Uist and Barra in the Outer Hebrides - riding with white sand views
A trip for leisure riding the Outer Hebrides, with a spot of the weaver’s craft thrown in.
Itinerary At A Glance
5-night independent itinerary for the Uist islands and Barra in the Outer Hebrides, based on driving from Yorkshire and using ferries as needed, in early June.
Highlights include circular rides on North Uist and South Uist, with stops at ancient monuments and wild beaches, a fresh seafood platter, a tour of the machair habitat and time to stroll white sands with optional bracing Atlantic dip
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Early June
This is shoulder season - before the main school holidays, so quieter roads and easier bookings. Book ferries and accommodation in advance, but less pressure than July/August.
Weather is mild (average highs 14–15°C), but highly changeable: expect sun, wind, and the odd shower.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 04:30am to 4:26am
Sunset: 10:15pm to 10:31pm
approx. 17-18 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car and ferry, own bikes for activities
Drive to Ullapool, ferry to Lochmaddy, then drive to your base.
Causeways connect North Uist, Bernerary, Benbecula, South Uist, and Eriskay; there is a short ferry connecting Eriskay to Barra, as well as to South Uist and to Oban on the mainland.
Road bikes or hybrids are ideal; all routes are on tarmac, with some optional gravel detours.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Drive north, ferry to Lochmaddy on North Uist
Collect groceries in Lochmaddy
Settle in, short evening walk on the machair
Day 2
Morning bike ride: North Uist loop (Balranald Nature Reserve & beaches)
Round trip, 38km, 180m climbing
wildflowers, birdlife, white sand beaches, stone circle “Pobull Fhinn”, RSPB reserve
Lunch picnic at from The Dunes Cabin
Afternoon: visit Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum & Arts Centre in Lochmaddy or find a local event to visit though Uist.co
Dinner: order and collect a local seafood platter from Lochmaddy Bay Prawns
Day 3
Morning swim: head to the beach for a morning dip
Bike ride: South Ford Causeway – North Uist Causeway loop from Bayhead
Round trip, 78km, 280m climbing
chapel ruins, white sand beaches, causeway
Coffee & Cake: The Oyster Catcher Bakery
Afternoon & Dinner: relax back at base
Day 4
Tour: Learn about the machair habitat on South Uist with Long Island Retreats. 2hrs, 4x4
Collect more supplies from their croft shop before you go
Visit: Mill and wool centre at Uist Wool
Day 5
Brunch: The Scandinavian Bakery at the Grimsay Community Association
Bike ride: Eriskay & South Uist loop on the Hebridean Way
Round trip, 68km, 340m climbing
pristine beaches, coastal views
Dinner: local seafood at Langass Lodge
Day 6
Relaxed morning: beach stroll or swim
Drive home
RIDING IN UIST
Riding here is a joy for confident leisure cyclists.
The terrain is rarely flat, but climbs are short and the roads are quiet. Expect a mix of open moorland, coastal views, and the occasional punchy hill. Attractions are well spaced for half-day or full-day rides, and there’s always a beach or café for a break.
The wind is a constant companion - sometimes a help, sometimes a challenge. Bring layers and be ready for four seasons in a day.
Other Countryside Itineraries
Penzance - biking, brunching and lido-bathing in blackberry season
Spending a spell in Penzance, in late summer. Blackberries, biking, brunch and bathing.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Penzance and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in August
Highlights include Saltwater & Geo-thermal lido, dinner at a harbourside fish restaurant, Museum of Global Communications in Porthcurno and a day trip to the Isles of Scilly
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
The English seaside can be rather a disappointment to me - I’m talking the seaside towns made popular in the Victorian era that have now descended into a recurrent cheap theme of tacky shops, rickety fairground rides, fish & shop shops, arcades and absolutely zero culture worth speaking of.
I wasn’t necessarily expecting Penzance to be this, but you never know with an English seaside town……..there is always the risk………..Penzance was therefore an absolute surprise. What saves it, I think, is that it is a working harbour town, saved from the fate described above, by having actual industry instead. This isn’t a town built on tourism, its a town built on fishing.
In both Newlyn (where we stayed) and in Penzance, we encountered lots and lots of independent shops and eateries, a friendly and relaxed vibe.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
4 days was spot on. Would have been even better to have been able to use the location as a jump off to the Isles of Scilly, but alas, this wasn’t meant to be (see note on schedule below).
