Fredrikstad - a long weekend for early Summer
From Manchester to Norway, to visit one of the best preserved fortified towns in Europe.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night road trip independent itinerary for exploring Fredrikstad
Based on flying from Manchester into Oslo and hiring a car
Highlights include cycling to a Bronze Age stone circle, a picnic on the city ramparts, summer outdoor swimming and waterside dining
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Fredrikstad is one of Northern Europe’s best-preserved fortified towns — a compact, walkable centre with real historical character. The surrounding region, including Hvaler, offers excellent cycling: coastal stretches, forested trails, and quiet roads that promise varied and rewarding rides.
It’s also logistically easy. Just south of Oslo, Fredrikstad sits along the eastern edge of the Oslofjord, stretching from Moss to the Swedish border. With direct flights from Manchester to Oslo taking around two hours, it’s an ideal short-break destination — accessible, but far enough to feel like a proper escape.
WHEN
June
Just outside of school holiday season.
Likely warm to hot, and also changeable.
LIGHT
Long days.
Sunrise: 04:13am to 04:06am
Sunset: 22:17pm to 22:34pm
18 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Fly from Manchester to Oslo
Car and bike hire will also be essential to move between locations
ACCOMMODATION
in the very centre of Fredrikstad - in the self-catering Holberg Suite
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Arrive: fly, collect hire car, collect bikes, collect groceries, arrive at holiday rental and settle in
Day 2
Morning swim: Outdoor swimming available during summer months only at Fredrikstad Kongstenbadet
Brunch: Mormors Café or Bakfickan bakery-café
Get to know the city: Bike along the ramparts, and follow the old streets to the square. Do as the locals do and stop somewhere along the ramparts for a picnic
Day 3
Day trip: Head slightly out of the city to visit Steinringfeltet (stone rings) just outside of Fredrikstad, an ancient and site of stone circles that date back to the Bronze age. Take a ride through the woods to reach Ravneberget Bygdeborg, a hillfort with magnificent views of Fredrikstad, Torsnes and the sea.
Nearby is the Storedal Cultural Center, an outdoor sculpture park with sensory garden
Cocktails: Visit rooftop cocktail bar Savoy Terrasse, for amazing views and delicious drinks.
Day 4
Relax: make breakfast, spend the morning chilling out
Ride: choose a route out in the countryside
Dinner: for casual fine dining with a fish focus and view of the river, book at Slippen; at Restaurant KØL for grill and meats with outdoor dining in the main town, or Nomads social dining restaurant for small, Asian-inspired dishes
Day 5
Fly home; try to leave in the morning
Other options for Fredriskstad
Markets are on a Saturday morning in the Old Town Square. Collect goodies for a picnic lunch and head to have a picnic at the Vollane ramparts of the Old Town.
Østfold art centre has art exhibitions and a small café offering delicious food and wonderful views of the Glomma river.
Blå Grotte, St. Croix and Gamlebyen Kulturhus are all culture houses that host concerts, theatre, dance, and puppet shows.
Café Magenta. The garden at the old town culture house is also a wonderful place to spend a summer evening.
Other 4-5 night Itineraries
Cotswolds for William Morris - a weekend in high Summer
A friend and I visited Kelmscott Manor in The Cotswolds. Where else we stayed and ate.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Kelmscott Manor and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in early June
Highlights include a visit to William Morris’ summer home, Kelmscott Manor, a country walk to Lechlade, and dinner at Thyme
Based on a pair of friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Visiting the Cotswolds? Pioneering.
William Morris? Would never have thought……….
Everyone knows the Cotswolds — it’s one of the UK’s most sought-after destinations. But that popularity can be a double-edged sword: high-season prices, packed villages, and the risk of a trip that feels more generic than special. I wanted to see if it was possible to experience the Cotswolds differently.
The idea started with Kelmscott. I’d never thought much about William Morris, but a friend mentioned it, and it piqued my interest. I began to dig into the area’s links to traditional English craft and design, and it felt like a good fit for a short, thoughtful trip.
I planned a two-night stay with a simple itinerary: Kelmscott, a countryside walk, and dinner — all easy to do without a car. We stayed at a pub with a restaurant, which made the logistics smooth and gave us a cosy base. I skipped the more obvious hotspots and Instagram-famous villages, aiming instead for a quieter, more grounded experience about English heritage.
