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A personal journal that invites readers to design their own journeys through the world - with travel, dress and taste.

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Wardrobe Frances Lawrence Wardrobe Frances Lawrence

Applying coloured lipstick to last

I looooove to wear coloured lipstick, but for a long time, suffered from either colour-bleed into the skin around my lips, or the colour simply wearing off within the space of about 30 minutes.

I recently travelled to Australia with Emirates and the (very beautiful) hostess team were almost all wearing red lipstick, and it lasted for like 10 hours. What?!?! What is this magic?!?!

Turns out, to get coloured lipstick to last, requires a few more steps than simple line and apply. Here’s a method that works for me, producing a finish that doesn’t bleed and lasts for several hours at least. Eating or drinking might knock this down a touch.

Before beginning, be sure to always purchase a lip liner that matches your colour as closely as possible - there is no point having a lipstick without the matching liner.

Prep

  • Exfoliate - Use a little sugar to gently scrub the lips and to remove dead skin. This creates a smooth canvas for lipstick, just like how you sand a wall before painting.

  • Balm - Apply a touch of lipbalm and let it absorb. Dry lips cause feathering.

Line twice

  • Line with clear - Outline the lips with a clear wax liner (these are a little tricky to find, but I get mine from Boots) This acts as a barrier to stop pigment from seeping into fine lines around the mouth.

  • Line and fill with coloured liner - Outline lips with a matching lip liner, then fill them in completely with the liner. This helps to anchour the colour.

Apply colour with brush

  • Apply several thin layers of colour - Using a lipstick brush, apply a thin coat, blot with tissue, then reapply. This creates a stain effect that lasts longer and the brish gives you better control.

Lock It In

  • Set with translucent powder - Place a tissue over your lips and dust powder through it. This absorbs oils and prevents bleeding. my absoloute favourite, used it for years, is the Dermophile Loose Powder by T.LeClerc in Banane. Useful for multiple applications, not just this one.

Finish

  • After applying, insert your finger into your mouth, close your lips around it, and pull it out. This removes excess from the inner lip area and mitigates the chances of lipstick on the teeth.

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Travel, Autumn, Europe, France Frances Lawrence Travel, Autumn, Europe, France Frances Lawrence

Paris, Cannes and Grasse - a journey for Autumn

Travelling with a friend, we start in Paris, and end in Cannes. A 6-night cultural and olfactory journey for early autumn.

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 6 night independent itinerary for Paris and Cannes, based on flying from Leeds, in September with a train journey between French locations

  • Highlights include a perfume-making course in Grasse with a visit to the flower garden of the International Perfume Museum, tour of Cannes with a screenwriter, picnic and snorkelling on the Lérins islands, and dinner at glamorous La Petite Maison overlooking the Bay of Cannes.

  • Based on a two friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere

 

Why here?

Grasse is widely known as the world capital of perfumery, but its story begins with leather. In the 16th century, local tanners began scenting their goods to mask the strong smell of treated hides. This sparked a transformation: the hills around Grasse were soon planted with jasmine and roses, feeding the stills of the region’s earliest perfumers.

Today, Grasse remains a working centre of fragrance. Chanel still cultivates the rare Rose de Mai here for its iconic No. 5. Dior’s François Demachy established Les Fontaines Parfumées, a laboratory dedicated to scent innovation. And heritage houses like Galimard, Fragonard, and Molinard continue to produce perfumes using traditional methods.

Inspiration for my itinerary began with a hands-on perfume-making session in Grasse, guided by an expert. But rather than stay in the city, we’re basing ourselves in Cannes — a short drive away — to enjoy the chic energy of this cinematic town while dipping into the craft and culture of the region. Fate intervened with work commitments in Paris, so we tacked on a short trip to the capital and took the opportunity to try the double-decker TGV train between Paris and Cannes.


WHEN

September

We found it to be warm, pleasant, sunny.


LIGHT

Moderate daylight.

Sunrise: 06:56am - 07:27am

Sunset: 08:04pm - 07:09pm

12-13 hours of daylight


TRAVEL MEANS

Flight, Train, Car hire

Fly Leeds into Paris

Train Paris to Cannes

Car hire in Cannes

Fly Nice to Leeds


ACCOMMODATION

Paris: 25Heures Hotel Terminus Nord

Cannes: This AirBnB in the Californie neighbourhood


SCHEDULE

Day 1 - Paris

Fly in the afternoon, arrive and settle in

Dinner & Drinks: Brasserie Bellanger - a wonderful French Bistro

Day 2 - Paris

Exhibition: Azzedine Alaïa, Of Sculpted Silence

Dinner & Drinks: L’Aller Retour, Marais - traditional French bistro for steak frites

Day 3 - Travel to Cannes

Train journey: Depart Paris in the morning on a fast non-stop train to Cannes (roughly 5 hours)

Dinner: at home

Day 4 - Cannes

Lunch: took a long (slightly boozy!) lunch at Le Roof

Island afternoon: Took the water taxi to the Lérins island, Sainte-Marguerite. We walked the 7.4km coastal route, done in about 2h.

Alternative ideas: Get up early, pack a picnic and snorkelling gear, and head to Sainte Marguerite in the morning to also visit the Musée du Masque de Fer et du Fort Royal and snorkel the Underwater Ecomuseum by British sculptor, Jason deCaires Taylor. Have a picnic lunch in a well-chosen spot.

Dinner: at home

Day 5 - Cannes

City tour with a screenwriter: Booked this cinema-focused tour for a guided insight into how Cannes became such a juggernaut in the film industry.

Alternative ideas: Visit Le marché Forville (The Forville Market) to collect breakfast supplies and try a socca for sustenance.

Relax: spent the rest of the afternoon chilling out

Aperitif: Apéritif hours—l’heure de l’apéro—are usually 6pm to 8pm and a cherished part of the French day, not to mention an ideal pre-dinner ritual. The Dandy Club is my pick.

Dinner: at Aux Bons Enfants, relaxed bistro in its fourth generation of ownership - delightful. Advance booking essential (like many restaurants, note closed on a Sunday and Monday) and cash only.

Day 6 - Cannes & Grasse

Market-day Breakfast: Drove to Saint-Paul-de-Vence (50 mins driving, 28km) for a wander around

Day in Grasse for perfumery-making workshop: Drove to Grasse (40 mins driving, 22km) for a private Haute-Couture perfume creation workshop at Studio des Fragrances Galimard (2 hours, advance booking essential). FAN-FLIPPING-TASTIC. Worth every penny.

Alternative ideas: On the way back to Cannes, stop at Jardin du Musée International de la Parfumerie for a tour of the perfume gardens organised by olfactory note and current exhibition ‘Vibrations du vivant’ by glass artist, Antoine Pierini.

Dinner: Dressed up for a sunset dinner at LA PETITE MAISON, part of the legedary Palm Beach complex on La Croisette, hotspot for the glamour crowd since its construction in 1928, and with a panoramic view from Cap d'Antibes back to the Lérins Islands. Very, very glamourous.

Day 7 - Cannes, Travel home

Travel home: Fly from Nice back to Leeds

 

Ideas for another visit

  • IN OR NEAR CANNES

    • As an alternative to Sainte-Marguerite, visit Saint-Honorat, which has been inhabited by Cistercian Monks since the 5th century (410 CE). Walks, swimming and panoramic views are all on the agenda. Have a picnic lunch in a well-chosen spot. The monks have also produce liqueurs (La Lérina) olive oil and lavender. All for sale in the Lérins Abbey shop.