The riding is wonderful, but also challenging - we encountered multiple climbs in excess of 10% and same for the descents. This is not riding for the fainthearted, but we were rewarded by regular stops to graze on the ripe and fragrant blackberries that were fruiting in the hedgerows along the side of the road.
The one thing I will say is that this drive was a looooooooooong way from Yorkshire - it took 9 hours in the end due to bits and bats of roadworks, plus some accidents. I would say that the fact we were there in the height of school holiday season - August - contributed to this experience, so would suggest that if you can, make a visit outside these times, or fin som way to break up the journey. No matter when you go, it is at least 7 hours to drive there, and navigating the busy road network through the middle of England is unlikely to go smoothly.
Would I recommend it? Would I make another visit?
Can definitely recommend it, though for us personally, one trip is likely enough. Maybe we’ll go back in another 10 years.
WHEN
August
This is high season for Cornwall, with the kids being off school. Be sure to book early for best availability.
We got warm (not hot), with one rainy day. Expect changeable weather at any time, including strong sun, rain, mist, fog and wind.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 05:51am to 6:36am
Sunset: 21:05pm to 20:08pm
16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car & Road bike
Driving from Yorkshire to Cornwall should be about 7 hours each way but expect more for traffic issues.
Road bike for activities while there.
ACCOMMODATION
This rental on Booking.com
1.5 miles to central Penzance
luxury and modern
well suited for a couple
free parking
outdoor space
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Drive, start in the morning, collect groceries, arrive and settle in
Day 2
Bike ride: Round trip, 25km, 350m climbing. Newlyn-Mousehole-Sancreed-Heamoor-Penzance-Newlyn.
Dinner: in the flat
Day 3
Relax: make breakfast, spend the morning chilling out
Bike ride: Round trip, 40km, 580m climbing. Newlyn-Mousehole-Pourthcurno-Lands End-Sennen Cove-St Buryan-Paul-Newlyn.
Visited the Museum of Global Communications in Porthcurno: in 1870, the first international telegraph cable was brought ashore at Porthcurno, connecting Britain to India and later other parts of the British Empire. By the start of World War II, Porthcurno was a critical hub for allied communications with 14 cables coming ashore, carrying some 70% of all communications. A fantastic place to visit. Really tells the story of the pioneers who made our current world of always-on, rapid communication, possible.
Dinner: Booked at Argoe, harbourside fish restaurant. Excellent. Whole monkfish cooked on the bone over coals, to share. Best monkfish I have ever eaten. Terrace overlooking the working harbour fell silent for the evening.
Day 4
THE ORIGINAL PLAN GOT CANCELLED DUE TO WEATHER!
The plane flying across to the Isles of Scilly is teensy, hence, liable to get cancelled if the weather is not favourable. Sady for us, despite every other day being 22 deg.C and sunny, the day we were booked to travel to St Mary’s, the cloud was very low and visibility was too poor to fly.
Day trip to St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly: Fly from Lands End with Skybus (book early - you are unlikely to grab a seat on the day)
Collect a picnic lunch from Hugh Street Café or Tanglewood Kitchen
Walk the St Marys Island Coastal path: 17km, 3.5h hike
THE BACK-UP PLAN!
Go to The Eden Project
Dinner: easy-breezy modern fish-and-hip shop with a twist, Mackerel Sky
Day 5
Morning swim: Jubliee Pool Saltwater Lido & Geothermal Pool, 1 hour session - you need to book this several days in advance - you are highly unlikely to get a spot on the day. Lovely to bob about in the warm pool. Expect it to be busy.
Brunch: 45 Queen St (strictly walk-ins only, open from 10am, closed Monday & Tuesday). Highly recommended.
Drive home
RIDING IN SOUTHWEST CORNWALL
Riding around Newlyn and Penzance is scenic but not effortless. The terrain isn’t mountainous, but it’s rarely flat - short, punchy climbs and winding roads keep you working. Riding shifts beteen deep shade, to bright sea vistas. It’s a region best suited to confident riders who enjoy a bit of unpredictability: weather, narrow lanes, and the occasional steep descent. That said, there are a lot of road options to choose from, so you can mostly avoid traffic, and the views make it worth the effort.