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
When it comes to these kinds of places, I think, there can be a hefty dose of disappointment when you get there as it is thronged to the rafters with tourists and you had to pay through the nose to stay there in high summer. Thankfully, this wasn’t our experience on this trip. We found Kelmscott to be alive with activity but not crowded, and there was nothing at all that we had to queue for. Thyme, similarly, wasn’t overdone nor packed with people trying to fill an Instagram reel.
If you have any interest at all in traditional England, and perhaps learning a little more about one of our most important and beloved artists, thinkers and businessmen, I can highly recommend a trip to Kelmscott.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely. We travelled as a pair of friends, and the three booked activties on Saturday - Kelmscott, walk, then dinner - was a perfect day of memories that we have regularly reminisced about since.
I think it would work equally well to stay a little further out and take a circular bike ride with Kelmscott as the destination.
Also, staying with the pub, with the benefit of a restaurant for dinner on the day of arrival and breakfast on the day of departure, made a 2 night stay very easy indeed.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit Cotswolds again, though would focus on another area.
WHEN
Early June
Probably the most beautiful month to visit England, in my view. Spectacular blue skies and warm sunshine.
TRAVEL MEANS
Car
Drive from Leeds takes about 2.5 hours
ACCOMMODATION
The Plough Inn, Pub with Rooms
literally a short walk to Kelmscott Manor
well suited for a pair of friends
slightly tricky parking
a touch noisy due to it being a pub
Kennet, 1883, By William Morris - Photo by Birmingham Museums Trust on Unsplash
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the evening, arrive and settle in
Dinner: at The Plough Inn
Day 2 - Saturday
Kelmscott Manor & Gardens: Seeing up close and personal, the spot where William Morris (and his wife and some other artist hangers-on) would spend summer. The house is filled with remnants of his artistry, as well as that of his wife, Jane, and their life of collecting and making of beautiful things. The garden is also an absolute delight.
Walk: Walking loop from Kelmscott to Lechlade and back, 10km
Dinner & Art: Thyme - couldn’t recommend this place highly enough. The food was superb, as was the service, and the open dining room-kitchen-lounge area, which I believe was a converted barn, contributed greatly to the experience. Thoroughly modern and luxurious. We were also allowed a private view of the art exhibition that was on in the neighbouring space.
Day 3 - Sunday
Breakfast at The Plough Inn
Drive home
Sewing & Wearing
Other Short UK Itineraries
Stopover in Denver: a plan for 24 hours
My itinerary for a 24 hour stop in Denver.
Why stopover in Denver?
Denver is the principal city of Colorado state, between mountain ranges and prairie flatlands, known as the ‘Mile High’ city, and famed for its perpetually sunny climate. It’s roughly central if moving north to south in the USA, and about one third the ways in if moving west to east, so an ideal stop point for a road trip, or a schedule of flights.
Colorado’s varied topography and picturesque peaks and valleys makes it perfectly suited for outdoor pursuits regardless of the temperature; people come here to raft, fish, ski, mountain bike, horseride, run and hike year-round. That same topography makes for a marvellous road trip through the state if you aren’t the adventuring kind.
A stop off here promises craft beer
Itinerary At A Glance
1 day itinerary for Denver, Colorado in the central Southwest of the USA, packing in art, city tour and comedy show
WHEN
June, July, August or September
Pikes Peak Hill Climb is typically on annually in June, so coordinate a visit to be able to attend this event
ACCOMMODATION
The Westin, Denver International Airport
Since this is for a layover stop, avoid the hassle of driving into the city by staying close to the airport and use the airport train to travel into the city.
SCHEDULE OF ACTIVITIES
Clyfford Still, PH-1186, 1955
Courtesy of Clyfford Still Museum
Morning Scoot Tour: Book a 2 hr moped tour of the city. Alernatively, rent a scooter via the Lyft and Lime apps
Lunch: On Wednesday or Thursday, Civic Center Eats, rallys together the city’s food trucks and live music (spring through to autumn).
Art: Visit the Clyfford Still Art Museum - this artist bequeathed his work to any American city willing to house, display and care for it in its entirety. 20 American cities contended for the privilege; Denver won.
Wander: Confluence Park offers riverside walks
Dinner & Evening Comedy: Dinner on Larimer Square, for a view of the founding street of Denver and book a show at Comedy Works to round off the evening
Other Road Trip Itineraries
Småland, Sweden: a leisure cycling travel itinerary
Travelling in summer, my imagined itinerary for 7 nights in Smaland, Sweden. Cycling amid lakes, islands, country lanes, and deep forests.
