A Summer drive-and-ride through Belgium & Northern France
Itinerary journal of my summer tour through the Belgian Ardennes and Northern France. Bikes very much mandatory.
Itinerary At A Glance
14 night independent touring itinerary for Belgium and France, taking a coast-to-coast route starting in Rotterdam, finishing in Cherbourg
Based on driving from Leeds, with bikes, using ferry transport from Hull to Rotterdam, back into the UK from Cherbourg
Highlights include Belgian beer, a cycle ride through water, visiting the ghostly remains of an F1 race track from the 1960s, cycling the river-strewn landscape of the Loire Valley, picnic at Chateau de L’Islette, The Bayeaux Tapestry, and D-Day museum at Arromanches-les-Bains.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
This was our very first trip taking our car from Leeds across into Europe, and so, to make this introductory experience as easy as possible, we chose to make the driving the least onerous we could by not venturing too far into the continent.
Northern Europe is a lovely place to spend the summer; verdant, warm, buzzing with the life of festivals and outdoorsing often denied to us in the colder, wetter months. Throughout this region, there is a palpable excitement that summer is here, and a determinedness to enjoy it while we can.
We chose Wallonia for its forested hills, quiet roads, and brewing heritage. Reims offered a counterpoint — not for champagne, but for the haunting remains of a forgotten F1 circuit. The Loire Valley is the land of river and chateaux. The riding promised was easy, quiet, and punctuated with ample towns, villages, markets, chateaux, vineyards and culture. Normandy, with its layered history and coastal charm, rounded out the journey with something a little more serious - warttime history and medieval tapestry.
Every location on this trip offered excellent biking opportunities - whether that’s leisurely pootles or long-distance leg-burners - as well as discovery, and rest. A kind of slow travel that lets the landscape unfold at the speed of a bike.
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
One of the very best holidays we have ever taken, ever. I don’t think it is possible for France to disappoint, such is the density of loveliness, culture and history, but Belgium was an unexpected surprise, totally exceeding our expectations in every way.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Perfectly. Not too much driving, but enough to cover some real distance between place to place. Travelling in the car this way, we also got to see parts of Holland, Belgium and France that we would probably never visit if it meant making a dedicated holiday there.
Would I make another visit?
Certainly - with the exception of Champagne region. While we had a good time there, this was my least favourite spot, but Belgium, Loire Valley and Normandy held so much appeal, with many more options for a visit than we could fit into this trip.
WHEN
July
Very warm and sunny was what we experienced for the full two weeks, though I was prepared for some occasional overcast or rainy days which failed to come.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 06:01am to 06:33am
Sunset: 22:10pm to 21:42pm
15-16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Ferry from Hull into Rotterdam, and out of Cherbourg into Poole
We obviously took our car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as road bikes attached with a carrier.
ROUTE & STOPS
Drive 1,407 km, 16 hours, over 14 days
Ferry Hull into Rotterdam (overnight crossing); drive to Belgian Ardennes for a 3 night stay; stop off at Delft for breakfast and Genk for Ride Thru The Water
Drive from Belgian Ardennes to Reims (Champagne region) for a 2 night stay
Drive from Reims to Loire Valley for a 5 night stay; stop off at Montargis along the way
Drive from Loire Valley to Caen; stop off at Le Mans along the way
Ferry Cherbourg to Poole; drive back to Yorkshire
Image of full route with all stops
ACCOMMODATION
Reims
Centrally located, clean, modern, large apartment. Only issue was a lack of parking and note that Reims operates a Low Emission Zone, for which you need to have a permit before you arrive in France.
Loire Valley
Idyllic. Large kitchen, private outdoor area, ample space for two, fairly rurally located in quick and easy access to the quiet country lanes perfect for road cycling with space in the hallway for bikes. Recommended.
near Caen
Garage-turned-holiday let, this was a lovely little compact space in a residential village on the outskirts of Caen, with a bakery and pizza restaurant in town. Ideal for cycling, with space in the hallway for bikes. Recommended.
SCHEDULE
Canals in Delft
Day 1 - Drive to Wallonia, with stop-offs in Delft and Genk
Had breakfast in Delft - it was glorious. To my mind, nowhere on earth does ‘cute town’ like the Dutch, and Delft is no exception. Sat by the canal on a warm Monday morning, enjoying Roze koek and Gevulde koek alongside a good coffee, and watched the town come gently to life.
Stopped off in Genk to Ride-Thru-The-Water and made use of the excellent Points-Noeuds system
Durbuy, and the surrounding countryside
Day 1 to 4 - Wallonia
3 nights
Cycled around the Belgian Ardennes, using Visit Wallonia for downloadable .gpx routes.
Dined at miniature little bistro, Ardelle, in Rochefort
Durbuy is a fantastic destination for a bike ride, surrounded by open farmlands with paved cycle routes snaking through
RIDING IN WALLONIA
Wallonia offers varied terrain. The southern areas near the Ardennes are steep and challenging — great for experienced cyclists looking for serious climbs. In contrast, the northern part near the Flanders border is more moderately hilly and better suited to relaxed touring.
This region is ideal for touring: quiet country roads, manageable gradients, and plenty of small towns and villages to stop in.
We found the riding here to be well-balanced and it’s a great region for combining cycling with other interests like food, beer, and local crafts, especially if you plan your routes to include stops or destination activities.
Day 5 - Drive between Belgian Ardennes & Reims
About 165km, 2hrs driving
Stocked up on beer before we left Belgium.
Reim-Gueux race track, former pitlane
Day 5 to 7 - Reims
2 nights
Cycled from Reims out to the abandoned Formula 1 circuit, Reims-Gueux, whose orginal structures including the grandstands, pit buildings and timing tower, still stand today and are preserved as historical landmarks and maintained by local enthusiasts. Eerie and magical, a perfect destination for a road ride before making our way to the more known pastoral landscapes of the Champagne villages and then routing back into Reims
Day 7 - Drive between Reims & Loire Valley
About 480km, 5hr 30mins driving
To break up the long drive, we stopped at Montargis for coffee, cake and a leg stretch. This isn’t a place to go out of your way to visit, but was a decently cute town with plenty of life and options for coffee and baked goods.
Loire Valley scenery
Day 7 to 12 - Loire Valley
5 nights
Picnic’d with live music at Chateau de L'Islette - a highlight of the stay. This place is fairytale stuff, with the River Indre meandering through the grounds, flanked by bridges, lawns and billowing flora. On Fridays and Saturdays throughout July and August, you can buy tickets for their open air picnic with live music; just turn up with your loved ones, blankets, food and drink to enjoy the evening.
