Square neck tiered midi dress in Liberty Heidi cotton poplin
Perfected the fit, and finally making with an expensive fabric, Liberty’s cotton poplin. Detailed dressmaking closeups.
TOTAL TIME COMMITMENT: 17 hours
Toile (without zip, lining, interior seam finishing, basting stitch removal or hemming): none
Cut out & transfer all pattern markings: 3 hours
Main construction: 10 hours
Lining construction, attachment and hemming: none
Finishings (hem, enclose zip): 2.5 hours
Fabric type
Cotton poplin (Liberty)
Fabric weight
110gsm
ADDITIONAL SEAM FINISHING, CONSTRUCTION NOTES & EXTRAS
Cut out four of the sleeve frills, so that you see the print on both sides
Overlock each edge of skirt pattern piece before construction, press open
Overlock raw edges together at gathered tier seam
Overlock raw edges separately before construction on zip seam
Attach bodice facing to rest of garment using stitch-in-the-ditch
VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNT
A truly beautiful dress, perfectly fit at the bodice, bust and shoulder. I have worked so hard on this pattern, I now have two fit versions - one as a pinafore, fit to go over a top, and a closer fitting option (as here) to be worn alone.
The amendment to cut four of the sleeve frills really elevates the finish, where you see a printed face on the underside and upperside of the frill.
The only error is where I have managed to mis-align the top of the zip slightly, which I think is due to sewing the centred zip in one continuous line from neck edge, around bottom, to neck edge. In the future, I plan to sew each side from neck edge down to bottom of zip, sewing twice over the bottom for reinforcement.
Having made the garment multiple times has really paid off, and my technique is improving, which I can see here in this garment. Perhaps my proudest make ever, tied with the wool flannel shirt I made for my partner.
A beautiful addition to my summer wardrobe and one that I am extremely pleased and proud to wear.
Travel itineraries for Summerwear
Pleated blouse in wool flannel from 1970’s Gunne Sax pattern
After some significant design amendments, made a cropped blouse in micro-houndstooth wool flannel. Lessons learnt.
TOTAL TIME COMMITMENT: 19 hours including toile
Toile (without buttons, lining, interior seam finishing, basting stitch removal or hemming) and pattern amends: 7 hours
Cut out & transfer all pattern markings: 1.5 hours
Main construction: 8.5 hours
Lining construction: none
Finishings (buttons, hem): 2 hours
Fabric type
Wool flannel
Fabric weight
estimate 170gsm
VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNT
Size 11 Junior is an excellent starting size for me – I had to make hardly any adjustments to the neck, chest & shoulder (the usual places I need to adjust). The only thing I needed to do was lower the bottom of the armhole, and shorten the bodice by 1 inch. This pattern already had plenty of room at the bust due to the pleats, and plenty of room at the bicep because of the full sleeve. Had this been more fitted in those areas, doubtless I could have also had to do a full bust and fuller bicep adjustment, but the fit across the back, shoulders and chest is particularly nice.
I also adjusted the placement of the stitching across the pleats, raising them up to be more flattering on my petite frame, and also so that they were not so close to the bust area which caused the fabric to pouch out over my full bust, making me look disproportionately large there.
BUTTON HOLES NEED TO BE VERTICAL ON BLOUSES EXCEPT AT THE COLLAR!! I did them horizontally on this, and they extend beyond the edge of the placket, which I will have to live with, but feel a bit daft since they really should be vertical. It did also occur to me that if a blouse pattern has a defined placket, this determines the max size of button I can use.
Also, I need to remember that my choice of interfacing for anywhere there is going to be buttonholes, is really important. I need to choose a facing that will blend in effortlessly when the buttonholes are cut. I used a white interfacing on this, but because it is a darker fashion fabric, you can see little tufts of white where I have cut for the buttonholes. Not a disaster, but would have been so much better to have used a black interfacing.
This is the heaviest fabric I could use for this design I think, and as a matter of fact, it could look much much better on me in a super lightweight fabric like cotton batiste or crepe-de-chine. Made up, wearing it feels a tiny bit like wearing a jacket, so nice and substantial, but I think I would prefer it in a lighter weight fabric. This fabric would be better suited to a trouser or skirt I think.
I learnt a lot about proportioning a loose fit blouse on my petite frame – when there is quite a bit of extra fabric across the front, I need to be very careful and really, these look best on me as cropped blouses, as I ended up doing with this pattern.
Very pleased to find a use for the decorative stitching, but I didn’t do this in a contrasting thread, so it can hardly be seen on the finished blouse.
VARIATION IDEAS FOR ANOTHER MAKE
Make it in a much more lightweight fabric, perhaps sheer as in the sewing pattern photo.
Make the collar, button placket and cuff with a decorative scalloped edge (pattern pieces drafted)
Or make the collar and cuff inserting a piping or lace trim in a contrast colour to define the edge – this will work beautifully well if the main blouse is made in a plain fabric
Travel itineraries for Autumnwear
Ultra wide leg flat-front trousers from Burda 6966
The simplicity, elegance and sophistication of sewing trousers in single wool crepe.
TOTAL TIME COMMITMENT: 9 hours
Toile (without zip, buttons, lining, interior seam finishing, basting stitch removal or hemming): 4 hours
Cut out & transfer all pattern markings (both main fabric and interlining): 1.5 hours
Main construction: 5.5 hours
Lining construction: none
Finishings (hooks, hem): 1.5 hours
Fabric type
Single wool crepe
Fabric weight
280-300gsm
PATTERN CHANGES
Added a little extra flare from the hip down to the hem
Adjusted the fit by lengthening the crotch
SEAM FINISHING & DECORATIVE EXTRAS
Outside leg seams – overlock together
Inside leg seams – overlock together
Crotch – overlock each side separately
Do a lapped zip, rather than a centred zip
VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNT
Very quick and easy to make.
This is a gorgeous, ultra-simple wide leg, which makes a fabulous pair of trousers, with a very minimal upper section (narrow waistband, no pockets, and zip in the centre back) which is flipping excellent for pretty much anything, but particularly a long line top which I want to style left out – its very smooth underneath the top.
The ultra wide leg of Version A brings the drama when paired with a plain fabric.
The work I did to correct the fit of this pattern, means this is now perfect on me.
Using single wool crepe for this was a BRILLIANT idea. It is fluid, and classy. I also don’t find it needs lining.
Other Ideas for Winter
An A-line skirt in Designer’s Guild cotton duck
Experimenting with Designer’s Guild upholstery fabric………..I asked myself: ”how well can cotton duck be applied to dressmaking?”……..what I learnt
TOTAL TIME COMMITMENT: 10 hours
Toile: none
Cut out & transfer all pattern markings: 1 hour
Main construction: 6 hours
Lining construction: none
Finishings (hem): 3 hours
ADDITIONAL SEAM FINISHING & DECORATIVE EXTRAS
Added 4 rows of topstitching to each vertical seam on the skirt, mainly as a way to enclose the raw edges on the inside
Bias-bound hem
Bias-bound pocket bags
VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNT
I do not like the final product – fabric is easy to sew, but it’s far too stiff to wear.
Still not managing to fit the waistband correctly – this has turned out too big again at 30”. Need a better technique for fitting the waistband to ensure the finished garment is a perfect fit on me.
VARIATION IDEAS
I would like to try it again in a much more lightweight fabric (perhaps even a slightly sheer in a double layer?)
Other Skirt Sewing Projects