Why Småland?
Research for this trip started with a friend, who ran an ultra-marathon around the island archipelago of Stockholm, extolling the virtues and beauties of this region. So I set a-looking for a possible trip to Sweden.
Turns out, the archipelago around Stockholm is famed for its beautiful maze of waterways and islands, peppered with second homes and cabins owned by city residents in pretty coastal towns for weekend trips and outdoor activities. While stunning, the many islands often means travel by boat and my other half gets badly seasick so I started to rule it out……………but Sweden looked too much like the exact kind of place I like to holiday, so I continued doggedly researching.
Gothenburg, Värmland, Lake Vänern, Öland………on and on I went, looking at places to stay and things to do, trying to spot the one that just seemed to tick all our boxes……….until a chance stumble had me in Småland and that set my tail wagging.
It is a land of deep forests, sparkling lakes and teensy cities punching above their weight with foodie and cultural scenes to rival that of larger urban centres. There are proper MTB facilities at various trail centres around the region. Other fun facts include that IKEA grew from being a small mail order company in the forests of Småland to the global phenomenon it is now, and between Växjö and Kalmar on the coast is the famed ‘Kingdom of Crystal’ - a string of glass-blowing communities reinvigorated, revitalised and turned into a unique tourist destination. Many describe this place as all of Sweden in miniature.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 night independent itinerary for Småland in southern Sweden
Based on flying in and out of Gothenburg from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include biking the countryside, outdoor forest dining, experiencing the traditions of the glassblowing villages and some art locations celebrating the Swede’s famed sensitivity to great design
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
June or July
For the driest, warmest and lightest months, but I would still plan for mixed weather.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds into Gothenburg, changing in Amsterdam
This trip will also require car hire for the entirety of the trip, along with bike hire which is capable of handling gravel surfaces
ACCOMMODATION
To make the most of the weather, the views and the outdoorsy nature of this trip, a traditional Swedish summer house - ferienhaus - would be my top pick ideally with some outdoor space. Either Gränna, Jönköping, or the stretch of land between them would make a good base. In order of preference:
Gorgeous and modern ferienhaus on the edge of a small lake between Jönköping and Växjö
Apartment in a listed building in Gränna, overlooking Lake Vättern
Modern countryside ferienhaus between Jönköping and Växjö
Apartment on the Smålandsgården estate in Gränna
IMPORTANT NOTE FOR BOOKING! Summer accommodation in the Swedish countryside books up very very quickly - note that its is also very common for self-catering homes to only allow a minimum of a 1 week stay, and not uncommon for them to enforce a 2 week minimum stay. This is a holiday where you will need to plan well in advance and get booking.
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - arrive
Try to arrive in the morning
Day 2 - biking Visingsö Island on Lake Vättern and explore Gränna
In the morning. head to Visingsö Island to bike the 25 km island perimeter path which takes between 2 and 3 hours. Lush oak forests and farmland co-exist on Visingsö, and along the way are several possibilities for a picnic break. More info found here
Explore the town of Gränna in the afternoon and stay for dinner
Day 3 - Experience the Crystal Kingdom (Glasriket in Swedish)
The Glass Kingdom is a cluster of villages between the cities of Kalmar and Växjö, which has been the centre of the country’s world-renowned glassblowing community since 1742. There is the Kosta Boda Art Gallery, designed by Bruno Mathsson in the early 1950s. At the Glassworks in Målerås, you can have a go at glassmaking, wander the walking/biking path and, most excitingly, partake in a traditional ‘hot shop herring’ evening meal (hyttsill in Swedish). Hyttsill evenings date back to the days when the glassworks acted as a focal point for the local community – an after-hours meeting place for workers, hunters from the surrounding forest and, not least, wandering tramps. When the glassblowers go home for the day, long tables are set up in the glassworks and the chef fries salted herring in the cooling pipe – where earlier in the day, finished glassware has been slowly cooled down. He brings trays of crispy bacon and isterband sausages to the table. Jacket potatoes, genuine Småland ostkaka pudding. Glasses are filled with chilled beer from the basement… Soon, the singing creates a warm atmosphere in the smeltery
Day 4 - biking Åsnen National Park and dinner in Växjö
About 40 minutes south of Växjö, is the Åsnen National Park, the newest in Sweden. Spend the day cycling its lanes, forests and lakesides, using this helpful site for inspiration on routes
Have dinner in Växjö, whose culinary scene rivals that of any larger city. Five of its restaurants are featured in the White Guide (Scandinavia’s leading restaurant guide), and the hotel/restaurant PM & Vänner was awarded a Michelin star for its modern take on Småland cuisine.
