Uist and Barra in the Outer Hebrides - riding with white sand views
A trip for leisure riding the Outer Hebrides, with a spot of the weaver’s craft thrown in.
Itinerary At A Glance
5-night independent itinerary for the Uist islands and Barra in the Outer Hebrides, based on driving from Yorkshire and using ferries as needed, in early June.
Highlights include circular rides on North Uist and South Uist, with stops at ancient monuments and wild beaches, a fresh seafood platter, a tour of the machair habitat and time to stroll white sands with optional bracing Atlantic dip
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Early June
This is shoulder season - before the main school holidays, so quieter roads and easier bookings. Book ferries and accommodation in advance, but less pressure than July/August.
Weather is mild (average highs 14–15°C), but highly changeable: expect sun, wind, and the odd shower.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 04:30am to 4:26am
Sunset: 10:15pm to 10:31pm
approx. 17-18 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car and ferry, own bikes for activities
Drive to Ullapool, ferry to Lochmaddy, then drive to your base.
Causeways connect North Uist, Bernerary, Benbecula, South Uist, and Eriskay; there is a short ferry connecting Eriskay to Barra, as well as to South Uist and to Oban on the mainland.
Road bikes or hybrids are ideal; all routes are on tarmac, with some optional gravel detours.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Drive north, ferry to Lochmaddy on North Uist
Collect groceries in Lochmaddy
Settle in, short evening walk on the machair
Day 2
Morning bike ride: North Uist loop (Balranald Nature Reserve & beaches)
Round trip, 38km, 180m climbing
wildflowers, birdlife, white sand beaches, stone circle “Pobull Fhinn”, RSPB reserve
Lunch picnic at from The Dunes Cabin
Afternoon: visit Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum & Arts Centre in Lochmaddy or find a local event to visit though Uist.co
Dinner: order and collect a local seafood platter from Lochmaddy Bay Prawns
Day 3
Morning swim: head to the beach for a morning dip
Bike ride: South Ford Causeway – North Uist Causeway loop from Bayhead
Round trip, 78km, 280m climbing
chapel ruins, white sand beaches, causeway
Coffee & Cake: The Oyster Catcher Bakery
Afternoon & Dinner: relax back at base
Day 4
Tour: Learn about the machair habitat on South Uist with Long Island Retreats. 2hrs, 4x4
Collect more supplies from their croft shop before you go
Visit: Mill and wool centre at Uist Wool
Day 5
Brunch: The Scandinavian Bakery at the Grimsay Community Association
Bike ride: Eriskay & South Uist loop on the Hebridean Way
Round trip, 68km, 340m climbing
pristine beaches, coastal views
Dinner: local seafood at Langass Lodge
Day 6
Relaxed morning: beach stroll or swim
Drive home
RIDING IN UIST
Riding here is a joy for confident leisure cyclists.
The terrain is rarely flat, but climbs are short and the roads are quiet. Expect a mix of open moorland, coastal views, and the occasional punchy hill. Attractions are well spaced for half-day or full-day rides, and there’s always a beach or café for a break.
The wind is a constant companion - sometimes a help, sometimes a challenge. Bring layers and be ready for four seasons in a day.
Other Countryside Itineraries
Harbours to Highlands. A New England road trip itinerary for Summer
A summer touring holiday through New England - Maine, Vermont a Boston.
Itinerary At A Glance
16 night independent touring itinerary for Massachussetts, Maine and Vermont, taking a circular route, starting and finishing in Boston
Based on flying into Boston, and hiring a car for the entirety of the trip
Highlights include cycling the pine forests of Maine, a boat trip out of Boothbay Harbour, burnt ends at Bluebird BBQ, Saturday Farmers Market in Burlington, SUP yoga on Lake Champlain, MTB riding all over the Green Mountain State, Boston Walking Tour and seeing the Red Sox vs The Yankees play at traditional Fenway Park
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
Maine is a long-time holiday destination for domestic tourists though most British people visit New England for the autumn colours, or ‘leaf peeper’ tourists as they are affectionately known locally. We bucked this trend and headed there in high summer, hence, we went without too much expectation.
What we found was green, grand and glorious. Maine smells of pine trees, Lake Champlain is breathtakingly beautiful, and Boston is just hip enough without taking itself too too seriously. Maine in particular is a sailor’s paradise (I’m imagining here - I’m no sailor), with endless islands, coves and inlets to explore but we also found it a delight to explore land on two wheels. Vermont is a superb spot for two-wheeled activities of all stripes. All in all, a recommended spot for a summer visit.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Almost perfectly.
7 nights in Maine was a little too long for us; the location is better suited to folks who like to spend their time on the water - sailing, fishing, kayaking - none of which we do. 4 nights in Maine probably would have worked better for us.
7 nights in Burlington for us was also perfect - plenty of time to really get to know this active city and a lot of MTB options.
3 nights in Boston is ideal.
Drive time between destinations was perfect. Travelling in the car this way, we got to see parts of New Hampshire that we may never visit if it meant making a dedicated holiday there.
Would I make another visit?
Certainly to Vermont, and could even see us returning to spend more time in Burlington itself. The entire Lake Champlain region makes a fantastic destination for biking, whether road or MTB.
I feel I have now seen enough of both Maine and Boston to not return, though I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend either.
WHEN
August
Very warm and sunny was what we experienced for the majority of the trip, with the odd cloudy or rainy few hours.
Typically warm to hot, with rain.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 05:40am to 06:43am
Sunset: 20:18pm to 19:31pm
13-14 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Fly from Manchester to Boston, drive between locations, fly back out from Boston
We obviously took our car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as hiring bikes in both Maine and Vermont
ROUTE & STOPS
Drive 1,028 km, 11 hours 45 mins, over 16 days
Drive Yorkshire to Manchester; Fly into Boston
Drive from Boston to Boothbay Harbour (2h 40m drive) for a 7 night stay
Drive from Boothbay Harbour to Burlington (5h drive) for a 7 night stay; drive through New Hampshire’s White Mountains along the way
Drive from Burlington to Boston (3h 45m drive) for a 3 night stay
Fly Boston to Manchester; drive back to Yorkshire
ACCOMMODATION
Boothbay Harbour
Apartment called ‘Boothbay Harbour Cottage Apartment’ (no longer operating)
Lovely. About a 10 minute stroll from centre of Boothbay Harbour village, and a bakery-cafe just round the corner. Small outdoor space too for reading and relaxing on the warm summer evenings, a place where we regularly did and saw hummingbirds to boot.
Burlington
This carriage house studio apartment
Idyllic. Large studio apartment, kitchenette, private terrace overlooking the mature and immaculate garden, ample space for two (despite only being a studio), parking, located in quick and easy access to both central Burlington and Lake Champlain (each about 15 minutes’ walk). Recommended.