Ideas for another visit
-
Stay on the Roseland Peninsula, just south of Truro and across the water from Falmouth
-
Bike ride: Take in the whole of West Penwith, starting in Penzance, on this 65km road ride
Visit St Michael’s Mount
Evening Show: at The Minack theatre - advance booking essential
Visit Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens (gardens open daily 10.30am – 5.30pm, though Gallery closed Sunday and Mondy) with lunch at Tremenheere Kitchen
Newlyn Art Gallery & Exchange- this gallery has loads of events, including vintage fairs happen in the Autumn, textile workshops and Newlyn art walking tours happening on just 4 to 6 dates in the spring and summer. These need to be booked well in advance, with
Golowan Festival is a 10-day festival of arts, performances, culture and parades. It’s the UK’s second largest street festival and happens in June.
Penzance Art Festival is also on in June
-
Breakfast at Artist Residence
Supper club at Chapel House Penzance
Visit Nancarrow Farm for one of their famed Feasts or Sunday Lunch with home-reared organic meat
Visit Potager Garden for brunch (near Falmouth)
Other Countryside Itineraries
Pembrokeshire in Winter with mountain biking and boutique hotel
Itinerary journal of my winter break in Pembrokeshire. Biking, boutique hotel and Michelin food.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 day independent itinerary for Pembrokeshire in South Wales, based on driving from Leeds, in February
Highlights include mountain biking, a trip to St Davids, winter hike with mysterious standing stones, and staying at Grove of Narberth with 4 AA rosette fine-dining
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
We’d never been to Pembrokeshire, and winter felt like the right time to explore somewhere new without the crowds. Most of the UK stays open year-round, even if a few attractions close — so we decided to chance our arm and see what this corner of Wales had to offer off-season.
It was an anniversary trip, so we treated ourselves to a luxury boutique hotel stay — made sweeter by off-peak prices.
The only thing we couldn’t plan, was the weather. All we dared hope for was dry………..we got our wish.
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday?
We definitely enjoyed this trip - a great off-season alternative for visiting South Wales which is much more typically a summertime destination. The UK actually experiences a very mild winter, with temperatures below zero a fairly uncommon ocurrence, so if you can dress accordingly, many of the outdoor exploring options like hiking and biking remain viable activities even in our coldest months. This is what I was banking on for this trip, and it came good.
Does the place live up to expectations?
Yes and no. The hotel was absolutely outstanding - cannot recommend enough. The Pembrokshire region though, was not my favourite place we have visited in the UK , and I do think we have more beautiful and more picturesque countryside, with a greater variety of things to do. In Wales itself, the North has much more dramatic landscapes and other spots offer better mountain biking. None of this is to say it isn’t worth a visit, but I would say for me, other places hold more appeal.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely - it was the perfect blend of active and restful, mucky and refined, and a great option for the off-season. We were lucky with the weather, as we could have gotten very cold and snowy conditions, but also had back-up options in case that happened.
Would I make another visit?
As much as this was a great trip, particularly considering the fact that it was mid-winter, I can’t personally see myself returning to this part of Wales again; other parts of Wales have more dramatic scenery and more history that I would rather visit instead.
WHEN
February
This is very much off-season for February, so quiet, and many of the typical tourist attracttions may be closed over the winter. An ideal time to enjoy the more local-focused activities and hangouts.
We got cold, dry and cloudy. May be freezing with snow.
LIGHT
Short-ish days
Sunrise: 07:39am
Sunset: 17:28pm
10 hours of daylight
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed at Grove of Narberth
This place was marvellous - very possibly the best hotel we have ever stayed in. Boutique, welcoming, incredibly welcoming and stylish decor, and outstanding service with a superlative restaurant on site. Highly highly recommended.
TRAVEL MEANS
Car & Bike
Driving from Yorkshire to Pembrokeshire, with an overnight rest-stop in Snowdonia on the way down. About 6 hours each way.
Mountain Bike for activities whilst there.