    • Book a Wine-And-Vine day with the monks on St Honarat, to learn about their wine production on the island (first Friday of each month only)

    • Rent a solar boat (no license necessary) for a morning or afternoon to visit the Bay of Cannes

    • Head out to The Estérel Massif (west of Cannes) for walking, mountain biking or trekking

    • Relax, swim, enjoy a picnic or do some kayaking at Lac de Saint-Cassien

    IN PARIS

    • For a Friday in Paris, book a Guided Tour with Textile Tours of Paris. Led by a couture embroiderer around the haberdasheries of Paris, telling the fascinating story of how Paris became the capital of luxury textiles and fashion.

    IN OR NEAR GRASSE

    • Two-part guided tour themed around one perfume flower, led by a gardener and a perfumer, at the Jardins du Musee International du Parfum (once per month between April and October, Saturdays at 10am)

    • Visit Grasse in May, for the annual ExpoRose Festival to celebrate the rich history of perfume and local floral agriculture. Roses garland the streets of Grasse creating a stage and inspiration for dance, theatre, music, exhibitions, workshops, demonstrations, screenings, concerts and artistic performances at every street corner.

    • Course at Grasse Institute of Perfumery, to take the perfume-learning even further

    • Once-per-week guided visits at Domain de Manon, flower-growers and cultivators whose produce is exclusively destined for use in Christian Dior perfumes. Offered during the appropriate harvest season for each flower (rose in May, jasmine and tuberose in August, September and October)

    • Fragonard factory, for insight into the process of making both the raw materials and the perfumes

    • Aperitifs at Le Roof, rooftop bar at 5 star hotel, Five Seas

    • Cabaret Dinner: at Medusa Cannes - built in the 1930’s, this cabaret restaurant was revived in 2018, offering dining and performance in one experience

 

Other French Inspirations

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Travel, Summer, Europe, Denmark Frances Lawrence Travel, Summer, Europe, Denmark Frances Lawrence

A Danish summer weekend with dance, architecture and Michelin stars

3 nights in high summer. My itinerary for a cultural and culinary weekend spent in Copenhagen with a friend.

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 3 night independent itinerary for Copenhagen, based on flying from Manchester, in August.

  • Highlights include an architecture bike tour, outdoor dance performance by the Danish Dance Theatre, food trucks, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and leisurely bike-riding in the city suburbs.

  • Based on a two friends travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere.

 

Why Copenhagen in Summer?

Yep - Copenhagen is cool.

Summer suits Copenhagen. The city spills outdoors, into harbourside performances, street food markets, and long, light evenings that stretch well past dinner. It’s a season for swimming off the docks, cycling without a plan, and discovering how design features in everyday life here.

This itinerary starts with the familiar - a weekend in a European capital - but quickly veers off-script, avoiding the usual crowds and spots, and following a different line through this friendly, watery capital.


Honest verdict

Does the place live up to hype or expectations?

We felt Copenhagen exceeded expectations, with one exception - The Little Mermaid. Sure; she’s cute, and she’s emblematic of the city, but the sheer number of people crowded around her, all trying to get their instagram shot, was deeply offputting. I mean; you could hardly appreciate the sculpture for what it is.

Other than that, the food, the activities we did, the hotel we stayed in, the dane performance at the water’s edge, the morning yoga…………….literally all of it was perfect. Nothing I would change.

Did the itinerary work for the trip?

Perfectly.

One smart move was keeping the hire bikes after our guided tour. It gave us freedom to explore beyond the usual tourist zones. We saw parts of Copenhagen I bet tourists never see, because we could cover more ground. Copenhagen is also famously bike friendly everywhere, and its very very flat, so the riding is spectacularly easy. Suggest you get clued up on the hand signals given by riders, to indicate to each other when they plan to stop.

The outdoor dance performance was a highlight. It’s one of my favourite ways to experience culture while travelling; there is never a language barrier. This one, set against the water, was especially memorable.

Would I recommend it? Would I make another visit?

It is actually my second visit to Copenhagen, the previous one being in Winter, and the two seasons showed Copenhagen in two different lights. I feel we saw plenty on this trip that I didn’t feel we ‘left anything behind’.

If I returned to Denmark, I’d probably explore a different region, like the coastal sands or Odense. But yes, I’d absolutely recommend Copenhagen in summer.


WHEN

August

We got mild to warm, and dry. May be changeable. Long sleeves and jeans were useful. Not hot.


LIGHT

Long daylight hours.

Sunrise: 05:15am - 06:15am

Sunset: 09:15pm - 08:01pm

14-16 hours of daylight


TRAVEL MEANS

Flight, Bike hire


ACCOMMODATION

Scandic Webers, Vesterbro

Cool

Great breakfast

Chain


SCHEDULE

Day 1

Fly in the afternoon, arrive and settle in

Dinner & Drinks: Reffen Food Market. Took a ferry to this shipping-containers-as-street-food-market on the outskirts of town. Not only was the food good, but there was also culture, live music, and a wonderfully mixed crowd in a casual vibe.

Day 2

Yoga: started the day with a class at Copenhagen Yoga. In the summer they head outdoors to the Botanical Gardens.

Bike tour: Took a bike tour of city architecture with Be Copenhagen for an alternative view of city life and a chance to get further out than you would on just two feet.

Ride: Kept the bikes and headed out to the ‘burbs, particularly the areas of Nørrebro and Frederiksberg.

Dinner: at Amass (now closed), Michelin-starred restaurant with a strong policy around waste and sustainability. Delicioud multi-course but not twiddly-diddly food. Each chef served their course to us. The fermented potato bread was perhaps the greatest bread I have every tasted in my life, made from leftover mashed potato.

Day 3

Chill: Spent the morning relaxing

Lunch: Torvehallerne (Glass House) food hall.

Ride: Rode out to see The Little Mermaid, then Amager Strand city beach, passing through many of Copenhagen loveliest suburbs for a view of city living away from the tourist spots.

Dinner: Fiskebar (Fish Bar) casual restaurant on the site of an old meat market. Buzzy atmosphere and tasty food.

Dance performance: Watched Danish Dance Theatre in their summer performance schedule when they come outside to perform waterside. Beautiful backdrop, delightful dance. No Danish needed.

Day 4

Breakfast: in the hotel

Tivoli Gardens: Enjoyed a few hours in the city centre amusement park, well, amusing ourselves…

Travel home

 

Other Scandinavian Inspirations

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Thought Frances Lawrence Thought Frances Lawrence

Fredome mays man to haiff liking

A fight for independence.

“Fredome mays man to haiff liking.”

- John Barbour

Written by Scottish poet John Barbour, in the 14th century, it’s part of his epic poem The Brus, which tells the story of Robert the Bruce and Scotland's fight for independence.

In modern English, it means: "Freedom allows a person to have happiness (or contentment)."

  • Fredome = Freedom

  • Mays = Makes / Allows

  • Man = A person

  • To haiff liking = To have pleasure, satisfaction, or happiness

Barbour was celebrating the idea that liberty is essential to human joy and fulfillment.

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Wardrobe, Spring Frances Lawrence Wardrobe, Spring Frances Lawrence

Workings of a Garment: a 1950’s rose-print cotton gown

Study and analysis of how this summer gown was constructed.