Day 5 - long day ride loop from Jönköping to Bunn and back
90km round trip on quiet country roads, this loop apparently takes you through some of loveliest countryside, into the famed village of Bunn, and back into Jönköping. Budget for 6-7 hours on the bike with more info here.
Day 6 - foraging and forest dining
Make a booking at one Smaland’s Edible Country Tables using this guide for what to forage from the Sweden countryside
Day 7 - long day ride loop between along the southern edge of Lake Vättern
70km round trip through the apple orchards and country lanes between Jönköping and Gränna
Day 8 - final breakfast and head home
Have one final breakfast of coffee and kanelbulle (cinnamon bun)
Try to leave in the afternoon
Back-up plans for rainy days
Longest zipline in Europe at Little Rock Lake
Visit the IKEA Museum in Älmhult, on the central southern border of the region
Take an Elf Safari at Grönåsen Elk and Livestock Park
Visit Vandalorum Art & Design Museum in Varnamo (between Jönköping & Växjö)
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Isterband (pork, barley and potato sausage) with pickled beetroot and dill-stewed potatoes is a classic Småland dish.
Other Summer Stuff
The Swedish West Coast - a twin-centre itinerary with biking, hiking, sculpture and excellent baking
Travelling in early summer, how we enjoyed 12 nights on the West Coast of Sweden. Hiking, biking and outdoor dining all feature.
Why the Swedish West Coast?
The entirety of Sweden’s coastline is both vast and varied - there are rocky granite coasts, deep sand-dune backed beaches of fine golden sand, vast island archipelagos of islands, islets and skerries connected to the mainland by bridges or chain ferries, forests right up to the coast, high cliffs, even inland lakes the size of inland seas. Just off the coast there are deep forests and meandering lanes amid a patchwork of meadows and farms.
The West Coast of Sweden has Gothenburg (Sweden’s second largest city, and home of Volvo) as the major urban base, but outside of that there is plenty of nature, both wild and tamed, for outdoor exploring, either on two wheels or on two feet. This is the summer playground of many a-Swede but not often visited by folks from the UK, so naturally, I feel like a jammy bugger, excited to be discovering something so authentically Swedish.
We based ourselves in Halland, just south of Gothenburg. It’s beachy, breezy, and brilliant for bikes. Halmstad, the main town, kicks off Sweden’s first national cycle trail and has a laid-back, surfy vibe.
Head north and you hit Bohuslän, a dreamy stretch of smooth granite islands and tiny fishing villages. It’s all red cottages, salty air, and kayaks weaving through the islets. It feels like a postcard.
We spent 12 sun-soaked days here—27°C and blue skies the whole way. Apparently, that’s rare. But we’ll take it.
Itinerary At A Glance
12 night independent itinerary for Halmstad in Halland province and Orust island on Bohuslän coast
Based on flying from Leeds into Gothenburg, with a hop in Amsterdam
Highlights include DIY outdoor dining in one of the Edible Country tables, Bronze Age rock carvings, biking the famous Kattegattelden coastal trail, hiking and outdoor cooking in the forest on Midsummer’s Eve, and plenty of fresh baked goods at cafes with seaviews
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Late June/early July
Driest, warmest and lightest months, plan for mixed weather.
Note also that, outside the major urban centres, many of the summer homes, tourist attractions, ferry routes and eateries are only operational May to September, so visiting outside of these times is a very different (and probably trickier) prospect.
TRAVEL MEANS
Leeds to Gothenburg with a hop in Amsterdam, flying with KLM
Car also be essential to move between locations, as well as road or hybrid bike hire for the entirety of the stay in Halmstad
ACCOMMODATION
Halmstad/Halland province
We stayed in this Cosy and luxurious villa on the outskirts of Halmstad.
Quiet. Large outdoor space including pool and cooking area. Proper family home with all the mod-cons. Recommended.
Bohuslän Coast
We stayed in this Gorgeous and modern coastal home with incredible views out to sea from the deck.
