their tasting event and learn more about their wines, English wines, the winemaking process and how they are attempting some radical practices in the pursuit of making great wine.
Day 5
Drove home
-
Have breakfast, lunch, or dinner at The Figin Central Rye
Sissinghurst Castle Garden- a world-renowned garden
Walking tour of Rye's Huguenot history using theGeotourist app.
Cycle around Bewel Water (13 miles) - round reservoir route is open to cyclists, horses and walkers and is made up of forest paths, surfaced trails, country lanes and meadows
Visit Farley’s House & Gallery - former home of Lee Miller and Roland Penrose; Pablo Picasso stayed in 1950, and Max Ernst, Joan Miró, Man Ray, Leonora Carrington and Dorothea Tanning visited from overseas whilst Eileen Agar, Kenneth Armitage, William Turnbull, John Craxton and Richard Hamilton formed the British contingent. Works by many of these artists are displayed in the house in a selection that regularly changes as items are loaned to exhibitions in galleries around the world
Picnic on Camber Sands – a stretch of pale sand with a backdrop of massive dunes.
VisitGreat Dixter House – home of gardening writer and general place of pilgrimage for anyone interested in horticulture
Take a steam train through the Weald aboard the Kent & East Sussex Railway, travelling in the style of the steam train era. There are normally two steam hauled departures per Saturday & Sunday:
The morning departure leaves Tenterden at 10:40am and arrives at Bodiam at 11:30am. It then departs Bodiam at approximately 11:45am, arriving back in Tenterden at 12:32pm.
The afternoon departure leaves Tenterden at 1:15pm, arrives at Bodiam at 2:00pm, before departing at approximately 2:15pm, arriving back in Tenterden at 3:07pm.
For a more established vineyard, visitChapel Down
Tastes of the British Isles
Southern Germany - a 12 night Summer road trip.
A hot summer road trip through Germany’s southern states. Castles, cakes, pretzels, bikes, hikes, lakes and beer all make an appearance. There’s nothing this place doesn’t have.
Itinerary At A Glance
12 night independent touring itinerary for Southern Germany, across the two southern states of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria.
Based on flying into Stuttgart from Manchester, and back in from Munich into Manchester, in July
Highlights include an invigorating walk around the hills of Heidelberg, a leisurely stroll around spa-town Baden-Baden, rest-stop coffee on the Lake Constance lakeside in Lindau, biking in the Black Forest and around Chiemsee Lake, a visit to The Eagles Nest in Berchtesgaden, a tour around the Eisriesenwelt Ice Caves over the border in Austria, Black Forest Gateau in its home in the Black Forest, and daily pretzel indulgence.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Did the place live up to expectations?
I would say this trip exceeded expectations and doesn’t get the attention it deserves.
I think the common belief is that Germany is a land of industry and/or grungy alternativeness; Brits go to Germany for Oktoberfest or a kooky bohemian-alternative city break in Berlin or Munich, but no-one seems to consider it a place to summer so that of course made it even more appealing.
I always like to think I’m choosing ‘off-the-beaten-track’ options and I got it into my head that Germany might make a fantastic summer destination - I imagined floral meadows, rolling hills, dancing waterfalls and outdoor beer gardens - I wasn’t far wrong really, but add in castles, excellent baked goods and some World War II historical sites.
The regions we visited honoured history and tradition, in and amongst the gorgeous rolling green countryside. There is a magnificence about it, with what felt to me like a commitment to aesthetics and beauty. It was clean, welcoming, green, varied and with much to see and do as a tourist.
We absolutely LOVED this trip, and have fallen a little bit in love with Germany as a result.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Logistically, Germany is both very easy to get to from the UK, with only a short flying distance and multiple arrival/departure points, and very easy to move around with an excellent road system - for this reason, the independent touring holiday, spending 3 nights, 4 nights and 5 nights in different locations across the southern states of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria, worked perfectly.
I settled on starting off with a city break in Heidelberg, a university city on the River Neckar with glorious Baroque architecture; moving on to stay in Triberg in the Black Forest, the birthplace of the Black Forest Gateau; finishing up at the biggest lake in the Bavarian Lake District, Lake Chiemsee.
This almost felt like 6 holidays in one owing to the contrasts we experienced throughout the trip - we had 35°C weather and a visit to an ice cave where it was below freezing; we found Freiburg im Bresigau a vibrant and youthful place contrasted with the strong traditional feeling in the Bavarian Lake District; we had all of city, town, village, river, mountain, lake and forest. Some of the tiny memorable details of being in Germany were the colourful floral window boxes decorating most houses - we saw this everywhere - and the pretzels, the freshness and taste of which isn’t well replicated in pretzels you buy in the UK.
The weather is more changeable than you can expect in southern Europe, but it was very hot on at least half of our 12 days, with much opportunity to enjoy outdoor activity as a result and I would say generally hotter than the UK.