Brand & Era

Selfridges (emulating Nina Ricci)

1950’s

Fabric type & weight

cotton, printed or possibly chintz

estimate 160-180gsm

NOTES FOR A DRESSMAKER

Fit - This is a close-fitting garment. Almost all fit is achieved through the princess seams, with only two darts at the side waist. Rather cleverly, given that this is a ready-made garment, the pleated section over the bust would disguise any less-than-perfect fit issues around the bust, making it wearable by different cup sizes without detracting from the finished look.

Panels - 8 total panels

Zip - metal teeth, cotton tape, lapped construction. Hook and thread-eye added across centre of zip to hold the lap down covering the zip, and at the top of the zip for ease of closure.

Seam allowance - very wide, around 1 inch/2.5cm. Much more common for this period, and allows for tailoring and adjustments by the owner for a better fit and longevity as the body changes shape. Also, since this is cotton, any let out seams should not have obvious pinholes if changed.

Interior seam finish - for the bodice, the seam allowance is turned-and-stitched. From the waist down, it is simply pinked. Note also the one clip at the waist to release the concave seam allowance. Considering this garment is around 70 years old, this simple and easy finish is clearly durable enough for this type of garment, in this type of fabric. No evidence of fraying (and I myself have worn this garment at least 8 times in the past few years).

Hem - evidence of original hem being very narrow 3mm double-fold hem, but a previous owner has hemmed again to shorten, fairly neatly but not as neat as the original.

Hand-finishing - thread loops would have been done by hand, and the pleated detail across the bust is also hand-tacked down in key places.

Notable absenses - no lining, no interfacing on any section, and no waist-stay (which I actually think would be very useful and protect the seams from any stress on such a fitted item.


Other Cotton Garments

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Wardrobe, Thought Frances Lawrence Wardrobe, Thought Frances Lawrence

Outfit-making for new neural pathways

You know how they say that neurologically, we have these neural pathways which determine our behaviour? Once we have a neural pathway that's fixed in our brain, it's essentially an easy road to travel.

So when we faced with a situation we just keep on going back down that neural pathway. Thoughts, perspective, behaviours–all on repeat.

Well–I think the same can be said if you don't take the trouble to make outfits. When you're just faced with your wardrobe in the morning, you fall back on the same old tried and tested neural pathways, over and over again. You have to purposely create an outfit, make it come into being; in essence, form a new neural pathway. Outfit-making lets you break up some of those patterns and create new neural pathways. To not get stuck in style habits, one of the key tools in the box is outfit-making.

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Eat, Summer, USA Frances Lawrence Eat, Summer, USA Frances Lawrence

Blueberry Crumble

A very simple two-portion recipe for blueberry crumble with a touch of walnut. Memories of Maine, New England.

This recipe comes from the Good Housekeeping Complete Book of Desserts, published in 1990. I absolutely love an old recipe book; there are such gems in there. Things that perhaps have fallen out of favour. Take this one - a simple blueberry crumble recipe.

You can swap the berry quantity for anything you happen to have, single fruit or a mixture. Its an excellent option for USU - Using Stuff Up. Wrinkly fruit, scrap ends, bumper seasonal crop, fruit on yellow sticker - the only thing you may want to do is also swap the spice for another more complimentary to your fruit choice.

What I would urge, is trying a single fruit crumble. What I learnt discovering this recipe was that using the delicate-tasting blueberries on their own really means you can taste them without them being overpowered by a more robust flavor such as apple, raspberry or rhubarb.

A note on my stance for storing crumble. Some people happily store a leftover baked crumble in the fridge, and enjoy it chilled over the next few days, stealing a spoonful each time they open the fridge……..I am not one of these people. I prefer my crumble fresh and warm, and purposefully designed this recipe as a small portion for two as an option to do just that.


PORTION SIZE

My estimates are based on a portion of about 120g per person. 

This recipe will make 2 portions.

TOOLS

Other than the typical kitchen equipment, you will need:

  • a small ovenproof dish, about 110cm diameter, 4-5cm deep

INGREDIENTS

Filling

100g blueberries

1 tbsp soft brown or Light Muscovado sugar

1/2 tbsp plain flour

juice of 1/2 lime

Crumble

35g salted butter

35g flour (wholemeal, spelt, rye, or plain, or any mix)

35g soft brown or Light Muscovado sugar

20g porridge oast

20g walnuts (pecans work fine if this is what you have)

freshly grated nutmeg

To serve

It doesn’t need anything but yoghurt, creme fraiche or custard all go equally well with it

 

METHOD

Prep oven - Preheat the oven to 170°C fan, 190°C regular.

Mix berries - Weigh the berries, sugar, flour and lime juice directly into a small overproof dish; mix thoroughly.

Mix crumble & assemble - Weigh the crumble ingredients into a blender or food processer. Pulse to blitz into a sandy crumb. Spread the crumble on the top of the berries and lightly press down.

NOTE! If you are getting ahead, you can store the assembled crumble in the fridge at this point, for about 24 hours give or take, and bake when you are ready. A handy option to prep in the morning, and then you only need to bake in the evening for dessert.

Bake - Bake in the middle of the oven for about 15 minutes. The top should be gently bronzed once ready.

Cool & Finish with extras - Remove from the oven and allow to cool for at least 5 minutes, otherwise it will be too hot to eat and enjoy. Serve! Adding cooling dairy is an optional extra.

 

STORAGE

I don’t personally find baked crumble keeps, but equally, it isn’t really a very fussy dish and leftovers can easily be reheated (covered with foil, to prevent further browning of the crumble), or stored in the fridge to eat chilled.

To freeze before baking, wrap in foil and store the whole thing, dish and all, in the freezer.

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Travel, Summer, Europe, Norway Frances Lawrence Travel, Summer, Europe, Norway Frances Lawrence

Fredrikstad - a long weekend for early Summer

From Manchester to Norway, to visit one of the best preserved fortified towns in Europe.

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 4 night road trip independent itinerary for exploring Fredrikstad

  • Based on flying from Manchester into Oslo and hiring a car

  • Highlights include cycling to a Bronze Age stone circle, a picnic on the city ramparts, summer outdoor swimming and waterside dining

  • Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere

 

Why here?

Fredrikstad is one of Northern Europe’s best-preserved fortified towns — a compact, walkable centre with real historical character. The surrounding region, including Hvaler, offers excellent cycling: coastal stretches, forested trails, and quiet roads that promise varied and rewarding rides.

It’s also logistically easy. Just south of Oslo, Fredrikstad sits along the eastern edge of the Oslofjord, stretching from Moss to the Swedish border. With direct flights from Manchester to Oslo taking around two hours, it’s an ideal short-break destination — accessible, but far enough to feel like a proper escape.



WHEN

June

Just outside of school holiday season.

Likely warm to hot, and also changeable.


LIGHT

Long days.

Sunrise: 04:13am to 04:06am

Sunset: 22:17pm to 22:34pm

18 hours of daylight


TRAVEL MEANS

Fly from Manchester to Oslo

Car and bike hire will also be essential to move between locations


ACCOMMODATION

Gamlebyen Hotell

in the very centre of Fredrikstad - in the self-catering Holberg Suite


SCHEDULE

Day 1

Arrive: fly, collect hire car, collect bikes, collect groceries, arrive at holiday rental and settle in

Day 2

Morning swim: Outdoor swimming available during summer months only at Fredrikstad Kongstenbadet

Brunch: Mormors Café or Bakfickan bakery-café

Get to know the city: Bike along the ramparts, and follow the old streets to the square. Do as the locals do and stop somewhere along the ramparts for a picnic

Day 3

Day trip: Head slightly out of the city to visit Steinringfeltet (stone rings) just outside of Fredrikstad, an ancient and site of stone circles that date back to the Bronze age. Take a ride through the woods to reach Ravneberget Bygdeborg, a hillfort with magnificent views of Fredrikstad, Torsnes and the sea.