Boston
Apartment called ‘Boston Christopher’ (no longer operating)
Not recommended. Devoid of atmosphere, strange, looking at a brick wall.
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Fly to Boston; Drive Boston to Boothbay Harbour
About 9-10 hours flying; About 420km, 2hrs 40m driving
Boothbay Harbour - Day 1 to 7
Had several breakfast waffles at Mama D’s - with a porch terrace, rocking chair and clapboard exterior, this felt like quintessential New England to me. Good coffee and friendly service, located just outside Boothbay Harbour town, so full of locals for an authentic experience.
Cycled around Southport Island
Visited Maine Lobster Festival in Rockland. Got ‘lobster takeaway’ and watched the locals partake in mad games on the water a la Takeshi’s Castle
Went out on a sailboat with a local guide
Had plenty of blueberry soda - a taste of Maine for us
Day 8 - Drive between Boothbay Harbour and Burlington
Stopped in Jackson, New Hampshire for lunch and a leg stretch. Sought out the covered bridges of New Hampshire along the way.
About 420km, 5hrs driving
Day 8 to 14 - Burlington, Vermont
Had several bakery breakfasts at August First cafe
Cycled into the Island Line Trail into Lake Champlain - 45km loop follows Burlington’s waterfront via the Burlington Greenway and heads out on the beautiful Colchester Causeway three miles into the middle of the lake.
Rode the MTB trails at Cady Hill near Stowe - well worth a visit.
Rode the MTB trails at Saxon Hill, just outside of Burlington - flowy singletrack with boardwalks - recommended
Burlington Farmer’s Market comes to town on Saturday morning and offers a fantastic mix of ready-to-eat treats and tasty ingredients to take home and cook with. We had THE most delicious sour cherry bagel with a cream cheese dip, noshed in the square with the sounds of a guitarist strumming for the pleasure of the market crowd. Delightful.
Dined at Bluebird BBQ, in Burlington, for classic american barbecue, burnt ends and Vermont beer. Recommended.
Did some SUP yoga on Lake Champlain
Day 14 - Drive between Burlington and Boston
About 348km, 3hr 20mins driving
Day 14 to 16 - Boston
Booked tickets for Boston Red Sox vs. NY Yankees at Fenway Park - for me, one of the highlights of the trip, since we didn’t plan this! These two are ancient rivals - we couldn’t have been more lucky to have them be playing each other on the Saturday we were in Boston. A great experience, even for those uninitiated in the game of baseball. Great atmosphere and wonderful memory.
Visited the Patriots Hall of Fame
Took a Walking Tour with Boston by Foot - excellent. Informative and fun.
Had all-American sandwiches at Sam La Grassa in downtown Boston
Day 17 - Fly Boston to Manchester
About 9-10 hours
Sewing projects for a Summer itinerary
Penzance - biking, brunching and lido-bathing in blackberry season
Spending a spell in Penzance, in late summer. Blackberries, biking, brunch and bathing.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Penzance and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in August
Highlights include Saltwater & Geo-thermal lido, dinner at a harbourside fish restaurant, Museum of Global Communications in Porthcurno and a day trip to the Isles of Scilly
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to hype or expectations?
The English seaside can be rather a disappointment to me - I’m talking the seaside towns made popular in the Victorian era that have now descended into a recurrent cheap theme of tacky shops, rickety fairground rides, fish & shop shops, arcades and absolutely zero culture worth speaking of.
I wasn’t necessarily expecting Penzance to be this, but you never know with an English seaside town……..there is always the risk………..Penzance was therefore an absolute surprise. What saves it, I think, is that it is a working harbour town, saved from the fate described above, by having actual industry instead. This isn’t a town built on tourism, its a town built on fishing.
In both Newlyn (where we stayed) and in Penzance, we encountered lots and lots of independent shops and eateries, a friendly and relaxed vibe.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
4 days was spot on. Would have been even better to have been able to use the location as a jump off to the Isles of Scilly, but alas, this wasn’t meant to be (see note on schedule below).
The riding is wonderful, but also challenging - we encountered multiple climbs in excess of 10% and same for the descents. This is not riding for the fainthearted, but we were rewarded by regular stops to graze on the ripe and fragrant blackberries that were fruiting in the hedgerows along the side of the road.
The one thing I will say is that this drive was a looooooooooong way from Yorkshire - it took 9 hours in the end due to bits and bats of roadworks, plus some accidents. I would say that the fact we were there in the height of school holiday season - August - contributed to this experience, so would suggest that if you can, make a visit outside these times, or fin som way to break up the journey. No matter when you go, it is at least 7 hours to drive there, and navigating the busy road network through the middle of England is unlikely to go smoothly.
Would I recommend it? Would I make another visit?
Can definitely recommend it, though for us personally, one trip is likely enough. Maybe we’ll go back in another 10 years.
WHEN
August
This is high season for Cornwall, with the kids being off school. Be sure to book early for best availability.
We got warm (not hot), with one rainy day. Expect changeable weather at any time, including strong sun, rain, mist, fog and wind.
LIGHT
Long days
Sunrise: 05:51am to 6:36am
Sunset: 21:05pm to 20:08pm
16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car & Road bike
Driving from Yorkshire to Cornwall should be about 7 hours each way but expect more for traffic issues.
Road bike for activities while there.
ACCOMMODATION
This rental on Booking.com
1.5 miles to central Penzance
luxury and modern
well suited for a couple
free parking
outdoor space
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Drive, start in the morning, collect groceries, arrive and settle in
Day 2
Bike ride: Round trip, 25km, 350m climbing. Newlyn-Mousehole-Sancreed-Heamoor-Penzance-Newlyn.
Dinner: in the flat
Day 3
Relax: make breakfast, spend the morning chilling out
Bike ride: Round trip, 40km, 580m climbing. Newlyn-Mousehole-Pourthcurno-Lands End-Sennen Cove-St Buryan-Paul-Newlyn.
Visited the Museum of Global Communications in Porthcurno: in 1870, the first international telegraph cable was brought ashore at Porthcurno, connecting Britain to India and later other parts of the British Empire. By the start of World War II, Porthcurno was a critical hub for allied communications with 14 cables coming ashore, carrying some 70% of all communications. A fantastic place to visit. Really tells the story of the pioneers who made our current world of always-on, rapid communication, possible.
Dinner: Booked at Argoe, harbourside fish restaurant. Excellent. Whole monkfish cooked on the bone over coals, to share. Best monkfish I have ever eaten. Terrace overlooking the working harbour fell silent for the evening.