Don’t fall into the anglophone assumption that everywhere you go will speak English - they may not, so brush up on some German phrasing to help you through simple activities you know you are going to do regularly.
Would I make another visit?
I would definitely consider another summer holiday in Germany and I have considered a similar touring holiday crisscrossing the French-German-Swiss borders with stops in Freiburg, Colmar/Mulhouse, and Neuchatel. My advice for others would be to choose Freiburg im Breisgau as the base in the Black Forest. This little university city was absolutely buzzing, with delightfully unique little canals running through its streets. It would be an easy location to enjoy both the food and culture of a city and outdoor activities in the surrounding countryside.
FLIGHTS & OTHER TRAVEL MEANS
Fly with Lufthansa from Manchester, into Stuttgart, and out of Munich
We also hired a car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as bikes for parts of the trip
ROUTE & STOPS
Fly Manchester into Stuttgart; drive to Heidelberg for a 3 night stay
Drive from Heidelberg to the Black Forest (Triberg) for a 4 night stay; stop off at Baden-Baden along the way
Drive from The Black Forest to the Bavarian Lake District (Lake Chiemsee) for a 5 night stay; stop off at Lindau along the way
Drive from Lake Chiemsee to Munich; fly Munich to Manchester
ACCOMMODATION
Heidelberg
Hotel Chester on the outskirts of Heidelberg.
While the hotel itself was lovely, and we couldn’t complain about anything really - it was modern, clean, quiet, with good service and a very good breakfast - it was too far out to make the most of the 2.5 days we had in Heidelberg. This was a lesson learnt for me.
Black Forest
Inselklause in Triberg.
Hotel and service was lovely, but it was the wrong choice of location for us - it wasn’t central to anything we wanted to visit so everything became quite a drive away.
Lake Chiemsee
Hotel Bonnschloessl in Bernau am Chiemsee.
Traditional and classic - nothing to write home about for us, but clean, tidy and friendly.
SCHEDULE
Heidelberg - Day 1 to 4
Visited Schwetzingen Palace (Schloss Schwetzingen) on the outskirts of Heidelberg. Glorious. The gardens in particular make an ideal place for a summer wander
Walked the Philosophenweg (Philosophers Way) on the western banks of the River Necker and accessible starting from the city centre. It is a nice physical challenge and offers excellent views of the city as well as interesting sites like the Heidelberg Thingstatte which is a Nazi-built open-air amphitheatre where thousands of people could gather for propaganda presentations. Eerie.
Visited the Technik Museum Speyer - an automotive and aviation museum on the outskirts of Heidelberg
Lunched at Strohauers Cafe in central Heidelberg. Classic and authentic with an outdoor seating area perfect for people-watching.
Had top-class coffee and cake at Bäckerei Utz on our day trip out to Schloss Schwetzingen.
Drive between Heidelberg & Black Forest - Day 4
About 180km, 2hr 15 mins driving
On our way through to the Black Forest, we stopped at Baden-Baden, a glorious little spa town at the start of the Black Forest for a little coffee and a peruse around this pretty affluent town.
Black Forest - Day 4 to 8
Walked the route alongside and over the Triberg Waterfalls - the highest in Germany
Had Black Forest Gateau at Cafe Schaefer in Triberg
The hotel we were staying in, Inselklause, also had a lovely restaurant and a river running just behind it meaning some of the dishes included caught-that-day river trout from their own back yard. Really good
Had absolutely gorgeous chocolate and baking confections at Gmeiner on our day trip out to Freiburg im Breisgau
Took a day trip out to Freiburg im Breisgau - a highlight of our trip. The city is funky, outdoorsy and with the most unusual little miniature canal system running through its streets. We actually parked at the top of the mountain outside Freiburg to take a trip on the Schauinslandbahn - a cable car connecting an upper station near the summit of the Schauinsland mountain with a lower station in the municipality of Horben, near the city of Freiburg im Breisgau. Then it was a short and simple tram ride from the lower station into the city and it was worth it for the peaceful views of the Black Forest as we made the descent
Drive between Black Forest & Bavarian Lake District - Day 8
About 420km, 4hr 45 mins driving
On our way through to Lake Chiemsee and to break up the long 5 hour drive, we stopped at Lindau on the banks of Lake Constance (Bodensee in German) and wow - this little lakeside town is just gorgeous - all little streets, pastel-coloured buildings, floral window boxes and loads of outdoor cafes and cobbled squares. It is actually a teeny island in the lake itself, reached by crossing a small bridge and it is definitely worth a stop here. Especially lovely are the food establishments that face out onto the lake itself.
Lake Chiemsee - Day 8 to 12
Dined at Schlosswirtschaft at Wildenwart. A lovely, traditional countryside restaurant near Chiemsee - authentic German food in a gorgeous rural setting.
Had delicious pretzels from Cafe Obermaier in Bernau
E-biked all around the Lake Chiemsee. A full-day 58km loop with scenic stops - a great way to explore the area.