Nearby is the Storedal Cultural Center, an outdoor sculpture park with sensory garden

Cocktails: Visit rooftop cocktail bar Savoy Terrasse, for amazing views and delicious drinks.

Day 4

Relax: make breakfast, spend the morning chilling out

Ride: choose a route out in the countryside

Dinner: for casual fine dining with a fish focus and view of the river, book at Slippen; at Restaurant KØL for grill and meats with outdoor dining in the main town, or Nomads social dining restaurant for small, Asian-inspired dishes

Day 5

Fly home; try to leave in the morning

 

Other options for Fredriskstad

  • Markets are on a Saturday morning in the Old Town Square. Collect goodies for a picnic lunch and head to have a picnic at the Vollane ramparts of the Old Town.

  • Østfold art centre has art exhibitions and a small café offering delicious food and wonderful views of the Glomma river.

  • Blå Grotte, St. Croix and Gamlebyen Kulturhus are all culture houses that host concerts, theatre, dance, and puppet shows.

  • Café Magenta. The garden at the old town culture house is also a wonderful place to spend a summer evening.

 

Other 4-5 night Itineraries

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Travel, Summer, USA Frances Lawrence Travel, Summer, USA Frances Lawrence

Harbours to Highlands. A New England road trip itinerary for Summer

A summer touring holiday through New England - Maine, Vermont a Boston.

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 16 night independent touring itinerary for Massachussetts, Maine and Vermont, taking a circular route, starting and finishing in Boston

  • Based on flying into Boston, and hiring a car for the entirety of the trip

  • Highlights include cycling the pine forests of Maine, a boat trip out of Boothbay Harbour, burnt ends at Bluebird BBQ, Saturday Farmers Market in Burlington, SUP yoga on Lake Champlain, MTB riding all over the Green Mountain State, Boston Walking Tour and seeing the Red Sox vs The Yankees play at traditional Fenway Park

  • Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere


Honest verdict

Does the place live up to hype or expectations?

Maine is a long-time holiday destination for domestic tourists though most British people visit New England for the autumn colours, or ‘leaf peeper’ tourists as they are affectionately known locally. We bucked this trend and headed there in high summer, hence, we went without too much expectation.

What we found was green, grand and glorious. Maine smells of pine trees, Lake Champlain is breathtakingly beautiful, and Boston is just hip enough without taking itself too too seriously. Maine in particular is a sailor’s paradise (I’m imagining here - I’m no sailor), with endless islands, coves and inlets to explore but we also found it a delight to explore land on two wheels. Vermont is a superb spot for two-wheeled activities of all stripes. All in all, a recommended spot for a summer visit.

Did the itinerary work for the trip?

Almost perfectly.

  • 7 nights in Maine was a little too long for us; the location is better suited to folks who like to spend their time on the water - sailing, fishing, kayaking - none of which we do. 4 nights in Maine probably would have worked better for us.

  • 7 nights in Burlington for us was also perfect - plenty of time to really get to know this active city and a lot of MTB options.

  • 3 nights in Boston is ideal.

Drive time between destinations was perfect. Travelling in the car this way, we got to see parts of New Hampshire that we may never visit if it meant making a dedicated holiday there.

Would I make another visit?

Certainly to Vermont, and could even see us returning to spend more time in Burlington itself. The entire Lake Champlain region makes a fantastic destination for biking, whether road or MTB.

I feel I have now seen enough of both Maine and Boston to not return, though I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend either.


WHEN

August

Very warm and sunny was what we experienced for the majority of the trip, with the odd cloudy or rainy few hours.

Typically warm to hot, with rain.


LIGHT

Long days

Sunrise: 05:40am to 06:43am

Sunset: 20:18pm to 19:31pm

13-14 hours of daylight


TRAVEL MEANS

Fly from Manchester to Boston, drive between locations, fly back out from Boston

We obviously took our car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as hiring bikes in both Maine and Vermont


ROUTE & STOPS

Drive 1,028 km, 11 hours 45 mins, over 16 days

  • Drive Yorkshire to Manchester; Fly into Boston

  • Drive from Boston to Boothbay Harbour (2h 40m drive) for a 7 night stay

  • Drive from Boothbay Harbour to Burlington (5h drive) for a 7 night stay; drive through New Hampshire’s White Mountains along the way

  • Drive from Burlington to Boston (3h 45m drive) for a 3 night stay

  • Fly Boston to Manchester; drive back to Yorkshire


ACCOMMODATION

Boothbay Harbour

Apartment called ‘Boothbay Harbour Cottage Apartment’ (no longer operating)

Lovely. About a 10 minute stroll from centre of Boothbay Harbour village, and a bakery-cafe just round the corner. Small outdoor space too for reading and relaxing on the warm summer evenings, a place where we regularly did and saw hummingbirds to boot.

Burlington

This carriage house studio apartment

Idyllic. Large studio apartment, kitchenette, private terrace overlooking the mature and immaculate garden, ample space for two (despite only being a studio), parking, located in quick and easy access to both central Burlington and Lake Champlain (each about 15 minutes’ walk). Recommended.

Boston

Apartment called ‘Boston Christopher’ (no longer operating)

Not recommended. Devoid of atmosphere, strange, looking at a brick wall.


SCHEDULE

Day 1 - Fly to Boston; Drive Boston to Boothbay Harbour

About 9-10 hours flying; About 420km, 2hrs 40m driving


Boothbay Harbour - Day 1 to 7

Had several breakfast waffles at Mama D’s - with a porch terrace, rocking chair and clapboard exterior, this felt like quintessential New England to me. Good coffee and friendly service, located just outside Boothbay Harbour town, so full of locals for an authentic experience.

Cycled around Southport Island

Visited Maine Lobster Festival in Rockland. Got ‘lobster takeaway’ and watched the locals partake in mad games on the water a la Takeshi’s Castle

Went out on a sailboat with a local guide

Had plenty of blueberry soda - a taste of Maine for us


Day 8 - Drive between Boothbay Harbour and Burlington

Stopped in Jackson, New Hampshire for lunch and a leg stretch. Sought out the covered bridges of New Hampshire along the way.

About 420km, 5hrs driving


Day 8 to 14 - Burlington, Vermont

Had several bakery breakfasts at August First cafe

Cycled into the Island Line Trail into Lake Champlain - 45km loop follows Burlington’s waterfront via the Burlington Greenway and heads out on the beautiful Colchester Causeway three miles into the middle of the lake.

Rode the MTB trails at Cady Hill near Stowe - well worth a visit.

Rode the MTB trails at Saxon Hill, just outside of Burlington - flowy singletrack with boardwalks - recommended

Burlington Farmer’s Market comes to town on Saturday morning and offers a fantastic mix of ready-to-eat treats and tasty ingredients to take home and cook with. We had THE most delicious sour cherry bagel with a cream cheese dip, noshed in the square with the sounds of a guitarist strumming for the pleasure of the market crowd. Delightful.