Day 4
THE ORIGINAL PLAN GOT CANCELLED DUE TO WEATHER!
The plane flying across to the Isles of Scilly is teensy, hence, liable to get cancelled if the weather is not favourable. Sady for us, despite every other day being 22 deg.C and sunny, the day we were booked to travel to St Mary’s, the cloud was very low and visibility was too poor to fly.
Day trip to St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly: Fly from Lands End with Skybus (book early - you are unlikely to grab a seat on the day)
Collect a picnic lunch from Hugh Street Café or Tanglewood Kitchen
Walk the St Marys Island Coastal path: 17km, 3.5h hike
THE BACK-UP PLAN!
Go to The Eden Project
Dinner: easy-breezy modern fish-and-hip shop with a twist, Mackerel Sky
Day 5
Morning swim: Jubliee Pool Saltwater Lido & Geothermal Pool, 1 hour session - you need to book this several days in advance - you are highly unlikely to get a spot on the day. Lovely to bob about in the warm pool. Expect it to be busy.
Brunch: 45 Queen St (strictly walk-ins only, open from 10am, closed Monday & Tuesday). Highly recommended.
Drive home
RIDING IN SOUTHWEST CORNWALL
Riding around Newlyn and Penzance is scenic but not effortless. The terrain isn’t mountainous, but it’s rarely flat - short, punchy climbs and winding roads keep you working. Riding shifts beteen deep shade, to bright sea vistas. It’s a region best suited to confident riders who enjoy a bit of unpredictability: weather, narrow lanes, and the occasional steep descent. That said, there are a lot of road options to choose from, so you can mostly avoid traffic, and the views make it worth the effort.
Ideas for another visit
-
Stay on the Roseland Peninsula, just south of Truro and across the water from Falmouth
-
Bike ride: Take in the whole of West Penwith, starting in Penzance, on this 65km road ride
Visit St Michael’s Mount
Evening Show: at The Minack theatre - advance booking essential
Visit Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens (gardens open daily 10.30am – 5.30pm, though Gallery closed Sunday and Mondy) with lunch at Tremenheere Kitchen
Newlyn Art Gallery & Exchange- this gallery has loads of events, including vintage fairs happen in the Autumn, textile workshops and Newlyn art walking tours happening on just 4 to 6 dates in the spring and summer. These need to be booked well in advance, with
Golowan Festival is a 10-day festival of arts, performances, culture and parades. It’s the UK’s second largest street festival and happens in June.
Penzance Art Festival is also on in June
-
Breakfast at Artist Residence
Supper club at Chapel House Penzance
Visit Nancarrow Farm for one of their famed Feasts or Sunday Lunch with home-reared organic meat
Visit Potager Garden for brunch (near Falmouth)
Other Countryside Itineraries
Brest in Winter - combined biking with city break
Brest in Finisterre in the off-season. Winter hikes, thalasso therapy, eating crepes, and admiring the early sunset off the west coast.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for the very northwest tip of France - Finistère in Brittany - choosing the outskirts of Brest as the base
Based on travelling at the very end of winter/start of spring, flying in and out of Brest. Car will also be essential to move around.
Highlights include a winter hike around the Crozon peninsula, artisanale beer and lemonade, biscuits and a visit to one of the most important oceanogrphic centres in the world.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here? Why March?
Brittany is almost always shown in summer — search the internet and its mostly golden light and blue skies. But March offers a different perspective. The climate is similar to southern England: mild, wet, and unpredictable. Expect anything from crisp sunshine to bouncing rain, even the odd snow flurry. It’s not warm, but it’s rarely bitter — daytime temperatures hover around 8–11°C.
This trip uses the outskirts of Brest as a base, giving easy access to coast, countryside, and culture all within an hour’s drive. Finistère, the westernmost part of Brittany, is wrapped almost entirely by ocean. Like Cornwall, with which it shares Celtic roots, the region has an island-like feel: the sea is never far, and often in view.
Brest itself is a major urban centre, rebuilt after heavy WWII bombing. While it lacks historic architecture, it makes up for it with a lively harbour, a strong maritime identity, and a surprising claim - it’s considered the European capital of oceanography, home to over half of France’s maritime researchers.
In March, staying near a city makes sense. Weather may force changes, but museums, galleries, and restaurants stay open year-round. It’s a practical base for an off-season road trip, with plenty of indoor options when the outdoors won’t cooperate.
WHEN
March
Likely chilly (but not freezing)
Like the UK, March can be either cold and snowing, or warm and sunny, with spring bursting forth early. Take clothing options and plan activities that account for these unknowable circumstances.
LIGHT
Moderate daylight
Sunrise: 07:59am to 07:58am
Sunset: 19:02pm to 20:47pm
11-12 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
EITHER
Fly indirect from Manchester to Brest with AirFrance, transferring through Paris
OR
Fly indirect from Leeds to Brest, with KLM-AirFrance, transferring through Amsterdam and Paris
OR
Fly Liverpool to Nantes with Easyjet, then drive 3h 45m to Brest
In summer, there are many more flights, including Leeds to Brest via Dublin, with AerLingus.
ACCOMODATION LOCATION
Near Brest
Just outside of Brest is the Plougastel-Daoulas peninsula, which is easily accessible to Brest via a bridge over the water that connects the two.
There is also the commune of Le Relecq-Kerhuon, just to the east of Brest and giving right out onto the beach.
Either of which would make an excellent base for the delights of both city and country. The views in this part of Finistère are all about ocean, ocean, ocean.
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Fly in the morning, drive in the afternoon, collect groceries, arrive and settle in
Day 2
Brunch: at La Coloc overlooking Brest harbour
Visit Atelier des Capucins: Former shipbuilding workshops, now the largest covered public square in Europe. A huge and diverse public meeting spot with food, performance, art, shopping…also accessible by cable car!
Visit ocean museum 70.8 maritime innovation gallery: Opened in 2020, and located in the Atelier des Capucins, 70.8 is a center for technical and scientific culture dedicated to the ocean, presenting maritime innovation in all its aspects.
Tour Tanguy: for an immersive experience of Brest’s long history
Day 3
Hike Crozon peninsula: Drive to Crozon for a hike
Day 4
Relax
Le Comoedia Galerie d'Art: contemporary gallery with a strong focus on street art
Brasserie Poem Brewery, making artisanale beer and lemonade (Bar open from 4pm to 12:30am on weekends, with tours of the brewery available Fridays only, 9am to 5pm)
Evening Show at Le Quartz theatre
Day 5
Travel home
Ideas for another visit
Visit Peck & Co, a gastronomy concept store, a dining boutique with various inspirations, a place where you can snack from 9:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m
Lunch at Le Castelach
In summer, visit the Crozon peninsula by sea, on board the Brestoâ or the Loch Monna from Brest
In the summer, every 4 years (next is 2028) is the International Maritime Festival, where a flotilla of traditional boats gather in the harbour from all over the world, alongside a programme of artistic and cultural performances
Other Off-season Itineraries
Alnmouth, Northumberland Coast - a weekend in late Summer
My travel journal for a short, late summer break in Alnmouth. Sand and castles.