Day trip out to Eisriesenwelt Ice Caves (Austria). I can’t do justice to just how otherworldly and spectacular these are, and it’s an uncanny experience to be in 25°C on the outside, dropping almost immediately to below freezing once you enter, even in July. Once inside, its a rather spellbinding vision of nature’s own ‘ice sculpture’ with huge mystical caverns of icicles, ice falls and ice shelves
Herrenchiemsee. Took the ferry to the island to visit King Ludwig’s residence - regal, whimsical, and beautifully set on the lake.
Took a day trip out to The Eagles Nest (Kehlsteinhaus in German) in Berchtesgaden. This site was a symbol of power of the Nazi regime; decisions were made at the Eagle’s Nest and I believe it was a retreat option for Nazi leadership where they could hole up as it was very hard to access. The building stands perched over a sheer rock wall and to facilitate construction, a road was cut into the mountain through previously impassable terrain. We really enjoyed the visit, and there is a challenging scramble around the mountain at the top. We felt the controversial historical significance was handled humbly and with due remorse and chagrin for what it represents. To quote their website:
“Today however it still offers a magnificent and unique view of the surrounding countryside and also the opportunity to remember and learn about the inhuman dictatorship it served.”
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
I would sum up the best of German food culture as Cakes, Bakes and Beer. It is no lie to say that we had pretzels every single day of our trip, and I don’t think we had a bad one. They are sold in every bakery, in every town and village, and I have never tasted any better. Cakes generally were also some of the best I have ever had - easily rivalling more famous baking destinations like Paris or Copenhagen. Beer choices and quality were also superlative. These are the tastes of Germany for us, and it is well worth going to experience them.
Generally speaking, while we had good food during our trip, hot meals served for lunch or dinner tended towards hearty traditional grub made up of a potato option, some meat, and a sauce. Not necessarily the wildest or most inspiring of options, but tasty, filling and comforting nonetheless
Lessons Learnt for me
Prioritise location when choosing accommodation. On this trip, staying too far from the places we wanted to visit meant spending excessive time driving each day. I’ve realised that for city breaks especially, being within walking distance of the centre adds huge value — it allows for spontaneous outings, easy access to meals, and a more relaxed, immersive experience.
Touring with stops of 3–5 nights work well for an active pace; going longer or adding more stops can feel too hectic. Next time, I’ll plan fewer moves and choose accommodation that allows us to stay put for a few days — ideally within walking distance of key sights or no more than a 20-minute drive. That way, we can park the car and enjoy a more relaxed rhythm, with time to explore spontaneously and soak up the local atmosphere.
Other July itineraries
Central Cornwall - an active mid-week stay in Spring
Itinerary journal of my springtime holiday in Cornwall. Where we ate, what we saw and how we enjoyed biking around the countryside.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 day independent itinerary for Central-Eastern Cornwall, based on driving from Leeds, in April
Highlights include Charlestown, Tintagel castle, dinner at Rick Stein’s, biking the Camel Trail and of course, eating famous Cornish treats like the pasty and cream tea
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to expectations?
The only reason I booked this was that the pandemic forced me to consider staycation options. I myself have never paid attention to Cornwall, resistant mainly because it felt like too ‘obvious’ a choice, and since novel and unfamiliar cultural experiences is one of the main reasons I enjoy travel, holidaying on UK soil is usually very low down the list of options. Needs must in this case. Research turned up interesting historical sites, strong food culture and a countryside ideal for exploration by bike which is all the typical hallmarks of a destination we enjoy, so I booked.
Despite this, I still felt a bit bratty about it before we went; like I was being punished and not being allowed to travel abroad so this was like a version of being grounded…………..but having been and come back, I have completely amended my viewpoint.
Cornwall is not famous for nothing! I think its reputation a holiday destination is well-deserved - the countryside is attractive, there is plenty to see and do wherever you are in the peninsula and the food is great. I found the North Coast less attractive than the South Coast. It also felt like an island to me when we were there; the sea is almost always in view, which adds to the illusion of being ‘away’.
Turns out, staying in the UK can be just as enjoyable a holiday as going abroad, especially if the purpose is to just relax and enjoy some simple pleasures.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Cornwall is a very very long way from Yorkshire, so travelling such a distance means a weekend is really out of the question.
4 nights felt spot on for us - this was my Mum’s suggestion and one I will use again - 7 full nights would probably feel like too much for us in the UK.
She also recommended we stay Monday to Friday which was genius; you get the weekend before and after which both gives you time to organise yourself and also sort of ‘elongates’ the holiday into still feeling like a full week off work.
Side bonus is that Mon-Thu rates are oftentimes a touch cheaper than the weekends.
We had a mixture of activity, culture and history; and there wasy plenty more to do besides where we got to.
Would I make another visit?
In short, despite my reservations, I would, and probably will, go back.
WHEN
April
Very end of Spring
LIGHT & WEATHER
Long days, likely warm (not hot)
Sunrise: 06:56am to 05:57am
Sunset: 19:52pm to 20:38pm
14-15 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car & Bike
Driving from Yorkshire to Cornwall, with an overnight rest-stop in Bristol on the way down. About 6.5 hours each way.