Dined at Bluebird BBQ, in Burlington, for classic american barbecue, burnt ends and Vermont beer. Recommended.

Did some SUP yoga on Lake Champlain


Day 14 - Drive between Burlington and Boston

About 348km, 3hr 20mins driving


Day 14 to 16 - Boston

Booked tickets for Boston Red Sox vs. NY Yankees at Fenway Park - for me, one of the highlights of the trip, since we didn’t plan this! These two are ancient rivals - we couldn’t have been more lucky to have them be playing each other on the Saturday we were in Boston. A great experience, even for those uninitiated in the game of baseball. Great atmosphere and wonderful memory.

Visited the Patriots Hall of Fame

Took a Walking Tour with Boston by Foot - excellent. Informative and fun.

Had all-American sandwiches at Sam La Grassa in downtown Boston


Day 17 - Fly Boston to Manchester

About 9-10 hours


Sewing projects for a Summer itinerary

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Eat, England, Spring, Winter Frances Lawrence Eat, England, Spring, Winter Frances Lawrence

Rhubarb & Rose Compôte

Recipe for a fragrant rhubarb and rosewater compote. An utterly delightful flavour combo and a taste of The British Isles.

pink rhubarb chopping in a shallow baking tin with caster sugar

There are two rhubarb seasons - one is late winter, early spring, when the crops of pink, forced rhubarb are available, and one is the summer, when the abundant crops of green rhubarb are endlessly sprouting stalks in veg patches and borders up and down the land.

This recipe is designed for the former, the pink kind, particularly if you intend to serve the compote appetisingly atop a crepe, yoghurt or cake. While the green summer kind will taste exactly the same, it will not have the aesthetic appeal of the pink winter version, especially if you want to turn the puree into some other topping like on a cheesecake.

If you only want it for the flavour and don’t need any of the colour, this recipe will produce the same result either which way.

My recipe below is my own.


PORTION SIZE

Makes about 700ml – roughly the amount of 2 large mugs.

TOOLS

Other than the typical kitchen equipment, you will need:

  • a roasting tin with sides, about 4-5cm deep

INGREDIENTS

600g rhubarb (about 10 stalks) **forced, pink ones will make a pink compote; the green summer rhubarb will be a sludgy green colour

100g golden caster sugar

1 to 1 ½ tsp rose water

1-2 drops pink food colouring (optional)

Ratios

  • 100% fruit, 15% sugar

  • Approx. ½ tsp rose extract per 300g fruit

Variations

  • with orange or lime zest – omit the rose water and zest the citrus fruit onto the compôte just after it comes out the oven. Stir to combine.

  • with strawberries — swap half the rhubarb for strawberries

  • With vanilla – stir 2 tsp vanilla paste onto the compôte just after it comes out the oven. Stir to combine.

  • With rosé wine or liqueurs – add 2 tbsp rose wine, elderflower liqueur, Grand Marnier, Chambord etc. to the roasting tin with the raw rhubarb and sugar. Roast together.

  • With cardamom – grind the seeds of 4 cardamom pods and add to the roasting tin with the raw rhubarb and sugar. Roast together. Omit the rose water.

 

METHOD

Heat oven. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan

Prep rhubarb and any extras. Cut the rhubarb into large chunks and place in a roasting tin with the sugar. If any of your extras need to go in before roasting, add here.

Roast. Cover with foil and cook for 15‐20 minutes or until the rhubarb is tender and the sugar has dissolved into a lovely pink syrup. Expect it to be pretty wet.

Finish. Stir in the rosewater (or any other optional extras, and a drop or two of pink food colouring if you want to amp up the colour), then spoon into a bowl and set aside to cool completely.

 

USES

  • Dollop onto rice pudding, porridge or crepes

  • Blend into a smoothie

  • Use as a fruit puree for cheesecake topping

  • Serve alongside a cake (particularly a dense type of cake such as a Madeira cake or olive oil cake)

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Eat, Summer, England Frances Lawrence Eat, Summer, England Frances Lawrence

Low-and-Slow Pecan & Pumpkin Seed Granola

Very simple two-step recipe for homemade pecan and pumpkin seed granola. Memories of Suffolk.

I once spent a summer weekend, with a friend, on the Suffolk coast. We walked, we chatted, we basked in the the high summer sun, we ate great food.

Part of the joy was the breakfast at our guesthouse, Corner Farm. We were seated in the glass vestibule just off the kitchen, and laid out on the table with our brewing tea were individual little Kilner jars of granola, clearly homemade granola at that. It was utterly delicious.

Buttery, crispy, oaty and gently spiced. Nothing like the rubbish you can get from the supermarket. I tentatively enquired as to whether the owner of the guesthouse might share her secrets with me. Lucky for me, she did, and making it is now a regular feature in my own kitchen.

Three things to know. First, this is not a ‘clumpy’ granola, but rather a ‘flaky’ one, where all the ingredients remain as separate little crispy morsels. Second, the darker the honey, the darker the bake will be. Third, don’t be tempted to speed up the baking - the low-and-slow approach is what gets you these golden, toasty, oaty nutty flakes where the rich and delicate flavour of the butter has been coaxed out over the long bake time, and none of the nuts or seeds have burnt.


PORTION SIZE

My estimates are based on an 80g portion of granola per person. 

This recipe will make about 1kg, which is about 12 portions.

TOOLS

Other than the typical kitchen equipment, you will need:

  • a baking sheet or a shallow roasting tin, 3-4cm deep

  • a large Kilner jar or tupperware for storage

INGREDIENTS

130g unsalted butter

130g honey (or mix of light muscovado & vanilla caster)

350g oats, rye or spelt flakes – half jumbo, half porridge

180g pecans (or swap in walnuts or almonds)

70g pumpkin seeds

1 tsp fine salt

1 tsp vanilla paste or extract

½ tsp ground cinnamon

½ tsp mixed spice or allspice

Extras after baking (optional)

80g chocolate chips or coconut shavings

50g chopped dried fruit

Ratios

  • 1:1 fat : sweetener

  • 100% dry ingredients : 43% liquid ingredients

 

METHOD

Melt liquids - Weigh the butter and honey directly into a saucepan; melt over a medium heat. Do not allow to bubble.

Prep oven & baking sheet - Preheat the oven to 110°C fan, 130°C regular and line a large roasting tin (one with sides) with reusable baking paper

Mix everything together - Weigh the dry ingredients into a large bowl. Pour the melted ingredients over the dry and mix well.

Bake - Spread the mixture on the baking tray and bake in the middle of the oven for 90 minutes, stirring every 30 minutes, until nicely golden. Keep an eye on it and do not let it burn – you may want to turn to encourage even browning.

Cool & Finish with extras - Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely. It will dry and crisp up significantly. Once cooled completely, add your extras if you are using them. Decant into storage jar.

 

STORAGE

Store in an airtight jar; it keeps easily for a few months

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Thought Frances Lawrence Thought Frances Lawrence

Closet Core Patterns : “Just. Make. It.”

Just Make It. Cut into that expensive fabric and be done with it. Get on with making and wearing the thing.

I read this article by Closet Core Patterns, and it was what I needed to crack on and make the pieces in the expensive Liberty fabric that I had been procrastinating on, for fear of f***ing it up.

Reading it made me realise: so what if I get it all wrong and waste the fabric?! I’m here to make, I’m here to learn. Get out the scissors and give it my best try.

My favourite sections of that article are below.