SCHEDULE
DAY 1 - Wednesday
Drove Leeds to Coed y Brenin Trail Centre for a half-day mountain biking
Overnight in George III Pub with Rooms
DAY 2 - Thursday
Drove along the Coastal Way from Snowdonia to Narberth
Rest stop in Cardigan at Crwst: very enjoyable visit to this fantastic spot for breakfast, brunch or coffee. Open, industrial, proper bakery - top notch
Walk: Pentre Ifan walking circular - 6.85km
Check-in & Dinner at Grove of Narberth
DAY 3 - Friday
Bike ride: Local route out from Grove of Narberth
Visit St Davids: holder of the title “smallest city in the United Kingdom by population and urban area.” This place is truly teensy, more like a village
Fish & Chip dinner: The Shed, Porthgain. You would never happen upon this place - beautifully positioned at the mouth of a tiny inlet that would once have been a fishing community. Informal, local, buzzing. Recommended
DAY 4 - Saturday
Bike ride: red route at Llys-y-frân reservoir
Dinner: Fernery Restaurant at Grove of Narberth, holder of 4 AA Rosettes. Absolutely outstanding from start to finish.
DAY 5 - Sunday
Drove home
Back-up plans for rainy days
Pembroke Castle (open 10am to 4pm during winter)
National Trust Tudor Merchant's House in Tenby
See the Last Invasion Tapestry at Fishguard Library
See an art exhibition at Oriel Y Parc Landscape Gallery & Visitor Centre
Plans for another trip
Bwlch Nant yr Arian Forest Visitor Centre (touted as one of the most beautiful trail centres in Wales, with a Red Kite feeding centre on site)
Other Countryside Itineraries
Norfolk - Summer riding
Itinerary for a short weekend cycling break near the North Norfolk Coast.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Holt and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in mid-August
Highlights include a boutique hotel stay, long road ride around North Norfolk, and fish and chips at the seaside
Based on a couple travelling
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Outstanding.
I would hear people announce how flat Norfolk, and while that might be true, before I visited, it led me to believe flat meant boring - not so. The landscape, the villages, the gardens………it felt like a view was peeking out around every corner and it was oh, so, quiet.
A spectacular introduction to Norfolk, leaving us eager for more.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Yes….and no, in that we could easily have stayed longer (there is enough to do), and this was quite a long drive for just 2 nights. A cycling weekend is perfectly perfectly suited for Norfolk though; a framework I would look to replicate again.
Would I make another visit?
Definitely; even this same area around Holt would warrant another trip for us.
WHEN
August
We got spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.
Can be changeable.
TRAVEL MEANS
Car + Road bike
Drive from Leeds takes about 4 hours
ACCOMMODATION
The Harper, Hotel
boutique, luxury
intimate
fantastic restaurant
impeccable, yet thoroughly modern service
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the morning, settle in
Dinner: At The Harper
Day 2 - Saturday
Ride: Long road-ride loop around Holt, 73km (gpx download here)
Coffee & Cake Stop: Heydon Village Tea Rooms - absolutely delightful, in a pictureque village setting
Fish & Chip Supper at the Seaside: French’s, Wells-next-the-Sea - be prepared for a very, very long queue!
Day 3 - Sunday
Spa & Sauna morning: The Harper allows you to pre-book the pool, hot tub and sauna on an exclusive use basis for 30-minute sessions
Breakfast at the hotel
Drive home
Ideas for another trip
-
Visit Sandringham during the winter, for its annual light trail ‘Luminate Sandringham’
Tour The Boards National Park on a bike - 125 miles of navigable waterways – more than Amsterdam or Venice. The Broads was originally dug out in medieval times to provide peat for fuel. In the 14th century, these peat diggings flooded, creating the beautiful waterways we see today.
Visit Norwich - best-preserved medieval city in England (the Industrial Revolution left it unscathed because of a lack of fast-running water), largest permanent covered market in Europe, only city within a British National Park, hosts Europe’s best-protected chalk river and it was England’s first City of Literature.
Visit Norwich Castle Museum (undergoing a major renovation project, set to re-open 2025)
See a show at Cromer’s end-of-pier theatre
See Grey seal pups at Blakeney Point during the winter, when the mums come ashore to have their young
See red deer on the Holkham Estate in the winter
-
Stay at The Victoria Hotel on the Holkham Estate (accepts dogs)
Stay at The Wiveton Bell (accepts dogs)
-
Dine at Meadowsweet in Holt
Other Itineraries for Exploring with Bikes
Rye, East Sussex - biking, castles and wine in high Summer
From Leeds to Rye, East Sussex, on the south coast of England, my itinerary journal of our summer staycation.