Itinerary At A Glance
2 day independent itinerary for Alnmouth and surrounds, based on driving from Leeds, in early September
Highlights include morning beach walk, hike around Bamburgh Castle and fish lunch at The Potted Lobster
Based on a group travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Why here?
Alnmouth caught my eye as a quiet corner of Northumberland — easy to reach from Yorkshire, yet far enough to feel like an escape. It’s known for its sweeping beaches and dramatic skies, but the cold North Sea keeps the crowds away, making it feel like a secret.
I’d heard about a standout fish restaurant in Bamburgh (The Potted Lobster), which tipped the balance in favour of this stretch of coast. The idea was set: build an itinerary around seasonal eating, coastal walking, and the kind of scenery that lingers.
Honest verdict
Does it live up to hype or expectations?
I would say it exceeded our expectations in every way. What a gorgeous weekend.
Firstly, the quality of the beaches is just outstanding. Wide, golden powdery sand, and quiet. They are such sterling examples, it’s hard to believe how quiet they are. We personally enjoy beaches for the views (rather than the swimming orthe sunbathing), and these beaches are made for walks and running, and took our breath away as we happened upon one during a coastal walk.
Secondly, there is so much preserved history here. The villages along the coast are out of the way of heavy traffic, so they benefit from not being a throughway to anywhere else - you have to be going there to stumble upon one of these villages. This remoteness has probably protected them from rampant overtouristing or modernisation. Alnmouth was like walking back in time; an idyllic little high street full of character and clearly recently rejuvenated to make the most of its historic charms for the modern traveller.
From start to finish, thoroughly recommended.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
Absolutely.
2 nights in Alnmouth felt correct for us, perhaps up to 3 nights would work. The charms of this massive county are rather spread out, from the AONB coastline in the east, to Kielder Water and Dark Sky Park in the middle, to Hadrian’s Wall on the northern border, but this, in fact, makes it an ideal place for short 2-night trips to sample a little of Northumberland each and every time.
We travelled as a family group, and had just enough going on to give structure to the trip without overwhelming us. Perhaps better would have been to do a group activity on the Saturday afternoon, with dinner at The Potted Lobster rather than lunch.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit Northumberland again, though would focus on another area.
WHEN
Early September
The start of the shoulder season. Best time for sunsets.
We experienced a hot tail to summer, with 27C sunny. Expect anything from hot to cool and rainy.
LIGHT
Moderate daylight
Sunrise: 06:12am
Sunset: 19:59pm
14 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Car
Drive from Leeds takes about 2.5 hours
ACCOMMODATION
The Whittling House, Pub with Rooms
situated on a gorgeous little street running down to the beach
luxury and modern
well suited for a couple
slightly tricky parking
excellent on-site restaurant
a touch noisy due to it being a pub
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - Friday
Drive in the evening, arrive and settle in at The Whittling House, Alnmouth
Dinner: at the Whittling House
Day 2 - Saturday
Lunch: The Potted Lobster, Bamburgh. Top notch fish restaurant
Hike: Walking loop around Bamburgh Castle & town, 14km
Dinner: The Joiners Arms
Day 3 - Sunday
Morning beach walk: there is a gorgeous stretch of golden sandy beach right at the bottom of the high street in Alnmouth. Late summer sees a hazy and fresh start to the morning, perfect for a morning beach stroll
Drive home
Back-up plans for rainy days
Visit inside of Bamburgh Castle - still fully functioning and one of the most imposing castles on the British Isles
Other Short UK Itineraries
Donostia–San Sebastián - a Spring itinerary for fashion and food
Balenciaga, pintxos and bar crawls. My itinerary journal for a long rainy weekend spent in San Sebastian, Basque Country, with a friend.
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Donostia–San Sebastián and surrounds, based on flying from Manchester, in May
Highlights include pintxos food tour, dance theatre performance, the Balenciaga museum in Getaria and dinner at 1 Michelin star restaurant, Alameda.
Based on a two friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does it live up to hype or expectations?
I would say I did have high expectations. There is a lot of hype around Donostia–San Sebastián. A major resort city and formerly the summer residence of the Spanish royal court; to say that this is a place under the radar would be false.
Luckily though, it hasn’t succumbed to too much tourism and maintains an authenticity, with a resident population who genuinely live and work here. We could tell that we were eating in pintxos bars alongside locals. The tours we took were thoughtful and warm, and the food was simply outstanding - again, in line with expectations of this being a ‘foodie’ destination.
From start to finish, the city is thoroughly recommended.
One area that did disappoint though, was the hotel. Basic, shabby, and trading off the view - not a place I would recommend.
Does the itinerary work for the trip?
Perfectly.
4 nights is a great way to enjoy San Sebastian, with plenty of time for wandering and pintxos. Having a mixture of pre-booked cultural activities with time to just wander makes the most of a long weekend. The car allowed us to make trips to places closeby to give us more options.
I would recommend staying in the city centre though (rather than on the outskirts as we did) and note that we had a lot of rain when we visited in May. It may not be immediately obvious that Spain might be quite wet, but this part of Northern Spain is so, and it did rather put a ‘dampener’ on the trip, so to speak. Perhaps better to visit summer or autumn for a chance at better weather.
Would I make another visit?
I would certainly visit the Basque Country again, though, I feel I have now seen enough of San Sebastián. My next trip to the Basque Country would be either as part of a tour of all the Northern Spanish regions, or as a tour across the Greater Basque Region including France and the Pyrenees.
WHEN
May
LIGHT & WEATHER
Moderate daylight. Wet. Cool. Overcast.
Sunrise: 07:01am - 06:31am
Sunset: 21:10pm - 21:41pm
17 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Flight & Car hire
Fly Manchester into Bilbao (BIO), which is about 100km or 1 hr driving from San Sebastian
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Fly in the morning, collect car, arrive and settle in
Day 2
Tour: Pintxos Lunch Tour with San Sebastian Food
Evening show: dance performance at the Victoria Eugenia Theatre
Day 3
Breakfast: found somewhere in the city - plenty of delicious coffee and cake places
Museum: Drove to Getaria to visit Museo Cristóbal Balenciaga (the Balenciaga museum), about 25km, 30 mins driving. Worth it.
