A-line skirt in bright red serge wool twill
Using a 1990’s pattern, details on total make time, adjustments and seam finishes, and lessons learnt.
TOTAL TIME COMMITMENT: 6 hours
Toile (with buttons but no lining, interior seam finishing, basting stitch removal or hemming): none
Cut out & transfer all pattern markings: 1 hour
Main construction: 4.5 hours
Lining construction: none
Finishings (hooks, hem): 1.5 hour
ADDITIONAL SEAM FINISHING & DECORATIVE EXTRAS
Each side of the seam allowance was overlocked before stitching
Went with an overlock with single fold hem because I attempted a blind hem, but it didn’t take all the way round, and I didn’t want to unpick it and potentially ruin the overlocking so just stitched it
VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNT
Attached the zip too high up on the centre back seam – have to draw this over my head.
This was an INCREDIBLY easy skirt to sew together and I absolutely love this, what I am calling ‘trench-weight’ wool. It is so smooth, so drapey, great handle, and yet still has a touch of structure. Been wearing it in London today actually and not found it very creasy at all. Looks amazing with my Jaeger navy wool trench which is in a similar fabric.
Other 1990’s Sewing Projects
Button-up box-pleat skirt from McCalls 7906
Lessons learnt from making a box-pleated midi skirt, in a midweight twill, using a Y2K pattern.
TOTAL TIME COMMITMENT: 8 hours
Toile: 3 hours
Cut out & transfer all pattern markings: 2 hours
Main construction: 7.5 hours
Lining construction: none
Finishings (hem): 4.5 hours
ADDITIONAL SEAM FINISHING & DECORATIVE EXTRAS
Overlocked each side of the side seam before stitching
Used a triple stitch for the deep hem, instead of changing to a topstitch thread
Rounded buttonholes
VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNT
I do not like this fabric – too bright, too stiff. I will not wear this skirt.
Also, the fabric is waaaaay too heavy for this amount of box pleating. The area at the waist is particularly bulky and the facing has a tendency to roll outwards. The unusual thing here is that the suggested fabrics are Sateen, Chino, Cotton Blends and Twill. For me, this skirt must be made in a lightweight fabric such as poplin, shirting or lawn.
For all this box pleating and bulkiness, I don’t need pockets; adds too much bulk at the hip area.
Other Skirt Sewing projects
A-line skirt in electric blue cotton twill from Vogue 7210
Midi skirt with contour waistband, using a Y2K Style pattern. Experimenting with a robust and stiff fabric for this design.
TOTAL TIME COMMITMENT: 8 hours
Toile: 3 hours
Cut out & transfer all pattern markings: 1 hour
Main construction: 2.5 hours
Lining construction: none
Finishings (hem): 1.5 hours
ADDITIONAL SEAM FINISHING & DECORATIVE EXTRAS
Each side of the seam allowance was overlocked before stitching
VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNT
A very easy thing to make but do not like this fabric – too bright, too stiff. Will not wear this skirt
Not a bad fit but could need a few tweaks for different fabrics as it sits just a tad low on my waist.
For a sturdier fabric might be better to taper the waist a little without changing the hips
For a finer or more delicate fabric, this is the correct fit
An A-line skirt in Designer’s Guild cotton duck
Experimenting with Designer’s Guild upholstery fabric………..I asked myself: ”how well can cotton duck be applied to dressmaking?”……..what I learnt
TOTAL TIME COMMITMENT: 10 hours
Toile: none
Cut out & transfer all pattern markings: 1 hour
Main construction: 6 hours
Lining construction: none
Finishings (hem): 3 hours
ADDITIONAL SEAM FINISHING & DECORATIVE EXTRAS
Added 4 rows of topstitching to each vertical seam on the skirt, mainly as a way to enclose the raw edges on the inside
Bias-bound hem
Bias-bound pocket bags
VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNT
I do not like the final product – fabric is easy to sew, but it’s far too stiff to wear.
Still not managing to fit the waistband correctly – this has turned out too big again at 30”. Need a better technique for fitting the waistband to ensure the finished garment is a perfect fit on me.
VARIATION IDEAS
I would like to try it again in a much more lightweight fabric (perhaps even a slightly sheer in a double layer?)
Other Skirt Sewing Projects
A drop-waist skirt from 1990’s Style 4987 pattern
Making a drop-waist skirt for a petite frame with high waist-to-hip ratio. Lessons learnt.
TOTAL TIME COMMITMENT: 28 hours including toile (note this skirt is unlined)
Toile (with buttons but no lining, interior seam finishing, basting stitch removal or hemming): 12 hours
Cut out & transfer all pattern markings: 2 hours
Main construction: 8 hours
Lining construction: none
Finishings (buttons, hem): 6 hours
SEAM FINISHING & DECORATIVE EXTRAS
Front to back skirt seam – French seam
Narrow double hem
Handworked buttonholes
VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNT
I have a high waist-to-hip ratio with a generous booty. Drop-waist skirts are not typically something I can buy ready-made so what a dream to be abl to make one for myself. I love the final product.
I also learned how to handwork button holes on this project and I’m so glad – this opens up many many more garment-making opportunities now, and it is something I have been putting off learning and the result is that I have shied away from some patterns.
This fabric I chose is a beautiful thing, and the resulting finished skirt is bold, dramatic, and holds its shape well. However, it is medium to heavy weight, and sewing several layers together means that some seams were both difficult to sew and a bit bulky in the end. In addition, the sturdiness of this fabric could also possibly accommodate a slightly more snug fit, as it won’t be stressed in the same way as a more delicate one would.
There are two interior seams that I had to leave raw as I couldn’t work out any better ways to finish them. One, I pinked; the other I left completely raw. I don’t think this skirt should have a lining so figuring out a neater way to finish the interior will take some thought.
I graded between size 14 and size 16 between the waist and hip line but the fit is still not absolutely perfect. I still find the waist is a little big and for some reason still unknown to me, I found that the yoke was too big for the waistband and had to sew the side seams again to a slightly smaller size before attaching the waistband. Perhaps next time I make this, I should just make the size 14.
I also learnt a little struggling to ease the fullness of the circle skirt into the bottom of the yoke – the pattern piece that needs easing can use a slightly smaller seam allowance and when sewing, I should always sew from the side of the fuller piece to control and prevent puckering.
My machine seemed to really struggle with the tension of the top stitching thread. It always seems the top thread was too loose with lots of loops showing on the underside. The topstitching thread gives great sheen but I might try the upholstery thread next time, see if my machine can handle it better
VARIATION IDEAS
I would like to try it again in a much more lightweight fabric (perhaps even a slightly sheer in a double layer?)