Bike for activities whilst there.
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed in this Airbnb
This place was marvellous - very rurally located, luxury and modern, extremely well suited for a couple, with a fabulous little Japanese-style deep-seated bath and outdoor barbeque. Highly highly recommended.
SCHEDULE
DAY 1
Drive to Bristol; overnight in a Travelodge
DAY 2
Drive from Bristol, settle in
Biked The Camel Trail: a disused railway line that has been converted into an easy, mostly flat, bike trail
Cream tea at Tim’s Place in Wadebridge: very enjoyable and very attentive service (particularly for a cafe - felt more like proper restaurant waitress service)
Dined on the outdoor roof terrace at Rick Stein’s The Seafood Restaurant - this was when outdoor eating was the only option and admittedly, it was a bit too chilly to really fully enjoy it but we were so thrilled just to be in a restaurant, we still had a good time. Food, service and setting were all lovely.
DAY 3
Biked from Charlestown to The Lost Gardens of Heligan along Route 3 of the National Cycle Network - about 1hr each way. Enjoyed a leisurely afternoon wandering the ground and gardens before returning to Charlestown
DAY 4
Visited English Heritage site, Tintagel Castle. It is deservedly famous this place - a very large and imposing ruin of a castle perched on the north coast and spread over a large area. We spent a good few hours walking around imagining what it would have been like hundreds and hundreds of years ago. Recommended, especially as an off-weather day (which we had) - the blustery overcast and changeable weather just added to the atmosphere.
DAY 5
Had breakfast at St Kew Farmshop: this was KNOCKOUT!! Its a place for locals, so well off the tourist trail and you need a car to reach it, but it is worth it. Cafe and Farmshop combined, we had a delicious and healthy breakfast of pimped-up mushrooms on toast and a sausage-cheese English Muffin, and purchased local beef steak and asparagus for a barbecue at our accommodation later in the stay. They also have a lovely outdoor seating area looking over a small garden. Highly highly recommended
Wandered around Fowey (pronounced ‘foy’): a delightful little town on the south coast filled with independent shops and outlets. Just meandered the steep and narrow streets, drank coffee, soaked up the vibe, perused the little shops and admired the street art. If I was to recommend a place to stay in Cornwall, this would be it - the nicest town we visited on our stay
Ate freshly baked Cornish pasties from both Malcolm Barnecutts in Wadebridge, and Sarah’s Pasty Shop in Looe - both excellent. Controversially, the Cheese & Onion was my favourite
DAY 6
Drive home
Ideas for another visit
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Stay in Falmouth for a bit of an arty ‘city break’
Stay in Penzance for close proximity to Lands End and access to the Scilly Isles - itinerary here
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Stay in this converted Engine House for a uniquely Cornish accommodation
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Visit the Museum of Global Communications in Porthcurno - apparently, in 1870, the first international telegraph cable was brought ashore at Porthcurno, connecting Britain to India and later other parts of the British Empire. By the start of World War II, Porthcurno was a critical hub for allied communications with 14 cables coming ashore, carrying some 70% of all communications. Looks fascinating
Book in to see a performance at The Minack Theatre - an open air theatre on the cliffside overlooking the sea
Visit Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens near Penzance
Go to The Eden Project - on everyone’s list really, but unfortunately closed when we visited
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Visit Nancarrow Farm for one of their famed Feasts or Sunday Lunch with home-reared organic meat
Summer Sewing projects for a UK staycation
Turin and Monferrato, Piedmont - a twin-centre autumnal trip
An autumn itinerary with Arbarth factory tours, martinis, and day rides in the Monferrato hills.
Itinerary At A Glance
Twin-centre independent itinerary for Piedmont; 3 nights in Turin, 7 nights in the Monferrato Hills in Alessandria province.
Based on travelling in late summer or early autumn, flying in and out of Milan from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.
Highlights include a tour of the Abarth Factory, a cocktail experience at the home of Martini, indulging in the famed white truffle, staying in a high-spec design accommodation, day bike tours around the rolling green hills of the Monferrato, and an exciting gourmet experience at one of the regions many Michelin-starred restaurants.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.
Why here?
Piedmont (Piemonte in Italian) is in the north-western corner of Italy and both the Italian and French name for the region roughly translates as ‘foot of the mountain’ which is very apt, as the region’s physical background and border along its western edge, is the Alps.
Piedmont is known for its lakes, hills, rivers and its food: white truffle, gianduja, Gavi, Barolo, and Asti. It’s also well set up for independent cycling, with mapped routes for everything from road touring to proper downhill trail centres.
This itinerary started with a visit to the Fiat Lingotto Factory and the Abarth Works Museum in Turin (my boyfriend’s a serious petrolhead). Turin itself has a reputation for royalty, industry, and grand café culture. It was the first capital of unified Italy, home to the kings of Savoy, Fiat, and Juventus. We’re expecting a quietly confident city with boulevards, motorsport, and a splash of Martini — vermouth was invented here.