Why Rye?
Rye’s distinction lies in being a medieval coastal merchant town that got rich through its being a member of the confederation of Cinque Ports from the 12th to the 15th century.
This group of towns across nowadays Kent and East Sussex were granted the local profits of justice in return for providing and maintaining ships ready for English Crown to use in case of need, principally in defence of invasion or attack by Danish or French forces. This role of maintaining defence contingents for the realm of England came with some benefits; namely some tax exemptions and a level of self-government and self-jurisdiction. In addition, their being ports meant trade and mercantile activities, which typically lead to wealth generation.
While all of that is long in the past, Rye has maintained much of its quaint and meandering medieval architecture and has reinvented itself as a tourist destination.
The area itself is also just at the edge of the High Weald National Landscape, a beautiful area of green and rolling hills, medieval manors and English winemaking.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Rye, East Sussex - on the south coast of England, right on the border with Kent
Based on driving from Yorkshire in July
Highlights include a visit to Bodiam Castle, cycling the gorgeous green-and-rolling countryside through pretty and historic towns and villages, and tour with tasting at an English vineyard
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Did the place live up to hype or expectations?
This area of the UK doesn’t seem to get any attention as a possible holiday region but I can truly attest that this is a gorgeous part of the country, ideally suited to a long break with all the makings of a great spot for a holiday. We found idyllic countryside, history-aplenty, unique architecture, some marvellous eateries, and well-surfaced and quiet roads (and many singletrack lanes) that were ideal for cycling. It felt peaceful, affluent, with plenty to do and not at all thronged with tourists.
Now, despite the hype on social media about Rye, Rye is worth maximum, one day of your time. A few hours will easily do it. What I would recommend is choosing to stay somewhere in the countryside around Rye because it is just so darn lovely.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Yes - 4 days is an ideal length of time to explore the area, for a relaxed mix of biking, history, food and relaxation.
I have said it before and I will say it again - 4 nights, Monday to Friday is a superb option for a staycation - feels like a full week off work, long enough to truly escape the daily routine and relax, but short enough that it doesn’t feel like overmuch in a place that is still essentially home.
Would I make another visit?
I could see us returning, not exactly to this location, but to the wider region of Kent and East Sussex for another summer staycation.
TRAVEL MEANS
Driving from Yorkshire took 5hr 45mins
It is a long distance, but that really contributed to the feeling of ‘going on holiday’ for me
ACCOMMODATION
Oast House - buildings designed and used for for kilning (drying) hops as part of the brewing process. They can be found in most hop-growing (and former hop-growing) areas and many have now been converted to houses - they are very distinctive and all over this region and not found much in other parts of the UK.
a delightful little self-contained annex
perfectly proportioned for a couple
very much ‘of its place’
a chance to stay in something quite traditional (low ceilings, stone walls, exposed beams, walled garden etc.) without having to hire out a large property - which is usually the case for this type of accom
just outside of Rye
National Cycle Network Route 2 just behind the house.
Day 1
Drive in the morning, collect groceries, arrive and settle in
For supplies, we shopped at both Jempsons and Rye Deli - both great examples of local food retailers offering great produce
Day 2
Visited Bodiam Castle: 30 min drive or 1hr 15m cycle from Rye, an archetypal 14th century moated castle with ruined interior - a glimpse of medieval splendour
Cycled around Bedgebury National Pinetum & Forest: 8 mile red singletrack route
Drinks & Dinner in Rye: Had some excellent bottled Belgian beers at The Outside Inn in central Rye. Dined at Tatners Street Kitchen in Rye - very modern casual dinery serving up the current on-trend American-style goodies like slow-cooked meats in buns, dirty fries, hotdogs and the like. Easy, tasty and atmospheric
Day 3
Breakfast: at Tibbs ‘Pick Your Own’ Farm - just up the road, a pick-your-own soft fruits farm and cafe with a superb view over the valley below. Fruits were in season when we were there. Highly recommended for a snacky breakfast or coffee and cake.