Recommended, especially if you particularly prize a peaceful and out-of-the-way location.
SCHEDULE
Halmstad in Halland province - Day 1 to 7
Day 1
Arrive: drove to Halmstad from Gothenburg
Collect Bike Rental from Rent-A-Bike Halmstad
Day 2
Bike: Pick a section of the Kattegattelden cycle trail using this extremely handy and comprehensive website to the trail, with an option to download the GPX files.
Cafe: Stopped at neighbourhood cafe Borjes Harplige Konditori for a pitstop and has my very first try of a chokoladbollar. Flipping marvellous and a wide selection for such a small village bakery.
Dinner: at the house
Day 3
Lund: This was one of our only rainy days, on which we headed out to Lund, the ‘Oxford of Sweden’, 1h 30m drive to the south.
Wandered the town, and stopped for coffee and baked goods before heading home - specifically Ramklints Konditorei for traditional Swedish patisserie and Lund Gateau Saluhallen
Day 4
Hike: Went on this Gourmet Hike tour with Anders. Cooked outdoors and checked constantly for ticks…..found some as a matter of fact…
Day 5
Bike: Pick a section of the Kattegattelden cycle trail which includes Falkenberg and explore the town as part of the route
Dinner: Booked in at Köketin Falkenberg, recommended by the White Guide - an excellent choice. The food and the service was superb, proudly Scandi, and just on the right side of ‘fine dining’. Not so progressive that it felt ‘try hard’ but still special enough to have felt like a proper treat. This wasn’t food I can make at home.
Day 6
Relax: enjoyed the hot weather in the garden
Dinner: BBQ outside
Day 7
Fika: Anders (our tour guide) and his wife, Viktoria, invited us for fika at their home in Halmstad. Viktoria baked a variety of teeny little bakes, from chokoladbiskvier to slices of Prinsesstårta. We sat outside in the shade of a tree with coffee and delicious baked goods and told each other some stories.
Deeply grateful for their invite to join us at their home. A highlight of our trip, for sure.
-
Spend an evening at Rotundan in Norre Katts Park in central Halmstad, with street food options with a musical performance from their cultural program
Take a guided tour of Tjolöholms Slott (Tjoloholm’s Castle)
Visit the Bath House at Varberg (Kalbadhuset Varberg) for a sauna and fika
Take a wander around Helsingborg
Take a trip out to Varberg to dine at Spiseriet (for tables of less than 6 people, it is drop-ins only)
Spend an afternoon in Halmstad, using this self-guided history walk as my rough guide - its only in Swedish but nice to have a paper copy for a bit of slow-ways pathfinding
Stop in for lunch or fika at Söderfamiljen in central Halmstad for a view over the river
Visit the Halland Art Museum or Mjellby Art Museum, to get to know a little more about artists in the region
Book in to ÄNG restaurant on the Ästad Vingård in Halland County. Recently awarded both 1 Michelin Star and a Michelin Green Star - first introduced in 2020, the Michelin Green Star is an annual award which highlights restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices
Do a local beer tasting on Friday or Saturday nights at Halmstad Brygghus
Day 8 - drive between Halmstad & Bohuslän
Made a pitstop at the café town of Alingsås, the Swedish Capital of Fika, for a wander around the town and its many cafes. Cute, not astounding.
About 300km, 3hrs 30mins driving
Bohuslän Coast - Day 8 to 13
Day 8
Settle in, buy supplies
Day 9
Sculpture Park: Went to the Pilane outdoor sculpture park on Tjorn, open May to September from 9am to 7pm. Gorgeous.
Lunch: Dined in the courtyard under the blazing sun, at Margareta's Koko Skafferi, Sunsby Sateri. Set in a historic manor estate, the café blends old-world charm with cozy vibes. You can sit indoors among vintage furnishings or outside surrounded by gardens.
Walk: there are walking trails at Sundsby Sateri. We took to one after lunch, to work off the kladdkaka…….which was utterly excellent - a crisp shell with a gooey interior - but also extremely indulgent.
Dinner: at the house
Day 10
Museum: Visited Nordic Watercolour Museum on Tjorn Island
Lunch: Lottas Bak & Farm (Lotta’s Sourdough Bakery & Cafe). Open Wed-Fri 9am to 5pm, Sat 8am to 3pm, Sun 10am to 3pm. A delighful neighbourhood cafe with a back terrace that looks out over a teensy little inlet. Tranquil and relaxed, with great food and an on-site bakery. An ideal spot for a sit-down.