RIDING IN THE LOIRE VALLEY
The Loire is ideal for very relaxed, scenic riding. Even beginners and very occasional cyclists will not struggle here. The terrain is mostly flat, with quiet roads and well-marked cycle routes that wind through vineyards, riverside paths, and historic towns. It’s perfect for multi-day touring with cultural stops — châteaux, markets, and wine tastings are never far off. Some of our rides includes:
62km ride taking in Azay-le-Rideau, Langeais and Villandry - Langeais is a picturesque town right on the banks of the Loire and is well worth a stop. There is a market on a Sunday morning that is worth making your destination.
57 km ride taking in Loches, Montrésor and Chedigny - the ‘village-garden’ of Chedigny is a particularly worthwhile waypoint for a road ride.
54km ride to see Rivarennes……funny place this, bit of a ghost town really, clinging deperately to the heritage craft of dried pears.
Day 12 - Drive between Loire Valley & Caen
About 270km, 2hr 45mins driving
We made sure to route through Le Mans to drive the Mulsanne Straight, Inidianapolis and Arnage Corners (all of which is public road when not on a race day).
The Bayeux Tapestry exhibit
Day 12 to 14 - near Caen
Visited Bayeux Tapestry - for me, the absolute highlight of our trip. It is hard to believe this article of history is 1000 years old. It is vast and precious and magical, exhibited wonderfully well and with a very useful audio guide that made me feel like I was in a fantasy novel. Unlike most tourist destinations of this repute, we waited hardly any time to buy tickets and enter, and as an added bonus, Bayeux the town is also utterly adorable - well worth a patisserie stop. We did so at La Pâtisserie de Guillaume.
Visited the D-Day Museum at Arromanches-les-Bains - to tell the tale of Operation Overlord, and in particular, how Allied Forces built and erected a ‘floating port’ off the coast of Arromanches-les-Bains to faciltate the D-Day landings and ongoing supply of men, supplies and equipment for the re-taking of France.
RIDING IN NORMANDY
The riding in Normandy isn’t especially challenging, but it’s not effortless either — the terrain is mostly flat, which means you’re pedalling constantly. Roads are often narrow, with stone walls close to the edge, and the sky tends to hang low and slate-grey. Every so often, the landscape opens up and you catch a glimpse of the sea. It’s steady, atmospheric riding. Here are some routes we took:
Cycled to the Merville Gun Battery through Pegasus Bridge - historically important, Pegasus Bridge was the first bridge to be liberated following D-Day landings on June 6th 1944
Day 15 - Drive between Caen & Cherbourg
About 130km, 1hr 30mins driving
Ferry from Cherbourg back to Poole, then drive back to Yorkshire
Ideas for another visit
-
Stay near Namur
Cycle Wallonia’s UNESCO route
-
Stay near the tiny city of Châteauroux
Visit Musée du Textile et de la Mode (Museum of Textiles & Fashion) in Cholet
Visit Musée de la Chemiserie et de l'Élégance Masculine (Shirt-making and Male Elegance Museum) in the Loire Valley features a textile garden with plants used for textile fibers, dyes, and other related processes
-
Visit Dieppe market, voted best in France in 2020
Take a factory-workshop tour of Bohin, last surviving pin and needle manufacturer in France, located in the Orne department in Normandy
Visit Les Jardins d’Étretat - Clinging close to the cliff, the gardens at Etretat are a poetic mix of landscape and sculpture known as “land-art.”
Visit The Sculpture Garden at the Château de Bois-Guilbert
Dine at Le Goéland 1951, a seasonal restaurant and bar (open during the high season) in a converted bunker from the war on the edge of a peninsula with breath taking views on the sea.
From spring to autumn along the sea front at Le Havre there’s a host of pop-up bars and restaurants, some of which have a view right on the sea.
Swim in the sea water swimming pool, plage du Plat Gousset in Granville
Swim in the Bains des Docks in Le Havre, designed by reputed French architect Jean Nouvel - this 5000 square metre aquatic centre comprises 12 pools, including a 50 x 21 metre outdoor pool, several leisure pools, a sauna, steam room, spa and fitness room.
Dieppe’s outdoor swimming pool offers views of castle and limestone cliffs
Other itineraries & food for France
Summer walking on the Suffolk Coast
My itinerary journal for a short weekend walking break on the Suffolk Coast, to catchup with a dear friend.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Walberswick and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in mid-July
Highlights include a walk around the Suffolk & Essex Coast & Heaths National Landscape starting in Walberswick
Based on a pair of friends travelling, for a short catch-up trip
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Suffolk is perhaps unseen, as a holiday destination. It doesn’t have the Royal connection as Norfolk does, and for those of us in the North, it’s just that bit further away.
It is though, worth the trip. It is worth it for the quiet, for the history, and for the golden sandy coast.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely. This is a short shot-in-the-arm kind of trip, like an extended day out with a pal, with the walk offering great opportunity for a long catch up and some gentle exercise combined. I think it would work equally well for a biking stay, especially since the Suffolk countryside is flat without being boring.
Also, staying in a guesthouse, with the benefit of a breakfast, made a 2 night stay very easy indeed.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit Suffolk again, though would focus on another area.
WHEN
Mid July
Spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.
LIGHT & WEATHER
Long days, likely warm (may be hot)
Sunrise: 04:36am to 5:13am
Sunset: 21:18pm to 20:46pm
17 hours of daylight
ACCOMMODATION
Corner Farm, Guesthouse
luxury and modern
well suited for a pair of friends
fantastic breakfast, with the best granola I have ever had (the owner kindly provided the recipe!)
absolutely silent
TRAVEL MEANS
Car
Drive from Leeds takes about 4 hours
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the afternoon, collect groceries and settle in
Dinner: BBQ at our guesthouse
Day 2 - Saturday
Walk: Long walking loop around Walberswick, 13km (gpx download here)
Dinner: The Anchor, Walberswick - friendly, relaxed, casual
Day 3 - Sunday
Breakfast at the guesthouse
Drive home
Ideas for another trip
Dine or event at Suffolk Food Hall, Ipswich
Visit Kentwell Hall, one of the finest moated Tudor Houses in England and regular scene for history re-creation events
Bike ride around Suffolks’ Wool Towns - Lanvenham, Clare, Kersey, Long Melford
Visit Woodbridge on the River Deben
Other July Itineraries
Stopover in Denver: a plan for 24 hours
My itinerary for a 24 hour stop in Denver.
Why stopover in Denver?
Denver is the principal city of Colorado state, between mountain ranges and prairie flatlands, known as the ‘Mile High’ city, and famed for its perpetually sunny climate. It’s roughly central if moving north to south in the USA, and about one third the ways in if moving west to east, so an ideal stop point for a road trip, or a schedule of flights.