Long bike ride: Took in the sights on the bikes, following (most of) the Sustrans route: 20-mile Rye and Winchelsea Circular. A fairly challenging route on a mountain bike, with plenty of ups and downs for a physical challenge, and predominantly done on single-track country lanes. Very do-able on a hybrid or road bike also
Day 4
Relaxed & wandered around Rye: made breakfast, spend the morning chilling out then spent the morning having a wander around Rye
Late Afternoon Vineyard Tour, Wine Testing & Dinner: at Tillingham (20 min drive from Rye), a young and lively bio-dynamic vineyard just outside of Rye. Along with dinner at their superb restaurant, this was one of the highlights of our trip. I am no wine connoisseur, but still fascinating to attend their tasting event and learn more about their wines, English wines, the winemaking process and how they are attempting some radical practices in the pursuit of making great wine.
Day 5
Drove home
-
Have breakfast, lunch, or dinner at The Figin Central Rye
Sissinghurst Castle Garden- a world-renowned garden
Walking tour of Rye's Huguenot history using theGeotourist app.
Cycle around Bewel Water (13 miles) - round reservoir route is open to cyclists, horses and walkers and is made up of forest paths, surfaced trails, country lanes and meadows
Visit Farley’s House & Gallery - former home of Lee Miller and Roland Penrose; Pablo Picasso stayed in 1950, and Max Ernst, Joan Miró, Man Ray, Leonora Carrington and Dorothea Tanning visited from overseas whilst Eileen Agar, Kenneth Armitage, William Turnbull, John Craxton and Richard Hamilton formed the British contingent. Works by many of these artists are displayed in the house in a selection that regularly changes as items are loaned to exhibitions in galleries around the world
Picnic on Camber Sands – a stretch of pale sand with a backdrop of massive dunes.
VisitGreat Dixter House – home of gardening writer and general place of pilgrimage for anyone interested in horticulture
Take a steam train through the Weald aboard the Kent & East Sussex Railway, travelling in the style of the steam train era. There are normally two steam hauled departures per Saturday & Sunday:
The morning departure leaves Tenterden at 10:40am and arrives at Bodiam at 11:30am. It then departs Bodiam at approximately 11:45am, arriving back in Tenterden at 12:32pm.
The afternoon departure leaves Tenterden at 1:15pm, arrives at Bodiam at 2:00pm, before departing at approximately 2:15pm, arriving back in Tenterden at 3:07pm.
For a more established vineyard, visitChapel Down
Tastes of the British Isles
Central Cornwall - an active mid-week stay in Spring
Itinerary journal of my springtime holiday in Cornwall. Where we ate, what we saw and how we enjoyed biking around the countryside.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 day independent itinerary for Central-Eastern Cornwall, based on driving from Leeds, in April
Highlights include Charlestown, Tintagel castle, dinner at Rick Stein’s, biking the Camel Trail and of course, eating famous Cornish treats like the pasty and cream tea
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to expectations?
The only reason I booked this was that the pandemic forced me to consider staycation options. I myself have never paid attention to Cornwall, resistant mainly because it felt like too ‘obvious’ a choice, and since novel and unfamiliar cultural experiences is one of the main reasons I enjoy travel, holidaying on UK soil is usually very low down the list of options. Needs must in this case. Research turned up interesting historical sites, strong food culture and a countryside ideal for exploration by bike which is all the typical hallmarks of a destination we enjoy, so I booked.
Despite this, I still felt a bit bratty about it before we went; like I was being punished and not being allowed to travel abroad so this was like a version of being grounded…………..but having been and come back, I have completely amended my viewpoint.
Cornwall is not famous for nothing! I think its reputation a holiday destination is well-deserved - the countryside is attractive, there is plenty to see and do wherever you are in the peninsula and the food is great. I found the North Coast less attractive than the South Coast. It also felt like an island to me when we were there; the sea is almost always in view, which adds to the illusion of being ‘away’.
Turns out, staying in the UK can be just as enjoyable a holiday as going abroad, especially if the purpose is to just relax and enjoy some simple pleasures.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Cornwall is a very very long way from Yorkshire, so travelling such a distance means a weekend is really out of the question.
4 nights felt spot on for us - this was my Mum’s suggestion and one I will use again - 7 full nights would probably feel like too much for us in the UK.
