Collar Families
Collars can be grouped into categories: Flat, Stand, Roll, Lapel-based, Draped, Tie & Bow, Integrated
How to Change a Pattern Neckline
Once you know what you want from a neckline, the next step is making it work on a pattern.
Neckline Proportion: Width, Depth and Balance
Once shape is working in your favour, proportion comes into play. Width and depth often matter just as much as the specific style of neckline.
Wearing colour well can become walking in art
Colour is foundational to the dressmaker’s art and the wearer’s style. Finding the right route, and a nuanced and depthful approach to colour takes time, but pays dividends.
Square neck tiered midi dress in Liberty Heidi cotton poplin
Perfected the fit, and finally making with an expensive fabric, Liberty’s cotton poplin. Detailed dressmaking closeups.
Pleated blouse in wool flannel from 1970’s Gunne Sax pattern
After some significant design amendments, made a cropped blouse in micro-houndstooth wool flannel. Lessons learnt.
Puff-sleeve midi dress in khaki green linen-cotton twill from 1970’s pattern
Fourth make with this pattern, following several refinements on fit and pattern instructions.
A-line skirt in bright red serge wool twill
Using a 1990’s pattern, details on total make time, adjustments and seam finishes, and lessons learnt.
High-waisted trousers in smooth serge wool twill
Working with a 1970’s Vogue Basic Design pattern, details on total make time, adjustments, seam finishes, and lessons learnt.
Boat neck summer dress with tie back in a novelty print cotton
Journal of making a dress with boat-neck, shaped underbust seam and large tie bow at the back.
Man’s shirt in grey wool flannel from Simplicity 8753
Fine wool flannel, from a modern Simplicity pattern. Beautiful shirting fabric, even though few use it this way.
Button-up box-pleat skirt from McCalls 7906
Lessons learnt from making a box-pleated midi skirt, in a midweight twill, using a Y2K pattern.
A-line skirt in electric blue cotton twill from Vogue 7210
Midi skirt with contour waistband, using a Y2K Style pattern. Experimenting with a robust and stiff fabric for this design.
Ultra wide leg flat-front trousers from Burda 6966
The simplicity, elegance and sophistication of sewing trousers in single wool crepe.
A tent dress in Liberty crepe-de-chine from Very Easy Vogue 8593
Reflections on the first time working with silk. Main lesson: crepe-de-chine is difficult to cut out…
A scoop neck tiered sundress from a 1970’s Butterick 7012 pattern
Going off-piste, using quilting cotton for a simple summer tiered dress with topstitching.
Princess seamed dress with short puff-sleeves from 1980’s Style 4603 pattern
First time sewing princess seams, first time sewing with proper shirting fabric.
A floral needlecord dress from 1970’s Style 1169 pattern
Third make with this pattern, following several refinements on fit and pattern instructions.
Cotton lawn dress from Givenchy 1970’s Vogue Paris Original 1950 pattern
Shortening a 1970’s Givenchy pattern I have worked with before, turning midi into mini, my journal on making this dress in Pima cotton lawn in a busy print.
A spring coat in moss green cotton-linen twill from 1960’s Simplicity 5984 pattern
There’s an absense of outerwear for spring that actually offers warmth but isn’t made from wool. My journal on making my first fully lined spring coat, with cotton flannel interlining for warmth.