Dinner: Pintxos bar crawl through the city
Day 4
Relax: breakfast, spend the morning chilling out
Wander the city: Small and compact, with a city beach - spent an hour or two wandering and soaking up the atmosphere
Dinner: at 1 Michelin Star Alameda - absolutely superb. Advance booking essential
Day 5
Travel home
Ideas for another visit
Take in San Sebastian as part of a tour of the Greater Basque Region, including Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Biarritz, Bilbao and the Pyrenees.
Visit Añana Salt Valley in Álava province. Visitors can take guided tours to find out about the traditional salt-making process and enjoy halotherapy treatments in the salt foot baths.
Take bike rides to see megalithic monument Sorginetxe, "House of Witches" , in Arrizala, Agurain, Cromlech Mendiluze and Dolmen de la Chabola de la Hechicera
Take in San Sebastian as part of a tour of all four of Spain’s northern coastal regions - Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia
Sewing projects for a Spring itinerary
The Swedish West Coast - a twin-centre itinerary with biking, hiking, sculpture and excellent baking
Travelling in early summer, how we enjoyed 12 nights on the West Coast of Sweden. Hiking, biking and outdoor dining all feature.
Why the Swedish West Coast?
The entirety of Sweden’s coastline is both vast and varied - there are rocky granite coasts, deep sand-dune backed beaches of fine golden sand, vast island archipelagos of islands, islets and skerries connected to the mainland by bridges or chain ferries, forests right up to the coast, high cliffs, even inland lakes the size of inland seas. Just off the coast there are deep forests and meandering lanes amid a patchwork of meadows and farms.
The West Coast of Sweden has Gothenburg (Sweden’s second largest city, and home of Volvo) as the major urban base, but outside of that there is plenty of nature, both wild and tamed, for outdoor exploring, either on two wheels or on two feet. This is the summer playground of many a-Swede but not often visited by folks from the UK, so naturally, I feel like a jammy bugger, excited to be discovering something so authentically Swedish.
We based ourselves in Halland, just south of Gothenburg. It’s beachy, breezy, and brilliant for bikes. Halmstad, the main town, kicks off Sweden’s first national cycle trail and has a laid-back, surfy vibe.
Head north and you hit Bohuslän, a dreamy stretch of smooth granite islands and tiny fishing villages. It’s all red cottages, salty air, and kayaks weaving through the islets. It feels like a postcard.
We spent 12 sun-soaked days here—27°C and blue skies the whole way. Apparently, that’s rare. But we’ll take it.
Itinerary At A Glance
12 night independent itinerary for Halmstad in Halland province and Orust island on Bohuslän coast
Based on flying from Leeds into Gothenburg, with a hop in Amsterdam
Highlights include DIY outdoor dining in one of the Edible Country tables, Bronze Age rock carvings, biking the famous Kattegattelden coastal trail, hiking and outdoor cooking in the forest on Midsummer’s Eve, and plenty of fresh baked goods at cafes with seaviews
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Late June/early July
Driest, warmest and lightest months, plan for mixed weather.
Note also that, outside the major urban centres, many of the summer homes, tourist attractions, ferry routes and eateries are only operational May to September, so visiting outside of these times is a very different (and probably trickier) prospect.
TRAVEL MEANS
Leeds to Gothenburg with a hop in Amsterdam, flying with KLM
Car also be essential to move between locations, as well as road or hybrid bike hire for the entirety of the stay in Halmstad
ACCOMMODATION
Halmstad/Halland province
We stayed in this Cosy and luxurious villa on the outskirts of Halmstad.
Quiet. Large outdoor space including pool and cooking area. Proper family home with all the mod-cons. Recommended.
Bohuslän Coast
We stayed in this Gorgeous and modern coastal home with incredible views out to sea from the deck.
Recommended, especially if you particularly prize a peaceful and out-of-the-way location.
SCHEDULE
Halmstad in Halland province - Day 1 to 7
Day 1
Arrive: drove to Halmstad from Gothenburg
Collect Bike Rental from Rent-A-Bike Halmstad
Day 2
Bike: Pick a section of the Kattegattelden cycle trail using this extremely handy and comprehensive website to the trail, with an option to download the GPX files.
Cafe: Stopped at neighbourhood cafe Borjes Harplige Konditori for a pitstop and has my very first try of a chokoladbollar. Flipping marvellous and a wide selection for such a small village bakery.
Dinner: at the house
Day 3
Lund: This was one of our only rainy days, on which we headed out to Lund, the ‘Oxford of Sweden’, 1h 30m drive to the south.
Wandered the town, and stopped for coffee and baked goods before heading home - specifically Ramklints Konditorei for traditional Swedish patisserie and Lund Gateau Saluhallen
Day 4
Hike: Went on this Gourmet Hike tour with Anders. Cooked outdoors and checked constantly for ticks…..found some as a matter of fact…
Day 5
Bike: Pick a section of the Kattegattelden cycle trail which includes Falkenberg and explore the town as part of the route
Dinner: Booked in at Köketin Falkenberg, recommended by the White Guide - an excellent choice. The food and the service was superb, proudly Scandi, and just on the right side of ‘fine dining’. Not so progressive that it felt ‘try hard’ but still special enough to have felt like a proper treat. This wasn’t food I can make at home.
Day 6
Relax: enjoyed the hot weather in the garden
Dinner: BBQ outside
Day 7
Fika: Anders (our tour guide) and his wife, Viktoria, invited us for fika at their home in Halmstad. Viktoria baked a variety of teeny little bakes, from chokoladbiskvier to slices of Prinsesstårta. We sat outside in the shade of a tree with coffee and delicious baked goods and told each other some stories.
Deeply grateful for their invite to join us at their home. A highlight of our trip, for sure.
-
Spend an evening at Rotundan in Norre Katts Park in central Halmstad, with street food options with a musical performance from their cultural program
Take a guided tour of Tjolöholms Slott (Tjoloholm’s Castle)
Visit the Bath House at Varberg (Kalbadhuset Varberg) for a sauna and fika
Take a wander around Helsingborg
Take a trip out to Varberg to dine at Spiseriet (for tables of less than 6 people, it is drop-ins only)
Spend an afternoon in Halmstad, using this self-guided history walk as my rough guide - its only in Swedish but nice to have a paper copy for a bit of slow-ways pathfinding
Stop in for lunch or fika at Söderfamiljen in central Halmstad for a view over the river
Visit the Halland Art Museum or Mjellby Art Museum, to get to know a little more about artists in the region
Book in to ÄNG restaurant on the Ästad Vingård in Halland County. Recently awarded both 1 Michelin Star and a Michelin Green Star - first introduced in 2020, the Michelin Green Star is an annual award which highlights restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices
Do a local beer tasting on Friday or Saturday nights at Halmstad Brygghus
Day 8 - drive between Halmstad & Bohuslän
Made a pitstop at the café town of Alingsås, the Swedish Capital of Fika, for a wander around the town and its many cafes. Cute, not astounding.