Rather than heading to the lakes, we’re staying rural in the Monferrato Hills near Casale Monferrato. The accommodation felt fresher, better value, and less over-touristed. This part of the trip is for relaxing and cycling through vineyard country.
WHEN
Early Autumn - either September or October.
A little unexpectedly, October is actually high season in the Monferrato-Langhe due to the harvest and the importance of gastrotourism to this area.
It is a relatively wet place all year round so I’ll be expecting mixed weather. Averages indicate that it is at its driest in the Winter.
TRAVEL MEANS
Flights into Turin are possible, though I found them much more expensive than flights into Milan, which is just a 2hr drive from Turin. Flight options are either of the below:
KLM, from Leeds into Milan, with a 2hr change in Amsterdam
Easyjet, from Manchester direct into Milan
I will hire a car for the entirety of the trip, and a bike for the second part of the trip in the Monferrato Hills
ACCOMMODATION
Turin
I found lots and lots of ‘oldy worldy’ accommodation in Turin, which isn’t really my bag, but something else I noticed in abundant availability were modern conversions of big old industrial spaces. These would be my pick in priority order:
Edit Lofts - this is a former Fiat factory made into funky loft apartments. They also have a restaurant on site recommended by the Michelin Green Travel Guide. Only downside is that it is a 40 minute walk from the centre
Funky loft space smack-bang in the centre
Modern, minimalist and space-maximising design loft a little outside of the historical centre
Monferrato Hills in Alessandria/Asti province
I found many many beautiful places to stay in this whole region, but once I found this Glass House in Terruggia, about 6km from the small historical river city of Casale Monferrato, I knew we had to stay here. The rest of my trip is designed around staying here
SCHEDULE
Turin - Day 1 to 3
Take a guided tour of the Abarth Factory Workshop
Visit the FCA Heritage Hub which opens soon in the Fiat Mirafiori industrial complex, with an exhibition of Fiat, Abarth, Lancia and Alfa Romeo
Go have a look around La Venaria Reale, one of Turin’s famous Savoy residences and one that stood out to me
Visit Castello di Rivoli contemporary art museum
Have coffee and cake at Caffe Mulassano - a grand and traditional cafe
Do as the locals do, with a pre-dinner aperitif and snack at La Drogheria in Piazza Vittorio square.
I’d book into any one of these restaurant recommendations from the Michelin Green Travel Guide
Take an an aperitivo ‘crawl’ in San Salvario - Enò | Via Galliari, 1, Affine | Via Belfiore, 16, Gorilla | Via Galliari, 20, Crumb | Piazza Madama Cristina, 2, Eria San Salvario | Via S. Pio V, 11, La Cuite | Via Baretti, 11
Take a 40 min drive outside the centre to get to know more about vermouth and Martini on this Ultimate Martini Experience at Casa Martini, the historical home of the well-known alcohol producer
Day 4 - driving between Turin & Casale Monferrato
About 75-100km (depending on the route), 1 hr 15 mins driving
Monferrato hills in Alessandria/Asti province - Day 4 to 10
The majority of our time will be spent on the bike, and the following routes and destinations strike my fancy:
Take this circular route from Casale Monferrato to Valenza, the famed City of Gold, which boasts the highest concentration of gold and artisan jewellery businesses in the country - I think we’ll pay a visit to the Museo del Gioello (jewellery museum) while we’re there too (65km route - an all day excursion. Start point is 25 min bike ride from Terruggia)
Take this route or this route for a tour around the Infernot Hills and a stop in Treville for a view of the Alps. (25km route - about 2-3 hours. Start point is 25 min bike ride from Terruggia)
Take this short multi-looping route in and around San Salvatore Monferrato (25km route - about 2-3 hours. Start point is 1 hour bike ride from Terruggia)
Cycle this loop in the lands of San Giovanni Bosco (62km route - an all day excursion)
Drive or bike out to Asti (4 hr bike ride round trip from Terruggia) just for a little wander around the city and a sip of the famous sparkling wine Asti Spumante
Cycle out to the walled medieval miniature city of Moncalvo (2.5 hr round trip from Terruggia) to walk the ramparts, visit the Marc Chagall paintings held in the Civic Museum of Moncalvo and have dinner at sunset
Drive or bike out to Montegrosso d’Asti (4-5 hour round trip from Terruggia)
For a wide variety of cycle routes across the whole of Piedmont that can be downloaded as GPX files, I found PiemontEscape to be superb
Book for dinner at Il Cavallo Scosso in Asti - a young and modern restaurant as recommended by the Michelin Green Guide
Faletto 1881 - a modern restaurant in a farmhouse-come-hotel-and-venue just outside of Casale Monferrato
Accademia Ristorante in Casale Monferrato - local and seasonal Piemontese cuisine, as recommended by the Michelin Green Guide
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Piedmont is extraordinarily rich in food and drink both grown and invented here:
drinks wise, there is Barolo and Gavi wine, bicerin (a coffee mixed with cream), and vermouth.