Start sewing. Pick that “scary” project you’re longing to make and just. Make. It. Pull out that fabric you’ve been fondling but are too nervous to use and just cut into it......

Worried about ruining that “special” fabric? Is it woven from unicorn eyelashes? No? Life is short. It’s just fabric........

”But what if it doesn’t fit perfectly?” Again, no one really cares but you. You are asking way more of your me-made garments than you would of ready-to-wear, and if that pressure is preventing you from getting started or simply stopping you in your tracks, you need to learn how to shake it off. A drag line is not the end of the world. Learn what you can for the next time. ......

Reference

Lou, H. (2016, January 2). Just Make it Already! How to Boost Your Sewing Confidence. Closet Core Patterns. Retrieved April 10, 2025, from https://blog.closetcorepatterns.com/just-make-it-already-how-to-boost-your-sewing-confidance/

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Thought Frances Lawrence Thought Frances Lawrence

Cherry Jeffs : “Repeating a process can teach us important lessons about subtle variation and refinement.”

This excellent article about what an artist’s body of work is also perfectly encapsulated why I refine - for longevity, strength and coherence of my inner voice.

Just found something absolutely brilliant, on the site of Cherry Jeffs, about what a body of work is. In this Cherry also talks about what repetition teaches us about refinement. Brilliant.

In the early stages of discovering who we are as artists, it’s natural to want to try out lots of different techniques, media and subject matter. But for many of us, this kind of exploration can go on far too long! The result? Extreme frustration that we haven’t ‘found our voice’.

Constantly exploring different ways of working is exciting. But it’s also exhausting - and that makes it difficult to maintain over the long term.

This is one of the reasons why it can feel like an uphill struggle to make art regularly. When we don’t have a clear direction, it’s easy to get charged up to begin. But after a while, our enthusiasm peters out and we dry up. Eventually we restart in a different direction.

Repeating a process can teach us important lessons about subtle variation and refinement. But when we charge all over the map like this, we don’t get to learn these lessons.

It was only when I focussed on building a body of work, that I finally started to make art that spoke with a strong, personal and unique creative voice.

So, above any other considerations, the single, most important reason for building a body of work lies at the heart of your creative work: It helps you refine your voice, and the direction of your practice, so you can keep going over the long haul.
— Cherry Jeffs, fine artist

Reference

Jeffs, C. (n.d.). What is a body of work? Cherry Jeffs. Retrieved March 18, 2025, from https://www.cherryjeffs.com/whatisabodyofwork

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Travel, Spring, Europe, France Frances Lawrence Travel, Spring, Europe, France Frances Lawrence

Quimper - an off-season active itinerary for Spring

A 7-night springtime itinerary with medieval Quimper as the base. Cider, cycling, springtime walks, crepes and art.

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 7 night independent itinerary for the very northwest tip of France, using Quimper as the base

  • Based on travelling at the very end of winter/start of spring, driving there using the channel tunnel.

  • Highlights include discovering the Pont-Aven school of art, eating crepes in their cultural homeland, coastal biking

  • Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere

 

Why here?

This is an alternative option for exploring Brittany in its off-season, using Quimper as the main base, for easy access to city, country, coast and culture, with all activities within a 1 hour drive or less.

Every image you will ever see for Brittany tourism - every website, every accommodation listing - will show Brittany in the summer time, bathed in gorgeous sunshine. It’s true that early spring is unpredictable in the northwest corner of Europe; we can get everything from blue skies and frigid air, to bouncing rain, to snow, freezing cold and biting winds, to very warm and sunny days hovering around 20°C. You just don’t know what you’re gonna get.

This makes it a brilliant month for a road trip, and a great month for venturing outside (dressed accordingly!) If the weather is just too much, there’s plenty indoor cultural action to amuse too.

Quimper is considered by many to be the ‘cultural heart’ of Brittany, and stretching from the coast to inland, there is the Parc naturel régional d'Armorique, a huge natural park with rugged granite peaks, moors & dense forests. Due to unpredictable weather, indoorsing will be a key fallback, so staying close to a city means cultural and foodie activities are in easy reach for when the weather just isn’t playing ball.


WHEN

April

Like the UK, April can be either cold and snowing, or warm and sunny, Take clothing options and plan activities that account for these unknowable circumstances.


TRAVEL MEANS

Drive from Leeds, using the Channel Tunnel crossing + Road Bike

Drive time is 12.5hrs. Alternative, similar travel time is to cross using the ferry from Plymouth to Roscoff


ACCOMMODATION

Near Quimper

Quimper’s countryside, being more inland, has much more of a ‘cosy’ comforting feel to it than the brazen and rocky boldness of the coast around Brest.

3 bed home on the banks of the River Odet

Auberge des Glazicks - Michelin-starred restaurant-with-rooms about 30 mins drive from Quimper

3 bed home in central Quimper

Hôtel Ginkgo - Just outside the city centre, boutique hotel with some rooms giving views over the River Odet


SCHEDULE

Day 1

Drive to Quimper - this is a 12.5 hour journey. Pack the car with supplies and plan the route with opportunities for break points

Check-in

Collect groceries


Day 2

Brunch or Lunch - with local cider at Le Sistrot

Bike ride - out to Parc botanique de Cornouaille (about 2hr bike ride round-trip)


Day 3

Crepe workshop - for the morning activity, book onto a crepe-making workshop in Benodet (25 min drive from Quimper)

Embroidery art - in the afternoon, visit the School of Embroidery Art by Pascal Jaouen in Quimper where they have regular exhibitions of artistic embroidery


Day 4

Relax - take the morning to chill

Walk - in the early-afternoon, take a walk in the Bois du Nevet (25 min drive from Quimper)

Evening Drinks - try local brew at La Baleine Déshydraté in Quimper


Day 5

All day bike ride - Start in the morning, bike out to Pont-Aven (4 hour bike ride round trip) and stop in at Le Musée de Pont-Aven to see their considerable collection of works from this area, most dating from mid-to-late 19th Century


Day 6

Walk - Take a morning walk in the Huelgoat Forest (50 min drive from Quimper)

Relax - Take the afternoon to chill out, read, draw, chat


Day 7

Spa day - Book a spa day of thalasso therapy at Valdys Spa in Dourarnez (30 min drive from Quimper)


Day 8

Drive home


 

Other April Itineraries

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Wardrobe, Summer, Dressmaking Frances Lawrence Wardrobe, Summer, Dressmaking Frances Lawrence

Square neck tiered midi dress in Liberty Heidi cotton poplin

Perfected the fit, and finally making with an expensive fabric, Liberty’s cotton poplin. Detailed dressmaking closeups.

TOTAL TIME COMMITMENT: 17 hours

Toile (without zip, lining, interior seam finishing, basting stitch removal or hemming): none

Cut out & transfer all pattern markings: 3 hours

Main construction: 10 hours

Lining construction, attachment and hemming: none

Finishings (hem, enclose zip): 2.5 hours


Fabric type

Cotton poplin (Liberty)

Fabric weight

110gsm

ADDITIONAL SEAM FINISHING, CONSTRUCTION NOTES & EXTRAS

Cut out four of the sleeve frills, so that you see the print on both sides

Overlock each edge of skirt pattern piece before construction, press open

Overlock raw edges together at gathered tier seam

Overlock raw edges separately before construction on zip seam

Attach bodice facing to rest of garment using stitch-in-the-ditch

VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNT

A truly beautiful dress, perfectly fit at the bodice, bust and shoulder. I have worked so hard on this pattern, I now have two fit versions - one as a pinafore, fit to go over a top, and a closer fitting option (as here) to be worn alone.