About 300km, 3hrs 30mins driving
Bohuslän Coast - Day 8 to 13
Day 8
Settle in, buy supplies
Day 9
Sculpture Park: Went to the Pilane outdoor sculpture park on Tjorn, open May to September from 9am to 7pm. Gorgeous.
Lunch: Dined in the courtyard under the blazing sun, at Margareta's Koko Skafferi, Sunsby Sateri. Set in a historic manor estate, the café blends old-world charm with cozy vibes. You can sit indoors among vintage furnishings or outside surrounded by gardens.
Walk: there are walking trails at Sundsby Sateri. We took to one after lunch, to work off the kladdkaka…….which was utterly excellent - a crisp shell with a gooey interior - but also extremely indulgent.
Dinner: at the house
Day 10
Museum: Visited Nordic Watercolour Museum on Tjorn Island
Lunch: Lottas Bak & Farm (Lotta’s Sourdough Bakery & Cafe). Open Wed-Fri 9am to 5pm, Sat 8am to 3pm, Sun 10am to 3pm. A delighful neighbourhood cafe with a back terrace that looks out over a teensy little inlet. Tranquil and relaxed, with great food and an on-site bakery. An ideal spot for a sit-down.
Day 11
Visited the Vitklycke Museum and rock carvings in Tanum, member part of the World Heritage list as an outstanding example of Bronze Age art. Visitors can either join a guided tour or follow the well-marked six kilometre path for an exploration of the many rock carvings at this site. Open 10am to 5pm June to August (more limited opening times April, May, Sept, Oct and Nov).
We chose the independent option.
Pretty breathtaking. The carvings are highly visible, having been repainted to really stand out, and its rather mindbending the quantity that there on the site.One in particualr is a huge depiction of a man, way bigger than human size.
Highly highly recommended.
Day 12
Forgaging & outdoor dining: Booked on one of the Edible Country tables at Ramsvik. Stunning stunning location, perched on a cliff looking out over The Skagerrak—a strait that connects the North Sea to the Kattegat and separates Sweden from Norway and Denmark.
The foraging though, was very very difficult, having only been provided with a stylised line drawing
Day 13
Have one final breakfast of coffee and kanelbulle (cinnamon bun)
Try to leave in the afternoon
-
Wander around Marstrand on Kungälv island
Make day trips to visit a couple of the prize spots on the island of Orust - Gullholmen and Mollösund
Hike Dyron Island boardwalk trail, ending with a stop at the public sauna
Dinner at Brygghuset, Fiskebäckskil- multiple winner of the Whiskey Restaurant of the Year Award, and reputedly knowledgeable in all things seafood
Sewing and Wearing
Other Active Holiday Itineraries
Andalusia by Wheel
Travelling in winter, journal and itinerary of our 7 night stay in Andalusia - starting with a Seville city break followed by biking around Vejer de la Frontera in Cadiz province.
Andalusia by Wheel
Exploring Seville and Vejer by bike and cuisine - off the main tourist track, in the hush of late winter when the crowds crowds fade to a murmur and orange blossom scents the air.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 day independent itinerary for Andalusia, 3 nights in Seville and 4 nights in Vejer de la Frontera
Based on flying from Leeds into Malaga, in March
Highlights include authentic tapas walking tour and live flamenco show in a very small theatre, meandering through the tiny lanes of Seville’s barrios, hiring scooters for an independent scoot around the city, and e-biking around Cadiz province.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Does the place live up to expectations?
Yes, yes, yes and yes.
Seville is probably on the hitlist of many a traveller and now that I have been, I’d say it deserves such a coveting. Probably the most architecturally beautiful and sensorially-stimulating city I have ever been to - the buildings were a visual delight, it smelled of orange blossom and it is literally filled with the lingering sounds of flamenco guitar.
We found history and culture aplenty, with marvellous food (as long as you stay away from the tourist spots) and great drink.
Vejer de la Frontera is one of the white hilltop towns (Pueblos Blancos in Spanish) of the Serranía de Ronda region. The most famous of these towns is Ronda, but there are many to choose from and I chose Vejer for it being one of the slightly lesser-known ones while still being one of the more sizeable and visitor-orientated. We found it to be beautiful, welcoming, and an ideal base for e-biking its surrounds. The biggest surprise was how verdant the area around Vejer was; we expected arid and instead was rewarded with scenes not dissimilar to the green and rolling hills of the Yorkshire Dales so it is a surprise that this isn’t a more known cycling destination. It’s an ideal location for being on two wheels. My boyfriend stated that Vejer was the best place we have ever been cycling – and it was absolutely superb. For anyone vaguely interested in cycling while on holiday, leisurely or hardcore, there is much to enjoy hereabouts.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Definitely. This city does winter very very well - mild and sunny with blue skies, pleasant but not hot. Don’t make the mistake of thinking you should go in shorts and flip flops - you’ll not only look like a tourist, you’ll also be shivering in the shade.
An ideal spot for a March city break with minimal crowds and beautifully sunny and mild skies; the ideal counterpoint to the cold and grey of Northern England at this time.
3+4 also worked extremely well, with the right amount of time in each location and an opportunity to extend a city break into a week long trip with the second, more countryside location. As a framework, I will look to replicate this again.
Two points of note: Doing two tours in Seville meant the guides repeated similar historical anecdotes and facts – probably best to do just one tour otherwise it can start sounding repetitious. Duplex Asilah wasn’t the ideal type of accom for bikes as it was tiny so we had to ask the reception to store them for us. Not at all the fault of the accom, but rather something I need to consider when booking a place to stay when we need room to store bikes.
Would I make another visit?
Rare is the place that touches me so much that I want to visit again, to get deeper under its skin; Cadiz province is one of those rare places. We had the most fantastic trip from start to finish.
If we went to Seville again, we’d stay in Triana for a slightly more authentic experience, though we felt we got a good flavour of the city in our 2.5 days so I suspect a revisit is a while away.
I very much want to return to Cadiz province to see and experience some more of its loveliness. Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Tarifa, Cádiz, Castellar de la Frontera in the Alcornocales, and Jerez de la Frontera are now on my hitlist.
WHEN
Early March
Shoulder season with mild weather, fewer crowds, orange blossom in Seville
We got blue skies, still winds, sunny. Warm in the sunshine, but you needed coats, long sleeves, socks and covered toes for the cooler mornings, evenings and shade.