Day 11
Visited the Vitklycke Museum and rock carvings in Tanum, member part of the World Heritage list as an outstanding example of Bronze Age art. Visitors can either join a guided tour or follow the well-marked six kilometre path for an exploration of the many rock carvings at this site. Open 10am to 5pm June to August (more limited opening times April, May, Sept, Oct and Nov).
We chose the independent option.
Pretty breathtaking. The carvings are highly visible, having been repainted to really stand out, and its rather mindbending the quantity that there on the site.One in particualr is a huge depiction of a man, way bigger than human size.
Highly highly recommended.
Day 12
Forgaging & outdoor dining: Booked on one of the Edible Country tables at Ramsvik. Stunning stunning location, perched on a cliff looking out over The Skagerrak—a strait that connects the North Sea to the Kattegat and separates Sweden from Norway and Denmark.
The foraging though, was very very difficult, having only been provided with a stylised line drawing
Day 13
Have one final breakfast of coffee and kanelbulle (cinnamon bun)
Try to leave in the afternoon
-
Wander around Marstrand on Kungälv island
Make day trips to visit a couple of the prize spots on the island of Orust - Gullholmen and Mollösund
Hike Dyron Island boardwalk trail, ending with a stop at the public sauna
Dinner at Brygghuset, Fiskebäckskil- multiple winner of the Whiskey Restaurant of the Year Award, and reputedly knowledgeable in all things seafood
Sewing and Wearing
Other Active Holiday Itineraries
Morbihan, Brittany - a twin-centre trip with road biking and city break
Travelling in early summer, my plan for 10-11 nights in Nantes and the Gulf of Morbihan. An itinerary for biking, art trails, a bit of Jules Verne, eating crepes, visiting medieval towns and castles, and admiring the sunset in pretty port towns.
Why Brittany?
With it’s own language and gastronomy that is heavily influenced by Celtic culture (indeed Brittany counts as one of the six Celtic nations along with Cornwall, Wales, Isle of Man, Ireland and Scotland), visitors are principally drawn to Brittany’s for coastal views, well-preserved historical towns and sites, food treats like salted caramel and crepes, and its unique cultural tradition that is quite distinct from the rest of France.
Tourism is well-established here with a wealth of online information to inform my independent itinerary. Its definitely a region geared up to receive visitors; many of them British, but also many of them French so it looks to have retained authenticity in its touristic offering. It is also well-serviced with transport options from the UK. This is not necessarily the place to discover that feels like I’m the only one to have done so, but I can take advantage of the expansive tourism infrastructure and online resources to get to some of the lesser-known places and design myself a unique itinerary quite easily.
Across the whole region, there seems to be a number of locales that strike my fancy and meet my brief of culturally rich, a little under the mainstream UK travel radar, and with opportunities for biking - Nantes, Quimper and Bénodet, St Malo, the Cote Eméraude, Noirmoutier-en-Île, Dinan, ruins at Carnac…this looks to be the kind of place that I will need several different holidays to see everything I’d like to see.
For this itinerary, I have settled on a design for southern Brittany, starting with a city break in Nantes, followed up with enjoying the coast in the Gulf of Morbihan, in easy reach of medieval town Vannes.
Nantes is the former “City of Dukes”, and was once the administrative capital of Brittany but is now part of the Pays de la Loire. This city looks to be a beauty - art features heavily, history is everywhere, and it looks to be a classy kind of place that isn’t too big to really see on a city break. There is also industry and an important port, and as per the Copenhagenize Index 2017, was marked as the 16th most “bicycle-friendly” city in the world.
The Gulf of Morbihan is a natural harbour; indeed ‘mor bihan’ in Breton means ‘little sea’. It is scattered with little islands, isles and islets; the mainland is lined with pretty little coastal villages; and being on the west coast, it is a beautiful theatre for incredible sunsets. The whole area looks perfect for exploring on a bike; quiet rural roads, excellent views, and for the historical and cultural hit, several castles and the medieval city of Vannes are within easy distance for day trips on two wheels.