Colorado’s varied topography and picturesque peaks and valleys makes it perfectly suited for outdoor pursuits regardless of the temperature; people come here to raft, fish, ski, mountain bike, horseride, run and hike year-round. That same topography makes for a marvellous road trip through the state if you aren’t the adventuring kind.
A stop off here promises craft beer
Itinerary At A Glance
1 day itinerary for Denver, Colorado in the central Southwest of the USA, packing in art, city tour and comedy show
WHEN
June, July, August or September
Pikes Peak Hill Climb is typically on annually in June, so coordinate a visit to be able to attend this event
ACCOMMODATION
The Westin, Denver International Airport
Since this is for a layover stop, avoid the hassle of driving into the city by staying close to the airport and use the airport train to travel into the city.
SCHEDULE OF ACTIVITIES
Clyfford Still, PH-1186, 1955
Courtesy of Clyfford Still Museum
Morning Scoot Tour: Book a 2 hr moped tour of the city. Alernatively, rent a scooter via the Lyft and Lime apps
Lunch: On Wednesday or Thursday, Civic Center Eats, rallys together the city’s food trucks and live music (spring through to autumn).
Art: Visit the Clyfford Still Art Museum - this artist bequeathed his work to any American city willing to house, display and care for it in its entirety. 20 American cities contended for the privilege; Denver won.
Wander: Confluence Park offers riverside walks
Dinner & Evening Comedy: Dinner on Larimer Square, for a view of the founding street of Denver and book a show at Comedy Works to round off the evening
Other Road Trip Itineraries
Småland, Sweden: a leisure cycling travel itinerary
Travelling in summer, my imagined itinerary for 7 nights in Smaland, Sweden. Cycling amid lakes, islands, country lanes, and deep forests.
Why Småland?
Research for this trip started with a friend, who ran an ultra-marathon around the island archipelago of Stockholm, extolling the virtues and beauties of this region. So I set a-looking for a possible trip to Sweden.
Turns out, the archipelago around Stockholm is famed for its beautiful maze of waterways and islands, peppered with second homes and cabins owned by city residents in pretty coastal towns for weekend trips and outdoor activities. While stunning, the many islands often means travel by boat and my other half gets badly seasick so I started to rule it out……………but Sweden looked too much like the exact kind of place I like to holiday, so I continued doggedly researching.
Gothenburg, Värmland, Lake Vänern, Öland………on and on I went, looking at places to stay and things to do, trying to spot the one that just seemed to tick all our boxes……….until a chance stumble had me in Småland and that set my tail wagging.
It is a land of deep forests, sparkling lakes and teensy cities punching above their weight with foodie and cultural scenes to rival that of larger urban centres. There are proper MTB facilities at various trail centres around the region. Other fun facts include that IKEA grew from being a small mail order company in the forests of Småland to the global phenomenon it is now, and between Växjö and Kalmar on the coast is the famed ‘Kingdom of Crystal’ - a string of glass-blowing communities reinvigorated, revitalised and turned into a unique tourist destination. Many describe this place as all of Sweden in miniature.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 night independent itinerary for Småland in southern Sweden
Based on flying in and out of Gothenburg from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include biking the countryside, outdoor forest dining, experiencing the traditions of the glassblowing villages and some art locations celebrating the Swede’s famed sensitivity to great design
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
June or July
For the driest, warmest and lightest months, but I would still plan for mixed weather.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds into Gothenburg, changing in Amsterdam
This trip will also require car hire for the entirety of the trip, along with bike hire which is capable of handling gravel surfaces
ACCOMMODATION
To make the most of the weather, the views and the outdoorsy nature of this trip, a traditional Swedish summer house - ferienhaus - would be my top pick ideally with some outdoor space. Either Gränna, Jönköping, or the stretch of land between them would make a good base. In order of preference:
Gorgeous and modern ferienhaus on the edge of a small lake between Jönköping and Växjö
Apartment in a listed building in Gränna, overlooking Lake Vättern
Modern countryside ferienhaus between Jönköping and Växjö
Apartment on the Smålandsgården estate in Gränna
IMPORTANT NOTE FOR BOOKING! Summer accommodation in the Swedish countryside books up very very quickly - note that its is also very common for self-catering homes to only allow a minimum of a 1 week stay, and not uncommon for them to enforce a 2 week minimum stay. This is a holiday where you will need to plan well in advance and get booking.
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - arrive
Try to arrive in the morning
Day 2 - biking Visingsö Island on Lake Vättern and explore Gränna
In the morning. head to Visingsö Island to bike the 25 km island perimeter path which takes between 2 and 3 hours. Lush oak forests and farmland co-exist on Visingsö, and along the way are several possibilities for a picnic break. More info found here
Explore the town of Gränna in the afternoon and stay for dinner
Day 3 - Experience the Crystal Kingdom (Glasriket in Swedish)
The Glass Kingdom is a cluster of villages between the cities of Kalmar and Växjö, which has been the centre of the country’s world-renowned glassblowing community since 1742. There is the Kosta Boda Art Gallery, designed by Bruno Mathsson in the early 1950s. At the Glassworks in Målerås, you can have a go at glassmaking, wander the walking/biking path and, most excitingly, partake in a traditional ‘hot shop herring’ evening meal (hyttsill in Swedish). Hyttsill evenings date back to the days when the glassworks acted as a focal point for the local community – an after-hours meeting place for workers, hunters from the surrounding forest and, not least, wandering tramps. When the glassblowers go home for the day, long tables are set up in the glassworks and the chef fries salted herring in the cooling pipe – where earlier in the day, finished glassware has been slowly cooled down. He brings trays of crispy bacon and isterband sausages to the table. Jacket potatoes, genuine Småland ostkaka pudding. Glasses are filled with chilled beer from the basement… Soon, the singing creates a warm atmosphere in the smeltery
Day 4 - biking Åsnen National Park and dinner in Växjö
About 40 minutes south of Växjö, is the Åsnen National Park, the newest in Sweden. Spend the day cycling its lanes, forests and lakesides, using this helpful site for inspiration on routes
Have dinner in Växjö, whose culinary scene rivals that of any larger city. Five of its restaurants are featured in the White Guide (Scandinavia’s leading restaurant guide), and the hotel/restaurant PM & Vänner was awarded a Michelin star for its modern take on Småland cuisine.
Day 5 - long day ride loop from Jönköping to Bunn and back
90km round trip on quiet country roads, this loop apparently takes you through some of loveliest countryside, into the famed village of Bunn, and back into Jönköping. Budget for 6-7 hours on the bike with more info here.