LIGHT
Moderate Days
Sunrise: 7:45am to 7:20am
Sunset: 7:10pm to 7:17pm
Approx. 11–12 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Direct flight from Leeds into Malaga, with Jet 2
We hired a car for the entirety of our trip, and it would be difficult, (though not impossible) to do without it.
Seville is a 2.5 hour drive from Malaga airport; Vejer is about a 1h 40m drive from Seville, then Malaga airport is about 2h 15m from Vejer.
We hired an e-bike for the entirety of our stay in Vejer from Bicicletas Francisco who also handily provided us with some local maps and biking routes.
ACCOMMODATION
Seville - Suites Murillo Alcazar (in Barrio Santa Cruz)
superb location right next door to the Alcazar
ideally walkable for pretty much everything
comfy bed
plenty of space for two people
felt a teensy bit rundown and the breakfast was ‘meh’.
Vejer de la Frontera - La Casa del Califa in the self-catering Duplex Asilah
a collection of real townhouses that have been brought together to make a hotel
gorgeous location with fab service
an excellent restaurant
lacked any soundproofing so we found it was a bit noisy into the evening and in the early morning.
SCHEDULE
Alcázar entrance
Seville - Day 1 to 4
Day 1
Fly: into Malaga airport (convenient flight schedule, running all year from most UK airports, even regional ones)
Collect hire car
Drive: to Seville, 2h 11m driving, 210km
Check-in, settle in, collect a few groceries
Day 2
Stroll: through Barrio Santa Cruz
Lunch: Torres y Garcia, Calle Harinas, 2, 41001 Sevilla
Very modern and hip café right in central Seville but not a single tourist in it. Surprisingly large, and the food was both healthy and cooked with care.
Tour: Sunset City bike tour with Sevilla Bike Tours
Very authentic tour around the city including the outer neighbourhoods that you would be unlikely to see on a short city break. Sunset felt like a good choice as the Spaniards seem to come alive in the early evening and the streets were buzzing. Excellent and passionate guide too.
Note that Seville is almost pancake flat, so this is easy for anyone to do.
Dinner with Drinks: Taberna Alvaro Peregil, Mateos Gago, 22, 41004 Sevilla
Teensy little tapas bar on a street of restaurants made for tourists. Ignore the rest and go here for a taste of that classic Seville experience. Menu is classic, simple, straightforward and tasty.
Day 3
Lunch: Crustum Panem, Calle Puente y Pellón, 24, 41004 Sevilla.
Properly good bakery selling all manner of authentic baked goods. We had empanadas and bread. Top marks for a lunchtime snack.
Evening: Tapas y Flamenco tour with MIMO.
This was superb and probably the best thing we did during our stay in Seville. We visited a small flamenco school in Triana for an authentic and intimate flamenco 45 minute performance of two dancers, one singer and one guitarist. I have chills even now, months after the trip, just thinking about how the performance made me feel.
This was no tourist thing; this felt like the real deal.
These performers exhibited their craft and training with feeling and passion, and the audience was a mixture of locals and tourists in the know. We were then taken off to 3 tapas establishments in Triana and our knowledgeable guide ordered for us - food and drink. Everything was delicious and we left a bit tipsy and fully full like a full thing on full day. 11 out of 10 for this tour.
Day 4
Tour: Alcazar tour with Feel the City tours.
Good tour of the Alcazar, that filled in the historical detail and importance of the building that we would miss if we just went in solo (which you can do if you want to). The only thing about this is that it was very ‘classically touristy’ and the guide’s script sounded memorised and a bit rote. Good, just not outstanding.
Lunch: Gocho Neo Charcuteria, Calle Puente y Pellón, 19, 41004 Sevilla
Teeny little shop for a fresh ham sandwich, with the jamon sliced right in front of you. We had one with a bag of crisps and it was delish.
Drive to Vejer: 160km, 1h 45m driving
Afternoon: Arrive and settle into accommodation, explore Vejer’s cobbled streets and craft shops.
Views from La Breña y Marismas del Barbate Natural Park
Vejer de la frontera & surrounds - Day 4 to 8
Day 5
Ride: Vejer to Barbate loop, 40km
Combined on-road and off-road circular cycle route, Vejer to Barbate, about 40km round trip. Out to the coast, with a stop for coffee in Barbate, this took in one of the smallest nature parks in Andalusia - the Breña y Marismas del Barbate Nature Park. It contains five different ecosystems: marine, cliff, pine grove, marshland and dunes. Only suitable for off-road bikes.
Dinner: Restaurante El Califa
Restaurant within our hotel and about 6 steps from our door.
This place has quite the reputation, and deservedly so. We ate here on two out of four evenings; the menu selection was superb, the service outstanding, the setting elegant and the food sublime. The best food we ate on the whole trip. You can also book in to eat here even if you aren’t a resident of the hotel.
Day 6
Ride & Lunch: Vejer to Medina-Sidonia, about 70km round trip
Combined on-road and off-road circular cycle route, Vejer to Medina-Sidonia, about 70km round trip which even on an e-bike was a full day journey for the round trip. Medina-Sidonia is another one of the white hilltop towns; the journey to and from it was a beautiful rolling sojourn and the climb into town a punisher. We stopped for lunch in Medina before heading back.
Dinner: El Campero, Avda. de la Constitución local 5C, 11160 Barbate.
Restaurant specialising in the red tuna fished right off shore. The service and the food here was excellent. Most importantly, the waiters were all very knowledgeable and make recommendations about the menu which is useful as many of the tuna cuts and dish descriptions will seem entirely foreign
Day 7
Ride: Vejer to El Palmar de Vejer, about 30km round trip
Combined on-road and off-road circular cycle route, Vejer to El Palmar de Vejer, about 30km round trip. Most leisurely of the three routes
Drinks on the beach: El Palmar
the day was a stunner so we hung out at one of the surfer-type bars that line the beach at El Palmar. The place was absolutely buzzing with all kinds of folk - motorcyclists, families, surfers, groups of friends, groups of families. We had a few bevvies and soaked up the sunshine. Bliss.
Dinner: Restaurante El Califa
Day 8
Drive: to Malaga, 2h 30m driving, 200km
Fly home
Other Twin Centre Itineraries
Morbihan, Brittany - a twin-centre trip with road biking and city break
Travelling in early summer, my plan for 10-11 nights in Nantes and the Gulf of Morbihan. An itinerary for biking, art trails, a bit of Jules Verne, eating crepes, visiting medieval towns and castles, and admiring the sunset in pretty port towns.
Why Brittany?