Itinerary At A Glance
10 day independent itinerary for Brittany & the Loire Valley in Northwestern France: 3 nights in Nantes, and 7 nights in the Gulf of Morbihan near Vannes
Based on travelling in summer, flying in and out of Nantes from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include getting to know more about Jules Verne, biking around Nantes, taking a brunch tour on the River Erdre, indulging in buttery crepes, hanging out in the vibrant fortified medieval city of Vannes, and e-biking around the craggy coast of the Gulf of Morbihan.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Late June or early July.
Brittany has an extremely pleasant summer from June through to September with mid-20s temperature and fairly low rain during this time also. I will expect changeable weather even in the summer, though typically a few degrees warmer than the UK. The rest of the year is cool (not really very cold) but can be very wet (wetter than Northern England)
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds Bradford to Nantes, with a 2hr stop in Amsterdam
Hire a car to collect from the airport for the entirety of the trip and a road bike.
ACCOMMODATION
Gulf of Morbihan (in my order of preference)
La Villa du Guern - I’d like any one of those suites overlooking the water
I’m not sure I have ever encountered a more original place to stay than this house on the water
La Ferm’h - elegantly furnished eco-gites in Baden
Right outside of Vannes, but with views overlooking the Gulf of Morbihan - great looking Airbnb
Nantes (in my order of preference)
Maisons du Monde Hotel & Suites - my pick would be the Copenhague apartment
Luxurious 2 bed apartment with a grand and opulent personality
Stunner of a split-level duplex
Tasteful & modern 2 bed apartment with welcoming decor and nicely laid out space, about 1 mile from the centre of Nantes
SCHEDULE
Nantes - Day 1 to 4
Visit Chateaux des Ducs – 15th century castle tracing the history of Nantes
Take brunch cruise, a lunch cruise or a dinner cruise aboard the Bateaux Nantais up the River Erdre
This city is so bicycle friendly – I’d try some of these bike routes suggested by France Vélo Tourisme for in and around Nantes
Reputedly, the Quai des Antilles on the western side of the Ile de Nantes is the place to be for an early evening aperitif or beer. The riverside is supposedly lined with bars and cafés, and it bursts into action after sunset.
-
See an art exhibition at the industrial shed unit that is HAB Galérie, located on Île de Nantes
Book a performance at Le Lieu Unique - The last remaining vestiges of the LU biscuit factory established here in 1885 by Louis Lefèvre-Utile have been rehabilitated in 2000 by the architect Patrick Bouchain to give rise to this national centre for drama, dance and music. There is also a Turkish bath, a restaurant and a DJ in the bar on weekends
Follow the Green line through the city past nearly forty public art works and check out the Nymphea artwork at night drifting over the River Erdre
History of printworks at the Printing Museum
Jules Verne Museum, to learn about the city’s most famous artistic son
Wander by the Machines de l’Ile and the Great Elephant – this Jules Verne creation is the emblem of Nantes
Drive to Noirmoutier-en-Île - a flat island littered with cycling trails just off the Atlantic coast and about 1.5 hours from Nantes
Vannes & surrounds - Day 4 to 10
Spend at least half a day walking around half-timbered, fortified medieval town of Vannes. Eat in its cafes, admire it’s marina and walk the ramparts
Take an oyster mini-cruise to Ile aux Moines, to taste the oysters and learn more about their farming and the fragile ecosystem
Take a trip to Quiberon to visit the confectioner’s shop of Henri la Roux, inventor of the famous salted caramel
Bike out to the Fortresse de Largoët, the highest keep in France (2hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Bike out to the Chateau de Tredion for a walk around their sculpted gardens and sculpture park (3hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to Auray-Saint-Goustan for a wander around this pretty port town (2hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to see Rochefort-en-Terre and the Moulin Neuf for a walk around this reputedly beautiful floral village (4 to 5 hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to Carnac to see the ancient standing stones
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Oysters, cider, white wine, galettes/crepes and buttery Breton biscuits are just a few of the famed local treats.
Fish in a beurre blanc sauce, also known as beurre Nantais is a classic dish for Nantes.
Muscadet is a dry, crisp white wine, the most common wine produced in the Loire region.
Nantes Tourisme gives lots of recommendations for restaurants, creperies and wineries in Nantes. There are even some recipes on there for the classic foods of Nantes
Michelin Travel guide offers up several good food options in and around Vannes, Aubay and Baden - I’d probably book a couple of these in advance. There are even a couple of places with a Michelin star
Other Twin Centre Itineraries