Day 6 - foraging and forest dining
Make a booking at one Smaland’s Edible Country Tables using this guide for what to forage from the Sweden countryside
Day 7 - long day ride loop between along the southern edge of Lake Vättern
70km round trip through the apple orchards and country lanes between Jönköping and Gränna
Day 8 - final breakfast and head home
Have one final breakfast of coffee and kanelbulle (cinnamon bun)
Try to leave in the afternoon
Back-up plans for rainy days
Longest zipline in Europe at Little Rock Lake
Visit the IKEA Museum in Älmhult, on the central southern border of the region
Take an Elf Safari at Grönåsen Elk and Livestock Park
Visit Vandalorum Art & Design Museum in Varnamo (between Jönköping & Växjö)
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Isterband (pork, barley and potato sausage) with pickled beetroot and dill-stewed potatoes is a classic Småland dish.
Other Summer Stuff
The Swedish West Coast - a twin-centre itinerary with biking, hiking, sculpture and excellent baking
Travelling in early summer, how we enjoyed 12 nights on the West Coast of Sweden. Hiking, biking and outdoor dining all feature.
Why the Swedish West Coast?
The entirety of Sweden’s coastline is both vast and varied - there are rocky granite coasts, deep sand-dune backed beaches of fine golden sand, vast island archipelagos of islands, islets and skerries connected to the mainland by bridges or chain ferries, forests right up to the coast, high cliffs, even inland lakes the size of inland seas. Just off the coast there are deep forests and meandering lanes amid a patchwork of meadows and farms.
The West Coast of Sweden has Gothenburg (Sweden’s second largest city, and home of Volvo) as the major urban base, but outside of that there is plenty of nature, both wild and tamed, for outdoor exploring, either on two wheels or on two feet. This is the summer playground of many a-Swede but not often visited by folks from the UK, so naturally, I feel like a jammy bugger, excited to be discovering something so authentically Swedish.
We based ourselves in Halland, just south of Gothenburg. It’s beachy, breezy, and brilliant for bikes. Halmstad, the main town, kicks off Sweden’s first national cycle trail and has a laid-back, surfy vibe.
Head north and you hit Bohuslän, a dreamy stretch of smooth granite islands and tiny fishing villages. It’s all red cottages, salty air, and kayaks weaving through the islets. It feels like a postcard.
We spent 12 sun-soaked days here—27°C and blue skies the whole way. Apparently, that’s rare. But we’ll take it.
Itinerary At A Glance
12 night independent itinerary for Halmstad in Halland province and Orust island on Bohuslän coast
Based on flying from Leeds into Gothenburg, with a hop in Amsterdam
Highlights include DIY outdoor dining in one of the Edible Country tables, Bronze Age rock carvings, biking the famous Kattegattelden coastal trail, hiking and outdoor cooking in the forest on Midsummer’s Eve, and plenty of fresh baked goods at cafes with seaviews
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Late June/early July
Driest, warmest and lightest months, plan for mixed weather.
Note also that, outside the major urban centres, many of the summer homes, tourist attractions, ferry routes and eateries are only operational May to September, so visiting outside of these times is a very different (and probably trickier) prospect.
TRAVEL MEANS
Leeds to Gothenburg with a hop in Amsterdam, flying with KLM
Car also be essential to move between locations, as well as road or hybrid bike hire for the entirety of the stay in Halmstad
ACCOMMODATION
Halmstad/Halland province
We stayed in this Cosy and luxurious villa on the outskirts of Halmstad.
Quiet. Large outdoor space including pool and cooking area. Proper family home with all the mod-cons. Recommended.
Bohuslän Coast
We stayed in this Gorgeous and modern coastal home with incredible views out to sea from the deck.
Recommended, especially if you particularly prize a peaceful and out-of-the-way location.
SCHEDULE
Halmstad in Halland province - Day 1 to 7
Day 1
Arrive: drove to Halmstad from Gothenburg
Collect Bike Rental from Rent-A-Bike Halmstad
Day 2
Bike: Pick a section of the Kattegattelden cycle trail using this extremely handy and comprehensive website to the trail, with an option to download the GPX files.
Cafe: Stopped at neighbourhood cafe Borjes Harplige Konditori for a pitstop and has my very first try of a chokoladbollar. Flipping marvellous and a wide selection for such a small village bakery.
Dinner: at the house
Day 3
Lund: This was one of our only rainy days, on which we headed out to Lund, the ‘Oxford of Sweden’, 1h 30m drive to the south.
Wandered the town, and stopped for coffee and baked goods before heading home - specifically Ramklints Konditorei for traditional Swedish patisserie and Lund Gateau Saluhallen
Day 4
Hike: Went on this Gourmet Hike tour with Anders. Cooked outdoors and checked constantly for ticks…..found some as a matter of fact…
Day 5
Bike: Pick a section of the Kattegattelden cycle trail which includes Falkenberg and explore the town as part of the route
Dinner: Booked in at Köketin Falkenberg, recommended by the White Guide - an excellent choice. The food and the service was superb, proudly Scandi, and just on the right side of ‘fine dining’. Not so progressive that it felt ‘try hard’ but still special enough to have felt like a proper treat. This wasn’t food I can make at home.
Day 6
Relax: enjoyed the hot weather in the garden
Dinner: BBQ outside
Day 7
Fika: Anders (our tour guide) and his wife, Viktoria, invited us for fika at their home in Halmstad. Viktoria baked a variety of teeny little bakes, from chokoladbiskvier to slices of Prinsesstårta. We sat outside in the shade of a tree with coffee and delicious baked goods and told each other some stories.
Deeply grateful for their invite to join us at their home. A highlight of our trip, for sure.
-
Spend an evening at Rotundan in Norre Katts Park in central Halmstad, with street food options with a musical performance from their cultural program
Take a guided tour of Tjolöholms Slott (Tjoloholm’s Castle)
Visit the Bath House at Varberg (Kalbadhuset Varberg) for a sauna and fika
Take a wander around Helsingborg
Take a trip out to Varberg to dine at Spiseriet (for tables of less than 6 people, it is drop-ins only)
Spend an afternoon in Halmstad, using this self-guided history walk as my rough guide - its only in Swedish but nice to have a paper copy for a bit of slow-ways pathfinding
Stop in for lunch or fika at Söderfamiljen in central Halmstad for a view over the river
Visit the Halland Art Museum or Mjellby Art Museum, to get to know a little more about artists in the region
Book in to ÄNG restaurant on the Ästad Vingård in Halland County. Recently awarded both 1 Michelin Star and a Michelin Green Star - first introduced in 2020, the Michelin Green Star is an annual award which highlights restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices
Do a local beer tasting on Friday or Saturday nights at Halmstad Brygghus
Day 8 - drive between Halmstad & Bohuslän
Made a pitstop at the café town of Alingsås, the Swedish Capital of Fika, for a wander around the town and its many cafes. Cute, not astounding.