pasta-wise, there is agnolotti, plin and tajerin.
cheese-wise, there is stracchino (creamy, soft white cheese), toma (a light, semi-hard cow’s milk cheese), robiola (delicate and sweet, often preserved in oil), raschera (made with a combination of cow, goat and sheep’s milk coming from the high pastures of the Monferrato).
other food items include gianduja (chocolate-hazelnut spread), truffles (most famous ones come from Alba), bagna cauda, bonèt pudding, baci di dama, Savoy biscuits, grissini breadsticks and panna cotta.
Traditionally, aperitivo is meant to whet the appetite before dinner and is accompanied by a variety of appetizers (stuzzichini) such as cold cuts, cheeses, salads, olives, bite-sized pizzas and other savouries. However, such is the popularity of this time honoured tradition, a new concept of apericena has been introduced in recent years that closes the gap between aperitivo and dinner and acts as a less formal alternative to eating out in a restaurant. Now, sumptuous buffet tables in bars and cafes all over Turin groan with a mix of the traditional bites plus pasta and rice dishes, grilled and freshly chopped vegetables, couscous and quinoa salads, cakes and more. The buffets usually start at around 7pm and can go on until 9pm/10pm
Tastes of Italy
Morbihan, Brittany - a twin-centre trip with road biking and city break
Travelling in early summer, my plan for 10-11 nights in Nantes and the Gulf of Morbihan. An itinerary for biking, art trails, a bit of Jules Verne, eating crepes, visiting medieval towns and castles, and admiring the sunset in pretty port towns.
Why Brittany?
With it’s own language and gastronomy that is heavily influenced by Celtic culture (indeed Brittany counts as one of the six Celtic nations along with Cornwall, Wales, Isle of Man, Ireland and Scotland), visitors are principally drawn to Brittany’s for coastal views, well-preserved historical towns and sites, food treats like salted caramel and crepes, and its unique cultural tradition that is quite distinct from the rest of France.
Tourism is well-established here with a wealth of online information to inform my independent itinerary. Its definitely a region geared up to receive visitors; many of them British, but also many of them French so it looks to have retained authenticity in its touristic offering. It is also well-serviced with transport options from the UK. This is not necessarily the place to discover that feels like I’m the only one to have done so, but I can take advantage of the expansive tourism infrastructure and online resources to get to some of the lesser-known places and design myself a unique itinerary quite easily.
Across the whole region, there seems to be a number of locales that strike my fancy and meet my brief of culturally rich, a little under the mainstream UK travel radar, and with opportunities for biking - Nantes, Quimper and Bénodet, St Malo, the Cote Eméraude, Noirmoutier-en-Île, Dinan, ruins at Carnac…this looks to be the kind of place that I will need several different holidays to see everything I’d like to see.
For this itinerary, I have settled on a design for southern Brittany, starting with a city break in Nantes, followed up with enjoying the coast in the Gulf of Morbihan, in easy reach of medieval town Vannes.
Nantes is the former “City of Dukes”, and was once the administrative capital of Brittany but is now part of the Pays de la Loire. This city looks to be a beauty - art features heavily, history is everywhere, and it looks to be a classy kind of place that isn’t too big to really see on a city break. There is also industry and an important port, and as per the Copenhagenize Index 2017, was marked as the 16th most “bicycle-friendly” city in the world.
The Gulf of Morbihan is a natural harbour; indeed ‘mor bihan’ in Breton means ‘little sea’. It is scattered with little islands, isles and islets; the mainland is lined with pretty little coastal villages; and being on the west coast, it is a beautiful theatre for incredible sunsets. The whole area looks perfect for exploring on a bike; quiet rural roads, excellent views, and for the historical and cultural hit, several castles and the medieval city of Vannes are within easy distance for day trips on two wheels.
Itinerary At A Glance
10 day independent itinerary for Brittany & the Loire Valley in Northwestern France: 3 nights in Nantes, and 7 nights in the Gulf of Morbihan near Vannes
Based on travelling in summer, flying in and out of Nantes from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include getting to know more about Jules Verne, biking around Nantes, taking a brunch tour on the River Erdre, indulging in buttery crepes, hanging out in the vibrant fortified medieval city of Vannes, and e-biking around the craggy coast of the Gulf of Morbihan.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Late June or early July.
Brittany has an extremely pleasant summer from June through to September with mid-20s temperature and fairly low rain during this time also. I will expect changeable weather even in the summer, though typically a few degrees warmer than the UK. The rest of the year is cool (not really very cold) but can be very wet (wetter than Northern England)
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds Bradford to Nantes, with a 2hr stop in Amsterdam
Hire a car to collect from the airport for the entirety of the trip and a road bike.