She also recommended we stay Monday to Friday which was genius; you get the weekend before and after which both gives you time to organise yourself and also sort of ‘elongates’ the holiday into still feeling like a full week off work.
Side bonus is that Mon-Thu rates are oftentimes a touch cheaper than the weekends.
We had a mixture of activity, culture and history; and there wasy plenty more to do besides where we got to.
Would I make another visit?
In short, despite my reservations, I would, and probably will, go back.
WHEN
April
Very end of Spring
LIGHT & WEATHER
Long days, likely warm (not hot)
Sunrise: 06:56am to 05:57am
Sunset: 19:52pm to 20:38pm
14-15 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car & Bike
Driving from Yorkshire to Cornwall, with an overnight rest-stop in Bristol on the way down. About 6.5 hours each way.
Bike for activities whilst there.
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed in this Airbnb
This place was marvellous - very rurally located, luxury and modern, extremely well suited for a couple, with a fabulous little Japanese-style deep-seated bath and outdoor barbeque. Highly highly recommended.
SCHEDULE
DAY 1
Drive to Bristol; overnight in a Travelodge
DAY 2
Drive from Bristol, settle in
Biked The Camel Trail: a disused railway line that has been converted into an easy, mostly flat, bike trail
Cream tea at Tim’s Place in Wadebridge: very enjoyable and very attentive service (particularly for a cafe - felt more like proper restaurant waitress service)
Dined on the outdoor roof terrace at Rick Stein’s The Seafood Restaurant - this was when outdoor eating was the only option and admittedly, it was a bit too chilly to really fully enjoy it but we were so thrilled just to be in a restaurant, we still had a good time. Food, service and setting were all lovely.
DAY 3
Biked from Charlestown to The Lost Gardens of Heligan along Route 3 of the National Cycle Network - about 1hr each way. Enjoyed a leisurely afternoon wandering the ground and gardens before returning to Charlestown
DAY 4
Visited English Heritage site, Tintagel Castle. It is deservedly famous this place - a very large and imposing ruin of a castle perched on the north coast and spread over a large area. We spent a good few hours walking around imagining what it would have been like hundreds and hundreds of years ago. Recommended, especially as an off-weather day (which we had) - the blustery overcast and changeable weather just added to the atmosphere.
DAY 5
Had breakfast at St Kew Farmshop: this was KNOCKOUT!! Its a place for locals, so well off the tourist trail and you need a car to reach it, but it is worth it. Cafe and Farmshop combined, we had a delicious and healthy breakfast of pimped-up mushrooms on toast and a sausage-cheese English Muffin, and purchased local beef steak and asparagus for a barbecue at our accommodation later in the stay. They also have a lovely outdoor seating area looking over a small garden. Highly highly recommended
Wandered around Fowey (pronounced ‘foy’): a delightful little town on the south coast filled with independent shops and outlets. Just meandered the steep and narrow streets, drank coffee, soaked up the vibe, perused the little shops and admired the street art. If I was to recommend a place to stay in Cornwall, this would be it - the nicest town we visited on our stay
Ate freshly baked Cornish pasties from both Malcolm Barnecutts in Wadebridge, and Sarah’s Pasty Shop in Looe - both excellent. Controversially, the Cheese & Onion was my favourite
DAY 6
Drive home
Ideas for another visit
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Stay in Falmouth for a bit of an arty ‘city break’
Stay in Penzance for close proximity to Lands End and access to the Scilly Isles - itinerary here
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Stay in this converted Engine House for a uniquely Cornish accommodation
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Visit the Museum of Global Communications in Porthcurno - apparently, in 1870, the first international telegraph cable was brought ashore at Porthcurno, connecting Britain to India and later other parts of the British Empire. By the start of World War II, Porthcurno was a critical hub for allied communications with 14 cables coming ashore, carrying some 70% of all communications. Looks fascinating
Book in to see a performance at The Minack Theatre - an open air theatre on the cliffside overlooking the sea
Visit Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens near Penzance
Go to The Eden Project - on everyone’s list really, but unfortunately closed when we visited
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Visit Nancarrow Farm for one of their famed Feasts or Sunday Lunch with home-reared organic meat
Summer Sewing projects for a UK staycation