About 300km, 3hrs 30mins driving
Bohuslän Coast - Day 8 to 13
Day 8
Settle in, buy supplies
Day 9
Sculpture Park: Went to the Pilane outdoor sculpture park on Tjorn, open May to September from 9am to 7pm. Gorgeous.
Lunch: Dined in the courtyard under the blazing sun, at Margareta's Koko Skafferi, Sunsby Sateri. Set in a historic manor estate, the café blends old-world charm with cozy vibes. You can sit indoors among vintage furnishings or outside surrounded by gardens.
Walk: there are walking trails at Sundsby Sateri. We took to one after lunch, to work off the kladdkaka…….which was utterly excellent - a crisp shell with a gooey interior - but also extremely indulgent.
Dinner: at the house
Day 10
Museum: Visited Nordic Watercolour Museum on Tjorn Island
Lunch: Lottas Bak & Farm (Lotta’s Sourdough Bakery & Cafe). Open Wed-Fri 9am to 5pm, Sat 8am to 3pm, Sun 10am to 3pm. A delighful neighbourhood cafe with a back terrace that looks out over a teensy little inlet. Tranquil and relaxed, with great food and an on-site bakery. An ideal spot for a sit-down.
Day 11
Visited the Vitklycke Museum and rock carvings in Tanum, member part of the World Heritage list as an outstanding example of Bronze Age art. Visitors can either join a guided tour or follow the well-marked six kilometre path for an exploration of the many rock carvings at this site. Open 10am to 5pm June to August (more limited opening times April, May, Sept, Oct and Nov).
We chose the independent option.
Pretty breathtaking. The carvings are highly visible, having been repainted to really stand out, and its rather mindbending the quantity that there on the site.One in particualr is a huge depiction of a man, way bigger than human size.
Highly highly recommended.
Day 12
Forgaging & outdoor dining: Booked on one of the Edible Country tables at Ramsvik. Stunning stunning location, perched on a cliff looking out over The Skagerrak—a strait that connects the North Sea to the Kattegat and separates Sweden from Norway and Denmark.
The foraging though, was very very difficult, having only been provided with a stylised line drawing
Day 13
Have one final breakfast of coffee and kanelbulle (cinnamon bun)
Try to leave in the afternoon
-
Wander around Marstrand on Kungälv island
Make day trips to visit a couple of the prize spots on the island of Orust - Gullholmen and Mollösund
Hike Dyron Island boardwalk trail, ending with a stop at the public sauna
Dinner at Brygghuset, Fiskebäckskil- multiple winner of the Whiskey Restaurant of the Year Award, and reputedly knowledgeable in all things seafood
Sewing and Wearing
Other Active Holiday Itineraries
Rye, East Sussex - biking, castles and wine in high Summer
From Leeds to Rye, East Sussex, on the south coast of England, my itinerary journal of our summer staycation.
Why Rye?
Rye’s distinction lies in being a medieval coastal merchant town that got rich through its being a member of the confederation of Cinque Ports from the 12th to the 15th century.
This group of towns across nowadays Kent and East Sussex were granted the local profits of justice in return for providing and maintaining ships ready for English Crown to use in case of need, principally in defence of invasion or attack by Danish or French forces. This role of maintaining defence contingents for the realm of England came with some benefits; namely some tax exemptions and a level of self-government and self-jurisdiction. In addition, their being ports meant trade and mercantile activities, which typically lead to wealth generation.
While all of that is long in the past, Rye has maintained much of its quaint and meandering medieval architecture and has reinvented itself as a tourist destination.
The area itself is also just at the edge of the High Weald National Landscape, a beautiful area of green and rolling hills, medieval manors and English winemaking.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Rye, East Sussex - on the south coast of England, right on the border with Kent
Based on driving from Yorkshire in July
Highlights include a visit to Bodiam Castle, cycling the gorgeous green-and-rolling countryside through pretty and historic towns and villages, and tour with tasting at an English vineyard
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Did the place live up to hype or expectations?
This area of the UK doesn’t seem to get any attention as a possible holiday region but I can truly attest that this is a gorgeous part of the country, ideally suited to a long break with all the makings of a great spot for a holiday. We found idyllic countryside, history-aplenty, unique architecture, some marvellous eateries, and well-surfaced and quiet roads (and many singletrack lanes) that were ideal for cycling. It felt peaceful, affluent, with plenty to do and not at all thronged with tourists.
Now, despite the hype on social media about Rye, Rye is worth maximum, one day of your time. A few hours will easily do it. What I would recommend is choosing to stay somewhere in the countryside around Rye because it is just so darn lovely.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Yes - 4 days is an ideal length of time to explore the area, for a relaxed mix of biking, history, food and relaxation.
I have said it before and I will say it again - 4 nights, Monday to Friday is a superb option for a staycation - feels like a full week off work, long enough to truly escape the daily routine and relax, but short enough that it doesn’t feel like overmuch in a place that is still essentially home.
Would I make another visit?
I could see us returning, not exactly to this location, but to the wider region of Kent and East Sussex for another summer staycation.
TRAVEL MEANS
Driving from Yorkshire took 5hr 45mins
It is a long distance, but that really contributed to the feeling of ‘going on holiday’ for me
ACCOMMODATION
Oast House - buildings designed and used for for kilning (drying) hops as part of the brewing process. They can be found in most hop-growing (and former hop-growing) areas and many have now been converted to houses - they are very distinctive and all over this region and not found much in other parts of the UK.
a delightful little self-contained annex
perfectly proportioned for a couple
very much ‘of its place’
a chance to stay in something quite traditional (low ceilings, stone walls, exposed beams, walled garden etc.) without having to hire out a large property - which is usually the case for this type of accom
just outside of Rye
National Cycle Network Route 2 just behind the house.
Day 1
Drive in the morning, collect groceries, arrive and settle in
For supplies, we shopped at both Jempsons and Rye Deli - both great examples of local food retailers offering great produce
Day 2
Visited Bodiam Castle: 30 min drive or 1hr 15m cycle from Rye, an archetypal 14th century moated castle with ruined interior - a glimpse of medieval splendour
Cycled around Bedgebury National Pinetum & Forest: 8 mile red singletrack route
Drinks & Dinner in Rye: Had some excellent bottled Belgian beers at The Outside Inn in central Rye. Dined at Tatners Street Kitchen in Rye - very modern casual dinery serving up the current on-trend American-style goodies like slow-cooked meats in buns, dirty fries, hotdogs and the like. Easy, tasty and atmospheric
Day 3
Breakfast: at Tibbs ‘Pick Your Own’ Farm - just up the road, a pick-your-own soft fruits farm and cafe with a superb view over the valley below. Fruits were in season when we were there. Highly recommended for a snacky breakfast or coffee and cake.