With it’s own language and gastronomy that is heavily influenced by Celtic culture (indeed Brittany counts as one of the six Celtic nations along with Cornwall, Wales, Isle of Man, Ireland and Scotland), visitors are principally drawn to Brittany’s for coastal views, well-preserved historical towns and sites, food treats like salted caramel and crepes, and its unique cultural tradition that is quite distinct from the rest of France.
Tourism is well-established here with a wealth of online information to inform my independent itinerary. Its definitely a region geared up to receive visitors; many of them British, but also many of them French so it looks to have retained authenticity in its touristic offering. It is also well-serviced with transport options from the UK. This is not necessarily the place to discover that feels like I’m the only one to have done so, but I can take advantage of the expansive tourism infrastructure and online resources to get to some of the lesser-known places and design myself a unique itinerary quite easily.
Across the whole region, there seems to be a number of locales that strike my fancy and meet my brief of culturally rich, a little under the mainstream UK travel radar, and with opportunities for biking - Nantes, Quimper and Bénodet, St Malo, the Cote Eméraude, Noirmoutier-en-Île, Dinan, ruins at Carnac…this looks to be the kind of place that I will need several different holidays to see everything I’d like to see.
For this itinerary, I have settled on a design for southern Brittany, starting with a city break in Nantes, followed up with enjoying the coast in the Gulf of Morbihan, in easy reach of medieval town Vannes.
Nantes is the former “City of Dukes”, and was once the administrative capital of Brittany but is now part of the Pays de la Loire. This city looks to be a beauty - art features heavily, history is everywhere, and it looks to be a classy kind of place that isn’t too big to really see on a city break. There is also industry and an important port, and as per the Copenhagenize Index 2017, was marked as the 16th most “bicycle-friendly” city in the world.
The Gulf of Morbihan is a natural harbour; indeed ‘mor bihan’ in Breton means ‘little sea’. It is scattered with little islands, isles and islets; the mainland is lined with pretty little coastal villages; and being on the west coast, it is a beautiful theatre for incredible sunsets. The whole area looks perfect for exploring on a bike; quiet rural roads, excellent views, and for the historical and cultural hit, several castles and the medieval city of Vannes are within easy distance for day trips on two wheels.
Itinerary At A Glance
10 day independent itinerary for Brittany & the Loire Valley in Northwestern France: 3 nights in Nantes, and 7 nights in the Gulf of Morbihan near Vannes
Based on travelling in summer, flying in and out of Nantes from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include getting to know more about Jules Verne, biking around Nantes, taking a brunch tour on the River Erdre, indulging in buttery crepes, hanging out in the vibrant fortified medieval city of Vannes, and e-biking around the craggy coast of the Gulf of Morbihan.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
WHEN
Late June or early July.
Brittany has an extremely pleasant summer from June through to September with mid-20s temperature and fairly low rain during this time also. I will expect changeable weather even in the summer, though typically a few degrees warmer than the UK. The rest of the year is cool (not really very cold) but can be very wet (wetter than Northern England)
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds Bradford to Nantes, with a 2hr stop in Amsterdam
Hire a car to collect from the airport for the entirety of the trip and a road bike.
ACCOMMODATION
Gulf of Morbihan (in my order of preference)
La Villa du Guern - I’d like any one of those suites overlooking the water
I’m not sure I have ever encountered a more original place to stay than this house on the water
La Ferm’h - elegantly furnished eco-gites in Baden
Right outside of Vannes, but with views overlooking the Gulf of Morbihan - great looking Airbnb
Nantes (in my order of preference)
Maisons du Monde Hotel & Suites - my pick would be the Copenhague apartment
Luxurious 2 bed apartment with a grand and opulent personality
Stunner of a split-level duplex
Tasteful & modern 2 bed apartment with welcoming decor and nicely laid out space, about 1 mile from the centre of Nantes
SCHEDULE
Nantes - Day 1 to 4
Visit Chateaux des Ducs – 15th century castle tracing the history of Nantes
Take brunch cruise, a lunch cruise or a dinner cruise aboard the Bateaux Nantais up the River Erdre
This city is so bicycle friendly – I’d try some of these bike routes suggested by France Vélo Tourisme for in and around Nantes
Reputedly, the Quai des Antilles on the western side of the Ile de Nantes is the place to be for an early evening aperitif or beer. The riverside is supposedly lined with bars and cafés, and it bursts into action after sunset.
-
See an art exhibition at the industrial shed unit that is HAB Galérie, located on Île de Nantes
Book a performance at Le Lieu Unique - The last remaining vestiges of the LU biscuit factory established here in 1885 by Louis Lefèvre-Utile have been rehabilitated in 2000 by the architect Patrick Bouchain to give rise to this national centre for drama, dance and music. There is also a Turkish bath, a restaurant and a DJ in the bar on weekends
Follow the Green line through the city past nearly forty public art works and check out the Nymphea artwork at night drifting over the River Erdre
History of printworks at the Printing Museum
Jules Verne Museum, to learn about the city’s most famous artistic son
Wander by the Machines de l’Ile and the Great Elephant – this Jules Verne creation is the emblem of Nantes
Drive to Noirmoutier-en-Île - a flat island littered with cycling trails just off the Atlantic coast and about 1.5 hours from Nantes
Vannes & surrounds - Day 4 to 10
Spend at least half a day walking around half-timbered, fortified medieval town of Vannes. Eat in its cafes, admire it’s marina and walk the ramparts
Take an oyster mini-cruise to Ile aux Moines, to taste the oysters and learn more about their farming and the fragile ecosystem
Take a trip to Quiberon to visit the confectioner’s shop of Henri la Roux, inventor of the famous salted caramel
Bike out to the Fortresse de Largoët, the highest keep in France (2hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Bike out to the Chateau de Tredion for a walk around their sculpted gardens and sculpture park (3hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to Auray-Saint-Goustan for a wander around this pretty port town (2hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to see Rochefort-en-Terre and the Moulin Neuf for a walk around this reputedly beautiful floral village (4 to 5 hr bike ride round trip from Vannes)
Cycle out to Carnac to see the ancient standing stones
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Oysters, cider, white wine, galettes/crepes and buttery Breton biscuits are just a few of the famed local treats.
Fish in a beurre blanc sauce, also known as beurre Nantais is a classic dish for Nantes.
Muscadet is a dry, crisp white wine, the most common wine produced in the Loire region.
Nantes Tourisme gives lots of recommendations for restaurants, creperies and wineries in Nantes. There are even some recipes on there for the classic foods of Nantes
Michelin Travel guide offers up several good food options in and around Vannes, Aubay and Baden - I’d probably book a couple of these in advance. There are even a couple of places with a Michelin star
Other Twin Centre Itineraries