The amendment to cut four of the sleeve frills really elevates the finish, where you see a printed face on the underside and upperside of the frill.

The only error is where I have managed to mis-align the top of the zip slightly, which I think is due to sewing the centred zip in one continuous line from neck edge, around bottom, to neck edge. In the future, I plan to sew each side from neck edge down to bottom of zip, sewing twice over the bottom for reinforcement.

Having made the garment multiple times has really paid off, and my technique is improving, which I can see here in this garment. Perhaps my proudest make ever, tied with the wool flannel shirt I made for my partner.

A beautiful addition to my summer wardrobe and one that I am extremely pleased and proud to wear.


Travel itineraries for Summerwear

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Wardrobe, Spring Frances Lawrence Wardrobe, Spring Frances Lawrence

Workings of a Garment: a Y2K Acne oversized long-line shirt

Learnings and inspiration for improving my dressmaking up to designer ready-to-wear standards.


Brand & Era

Acne

Y2K, 2013

Fabric type & weight

cotton poplin

estimate 140gsm

STYLE NOTES FOR A PETITE

This is not flattering on my petite frame - too much volume across the dropped shoulder, too much volume at the lower front, too much length overall in both bodice and sleeve.

It is the correct size for me (36) but it just goes to show why oversized is such a difficult silhouette to buy ready-made for a petite, particularly in designerwear, which seems to be sized for a 5’ 8” woman. Trying garments like this makes me more determined to get better and better at making my own oversized or loose-fitting garments.

Oversized is still a fit! Darts need to be in the right place, the volume needs to be proportionate, and it should all be balanced with subtle details that hint or show the figure underneath - such as cut-in shoulders, a tightly fitted cuff, a waist cut-out, or a bare arm or leg.


Other Oversized or Loose-fitting Garments

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Wardrobe, Spring, Dressmaking Frances Lawrence Wardrobe, Spring, Dressmaking Frances Lawrence

Pleated blouse in wool flannel from 1970’s Gunne Sax pattern

After some significant design amendments, made a cropped blouse in micro-houndstooth wool flannel. Lessons learnt.

TOTAL TIME COMMITMENT: 19 hours including toile

Toile (without buttons, lining, interior seam finishing, basting stitch removal or hemming) and pattern amends: 7 hours

Cut out & transfer all pattern markings: 1.5 hours

Main construction: 8.5 hours

Lining construction: none

Finishings (buttons, hem): 2 hours


Fabric type

Wool flannel

Fabric weight

estimate 170gsm

VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNT

Size 11 Junior is an excellent starting size for me – I had to make hardly any adjustments to the neck, chest & shoulder (the usual places I need to adjust). The only thing I needed to do was lower the bottom of the armhole, and shorten the bodice by 1 inch. This pattern already had plenty of room at the bust due to the pleats, and plenty of room at the bicep because of the full sleeve. Had this been more fitted in those areas, doubtless I could have also had to do a full bust and fuller bicep adjustment, but the fit across the back, shoulders and chest is particularly nice.

 

I also adjusted the placement of the stitching across the pleats, raising them up to be more flattering on my petite frame, and also so that they were not so close to the bust area which caused the fabric to pouch out over my full bust, making me look disproportionately large there.

 

BUTTON HOLES NEED TO BE VERTICAL ON BLOUSES EXCEPT AT THE COLLAR!! I did them horizontally on this, and they extend beyond the edge of the placket, which I will have to live with, but feel a bit daft since they really should be vertical. It did also occur to me that if a blouse pattern has a defined placket, this determines the max size of button I can use.

 

Also, I need to remember that my choice of interfacing for anywhere there is going to be buttonholes, is really important. I need to choose a facing that will blend in effortlessly when the buttonholes are cut. I used a white interfacing on this, but because it is a darker fashion fabric, you can see little tufts of white where I have cut for the buttonholes. Not a disaster, but would have been so much better to have used a black interfacing.

 

This is the heaviest fabric I could use for this design I think, and as a matter of fact, it could look much much better on me in a super lightweight fabric like cotton batiste or crepe-de-chine. Made up, wearing it feels a tiny bit like wearing a jacket, so nice and substantial, but I think I would prefer it in a lighter weight fabric. This fabric would be better suited to a trouser or skirt I think.

 

I learnt a lot about proportioning a loose fit blouse on my petite frame – when there is quite a bit of extra fabric across the front, I need to be very careful and really, these look best on me as cropped blouses, as I ended up doing with this pattern.

 

Very pleased to find a use for the decorative stitching, but I didn’t do this in a contrasting thread, so it can hardly be seen on the finished blouse.

VARIATION IDEAS FOR ANOTHER MAKE

Make it in a much more lightweight fabric, perhaps sheer as in the sewing pattern photo.

 

Make the collar, button placket and cuff with a decorative scalloped edge (pattern pieces drafted)

 

Or make the collar and cuff inserting a piping or lace trim in a contrast colour to define the edge – this will work beautifully well if the main blouse is made in a plain fabric


Travel itineraries for Autumnwear

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Travel, Summer, Europe, UK, Channel Islands Frances Lawrence Travel, Summer, Europe, UK, Channel Islands Frances Lawrence

Jersey - a long weekend in Spring

My travel itinerary for 3 nights in Jersey, Channel Islands. Walking, history and dining.

 

Itinerary At A Glance

  • 3 night independent itinerary for Jersey, part of the Channel Islands, off the south coast of England

  • Based on either flying in and out of Jersey from Leeds, or Liverpool

  • Highlights include gastropub dining on English-French fusion fare, pick-your-own pearl for jewellery, Jersey War Tunnels and craggy coastal walks.

  • Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and hiking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere

 

Why Jersey?

Elegant.

Teensy.

Historic.

It does rather pack a punch in terms of interesting things to do and see over a long weekend.

Much of it’s interest rests on the 5-year long German occupation, indeed the only part of the British territory under occupation during WWII, and theremnants and historical sites that stand testament to this cultural oddity are now visitor attractions.

As well as this though, there are plenty of beaches, coves and coastal paths for wandering, some excellent restaurants, and loads of trips and activities on the sea, which is always in easy reach no matter where you stay on the island.

Honest verdict

Does the place live up to hype or expectations?

What do people expect from Jersey?! Wealth and the remnants of war?? We got that. Some of the property is knock-your-socks-off-stunning, and there are leavings of occupation kind of everywhere.

I think what exceeded expectations though, was how picturesque it is. Tiny little valleys nestled in leafy woods that suddenly give out onto a view of the sea. Turquoise blue coves (the picture above is snapped on my phone with no filter). Ancient towers on the horizon. Harbourside restaurants.

The hotel was excellent, the walking was lovely, and the weather put on a very very good show, with blue skies, warm sun and a light breeze. Late May is a lovely time to visit.

Did the itinerary work for the trip?

3 days was just right. There isn’t endless amounts of stuff to do on the island, and it could become a bit same-y in my view. The one thing I wished we had seen was The Celtic Hoard at la Hougue Bie.

Would I recommend it? Would I make another visit?

Can definitely recommend it, though for us personally, one trip is likely enough. Maybe we’ll go back in another 10 years.

 

WHEN

Late May

The last week in May is a school holiday, so things book up quickly.