Long bike ride: Took in the sights on the bikes, following (most of) the Sustrans route: 20-mile Rye and Winchelsea Circular. A fairly challenging route on a mountain bike, with plenty of ups and downs for a physical challenge, and predominantly done on single-track country lanes. Very do-able on a hybrid or road bike also
Day 4
Relaxed & wandered around Rye: made breakfast, spend the morning chilling out then spent the morning having a wander around Rye
Late Afternoon Vineyard Tour, Wine Testing & Dinner: at Tillingham (20 min drive from Rye), a young and lively bio-dynamic vineyard just outside of Rye. Along with dinner at their superb restaurant, this was one of the highlights of our trip. I am no wine connoisseur, but still fascinating to attend their tasting event and learn more about their wines, English wines, the winemaking process and how they are attempting some radical practices in the pursuit of making great wine.
Day 5
Drove home
-
Have breakfast, lunch, or dinner at The Figin Central Rye
Sissinghurst Castle Garden- a world-renowned garden
Walking tour of Rye's Huguenot history using theGeotourist app.
Cycle around Bewel Water (13 miles) - round reservoir route is open to cyclists, horses and walkers and is made up of forest paths, surfaced trails, country lanes and meadows
Visit Farley’s House & Gallery - former home of Lee Miller and Roland Penrose; Pablo Picasso stayed in 1950, and Max Ernst, Joan Miró, Man Ray, Leonora Carrington and Dorothea Tanning visited from overseas whilst Eileen Agar, Kenneth Armitage, William Turnbull, John Craxton and Richard Hamilton formed the British contingent. Works by many of these artists are displayed in the house in a selection that regularly changes as items are loaned to exhibitions in galleries around the world
Picnic on Camber Sands – a stretch of pale sand with a backdrop of massive dunes.
VisitGreat Dixter House – home of gardening writer and general place of pilgrimage for anyone interested in horticulture
Take a steam train through the Weald aboard the Kent & East Sussex Railway, travelling in the style of the steam train era. There are normally two steam hauled departures per Saturday & Sunday:
The morning departure leaves Tenterden at 10:40am and arrives at Bodiam at 11:30am. It then departs Bodiam at approximately 11:45am, arriving back in Tenterden at 12:32pm.
The afternoon departure leaves Tenterden at 1:15pm, arrives at Bodiam at 2:00pm, before departing at approximately 2:15pm, arriving back in Tenterden at 3:07pm.
For a more established vineyard, visitChapel Down
Tastes of the British Isles
Southern Germany - a 12 night Summer road trip.
A hot summer road trip through Germany’s southern states. Castles, cakes, pretzels, bikes, hikes, lakes and beer all make an appearance. There’s nothing this place doesn’t have.
Itinerary At A Glance
12 night independent touring itinerary for Southern Germany, across the two southern states of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria.
Based on flying into Stuttgart from Manchester, and back in from Munich into Manchester, in July
Highlights include an invigorating walk around the hills of Heidelberg, a leisurely stroll around spa-town Baden-Baden, rest-stop coffee on the Lake Constance lakeside in Lindau, biking in the Black Forest and around Chiemsee Lake, a visit to The Eagles Nest in Berchtesgaden, a tour around the Eisriesenwelt Ice Caves over the border in Austria, Black Forest Gateau in its home in the Black Forest, and daily pretzel indulgence.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Did the place live up to expectations?
I would say this trip exceeded expectations and doesn’t get the attention it deserves.
I think the common belief is that Germany is a land of industry and/or grungy alternativeness; Brits go to Germany for Oktoberfest or a kooky bohemian-alternative city break in Berlin or Munich, but no-one seems to consider it a place to summer so that of course made it even more appealing.
I always like to think I’m choosing ‘off-the-beaten-track’ options and I got it into my head that Germany might make a fantastic summer destination - I imagined floral meadows, rolling hills, dancing waterfalls and outdoor beer gardens - I wasn’t far wrong really, but add in castles, excellent baked goods and some World War II historical sites.
The regions we visited honoured history and tradition, in and amongst the gorgeous rolling green countryside. There is a magnificence about it, with what felt to me like a commitment to aesthetics and beauty. It was clean, welcoming, green, varied and with much to see and do as a tourist.
We absolutely LOVED this trip, and have fallen a little bit in love with Germany as a result.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Logistically, Germany is both very easy to get to from the UK, with only a short flying distance and multiple arrival/departure points, and very easy to move around with an excellent road system - for this reason, the independent touring holiday, spending 3 nights, 4 nights and 5 nights in different locations across the southern states of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria, worked perfectly.
I settled on starting off with a city break in Heidelberg, a university city on the River Neckar with glorious Baroque architecture; moving on to stay in Triberg in the Black Forest, the birthplace of the Black Forest Gateau; finishing up at the biggest lake in the Bavarian Lake District, Lake Chiemsee.
This almost felt like 6 holidays in one owing to the contrasts we experienced throughout the trip - we had 35°C weather and a visit to an ice cave where it was below freezing; we found Freiburg im Bresigau a vibrant and youthful place contrasted with the strong traditional feeling in the Bavarian Lake District; we had all of city, town, village, river, mountain, lake and forest. Some of the tiny memorable details of being in Germany were the colourful floral window boxes decorating most houses - we saw this everywhere - and the pretzels, the freshness and taste of which isn’t well replicated in pretzels you buy in the UK.
The weather is more changeable than you can expect in southern Europe, but it was very hot on at least half of our 12 days, with much opportunity to enjoy outdoor activity as a result and I would say generally hotter than the UK.
Don’t fall into the anglophone assumption that everywhere you go will speak English - they may not, so brush up on some German phrasing to help you through simple activities you know you are going to do regularly.
Would I make another visit?
I would definitely consider another summer holiday in Germany and I have considered a similar touring holiday crisscrossing the French-German-Swiss borders with stops in Freiburg, Colmar/Mulhouse, and Neuchatel. My advice for others would be to choose Freiburg im Breisgau as the base in the Black Forest. This little university city was absolutely buzzing, with delightfully unique little canals running through its streets. It would be an easy location to enjoy both the food and culture of a city and outdoor activities in the surrounding countryside.
FLIGHTS & OTHER TRAVEL MEANS
Fly with Lufthansa from Manchester, into Stuttgart, and out of Munich
We also hired a car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as bikes for parts of the trip
ROUTE & STOPS
Fly Manchester into Stuttgart; drive to Heidelberg for a 3 night stay
Drive from Heidelberg to the Black Forest (Triberg) for a 4 night stay; stop off at Baden-Baden along the way
Drive from The Black Forest to the Bavarian Lake District (Lake Chiemsee) for a 5 night stay; stop off at Lindau along the way
Drive from Lake Chiemsee to Munich; fly Munich to Manchester
ACCOMMODATION
Heidelberg
Hotel Chester on the outskirts of Heidelberg.