ACCOMMODATION
Gulf of Morbihan (in my order of preference)
La Villa du Guern - I’d like any one of those suites overlooking the water
I’m not sure I have ever encountered a more original place to stay than this house on the water
La Ferm’h - elegantly furnished eco-gites in Baden
Right outside of Vannes, but with views overlooking the Gulf of Morbihan - great looking Airbnb
Nantes (in my order of preference)
Maisons du Monde Hotel & Suites - my pick would be the Copenhague apartment
Luxurious 2 bed apartment with a grand and opulent personality
Stunner of a split-level duplex
Tasteful & modern 2 bed apartment with welcoming decor and nicely laid out space, about 1 mile from the centre of Nantes
SCHEDULE
Nantes - Day 1 to 4
Visit Chateaux des Ducs – 15th century castle tracing the history of Nantes
Take brunch cruise, a lunch cruise or a dinner cruise aboard the Bateaux Nantais up the River Erdre
This city is so bicycle friendly – I’d try some of these bike routes suggested by France Vélo Tourisme for in and around Nantes
Reputedly, the Quai des Antilles on the western side of the Ile de Nantes is the place to be for an early evening aperitif or beer. The riverside is supposedly lined with bars and cafés, and it bursts into action after sunset.
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See an art exhibition at the industrial shed unit that is HAB Galérie, located on Île de Nantes
Book a performance at Le Lieu Unique - The last remaining vestiges of the LU biscuit factory established here in 1885 by Louis Lefèvre-Utile have been rehabilitated in 2000 by the architect Patrick Bouchain to give rise to this national centre for drama, dance and music. There is also a Turkish bath, a restaurant and a DJ in the bar on weekends
Follow the Green line through the city past nearly forty public art works and check out the Nymphea artwork at night drifting over the River Erdre
History of printworks at the Printing Museum
Jules Verne Museum, to learn about the city’s most famous artistic son
Wander by the Machines de l’Ile and the Great Elephant – this Jules Verne creation is the emblem of Nantes
Drive to Noirmoutier-en-Île - a flat island littered with cycling trails just off the Atlantic coast and about 1.5 hours from Nantes
Vannes & surrounds - Day 4 to 10
Spend at least half a day walking around half-timbered, fortified medieval town of Vannes. Eat in its cafes, admire it’s marina and walk the ramparts
Take an oyster mini-cruise to Ile aux Moines, to taste the oysters and learn more about their farming and the fragile ecosystem
Take a trip to Quiberon to visit the confectioner’s shop of Henri la Roux, inventor of the famous salted caramel
Bike out to the Fortresse de Largoët, the highest keep in France (2hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Bike out to the Chateau de Tredion for a walk around their sculpted gardens and sculpture park (3hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to Auray-Saint-Goustan for a wander around this pretty port town (2hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to see Rochefort-en-Terre and the Moulin Neuf for a walk around this reputedly beautiful floral village (4 to 5 hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to Carnac to see the ancient standing stones
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Oysters, cider, white wine, galettes/crepes and buttery Breton biscuits are just a few of the famed local treats.
Fish in a beurre blanc sauce, also known as beurre Nantais is a classic dish for Nantes.
Muscadet is a dry, crisp white wine, the most common wine produced in the Loire region.
Nantes Tourisme gives lots of recommendations for restaurants, creperies and wineries in Nantes. There are even some recipes on there for the classic foods of Nantes
Michelin Travel guide offers up several good food options in and around Vannes, Aubay and Baden - I’d probably book a couple of these in advance. There are even a couple of places with a Michelin star
Other Twin Centre Itineraries
Noto Valley, Sicily - a Spring trip
Travelling in spring, journal and itinerary of my 10 night Sicilian stay in the Noto Valley.
Itinerary At A Glance
10 day independent itinerary for Southeastern Sicily (the region is often referred to as the Noto Valley) staying in hilltop town Scicli
Based on flying in and out of Manchester into Catania on Sicily’s east coast, in April or May
Highlights include taking a tour up Mount Etna, strolling around Sicily’s historic hilltop towns, and seeing ancient Greek architecture at the Valley of the Temples.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Not for me, no. Unfortunately, not one of our better trips and not somewhere we would necessarily recommend or visit again. Main complaints for us were issues with the accommodation but also (controversial opinion I’m sure) we didn’t find the island landscape beautiful really; it is marred with flytipping and endless endless fields of polytunnels for tomatoes. The towns we visited were pretty in the main streets, but the outskirts aren’t.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
No.
10 nights was much too long for us, with not enough of what we like to do to occupy us for this length of time, particularly where we stayed in Scicli - many of the activities we enjoyed were actually quite far from our base. This has taught me to start finding an itinerary of activities first, and then find accommodation to suit that, not the other way round.
Would I make another visit?
I wouldn’t return Scicli or the Noto Valley, and couldn’t recommend it. In hindsight, I think a better base for us in Southeastern Sicily could have been Syracuse/Ortigia island, though Sicily is not on the top of my list after this trip.