We got warm (not hot) the whole time. May be changeable.


LIGHT

Long days

Sunrise: 05:14am to 5:09am

Sunset: 20:58pm to 21:04pm

16 hours of daylight


TRAVEL MEANS

Fly direct from Leeds to Jersey with Jet2, or direct from Liverpool to Jersey with Easyjet

The flight schedule is more restrictive from Leeds Bradford, with flights only on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, whereas flights from Liverpool are daily.


ACCOMMODATION

Greenhills Country House Hotel

An excellent hotel - peacful, elegant and relaxed.

Being such a tiny island, and a popular one, accommodation choices are somewhat limited and what there is books up very very quickly. This needs to be booked very well ahead of time.


SCHEDULE

Day 1

Arrive; settle in.

Dinner: at the hotel


Day 2

Experience: Booked Pick-A-Pearl experience at Jersey Pearl - chose, and graded pearls for jewellery.

Play: Roccos Crazy Golf in St Ouen’s Bay. Open 9am – 5pm everyday (not bookable)

Walk: Took in one of the coastal path walks up near Plémont and the ruins of 14c Grosnez Castle

Dinner: Ate at Cheffins at Beaumont Inn


Day 3

Jersey War Tunnels: Book a ticket for an understanding of the island under German Occupation, the only part of the British Isles occupied during World War II

Walk: Took a walk on the east coast, taking in St Catherines, Archirondel and Mont Orgueil Castle

Ice Cream: stop at The Botanic Gardens at Samarès Manor

Dinner: Booked for relaxed dinner at The Old Court House Inn, in St Aubin’s - relaxed, yet polished pub dining, with an alfresco option. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.


Day 4

Breakfast

Morning in St Helier: See the Occupation Tapestry at the Maritime Museum in St Helier (12 panels, woven by islanders commemorating liberation from 5 years of Nazi rule)

Travel home


Ideas for another visit

 

Other Short Itineraries

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Poland, Eat, Autumn Frances Lawrence Poland, Eat, Autumn Frances Lawrence

Chocolate, Rose & Beetroot Loaf Cake

Fragrant and decadent, and an excellent keeper. Adapted from a Paul Hollywood recipe.

Adapted from Paul Hollywood’s recipe, my partners absolute favourite slice of treaty heaven. Also, an easy keeper too.


PORTION SIZE

Makes a cake to serve 6-8

TOOLS

Other than the typical kitchen equipment, to make these, you need:

  • a 450g (1lb) loaf tin

  • A blender or food processor

INGREDIENTS

For the cake

50ml flavourless oil (grapeseed, groundnut or sunflower)

100g steamed beetroot

100g dark soft brown sugar or dark Muscovado

100g self-raising flour (or 100g plain with 1 tsp baking powder)

¼ tsp baking powder

¼ tsp bicarb of soda

12g cocoa powder

½ tsp vanilla extract

100ml soured cream

¼ tsp rose extract

65g Callebaut small dark chocolate chips (50-60% cocoa solids)

 

For the cream cheese frosting

50g caster sugar

1 tbsp milk

150g cream cheese

50g unsalted butter, softened

 

Rose petals to decorate

 

METHOD

Steam beetroot - If you have none prepared, get the beetroot on to steam – top and tail (no need to peel) and steam for 40-45 mins until soft. Let go completely cold.

*************** WAIT 2 HOURS **************

Prep oven and baking tin - Preheat the oven to 160°C fan, 180°C regular. Grease and line a loaf tin in a ‘U’ shape, leaving plenty of overhang to ease removal.

Make beetfoot purée - Weigh the beetroot with the oil and brown sugar into a blender or food processer; blend to a loose purée. Transfer to a mixing bowl.

Add dry ingredients - Weigh and sieve the flour, baking powder, bicarb of soda and cocoa into the bowl. Fold these into the beetroot-oil mix. Add the vanilla, soured cream, rose extract and chocolate chips and mix gently to combine.

Fill baking tin - Pour the cake mixture into the tin, level the top and tap once to release air bubbles. It should be about half full.

Bake - Bake in the middle of the oven for 30-35 mins for a 450g tin. It is done when a skewer inserted comes out clean. Bring out the oven and leave to cool completely before frosting.

*************** WAIT 2 HOURS **************

Make frosting - Weigh the sugar and milk into a bowl; let stand for about 15 mins for the sugar to start dissolving. In a separate bowl, beat the cream cheese and butter, then add the sugar slurry a bit at a time and mix until you have a smooth frosting. Top the cake with the frosting.

 

STORAGE

This cake is very moist; stored correctly in an air-tight container in the fridge, it should keep well for about 5-7 days.

I really like this chilled, and served cold from the fridge

You can easily freeze the cake without the topping, but once topped, it is not suitable for freezing.

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Italy, Eat, Autumn Frances Lawrence Italy, Eat, Autumn Frances Lawrence

Mushroom Risotto

Recipe for an autumnal oven-baked mushroom risotto, portioned for a moderate 2 person meal, saving space for a dessert.

I like to save all my risotto eating for autumn, when it feels right. This one makes the most of another autumn flavour - mushroom - which can be further enhanced with a bit of truffle oil (shaved truffle if you’re fancy) and a non-traditional addition of a bit of mustard used as a seasoning. I add this to almost all my risotto recipes for a bit of piquancy, and it is always in the fridge, so an easy addition.

My recipe below is derived and modified from an original by Betty’s of Yorkshire.


PORTION SIZE

Makes 2 moderate portions (about 375g per person)
 

INGREDIENTS

Risotto

8-10g dried mushrooms (wild, porcini, morelles etc.)

280ml boiling water

1 shallot or small onion

1 garlic clove

140g mushrooms

30g unsalted butter

100g Arborio rice

75ml Madeira (or Marsala)

50g finely grated Parmesan

Handful fresh parsley, finely chopped

1-2 tbsp toasted pine nuts or sunflower seeds

Salt & pepper for seasoning

1 tsp Dijon (or any) mustard

 

To Garnish

A drizzle of truffle oil (optional)

Ratios

  • 50g risotto rice per person

  • 1:3 risotto rice to liquid

 

METHOD

Heat oven & hydrate the dried mushrooms. Preheat the oven to 150° Fan, 170° Regular. Soak the mushrooms in the boiling water for 15 minutes.

Prep the vegetables. While the mushrooms are soaking, finely dice the shallot/onion, the garlic and cut the mushrooms into 1cm chunks.

Sweat the veg. Melt the butter in an ovenproof pan (that has a lid, can go in the oven and will fit all your ingredients) over a moderate heat. Add the shallot/onion and cook until they are soft but not forming any colour. Add the garlic and fresh mushrooms and cook for a few more minutes.

Add dried mushrooms & rice. Drain the porcini mushrooms through a sieve, reserving the liquor. Finely dice the porcini and add to the pan. Add the rice and stir until all the grains are coated in butter. Pour in the alcohol and the mushroom liquor and stir. Season with salt & pepper. Careful! Go easy on the salt. You are adding Parmesan later, so this can end up being too salty.

Bake. Cover the pan with the lid and place in the oven for 20 minutes.

Season & finish. Remove and stir in the parsley, pine nuts, parmesan, mustard and seasoning. TASTE HERE! Add any seasoning you think it needs to suit your tastes. Drizzle over the truffle oil if using.

SERVE!

 

STORAGE & REHEATING

I find risotto does not keep – make just enough to serve and eat it all.

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