While the hotel itself was lovely, and we couldn’t complain about anything really - it was modern, clean, quiet, with good service and a very good breakfast - it was too far out to make the most of the 2.5 days we had in Heidelberg. This was a lesson learnt for me.
Black Forest
Inselklause in Triberg.
Hotel and service was lovely, but it was the wrong choice of location for us - it wasn’t central to anything we wanted to visit so everything became quite a drive away.
Lake Chiemsee
Hotel Bonnschloessl in Bernau am Chiemsee.
Traditional and classic - nothing to write home about for us, but clean, tidy and friendly.
SCHEDULE
Heidelberg - Day 1 to 4
Visited Schwetzingen Palace (Schloss Schwetzingen) on the outskirts of Heidelberg. Glorious. The gardens in particular make an ideal place for a summer wander
Walked the Philosophenweg (Philosophers Way) on the western banks of the River Necker and accessible starting from the city centre. It is a nice physical challenge and offers excellent views of the city as well as interesting sites like the Heidelberg Thingstatte which is a Nazi-built open-air amphitheatre where thousands of people could gather for propaganda presentations. Eerie.
Visited the Technik Museum Speyer - an automotive and aviation museum on the outskirts of Heidelberg
Lunched at Strohauers Cafe in central Heidelberg. Classic and authentic with an outdoor seating area perfect for people-watching.
Had top-class coffee and cake at Bäckerei Utz on our day trip out to Schloss Schwetzingen.
Drive between Heidelberg & Black Forest - Day 4
About 180km, 2hr 15 mins driving
On our way through to the Black Forest, we stopped at Baden-Baden, a glorious little spa town at the start of the Black Forest for a little coffee and a peruse around this pretty affluent town.
Black Forest - Day 4 to 8
Walked the route alongside and over the Triberg Waterfalls - the highest in Germany
Had Black Forest Gateau at Cafe Schaefer in Triberg
The hotel we were staying in, Inselklause, also had a lovely restaurant and a river running just behind it meaning some of the dishes included caught-that-day river trout from their own back yard. Really good
Had absolutely gorgeous chocolate and baking confections at Gmeiner on our day trip out to Freiburg im Breisgau
Took a day trip out to Freiburg im Breisgau - a highlight of our trip. The city is funky, outdoorsy and with the most unusual little miniature canal system running through its streets. We actually parked at the top of the mountain outside Freiburg to take a trip on the Schauinslandbahn - a cable car connecting an upper station near the summit of the Schauinsland mountain with a lower station in the municipality of Horben, near the city of Freiburg im Breisgau. Then it was a short and simple tram ride from the lower station into the city and it was worth it for the peaceful views of the Black Forest as we made the descent
Drive between Black Forest & Bavarian Lake District - Day 8
About 420km, 4hr 45 mins driving
On our way through to Lake Chiemsee and to break up the long 5 hour drive, we stopped at Lindau on the banks of Lake Constance (Bodensee in German) and wow - this little lakeside town is just gorgeous - all little streets, pastel-coloured buildings, floral window boxes and loads of outdoor cafes and cobbled squares. It is actually a teeny island in the lake itself, reached by crossing a small bridge and it is definitely worth a stop here. Especially lovely are the food establishments that face out onto the lake itself.
Lake Chiemsee - Day 8 to 12
Dined at Schlosswirtschaft at Wildenwart. A lovely, traditional countryside restaurant near Chiemsee - authentic German food in a gorgeous rural setting.
Had delicious pretzels from Cafe Obermaier in Bernau
E-biked all around the Lake Chiemsee. A full-day 58km loop with scenic stops - a great way to explore the area.
Day trip out to Eisriesenwelt Ice Caves (Austria). I can’t do justice to just how otherworldly and spectacular these are, and it’s an uncanny experience to be in 25°C on the outside, dropping almost immediately to below freezing once you enter, even in July. Once inside, its a rather spellbinding vision of nature’s own ‘ice sculpture’ with huge mystical caverns of icicles, ice falls and ice shelves
Herrenchiemsee. Took the ferry to the island to visit King Ludwig’s residence - regal, whimsical, and beautifully set on the lake.
Took a day trip out to The Eagles Nest (Kehlsteinhaus in German) in Berchtesgaden. This site was a symbol of power of the Nazi regime; decisions were made at the Eagle’s Nest and I believe it was a retreat option for Nazi leadership where they could hole up as it was very hard to access. The building stands perched over a sheer rock wall and to facilitate construction, a road was cut into the mountain through previously impassable terrain. We really enjoyed the visit, and there is a challenging scramble around the mountain at the top. We felt the controversial historical significance was handled humbly and with due remorse and chagrin for what it represents. To quote their website:
“Today however it still offers a magnificent and unique view of the surrounding countryside and also the opportunity to remember and learn about the inhuman dictatorship it served.”
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
I would sum up the best of German food culture as Cakes, Bakes and Beer. It is no lie to say that we had pretzels every single day of our trip, and I don’t think we had a bad one. They are sold in every bakery, in every town and village, and I have never tasted any better. Cakes generally were also some of the best I have ever had - easily rivalling more famous baking destinations like Paris or Copenhagen. Beer choices and quality were also superlative. These are the tastes of Germany for us, and it is well worth going to experience them.
Generally speaking, while we had good food during our trip, hot meals served for lunch or dinner tended towards hearty traditional grub made up of a potato option, some meat, and a sauce. Not necessarily the wildest or most inspiring of options, but tasty, filling and comforting nonetheless
Lessons Learnt for me
Prioritise location when choosing accommodation. On this trip, staying too far from the places we wanted to visit meant spending excessive time driving each day. I’ve realised that for city breaks especially, being within walking distance of the centre adds huge value — it allows for spontaneous outings, easy access to meals, and a more relaxed, immersive experience.
Touring with stops of 3–5 nights work well for an active pace; going longer or adding more stops can feel too hectic. Next time, I’ll plan fewer moves and choose accommodation that allows us to stay put for a few days — ideally within walking distance of key sights or no more than a 20-minute drive. That way, we can park the car and enjoy a more relaxed rhythm, with time to explore spontaneously and soak up the local atmosphere.
Other July itineraries
Morbihan, Brittany - a twin-centre trip with road biking and city break
Travelling in early summer, my plan for 10-11 nights in Nantes and the Gulf of Morbihan. An itinerary for biking, art trails, a bit of Jules Verne, eating crepes, visiting medieval towns and castles, and admiring the sunset in pretty port towns.