WHEN
May
We experienced warm pleasant, sunny weather. I wouldn’t call it hot - we needed trousers and long sleeves, plus a jacket or cardigan most of the time. Despite how hot Sicily will get in the summer, it wasn’t that hot at this point.
TRAVEL MEANS
Manchester direct into Catania, with Easyjet
We hired a car for the entirety of our trip, and it would be impossible to do without it.
Scicli is a 2 hour drive from Catania airport
ACCOMMODATION
Villa Saracena, Contrada Croce, 97018 Scicli, +39 349 648 3018
I cannot recommend this accommodation - we couldn’t stay there the first night (some issue which I can’t remember) so we stayed in one of their sister accommodations. Then part way through the trip we lost all power and water for two full days. This, unfortunately, became a memorable downer on the trip as it became quite stressful not to have those basic amenities. The staff were trying hard, but really, it just felt unacceptable and sort of ruined the stay.
I think I might have taken it on the chin a bit better if the accommodation had been extremely reasonably priced, but it wasn’t - it was comparable with any luxury accommodation in any European destination - so it just felt like they had failed to match their service with the kind that would be expected for that price.
FOOD
It’s hard to have bad food in Italy, and this was certainly the case for our trip, but neither did we have food that was so outstanding I feel compelled to recommend here. If you do go, be absolutely certain you buy yourself some fresh ricotta, and eat it simply on fresh bread, topped with proscuitto and olive oil. This is sublime and you can’t replicate these flavours at home in the UK. A lasting memory of the trip and the island.
ACTIVITIES
Mount Etna 4x4 & Cable Car tour - this was a superb part of the trip, but it is a very long drive from where we stayed in Scicli, at least 2.5 hours each way. Two things to point out - one, be sure to book in advance, and two, you really do need to dress for extremely cold weather for reaching the top. Jeans and a jacket will not cut it, no matter how warm and mild it is at the base of the volcano. This may sound like an very obvious thing to say, but the tour company did not give us any instruction on this point, and while we were much more appropriately dressed than the majority of our fellow tour-goers, we were underdressed for the wickedly strong winds and snow at the summit and it impacted on our ability to enjoy it.
MTB & Sea Kayak Tour Sampieri coast - this would have been great……if my boyfriend didn’t get severely seasick about 20 minutes into the trip. Francesco, our guide, was superb about the whole thing.
Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples) in Agrigento - Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, the Valley of the Temples contains one of the largest archaeological sites in the Mediterranean and is one of the most extensive, representative and best preserved archaeological sites of classical Greek civilisation who were settled in Sicily and the southern part of the Italian peninsula. The Romans called the area of Sicily and the foot of the boot of Italy Magna Graecia (Latin, "Greater Greece"), since it was so densely inhabited by Greeks. This was an absolutely fantastic way to spend the day, and is humbling to wander around the magnificent and ancient structures.
DAY TRIPS & WHERE TO WANDER
Noto - One of the Baroque gems of Sicily and rebuilt from scratch after the 1693 earthquake. We spent a pleasurable half-day wandering around this town and had lunch outside on the pretty main street.
Modica - In the 15th Century, when Modica was under Spanish control, chocolate (xocolatl) was brought from the Aztec areas of South America and they still make chocolate using the ancient recipe. Like Noto, we spent a few hours just wandering around, tried the chocolate and had a coffee. I’d give it 3 out of 5 - not necessarily as awesome as so much online content makes out and I wouldn’t recommend making this your destination - better to stop off here as a way to break up a longer journey to some other place.
Ideas for another visit
Stay in Syracuse/Ortigia island
Riverwalk in Cassibile Gorge - with AirBnB experiences. Just south of Syracuse, a vast, 10 kilometre-long, 300m deep gorge has been bisected by the emerald green Cassibile River, through which a series of fresh water pools and waterfalls tumble. Spend a day hiking, clambering and (if you’re brave enough) taking a dip in the ice-cold water. There are beautiful wildflowers, butterflies and several interesting archaeological ruins here too.
See the troglodytic (cave dwelling) culture of Cava d’Ispica - If you have the time and energy, you can follow the gorge all the way to Ispica town (12km / 3-4 hours), supposedly a lovely walk in springtime.
Vendicari Nature Reserve - A mixture of salt lagoons (pantano), sand dunes, rocky coastlines, and sandy beaches, and thousands of migrating birds pass a few days here on their way to or from Africa with flamingos, herons, storks and cormorants regulars during autumn. It’s reputedly a wonderful environment for a good seaside walk and a picnic. There are no lidos or bars, so it is essential to take what you need with you – water, something to eat, swimsuit and towels. There are three entrances to the park, all off the main Noto-Pachino road. The middle entrance, signposted Torre di Vendicari, gives you the opportunity of heading north or south. Wherever you decide to enter, you will have to park you car and walk some way, though this is a generally thought of as a pleasurable experience.
Sewing projects for a Spring trip