Why Brittany?
With it’s own language and gastronomy that is heavily influenced by Celtic culture (indeed Brittany counts as one of the six Celtic nations along with Cornwall, Wales, Isle of Man, Ireland and Scotland), visitors are principally drawn to Brittany’s for coastal views, well-preserved historical towns and sites, food treats like salted caramel and crepes, and its unique cultural tradition that is quite distinct from the rest of France.
Tourism is well-established here with a wealth of online information to inform my independent itinerary. Its definitely a region geared up to receive visitors; many of them British, but also many of them French so it looks to have retained authenticity in its touristic offering. It is also well-serviced with transport options from the UK. This is not necessarily the place to discover that feels like I’m the only one to have done so, but I can take advantage of the expansive tourism infrastructure and online resources to get to some of the lesser-known places and design myself a unique itinerary quite easily.
Across the whole region, there seems to be a number of locales that strike my fancy and meet my brief of culturally rich, a little under the mainstream UK travel radar, and with opportunities for biking - Nantes, Quimper and Bénodet, St Malo, the Cote Eméraude, Noirmoutier-en-Île, Dinan, ruins at Carnac…this looks to be the kind of place that I will need several different holidays to see everything I’d like to see.
For this itinerary, I have settled on a design for southern Brittany, starting with a city break in Nantes, followed up with enjoying the coast in the Gulf of Morbihan, in easy reach of medieval town Vannes.
Nantes is the former “City of Dukes”, and was once the administrative capital of Brittany but is now part of the Pays de la Loire. This city looks to be a beauty - art features heavily, history is everywhere, and it looks to be a classy kind of place that isn’t too big to really see on a city break. There is also industry and an important port, and as per the Copenhagenize Index 2017, was marked as the 16th most “bicycle-friendly” city in the world.
The Gulf of Morbihan is a natural harbour; indeed ‘mor bihan’ in Breton means ‘little sea’. It is scattered with little islands, isles and islets; the mainland is lined with pretty little coastal villages; and being on the west coast, it is a beautiful theatre for incredible sunsets. The whole area looks perfect for exploring on a bike; quiet rural roads, excellent views, and for the historical and cultural hit, several castles and the medieval city of Vannes are within easy distance for day trips on two wheels.
Itinerary At A Glance
10 day independent itinerary for Brittany & the Loire Valley in Northwestern France: 3 nights in Nantes, and 7 nights in the Gulf of Morbihan near Vannes
Based on travelling in summer, flying in and out of Nantes from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include getting to know more about Jules Verne, biking around Nantes, taking a brunch tour on the River Erdre, indulging in buttery crepes, hanging out in the vibrant fortified medieval city of Vannes, and e-biking around the craggy coast of the Gulf of Morbihan.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Late June or early July.
Brittany has an extremely pleasant summer from June through to September with mid-20s temperature and fairly low rain during this time also. I will expect changeable weather even in the summer, though typically a few degrees warmer than the UK. The rest of the year is cool (not really very cold) but can be very wet (wetter than Northern England)
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds Bradford to Nantes, with a 2hr stop in Amsterdam
Hire a car to collect from the airport for the entirety of the trip and a road bike.
ACCOMMODATION
Gulf of Morbihan (in my order of preference)
La Villa du Guern - I’d like any one of those suites overlooking the water
I’m not sure I have ever encountered a more original place to stay than this house on the water
La Ferm’h - elegantly furnished eco-gites in Baden
Right outside of Vannes, but with views overlooking the Gulf of Morbihan - great looking Airbnb
Nantes (in my order of preference)
Maisons du Monde Hotel & Suites - my pick would be the Copenhague apartment
Luxurious 2 bed apartment with a grand and opulent personality
Stunner of a split-level duplex
Tasteful & modern 2 bed apartment with welcoming decor and nicely laid out space, about 1 mile from the centre of Nantes
SCHEDULE
Nantes - Day 1 to 4
Visit Chateaux des Ducs – 15th century castle tracing the history of Nantes
Take brunch cruise, a lunch cruise or a dinner cruise aboard the Bateaux Nantais up the River Erdre
This city is so bicycle friendly – I’d try some of these bike routes suggested by France Vélo Tourisme for in and around Nantes
Reputedly, the Quai des Antilles on the western side of the Ile de Nantes is the place to be for an early evening aperitif or beer. The riverside is supposedly lined with bars and cafés, and it bursts into action after sunset.
-
See an art exhibition at the industrial shed unit that is HAB Galérie, located on Île de Nantes
Book a performance at Le Lieu Unique - The last remaining vestiges of the LU biscuit factory established here in 1885 by Louis Lefèvre-Utile have been rehabilitated in 2000 by the architect Patrick Bouchain to give rise to this national centre for drama, dance and music. There is also a Turkish bath, a restaurant and a DJ in the bar on weekends
Follow the Green line through the city past nearly forty public art works and check out the Nymphea artwork at night drifting over the River Erdre
History of printworks at the Printing Museum
Jules Verne Museum, to learn about the city’s most famous artistic son
Wander by the Machines de l’Ile and the Great Elephant – this Jules Verne creation is the emblem of Nantes
Drive to Noirmoutier-en-Île - a flat island littered with cycling trails just off the Atlantic coast and about 1.5 hours from Nantes
Vannes & surrounds - Day 4 to 10
Spend at least half a day walking around half-timbered, fortified medieval town of Vannes. Eat in its cafes, admire it’s marina and walk the ramparts
Take an oyster mini-cruise to Ile aux Moines, to taste the oysters and learn more about their farming and the fragile ecosystem
Take a trip to Quiberon to visit the confectioner’s shop of Henri la Roux, inventor of the famous salted caramel
Bike out to the Fortresse de Largoët, the highest keep in France (2hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Bike out to the Chateau de Tredion for a walk around their sculpted gardens and sculpture park (3hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to Auray-Saint-Goustan for a wander around this pretty port town (2hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to see Rochefort-en-Terre and the Moulin Neuf for a walk around this reputedly beautiful floral village (4 to 5 hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to Carnac to see the ancient standing stones
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Oysters, cider, white wine, galettes/crepes and buttery Breton biscuits are just a few of the famed local treats.
Fish in a beurre blanc sauce, also known as beurre Nantais is a classic dish for Nantes.
Muscadet is a dry, crisp white wine, the most common wine produced in the Loire region.
Nantes Tourisme gives lots of recommendations for restaurants, creperies and wineries in Nantes. There are even some recipes on there for the classic foods of Nantes
Michelin Travel guide offers up several good food options in and around Vannes, Aubay and Baden - I’d probably book a couple of these in advance. There are even a couple of places with a Michelin star
Other Twin Centre Itineraries
